Monolith to big, what next?

jagr

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I bought a Monolith sub yesterday from the forums and it is an amazing piece of kit but I think it is too big and powerful for my room:oops:.

I had an XLS200 before which wasn't quite up to it so would a bk300 or 400 be preferable? Or any other suggestions?

Cheers

My room is 12ft x 15ft.
 
So turn it down some more?

You need to clarify a bit.
Is it physically too big or just too loud?

If you have the right Amp you could use the DRC control.

My point is it's only too loud if you have it set up to be so.
 
Well it's a cracking sub, but it seems it's too much for you.

Hard to say, as either a 300 or 400 would probably do a very good job.
They're a cut above the 200.

But you're still better to have a sub that's too big and turn it down, compared to thrashing one.

Try turning the Mono down some more.
 
Well it's a cracking sub, but it seems it's too much for you.

Hard to say, as either a 300 or 400 would probably do a very good job.
They're a cut above the 200.

But you're still better to have a sub that's too big and turn it down, compared to thrashing one.

Try turning the Mono down some more.

I will have another play tomorrow and see if I can tame it some more.
If not will look at replacing it.

It is a great sub but wondered if it's to much with my 22L's.
 
What is your music/movie balance? Do you find the mono can keep up with the music? Do deep notes start and stop where they should?
The thing is you've gone from a sealed sub to a more powerful ported one, so what you are perceiving as overpowering bass might be a bit of bass boom. Is the sub placed in a corner? Did the sub come with a bung for the port? Questions to think about. Anyway I'd suggest playing around with it for a couple of days before deciding whether to replace it.
 
What is your music/movie balance? Do you find the mono can keep up with the music? Do deep notes start and stop where they should?
The thing is you've gone from a sealed sub to a more powerful ported one, so what you are perceiving as overpowering bass might be a bit of bass boom. Is the sub placed in a corner? Did the sub come with a bung for the port? Questions to think about. Anyway I'd suggest playing around with it for a couple of days before deciding whether to replace it.

I am more 75/25 in favour of Movies.

Yes the notes start/stop where they should.

Yes the sub is placed in the corner.
I didn't get the bung for the port.

I will play around a bit more and see what I can achieve.
 
I think it's just a bit of a shock that you're experiencing.

The Mono doesn't come with a bung, but you can use anything to plug the port (old towel etc).
It might indeed help, as it'll lessen some of the impact.

And the fact that it's placed in a corner, could be causing problems.

Whereas the old advice was to place it in a corner to get more bass, you're now dealing with a serious sub, that has proper bottom end, in spades.
And corner placement could just be giving you too much.

As advised, keep playing with it.

And if it's too loud, just turn it down a touch more, until you're happy.
 
As advised, keep playing with it.

And if it's too loud, just turn it down a touch more, until you're happy.

At the moment I am using a single RCA sub connection.
Would I be better using the 'neutrik' cable?
 
I think it's just a bit of a shock that you're experiencing.

You could be right.

My history of home subs have been:

Boston Acoustics Micro90pv
MK VX100
BK XLS200

and now the Monolith
 
Have you calibrated it? I have two 18 inch subs in my room and they're not too much because they're calibrated so I think you just need to set yours up right.
 
At the moment I am using a single RCA sub connection.
Would I be better using the 'neutrik' cable?

Not really, imo.
It could be down to the crossover though.
You need to make sure it's set full up on the sub (speakers set to small).
The Quads go quite low, so you could try lower settings on the Arcam.
60 or even 50hz might work better for you.
That way, you'll be sending less bass to the sub.

Or, as we keep saying, just keep turning it down.
Don't worry, even if it's only just about on, the setting that sounds best to you, is the one to go with.
And you can relax in the knowledge that it's merely "ticking over", with loads more grunt in the bag :smashin:
 
Having spent the morning configuring the system and I think I am getting there:).

I have changed my speakers from large to small (front/centre) which did help greatly.

I am still playing with the crossover frequency. Currently it is set @100hz due to the size of my rear speakers (mk xenon 25t) and frequency range.
 
As a side note the Arcam AVR400 auto setup is way off:thumbsdow.
 
What setup system does your amp use? my onkyo uses th Audyssey system and it plays around withthe sub EQ when its setting the levels so that c oupled with the sterling performance of the mono means its blends seamlessly withthe rest fo the speakers and im a very happy chap with it.

Stick with it abit and play around more withthe setup cause once its there its an amazing sub:thumbsup:
 
Way off in what way. Distance settings will never be the same as the real world measurements.

Distance was the main problem.

The speaker levels were only a double of 'db' out but the sub was 8db out.

I ran the auto setup then measured with my sound meter (bk one).
 
What setup system does your amp use? my onkyo uses th Audyssey system and it plays around withthe sub EQ when its setting the levels so that c oupled with the sterling performance of the mono means its blends seamlessly withthe rest fo the speakers and im a very happy chap with it.

Stick with it abit and play around more withthe setup cause once its there its an amazing sub:thumbsup:

I am not sure what Arcam use for auto setup.

It keeps getting better the more I tweak.
 
Distance was the main problem.

The speaker levels were only a double of 'db' out but the sub was 8db out.

I ran the auto setup then measured with my sound meter (bk one).

The distance measurement is one way that phase issues and processing lag is accounted for. It will be off compared to real world measurements, and you shouldnt mess with that. As for the db measurements, how do you know the RS meter is more accurate than the mic that comes with the AVR, chances are its not. A greater differential in the subwoofer zone only serves to highlight increased inaccuracy of the hand held meter at sub frequencies.

I would only use a calibrated meter as a bench mark by which to compare an AVRs mic measuring. The RS spl meter is fine, but not the most accurate in the world, and I seen nothing to suggests its superior to what is supplied with mid to high end AVR's. Its a fairly accurate meter by all accounts at higher frequencies, but not very accurate in the subwoofer zone, especially when getting down to 25hz and under.
 
The distance measurement is one way that phase issues and processing lag is accounted for. It will be off compared to real world measurements, and you shouldnt mess with that.

Are you saying I should leave the distances where the amp calculates them?

Cheers
 
Don't mess with the distance setting but you can mess with the crossover frequencies. Your M&K rears should be set at 120hz and your front three try 100hz and 80z and see what you prefer.

As an alternative and unless you want to start messing around with REW you could try the BK anti-mode. I think they do a free trial or return to bass :)grin:) if you don't like it.

To understand with your sub you should be getting more mid range punch than your old sub but also when the bass frequency drops low you should "feel" the infrasonics rather than hear them.
 

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