Mondeo Cambelt replacement

yoclick

Standard Member
Hi,

I've got my hands on a bummed out, non-runner Mondeo. It was about to go to scrap as the cambelt snapped at idle due to the tensioner breaking, but i've been given the chance of finally getting under the bonnet of a car! I've been told since it was at idle, theres a chance it may still run if the belt is changed and since i can get my hands on one belt and tensioner for cheap, why not try to fit it myself? And if it doesnt work, then i dont mind, bit of experience and its heading to scrap anyway.

Just wondering is it a difficult? There should already be timing marks as cambelt has been changed in the past. Could anyone tell me any guides i can use to help me? Is it possible to do at home with standard tools?

Im not a complete novice when it comes to the theory of car, but i've never done more than change a wheel or battery :D!

Please reply asap as i need to make a quick decision!
Thanks :thumbsup:
 

yoclick

Standard Member
My Mondeo (52 reg 1.8) has a timing chain, not a belt...

Have you checked a Haynes manual?

I THINK its around 2000/2001? where ford started using chains instead of belts. Mine is a very bummed out 1996 P reg. :eek: Although to be fair to the old girl, she still looked in good conditon and was mechanically sound untill this very odd event occured.

Regarding Haynes manual, i dont have one for the mondeo but will buy one if im sure i will do it rather than scrap. But just wanted some advice as to whether it was possibile for a person like me to do it.

get someone else to do it if it is a belt its a pain in the ***

TBH I dont care if it runs or not. I just wanted to use it as a project to learn more about cars, and if i could fix the problem, then even better. I would get someone else to do it but then that would miss the reason why im doing it.

However it doesnt sound encouraging that its a pain to do! How would a fairly big novice cope? Is it doable? I can happily set a large amount of time aside, its just my experience im unsure about and my lack of tools relevent to car work!

But then i thought why not jump right in, and if it buggers up, then you lose nothing anyway. Unless of course it entails something stupid like moving the actual engine :god. Where in that case, i definatly dont have the right tools or proper hands-on knowledge and would just scrap it.
 

yoclick

Standard Member
Here comes my n00bish knowledge :D:

I take it that is used for finding out the timings? But in my first post i state that i believe there already are timing marks so i thought i would simply align these up and just need to replace the belt and tensioner? Or have i way over simplified this?

BTW when i say timing marks, i mean acutal physical markings on the gears themselves.
 

riget

Banned
There is a timing mark on the crank, but not on the cams, if someone has changed the belt they could have marked the cams, that is how I did them.
The cams are lined up by removing the cover and fitting a steel bar in the rear of the cams, a manual would show this.
I think it is do-able for a diy job.
No timing light (gun) is needed.
 
M

Mickey G

Guest
you will need a timing gun to do it yourself for a start!!!

There's is a way to set the timming without a timing gun. Unfortunatly I don't know how to do it but I've seen my friend do it. It involves putting a screw driver in the first cylinder and feeling when it was at it's highest point. I dont know if this can be done with electronic ignitions though.

Good luck fixing the car. I just paid £350 to get an alternator replaced on my mondeo. I have done this myself on older cars but I'm too scared to try it now. Cars seem much more complicated.
 

Bilbob

Well-known Member
I just paid £350 to get an alternator replaced on my mondeo. I have done this myself on older cars but I'm too scared to try it now. Cars seem much more complicated.

Christ-onna-bike!!


What reg mondeo is it? My 2000 (older shape one) cost me the sum total fo 45 quid for a recon alt +belt... fitting was a pain, but very DIY-able...
 
excuse the long post but:

Engine - Vehicles Built Up To: 05/1998 1.6L/1.8L/2.0L - Timing Belt

you will need: Universal Flange Holding Wrench

15-030A



Alignment Plate, Camshaft

21-162B



Pliers, Spark Plug Connector

21-226




Alignment pin, crankshaft TDC setting

303-574 (21-163)

General Equipment
trolley jack
Wooden block


Materials
Name Specification
Cable ties
Silicone grease for spark plug connector seals A960-M1C171-AA

then

Slacken and remove the drive belt. Undo the center bolt for the right-hand engine roll restrictor, Undo the center bolt for the left-hand engine roll restrictor.
Lock the crankshaft. Using a screwdriver, lock the flywheel at the ring gear (hole in transmission housing).


Slacken the bolt of the crankshaft vibration damper, Set the crankshaft to TDC on cylinder no. 1. Detach the coolant pump belt pulley, CAUTION:Always remove the timing belt cover to avoid damaging the timing belt.


Remove the lower timing belt cover.
Lower the vehicle.






Remove the intake pipe.

1. Pull out the plug of the mass air flow (MAF) sensor.

2. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector.

3. Remove one bolt and two nuts.

4. Release the retaining clips.

1. Disconnect the cylinder head vent hose. Detach the coolant expansion tank and lay it to one side.
CAUTION:Insert the wooden block between the oil pan and the trolley jack.


Raise the engine using the trolley jack so that the front engine mounting is free from strain.

19. NOTE:Mark the installation position of the front engine mounting bracket. Marking points: Front engine mounting bracket and power steering pump bracket.

Remove the engine front mount bracket.
Unclip and separate the HO2S sensor multiplug
Remove the middle and upper timing belt cover.

1. Drive belt idler pulley

2. Upper timing belt cover

3. Middle timing belt cover
CAUTION:Do not pull the cable when removing the spark plug connectors. If necessary, remove the ignition cable from the ignition coil to avoid kinking the cable. Turn the spark plug connector slightly before detaching it in order to loosen the seal.

•
CAUTION:pull off the spark plug connectors in line with the spark plugs (for bent spark plug connectors use Special Tool 21-226).

•
CAUTION:The spark plugs must be removed in order to adjust the valve timing.


Remove the spark plugs and the cylinder head cover.

Disconnect the spark plug connectors.
1. Remove ten bolts.

2. Remove the spark plugs.

Discard the cylinder head cover gasket

22. Turn the engine to ignition point for cylinder no. 1 and insert the special tool into the camshaft.
Remove the timing belt.

1. Loosen the bolt of the tensioning pulley.

2. Using an Allen key, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise to slacken the timing belt.

Remove the timing belt
All vehicles

1. CAUTION:Install the retaining stud and spring if not present.


Tension the pulley against the spring pressure.

1. Install the spring retaining stud (if not present).

2. Hook the timing belt tensioner spring in place (if not present).

3. Tension the pulley against the spring by turning it clockwise with an Allen key and secure it.

2. CAUTION:Do not tighten the camshaft timing pulley bolts using Special Tool 21-162B; use Special Tool 15-030A to prevent movement.

•
NOTE:The camshaft timing pulleys must be able to turn freely on the camshafts.

Slacken the camshaft timing pulleys.

3. Unscrew and remove the blanking plug and screw the special tool all the way in.

4. CAUTION:Use a new timing belt.

•
CAUTION:Do not kink the timing belt (bend diameter must not be less than 35 mm).

•
NOTE:Turn the camshaft timing pulleys so that the timing belt engages correctly in all the timing pulleys.

•
NOTE:The tension side of the timing belt (between the crankshaft timing pulley and the camshaft timing pulley) must be taut.
Check whether the crankshaft is resting against Special Tool 303-574.

Lay the new timing belt in place.

1. Fit the timing belt, working in an counter-clockwise direction, starting from the crankshaft timing pulley.

2. Loosen the bolt of the tensioning pulley. The timing belt will be tensioned by the spring.
5. CAUTION:Do not tighten the camshaft timing pulley bolts using Special Tool 21-162B; use Special Tool 15-030A to prevent movement.

•
NOTE:The crankshaft must remain in the TDC position.


Tighten the camshaft timing pulley bolts.

Remove Special Tool 303 -574.
Remove Special Tool 21-162B.
Turn the crankshaft two turns in the clockwise direction as far as the TDC position.

6. Secure the timing belt tensioner.

Secure the timing belt tensioner pulley.

7. NOTE:If the alignment is only slightly incorrect: Adjust the camshaft using Special Tool 15-030A so that Special Tool 21-162B can be inserted for testing purposes. The crankshaft must remain at TDC.

Check the alignment of the camshafts.

Screw in Special Tool 303-574 and make sure that the crankshaft is resting against the special tool.
Insert special tool 21-162B into the camshafts.
Remove the special tools.

8. CAUTION:Do not tighten the camshaft timing pulley bolts using Special Tool 21-162B; use Special Tool 15-030A to prevent movement.

•
NOTE:The crankshaft must remain at TDC.
Adjust the alignment of the camshafts (only if Special Tool 21-162B cannot be inserted).

Slacken the camshaft timing pulley of the camshaft concerned.
Turn the camshaft with an open-ended spanner until Special Tool 21-162B can be inserted.
Tighten the bolt of the camshaft timing pulley.
Remove the special tools.
Turn the crankshaft a further two turns in the clockwise direction as far as the TDC position and check the alignment of the camshafts.

9. CAUTION:Use a blunt object (e.g. a plastic cable tie) to apply the silicone grease, to avoid damaging the spark plug connector seal.

•
CAUTION:push on the spark plug connector in line with the spark plug axis.

•
NOTE:Coat the inner side of the spark plug connector down to a depth of 5 to 10 mm with silicone grease.

NOTE:Use a new cylinder head cover gasket.
Install the spark plugs and cylinder head cover.

1. Screw in the spark plugs and tighten them.

2. Fit ten bolts.

push on the spark plug connectors.
10. NOTE:Correct seating of middle timing belt cover in lower timing belt cover.

Fit the middle and upper timing belt covers.

1. Middle timing belt cover

2. Upper timing belt cover

3. Install the multi-groove belt idler pulley.

11. NOTE:Marks must line up. Center punch in front engine support bracket.

•
NOTE:Use new self-locking nuts.


Install the engine front mount bracket.

1. Tighten the four nuts on the engine.

2. Tighten the nut on the engine mounting.

Connect and clip in the HO2S sensor multiplug.

12. Remove the trolley jack.

13. Fit the coolant expansion tank.

14. Install the intake pipe.

1. Fit the retaining clips.

2. Install a bolt and two nuts.

3. Connect the plug of the IAT sensor at the intake pipe.

4. Connect the MAF multiplug.

1. Connect the cylinder head vent hose.

15. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to: Lifting (100-02 Jacking and Lifting, Description and Operation).

Vehicles with automatic transmission

16. NOTE:The hole in the engine roll restrictor must line up with the hole in the bracket. If necessary, center as described in the steps.

Tighten the center bolt for the right-hand engine roll restrictor.

Vehicles with manual transmission
17. NOTE:The hole in the engine roll restrictor must line up with the hole in the bracket. If necessary, center as described in the steps.

Tighten the center bolt for the right-hand engine roll restrictor.
18. NOTE:The hole in the engine roll restrictor must line up with the hole in the bracket. If necessary, center as described in the steps.


Tighten the center bolt for the left-hand engine roll restrictor.


Vehicles with automatic transmission

19. Center the right-hand engine roll restrictor.

1. Detach the vibration damper.

2. Detach the vibration damper bracket.

Vehicles with automatic transmission


20. Center the right-hand engine roll restrictor (continued).

1. Undo the bolts for the engine roll restrictor bracket, center the engine roll restrictor and re-tighten the bolts for the engine roll restrictor bracket.

2. Tighten the center bolt for the engine roll restrictor.


Vehicles with automatic transmission

21. Center the right-hand engine roll restrictor (continued).

1. Attach the vibration damper bracket.

2. Attach the vibration damper.

Vehicles with manual transmission
22. Center the right-hand engine roll restrictor.

1. Undo the bolts for the engine roll restrictor bracket, center the engine roll restrictor and re-tighten the bolts for the engine roll restrictor bracket.

2. Tighten the center bolt for the engine roll restrictor.
23. Center the left-hand engine roll restrictor.

1. Undo the nuts for the engine roll restrictor bracket, center the engine roll restrictor and re-tighten the nuts for the engine roll restrictor bracket.

1. Tighten the center bolt for the engine roll restrictor.

24. NOTE:Correct seating of the lower in the middle cover.


Attach the lower timing belt cover.
25. Install the water pump pulley.

26. NOTE:Lock the crankshaft. Using a screwdriver, lock the flywheel at the ring gear (hole in transmission housing).

Fit the crankshaft vibration damper.

27. NOTE:Ensure correct seating.

Fit and tension the drive belt.

The diagram shows the drive belt routing with and without an air conditioning compressor.
28. Fit the right-hand lower wheelhouse trim panel.

29. Attach the engine undershield (nine bolts).
 

Bilbob

Well-known Member
And if none of that works, hit it with a hammer.


Hard.
 
no thatl only sort out your MAF sensor, not timing belt!

its more of a thump with a basebal bat that solves the timing belt
 
M

Mickey G

Guest
Christ-onna-bike!!


What reg mondeo is it? My 2000 (older shape one) cost me the sum total fo 45 quid for a recon alt +belt... fitting was a pain, but very DIY-able...

Mine's a 2000 as well. The alternator is new and it took the dealer 2 weeks to get the part. It's the last time I'll go to the dealer for any work to be done. They're just too expensive.

I guess I should have had a go at it myself but I just dont have the space or equipment.
 

Bilbob

Well-known Member
I guess I should have had a go at it myself but I just don't have the space or equipment.
Really not trying to rub it in, but I did mine on the road, with a cheapo socket set, a couple of spanners, and a trolley jack.
 

paulyoung666

Distinguished Member
zetec engines ( blacktop and silvertop ) used belts , the duratec ( mk3's ) use chains , and if anyone wants to tap into a fount of knowledge then head over to www.fordmondeo.org , you wont find a more useful and friendly place to get help for anything relating to mondeos :thumbsup:
 
M

Mickey G

Guest
Really not trying to rub it in, but I did mine on the road, with a cheapo socket set, a couple of spanners, and a trolley jack.

I've had 4 fords now so I have changed alternators before. Now that I can afford it I dont mind paying someone else to do it.
 

Bilbob

Well-known Member
I've had 4 fords now so I have changed alternators before. Now that I can afford it I dont mind paying someone else to do it.

Oh I completely agree with that logic... But 300 quid difference!!??!

crikey... Mine does go to spanner monkey occasionally, don't do nearly as much as I used to. But for the simpler things, I actually quite enjoy getting my hands dirty :thumbsup:
 

Member 55145

Distinguished Member
my bros n reg mondeo cambelt snapped bout 8 months ago, he had to replace the car. as long as you have another car and not in a hurry to get this one working and have plenty of money then go for it!

just remember its a 2hr ish job for a mechanic.

fortunately i was the wiser of two brothers and got mine (n reg mondeo) replaced when it was due, and i knew the other two owners of my car he didnt! i guess that taught him a lesson!
 
D

davematthew

Guest
On earlier 93-9-? models the timing marks are very clear one on each cam pulley and corresponding 'notch' in cam backplate, plate behind bottom cog and mark on the block. Very straightforward, the tensioner mounts on the left , one bolt and you turn it with an allen key to left a/clock to swivel it into tension, locking it WELL when satified all is right.

Later cars DON'T HAVE these timing marks on any of the pulleys, i found out 2 days ago when i did my 145,000 T reg model, Ford recommend a cam align-locking tool? which holds them in the correct position. But as one wasn't easily available at the Garage where i work, i used an 1/8 drill to carefully mark the original positions of cams and crank with holes in backplate and marks on top / bottom pulleys before removing original belt, for simplicity cheapness and convenience. Well worth using long tie wraps to hold belt onto top pulleys as the belt tends to move & jump off at the top at every possible opportunity when working further down.

My cam timing was spot on first attempt, but turning motor over 1-2 rpm and careful visual checking before going further is a must for success!, get it wrong by one tooth and you must start again, as either car won't start or will pop and bang!

I would think with adequate facilities light and taking your time to check everything as you go a beginner could do it in 3 1/2 -4 hours.

Not a simple job when all said and done, but costs can run to £280 with all new pulleys or up to £120-140 (incl belt)if just doing belt which would be a fair price for the time involved, so a good saving is possible if you have the basic ability-sockets e.t.c..

The right-top engine mounts removed x 3 bolts on body (one under header tank which it is best to remove) and 2 on head then the alloy mounting for it comes off with 4 bolts (one btm left hidden behind aux belt idler pulley) one 45 Torx bolt on the btm right corner behind edge water pump pulley.

The alt-powr strg-aircon belt removal makes some room and jack that end of engine up a couple of inches or so. All the pulleys on later models have a VERY brittle plastic covering idler and tensioner pulleys (like the old bakelite) , which is very easy to crack in half if clumsy or dropped on floor, and almost all recommend replacing the set £70 or more especially if high mileage is anticipated, belt alone is £25-£29, rubbish pulleys-tensioner compared to early Ford Escort-Sierra types etc for sure, in search for lower production costs and more work for Dealers maybe!..

Honest John has a good guide on the net, with a diagram, the crank pulley is often bordering on impossible to loosen and to lock, i tried a 4 ft long bar & socket acetalyene WD40 combined but only a large screwy lodged in vented part of disc (in gear) braced against ramp (or floor)finally did it (eventually), make sure to wind the spring tensioner fully anti clockwise to get correct (pretty tight) tension, is only .35-.45 inch (about 9-13 mm accross pushing from rest to one side) on the long run downwards, they always stretch a bit later on so this avoids it 'jumping' teeth later disasterously, Good news is both the most common models 1.8-2.0 l Zetecs are 'none interference' engines, meaning that they don't usually bend valves or snap cams (so if yours breaks at moderate engine revs don't scrap it until checking it out) they DO on some including 2.0 Duratech Diesels and 220 model, but please research this to confirm this yourself.
 
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H

Honeywell1945

Guest
Mine's a 2000 as well. The alternator is new and it took the dealer 2 weeks to get the part. It's the last time I'll go to the dealer for any work to be done. They're just too expensive.

I guess I should have had a go at it myself but I just dont have the space or equipment.

My old 2005 Mondeo alternator was £175 supplied & fitted by my local garage , Lucas or AC Delco , not sure of the make now .

£350 , Jeez :eek:
 
D

davematthew

Guest
£175 fitted is pretty good, a good used alt (not full re con)can be £15-£50 though without 'official' warranty, but 80+% probability be a good one like the last £15 i had for a Vectra, and if scrap guy knows your ok-honest will usually replace if dodgy (here anyway). If working outdoors in Winter weather and little tools i would prob choose to pay aswell, and i work full time as a mechanic! triples time needed sometimes and more risk of knucklerash etc. Alternator fitting on a Mondeo ain't not too bad, as all the tension on the Aux belt is on the (strong) spring loaded tensioner (pushes upwards) more or less below alternator. I Think cost of Alts starters e.t.c. is very regional, where i am they will re build-repair almost any for £70-£110 (leave it with them a few hours) tyres alts etc all seem dearer in Southern especially South EastUK reflecting higher general business housing costs i guess. Alts all use standard bits rectifiers brushes regulators the alt on mine looks like a Bosch one (think).
 
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