Monolith Clicking

D

Deleted member 598831

Guest
Need some advice should it constantly click if faulty or any sort of clicking is a sign the fault is developing? reason i ask is because my mono+ clicks twice every time i put it on then there is no more clicking works as normal.
thanks
That will be the relays kicking in, soft start so it powers up without any thuds etc. Nowt to worry about.

Al the subs I have owned do it when powering up, some quieter than others.
 

Timh

Well-known Member
Mines the same [emoji3]
 

nobbyclark

Active Member
It will click when you turn it on. If it keeps clicking, usually twice every few seconds, then you have the problem that is described in this thread.
 

wrench86

Active Member
Excellent really glad to know. BTW got a reply from tom

Hello Saq



The subwoofer is meant to click about 5 seconds after switch on, this is quite normal and is only the anti-thump relay switching on. If it constantly clicks then there's a problem



Regards



Tom Pearce
 

Pugs1

Well-known Member
Looks like mine has the same problem to, on to BK now
 

Chick

Active Member
Same here :(
 

Chick

Active Member
Can't seem to get the amp panel out even with the neutrik cable... any tips on how to wiggle it out? Is there a trick to it? Looks far too easy on the video!
 

nobbyclark

Active Member
First, remove all the screws that are holding the amp onto the cab. Then, use a flat-bladed knife to **very** gently pry the amp up so that you can get your fingers under it to lift it out. Gentle is the word, as the cabinet is made of very soft materials. Also, don't try and take it all the way out immediately, as it is connected to the sub by two wires that you will need to disconnect before it can be completely removed.

You could also try to use a bradawl to lever the amp up by sticking the pointed end in one of the screw holes. That way, you will only damage wood that can't be seen anyway. But even so, gentle is still the watchword.
 

Dolus

Active Member
I had to send my Mono amp back to BK iin September and Tom sent me the link to the video and this advice.

In the video the amplifier panel comes out quite easily, there are times when the gasket tape sticks the panel in fast and you may need to wave a hairdryer over the amplifier panel for 10 to 15 minutes to heat it up.
 

Chick

Active Member
Dolus thanks for the tip - thought the same at work today - glad to see it was recommended! Only needed a few minutes though.

The capacitor identified earlier is slightly bulged - so assume this is the one to replace - no other obvious signs.

Is this the only component everyone has replaced?
 

Attachments

nobbyclark

Active Member
In my case, Yes, just that one capacitor.
 

Chick

Active Member
Nobbyclark - thanks will give it a go when the capacitor arrives.
 

Chick

Active Member
Replaced the capacitor, seems to have done the trick - LED comes on green and no clicking - will give it a test run later.
 

Razorclam

Well-known Member
Just want to say thanks for this thread. Instead of worrying about sending bits off etc, I'm on the road to a D.I.Y fix that will cost a few pounds. [emoji106]
 

scrote

Active Member
Brilliant thread to find, today my bk Gemini II was doing the same clicking from the relay, so I set about a diy fix. Firstly to get the stuck amp plate out I found it easier to take the sun out the bottom then reach in and tap the plate out with a small mallet.
Then I looked at the pub containing the power supply and saw it is the same or very similar circuit to the one in monolith, just laid out differently, and my 220uF 25V capacitor had indeed puffed, along with another the same on the underside, so i’m Fairly confident I can fix it, have just ordered the caps, went for 35V instead of 25V so they should last longer, will post up my results. Thanks to whoever posted the pics .
 

Dolus

Active Member
@scrote
Funny you should post that. My Mono's amp is at BK for a fix having suffered the same problem, I'm expecting it back any time now.

I'm jealous though, I never got a sun with mine, have to still rely on the one in the sky. :)
 

scrote

Active Member
Yeah autocorrect, anyway I replaced 3 puffed caps today and it’s perfect again, the tracks lifted when desoldered so had to just make some bridging wires. Very pleased with it.
 

kevlar

Active Member
I just repaired my Monolith with the help of this thread, thanks to all who contributed to it.
 

Timh

Well-known Member
I have the original Monolith front firing and its still going strong :)
 

bailey150

Standard Member
Thanks for the post Nobby, another Monolith now back up and running! Cost just over £2 and a pretty hassle-free fix.
 

nobbyclark

Active Member
So satisfying to get it working under your own steam. Mine still going strong too. Had to turn it down during Dracula this week. It was shaking the foundations.
 

Nuclear Jam

Standard Member
Brilliant thread to find, today my bk Gemini II was doing the same clicking from the relay, so I set about a diy fix. Firstly to get the stuck amp plate out I found it easier to take the sun out the bottom then reach in and tap the plate out with a small mallet.
Then I looked at the pub containing the power supply and saw it is the same or very similar circuit to the one in monolith, just laid out differently, and my 220uF 25V capacitor had indeed puffed, along with another the same on the underside, so i’m Fairly confident I can fix it, have just ordered the caps, went for 35V instead of 25V so they should last longer, will post up my results. Thanks to whoever posted the pics .
Thanks for the advice RE the Gemini, mine has been doing it for a while which I have worked around by not turning it off.. I had to power it down today and it took 5 or 6 minutes to come back on so caps ordered!
 

namuk

Distinguished Member
Recently fixed the power switch on monolith that i bought in 2008 but was upgraded to monolith + around 7-8 years ago, the amp plate was upgraded and a new driver but never power switch, thing is the gasket is what i needed and its unusable after you remove so i found this Monacor MDM-20 Speaker foam sealing tape, works well as its only sticky one side, worth getting if your doing your own repairs and goes along way as its wider so you can cut in half.

 

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