Monitor Audio Mass W200 blinking red led

jingaboys

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Hey all,
My monitor audio mass w200 started acting up last week and does not work anymore. The red led blinks when turned on and nothing works.
bad timing for this to go wrong with the covid lockdown and stuff, any chance if this is repairable?
 
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Known issue as there is many threads about the flashing red light here at AVF and AVSF. It could be repaired possibly, but what is the cost for such job then if you can´t do it yourself. You aren´t limited to speaker manufacturer models if you want to buy new one with warranty.

Ask around how much the repair costs before pulling plug. @dobrykamil can probably give some idea of cost.

 
The problem is with standby power supply circuit.I’ve fixed that issue dozen of times.
 
Thanks @dobrykamil, I am an electronics novice but can try to give it a shot by ordering a micrometer and soldering kit from amazon and those parts mentioned in the thread. How do I identify those in the board? Sorry if I’m asking a noob question.
 
Take a look at this thread, and first replace capacitors and check diodes marked with yellow and red colour.
 
@dobrykamil Thanks! Replaced the said diodes and capacitors and the sub is back to working!! (I learned how to solder and almost burned the board, phew)

A related question, my sub's auto-on function has not been working for a while (it stopped working suddenly) and I've been running it in always on mode ever since. Looks like it still doesn't work after the fix. Do you know if there's a simple fix of components in the board for that issue?
 
I've had Mass200/Radius 380 (same amp board) with this issue in the past, and when I hooked it to the different AC socked it the same room, both subs started to work normally.
Take you sub to another room, and connect mains cable only. Set it to Auto and switch it on. Then, set to ON and after 5-10 seconds back to Auto and let me know if the light on the top turn red after 15-20 minutes.
 
@dobrykamil Thanks! Replaced the said diodes and capacitors and the sub is back to working!! (I learned how to solder and almost burned the board, phew)

A related question, my sub's auto-on function has not been working for a while (it stopped working suddenly) and I've been running it in always on mode ever since. Looks like it still doesn't work after the fix. Do you know if there's a simple fix of components in the board for that issue?
Hi Jingaboys, I have the same sub which has developed the same symptoms. If you don’t mind could you tell me what did you replace and where did you buy them from? I’ve got plenty of time on my hands now so hoping I can fix it. 🙏 Thanks Nev
 
Hi Jingaboys, I have the same sub which has developed the same symptoms. If you don’t mind could you tell me what did you replace and where did you buy them from? I’ve got plenty of time on my hands now so hoping I can fix it. 🙏 Thanks Nev
I replaced the 3 diodes and 3 capacitors mentioned in this post: Monitor Audio W200 subwoofer MAS
The part numbers are in the post too. iirc I ordered the parts online from Cricklewood and Rapidonline websites.
Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
 
I've had Mass200/Radius 380 (same amp board) with this issue in the past, and when I hooked it to the different AC socked it the same room, both subs started to work normally.
Take you sub to another room, and connect mains cable only. Set it to Auto and switch it on. Then, set to ON and after 5-10 seconds back to Auto and let me know if the light on the top turn red after 15-20 minutes.
Thanks for your reply @dobrykamil. Tried what you suggested, and the unit has no issues going to standby from ON but it has trouble coming back to ON from standby. fwiw once it gets in that 'stuck in standby' state in the AUTO mode, I have to pull the plug out and wait for 5 seconds for the red light to turn off.
The ALWAYS ON mode works fine and I've been using that. Hopefully it doesn't draw a lot of power when not in use.
 
The problem is with standby power supply circuit.I’ve fixed that issue dozen of times.
Hi, please help.
I have same problem on my sub. Please let me know where i can buy and the part number so i can replace it.
Thanks you
 
Thanks. I seen on site www.rapidonline.com but i dont know which one to oder. Possile Can you tell me part number or picuture of resistors order please so i know exactly. My sub rasistor is burn.
 

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That resistor looks in better shape than mine is. Have you tested what resistance you’re getting across it? Should be 51ohms. I think the black blobs are just the (originally brown yellow) securing glue that has got hot. Maybe somebody else can confirm that?

In my case I replaced some capacitors and one diode to fix it. Have you checked that they’re ok?
 
The resistor is 51ohms. W7, 7w. I do not use much. Resistor is lossen not firmly. I think too hot so they burn resistor. What number part you repair and where to buy it. Thanks
 

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I’ve only ordered from rs components. I ordered a bigger resistor and it’s yet to arrive as it was out of stock. It was as follows.
WIREWOUND;RES 51 OHMS;10W; 5%;AXIAL
Stock no.:8443705

It may be that your resistor is fine and it’s not that.... I was advised previously when I had my issue to check the diodes and capacitors marked on your picture below.
 

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Hi i check my capacitor they are blow they are biger than normal. Resister is ok.
What is number part you buy 3 capacitor and 3 diodes. Please let me know so i can order it from rapidonline
Thank you in advance
 

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The problem is with standby power supply circuit.I’ve fixed that issue dozen of times.
I have the same standby problem with my radius 380, flashing light.
On the print the D4 is burned so I have to replace the 3 diodes and 3 capacitors like you already said earlier in this post. This is not a problem, however on my board the D23 (51 ohms) has also been very hot en measures 98 Ohm. Is this ok or do I have to replace this one aswell?

Thanks
 
I have the same standby problem with my radius 380, flashing light.
On the print the D4 is burned so I have to replace the 3 diodes and 3 capacitors like you already said earlier in this post. This is not a problem, however on my board the D23 (51 ohms) has also been very hot en measures 98 Ohm. Is this ok or do I have to replace this one aswell?

Thanks
Hi. Yes, you need to replace that resistor as well. Its resistance value is quite crucial, because it's a part of bootstrap circuit. If the pcb around the resistor is badly burnt, then I usually attach it to the heatsink using thermal glue.
 
Thanks for the info
However something is quite strange, the resistor measures 98 ohms and looks like a normal resistor with brown/black/brown stripes so that equals 100 ohms, is it possible they changed the setup?
6PGvzgaA.jpg
 
Hi

It seems like, somebody been here and done some dodgy work already. For me it looks like 2W one. Original resistor is 51 Ohm / 7W. See the photo in post #15.
 
I know, but this is an original subwoofer that came new from the shop
Ok. Leave the resistor as is for now, and replace the other parts. Perhaps, your base place came from different batch or something. All the mass200, radius380/390, W10 amps I've repaired in the past, have had large 51 Ohm resistor.
 

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