Momitsu V880 upgrades


Active Member
Hi All,

Found an interesting article here:

Although I don't have the "electronics" knowledge to carry out all the upgrades, if I can find a cheap 'superclock' then I would give that a bash.

But, what I could do just now was make the copper 'shield' boxing.

So here's the "How to"

As always, think about your safety first and don't carry out any work unless you are competent/confident about doing so.... good luck!

After cutting the copper sheet use a 'sharpening' stone or similar to remove burs and sharp edges these can lead to serious cuts if not 'blunted'.

You must ensure that the copper casing makes no contact onto the MB to prevent short circuit / explosions!

This casing took me 90mins to make, and I hope you'll agree that I have done a fair job of it.

1. The tools I used
2. The 0.3mm copper sheet ( 3 quid) 200 * 365mm.
3. Remove loader & disconnect cables.
4. Design box
5. Make cutting plan
6. Cut the template.
7 & 8. Start forming shapes using cold chisel and wooden blocks.
9. Using pliers to help make feet.
10. Try box for fit.
11. Insulate feet and secure cut edges with tape.
12. Install cables & site box.
13. Install loader.
14. Looking pretty

Other V880

15. Copper box
16. Superclock board & black caps'.

Still have a base plate to make - not enough copper left.

First impression is the colours are stronger - had to adjust PJ settings for the THX setup in Starwars, usually my first test disc.

Will do further testing with other discs once I have installed the base plate - will also include photos of this process.

Other 'tweaks' can be found on my thread entitled ' Momitsu V880 - 1st class service '


  • Tools.jpg
    59 KB · Views: 57
  • Copper-sheet.jpg
    39 KB · Views: 53
  • Clear-area.jpg
    48.7 KB · Views: 61
  • 3D-Sketch.jpg
    29.8 KB · Views: 42
  • Marking-out-plan.jpg
    29.1 KB · Views: 46
  • Template-2.jpg
    32.3 KB · Views: 49
  • Shape-forming-1.jpg
    30.8 KB · Views: 48
  • Shape-forming-2.jpg
    39.1 KB · Views: 48
  • Pliers.jpg
    27.1 KB · Views: 40
  • Trying-for-fit.jpg
    27.2 KB · Views: 59
  • Insulation.jpg
    39.8 KB · Views: 52
  • Front-sited.jpg
    48.6 KB · Views: 49
  • Front-sited-2.jpg
    60.8 KB · Views: 65
  • Rear-sited.jpg
    53.3 KB · Views: 76
  • Other-box.jpg
    63.5 KB · Views: 73
  • superclock-other.jpg
    72.4 KB · Views: 71
  • Base-plate.jpg
    32.6 KB · Views: 47
  • Insulated-base-plate.jpg
    33.6 KB · Views: 54


Active Member
Finished - still no time to test properly.


Active Member
... and this is what could be going in next - just got one for my CD player, if that 'rocks my socks' then will invest in it for the Momi.


  • c2_1_b.jpg
    21.5 KB · Views: 75


Active Member
I wonder if you can help, my momitsu seems to have packed up, i unplugged it to move some stuff around, when i plugged the power back in the display just flickered a bit and hsowe a couple of random zero's before going off completely, the power icon is green, but no amount of button pressing can get anything to happen, the tray wont eject, effectively its dead, was fine before the unplugging, just wondering if there is anything you may be able to suggect to help as you obviously know this machine well.
Otherwise it could be the dustbin for this and a new player!!!


Active Member
It actually sounds like it's locked into the 'setup' mode as this also has no display and no amount of button pressing changes anything.

1st. I'll assume that you have it plugged into a display and when you power up you get no main screen image, this would suggest that the power lead going into the video board has popped out. The power board is separate so you would still get the green light showing as it comes off that board and the player takes all commands from the video board hence no joy with your RC.

If your confident about removing the players cover (while its unplugged) then check over it's connections. If everything checks out fine it could be something more terminal like a crack on the video board (hope not), you can get a replacement for 65 quid if you like the player and want to keep it.
If your not confident try a local repair centre and see if they will do a free examination for you, if it is just a wire I would hope that they would plug it back in and send you on your way a happy chappy.

I'll post a pic to help you identify the cable.

2nd. You get the main screen image -the blue DVD logo but nothing else, try pressing setup on the remote to see if it jump to that menu, if it does you should then be able to input screen resolution,screen type ect. If no joy, then what I would recommend is to see if it will go into its firmware update mode. Have you ever done this? If so try and install the last firmware for the player (1.12) - at the end of this I would then hope it would unblock its hang-up.
If you have never updated it's firmware before let me know and I will deal with that in a separate post, and after that you'll be in for a shock as to how good it has become. I put the 1.04 firmware back into my player and was 'shocked' as to how bad the PQ was.

If when all said and done and player is still dead then I know someone in the UK who would be interested in its corpse - let me know before binning it...

Good luck:)

Hope that helps you out


  • Cables-V880.jpg
    92 KB · Views: 84


Active Member
Thanks for the reply, i get no image on the screen nothing at all, i'll try andlook under the cover this weekend to see if i can see anything broken, if i cannot get it working then i'll let you know before sending it to the dustbin



Active Member
"This week I will be mostly lining it with bitumen sheets"

Done it to my CDP and works a treat - very cheap to do!:thumbsup:


Active Member
Finished the next stage of modding this player, all I can say is "Wow" & "Do it, no really do it!" cost 4 quid and gives back so much I can't even quantify it! Gob smacked.

It's just become a whole new player altogether and it is now earmarked for superclocking.

As mentioned before I am now watching the player in RGBHV wide 720 and the PQ is stunning it now resembles the DVI-D image I used to get before I started down this path. Will view the digital picture tomorrow. The biggest improvement though has been the audio the soundtrack is now totally involving with even the smallest of background noises being well presented - I am truly inside the movie , sheer bliss:thumbsup:

So here are the photos:

1. Starting to fit the bitumen tape into chassis (75mm wide * 1mm thick).
2. Removing pins as I go along to make fitting easier.
3. Cut out the air vents ( Don't forget this one).
4. Both casings done.
5. Even the loader got done - just make sure you don't foul anything that needs to move!
6. Everything back in place.
I also took the feet off and filled them up with putty but blu-tak or plasticine would also do.
Time to visit my local hire shop again - Fantastic4 has just been released.

Until the next mod - happy viewing.


  • Strips.jpg
    108.8 KB · Views: 53
  • Posts.jpg
    99.4 KB · Views: 61
  • Cut Vents.jpg
    Cut Vents.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 56
  • Casings.jpg
    109.4 KB · Views: 50
  • Close up loader.jpg
    Close up loader.jpg
    108.2 KB · Views: 59
  • Re-assemble.jpg
    106.8 KB · Views: 63


Distinguished Member
Is that a Superclock 2? I reckon that's going to be great.

I'd be very interested to hear how you get on with that.

A power supply regulator upgrade might be a very worthwhile mod, too.


PS: I just remembered - it was me that originally suggested the anti-microphony measures in that AVS thread!


Active Member
Yip, It's a superclock2. Hopefully the one for my CDP will arrive today along with the 2 12v and 1 5v super regulators, if all goes well then will order one up for the DVD player - might be in Tokyo this weekend so going to price some Black Gate caps as well.

The 'deadening' is a 'gem' of a mod - makes perfect sense when you consider that high end gear is built like a tank for a reason and not just for 'looks'. My other amp is getting the treatment today, wonder what that will produce!

Keep the suggestions coming - especially when they are that good:thumbsup:


Distinguished Member
I'm starting to think that microphony is important for EVERYTHING. I have a Sony amp that has translucent speaker binding posts to avoid using highly resonant pigments that colour the sound.

My newly formed theory is that vibration modulates the conduction path at every electrical connection. Where one conductor meets another, the electrical impedance is a function of the contact force due to resistance change or diode effects (corrosion or contamination).

That would be difficult to prove one way or the other, but it fits in with lots of things I have heard. Connection impedance is probably only a few milli-ohms, but if the audio or video signals are very small, like in a source or pre-amp, small corruptions may make a significant difference.

I have a Pio DV757Ai universal player, and was planning to do some of the same mods that you have done, so I'm keen to hear how you get on.

All the best, Nick


Active Member
welwynnick said:
My newly formed theory is that vibration modulates the conduction path at every electrical connection. Where one conductor meets another, the electrical impedance is a function of the contact force due to resistance change or diode effects (corrosion or contamination).

Gold contacts are essential in this climate - standard coatings corrode within a few years if left uncovered. When I first arrived here my wifes TV terminals were grey, a quick clean with some autosol brought them back up and when I plugged everything back in the PQ was far brighter and richer. I now regularly clean all terminals twice a year, It's one of those things when something deteriorates slowly over time you are unaware of the change so I just don't let it happen.
Think your theory is on the right path as I placed the tape across the back panel and cut out the holes for the phonos ect. so that they are now cushioned against the casing, I also isolated everything inside - I think the combination of this has produced the big result.
When the warranty runs out on the Panasonic HDD it will be getting attacked, thankfully the HDD goes to sleep after 20 mins of non-use (stopping one vibration) however it has two fans on the back - one runs nearly constantly even in standby! Even though they are whisper quite if you put your hand on the top casing you get a gentle massage from the vibes. The PQ on it is very good with the 'Diga' engine but the background is always grainy and now that I have seen that disappear in the Momitsu I really want to get into the guts of it. However, my previous Pioneer HDD developed a HDD problem 11 months into it's warranty period and I ended up getting the latest model as an exchange (to many earthquakes when its powered up I reckon) so experience tells me to sit on my hands and wait!!

Still no sign of my superclock yet - reckon their trying to diffuse it at Narita airport!:rotfl: :rotfl:

BTW. Done my DSP-A5 today but haven't had time to sit down and audition it yet, an acoustic guitar on the TV sounded nice though.


Active Member
Todays project was replacing all but 3 capacitors on the power supply unit/board.
Unfortunately I couldn't source the 3 missing ones - but still hope to do in the future.

The photos are;
1. original set up.
2. Size difference between each cap'
3. "
4. "
5. PCB markings
6. Heat sink & red marker
7. Silicone cushion & dampening
8. Completed
9. Wired back in

1st. Power off & lid off.
2nd. Unplug 3 connectors on PSU
3rd. Unscrew two fixings and clamp plastic fixtures with pliers to 'pop' off.
4th. Mark all the pins to be de-soldered.
5th. De-solder each cap (one at a time) and try new one for fit. Ensuring positve leg goes in the right pin hole (the + leg is longer the stripe on the capacitor body indictes the ground leg (photo 3)).
6th. Place a 'blob' of silicone on board and fit new cap'. Then solder using a heat-sink.
7th. 'Snip' remaining tails off.

After finishing I had a cup of coffee then I went and plugged it back in - no 'bang',no smoke = happy chappy!

The RGBHV image:
The difference is apparent, I instantly thought that the colours were more neutral/natural - no emphasis from one particular colour, flesh tones are fantastic.:smashin:
The slight 'halo' that can happen around objects has gone giving the picture a greater depth of field.:eek:
Background detailing has become more refined making 'action' happening out with the central area more involving. Smaller effects are more noticeable eg. Star Wars I, when Anakin is inside the federation control ship and is just about to destroy the generators he activates a shield. This used to be a blurry wave forming around the ship it now has colour and 3d rendering giving the true impression of a 'shell' being formed- very nice! It's these types of small details that I am noticing and they have just helped lift the image up a good few notches!!:smashin:
I had already gained a significant increase within the soundstage so wasn't expecting much there - wrong! Again it's the smaller sounds which have added to the bigger effect eg. Star Wars II, fight scene with Obi, Ani & count Dooku - they are definitely inside a cavern with echoes all around me, the swishing of the lightsabres is making me want to duck for cover!:eek:

Will sit and view DVI tomorrow.

The cost for this mod: 4quid, time about 1hr from start to finish.

What's next - I'm spraying the cover Gold right now, seeing how it's now a Special Edition!!:rotfl: But also fit in nicely with all my other components.:cool:


  • PCB-Original.jpg
    55.6 KB · Views: 51
  • Cap5047.jpg
    19.5 KB · Views: 40
  • Cap16100.jpg
    16.6 KB · Views: 39
  • Cap16470.jpg
    56.7 KB · Views: 38
  • PCB-markings.jpg
    48.6 KB · Views: 44
  • Heatsink&markings.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 46
  • Finished-close-up.jpg
    55.9 KB · Views: 46
  • NewCaps-1.jpg
    62.1 KB · Views: 41
  • Wired-back-up.jpg
    97.6 KB · Views: 51


Active Member
So here's how it looks. Think I'll do the feet in black or copper!


  • Front-1.jpg
    34.9 KB · Views: 61
  • Rear-2.jpg
    31.1 KB · Views: 48
  • Rack-2.jpg
    69.9 KB · Views: 55


Active Member
Now moving onto next project,

Have just sourced a 'superclock & power supply unit' for under 115 quid (This includes delivery quoted too the UK).

The supplier will also fit the modules at very low cost and carry out other 'mods'. If you don't want to send the complete player (saving on postal charges) he can also do the work if you just supply the motherboard - but probably can't do any testing/fine tuning.

These units can also be installed in any DVD or CD player you just need to know the frequency of the players clock (the Momitsu is 27MHz )and of course have some knowledge about what to do with them. I have supplied photos of the motherboard and he is going to tell me which parts to de-solder and where to hook up the new wires.

All info can be found here...

All going to plan I should have this done by the start of next month, looking extremely forward to doing it.:)


  • clock-layout.jpg
    42.5 KB · Views: 45


Distinguished Member
There's no stopping you with all these mods, is there, Drew2?

Good luck with this one, and I look forwards to hearing how you get on.

Do you plan to do any vibration damping as well?

Cheers, Nick


Active Member
There's no stopping you with all these mods, is there, Drew2?

Good luck with this one, and I look forwards to hearing how you get on.

Do you plan to do any vibration damping as well?

That's what happens when you sit about most days - I just keep looking for things too 'destroy':rotfl: .

From the website pic I imagine that this one will go smoothly as well, and I will be armed with my silicone gun:devil: .

The 'good news' is, because the wife heard such a big difference in the CD player she's agreed that doing this is worthwhile - Yahoo!!:thumbsup:

Just about to order up some more caps but the Blackgate NX's are out, way too expensive! Need to settle for 'Fs' if I can get them all or go for the Nichicons again. (for Video board)


Active Member
Until I get a result on the superclock, I added the following parts today - will be viewing Mr & Mrs Smith and Fantastic 4 tonight.


  • Heatsink-SD-3.jpg
    37.1 KB · Views: 40
  • Loader-power-cable-2.jpg
    19.8 KB · Views: 44


Active Member
Haven't viewed the Momitsu in well over a month - I actually forgot how good it was !! (Watching lots of terrestrial digital HD).

Fantastic 4 to DVD is "Fantastic" absolutely no artifacts - picture perfect. So refreshing after watching a few bad transfers to DVD.

Mr & Mrs was also very 'clean' looking just a shame the story wasn't better - if it hadn't been for the actors used I think that would of been a "straight to video" movie :rotfl: :rotfl:

Both DTS movies so that was a bonus!:smashin:

Viewed a Toshiba HD DVD player yesterday - admittedly the shop wasn't doing it no favours as it was an extremely 'noisy' image, but you could see the difference between the SD image on the other display. However it is still no where near as nice as the NHK HD broadcasts here and to me it doesn't even excel above 'upscaling' DVD players, slightly more contrast but if I turned the contrast up on my PJ I would get much the same effect - everybody seems to be 'grabbed' by this exaggerated/enhanced look but personally I don't like it!:thumbsdow

Think I'll be investing in a 1080p PJ before a HD player...:smashin:


Active Member
If anyone is interested in doing this upgrade then here are the components to remove.:)

The clock output is soldered into the original clocks left hole, the ground is soldered onto the - chassis point beside the original crystal.:smashin:

Remove two smd cap's and one resistor and your done.:clap:

Power can be obtained from the PSU or Video board but you should really invest in a PSU for the new superclock to get the full benefit.:cool:


  • Confirmation-2.jpg
    33.8 KB · Views: 39
  • PSU+5v.jpg
    49 KB · Views: 41
  • Videoboard+5v.jpg
    53.5 KB · Views: 36


Active Member
Should I start new thread for this one ? Only time will tell!!

Have ordered up the clock & PSU and hopefully they will arrive in the next week or so. Once here, of course it will only take an hour to install!

I plan to take some test shots of SD and upscaled 720p/1080i as is then the same again after installation then again after, say 50 hrs.

I hope that this will then demonstrate the full effect of this mod.

Now, some will say " seeing is believing " but I hope to set up my camera in exact same circumstances each time and also post full (cut) scenes but obviously at 800*600 res. I done it for HD v Upscaling and people noticed the difference so I am sure that this will also work!!

Stay tuned - and be amazed!! (I hope).

PS. Also hope to fit an IEC fitting making power lead selection wider.


Active Member
New thread started:rolleyes:

The latest video from AVForums

Star Wars Andor, Woman King, more Star Trek 4K, Rings of Power & the latest TV, movies & 4K releases
Subscribe to our YouTube channel

Latest News

Google set to launch the Pixel 7 and Pixel 7 Pro smartphones
  • By Ian Collen
  • Published
Focal launches Bathys noise-cancelling wireless headphones
  • By Ian Collen
  • Published
Formovie Theater UST projector hits the UK
  • By Ian Collen
  • Published
Sonus faber unveils new flagship Arena speaker series
  • By Ian Collen
  • Published
Sharp showcases its upcoming 4K TV and audio line-up
  • By Ian Collen
  • Published

Full fat HDMI teeshirts

Support AVForums with Patreon

Top Bottom