Messed up my build!

jermaindefoe

Standard Member
I have created two holes on the wall to chase the cables in. The two holes are cut neatly but i have made a stupid error.

I have cut the holes too wide, this means, although my av cable plate covers the gaps in terms of width, the screws have nothing to tie in to.

I was wondering if anyone new of sme av plates that were a little wider than a normal double socket just so i can get the screws to fix to the wall.

My girlfriends dad is a builder and he warned me to not to make them too big and he is coming to do the wallpapering next week so I know I will never live it down unless I can fix it :D

This is the one i currently have at the moment
http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electric...Labgear-Dual-Brushed-White-Faceplate-12389271
If the screws were at the top/bottom instead of the sides there would be no issue
AVForums please help me :D :lease:
 
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jermaindefoe

Standard Member
Are you saying the back box wont fit? Are you using plasterboard plastic backboxes?
the face plate screws directly in to plasterboard. the plate i have covers the gap i cut out, but, because i cut the gap too big i cant fix the screws to anything (i could use longer screws and go in to the blockwork behind) but i dont particuarly like this idea and when he wallpapers he will see :D
 
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John7

Well-known Member
Heres a quick fix using a couple of small pieces of MDF or Plywood

It's a rough drawing but all I have time for at the moment (top down view)
 

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AV Happy

Well-known Member
Try this, i think it will be the easiest way to reduce the hole size, Use the piece of plaster board you cut out to fill back in the hole, but support it from the back.
glue it all in place then a bit of filler over the joint and you will never know
 

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lenaldo

Novice Member
Cut some plaster board just small enough to fit into the space you have cut out and drill a screw into it so you can hold it in place. Get some strong adhesive - something suitable to stick plaster board together and put this on the front face of the plaster board.

Insert this into the hole and rotate it so that it sticks to the back of the original plaster board wall and using the screw (or screws) pull it back to allow the adhesive to flatten out against the back of the wall.

Repeat on the other side and leave to dry.

Once this is done and solid, cut a piece of plasterboard the size of the hole, remove the screws and put adhesive on your new plaster board cut out. This will then be stuck to the parts you've just put in.

Once dry, use a lightweight filler to go around the edged of the cut out and sand once dry.

Job jobbed!

Edited to note - just a more wordy version of the above!
 

jermaindefoe

Standard Member
the best fix would be to find a slightly wider plate because there would be no need for chopping and stcking things but i cant find any for the life of me. is it likely i wont find any?
 

S D I

Banned
You have a pocket around 150mm x 75mm, maybe 40mm deep at the moment I presume.
Make it 25mm bigger all round so it is around 180 x 100m, 40mm deep.
Cut a rebate all round the pocket 15mm deep, 30mm wide using an angle grinder
then chisel out neatly.
Cut a piece of 12.5mm plasterboard 260mm x 160mm that fits in the rebate finishing around 3mm back from the face of the existing wall.
Record the coordinates of the rectangular 180 x 100 pocket then board over it.
Get your girlfriends Dad to plaster over it then after it is painted neatly cut a rectangle out the size of a dry wall back box.
 

Nexus04

Active Member
Just re read the original post and am I right in thinking you were going to screw the faceplates directly to the Plasterboard? if the gap is only a little too big you still may get away with putting a drylining back box(some places may call them a fast fix box) in as they have "wings" that slide forward to the board and hold them in place then screw the faceplate in to the back box
 

enigmatic

Banned
Just re read the original post and am I right in thinking you were going to screw the faceplates directly to the Plasterboard? if the gap is only a little too big you still may get away with putting a drylining back box(some places may call them a fast fix box) in as they have "wings" that slide forward to the board and hold them in place then screw the faceplate in to the back box

this - when you tighten the screws the lugs expand and grip to the plasterboard side.
 

jermaindefoe

Standard Member
Just re read the original post and am I right in thinking you were going to screw the faceplates directly to the Plasterboard? if the gap is only a little too big you still may get away with putting a drylining back box(some places may call them a fast fix box) in as they have "wings" that slide forward to the board and hold them in place then screw the faceplate in to the back box
yes it is only a little out, maybe 10/15 mill or so though i wont be able to feed the cables through then will i?
 

bryanchicken

Novice Member
yes it is only a little out, maybe 10/15 mill or so though i wont be able to feed the cables through then will i?
The back boxes have holes you can punch out. If those holes (which i usually meant for 2.5" twin and earth or similar) are too small its a fairly trivial job to join 2 of the holes together to make a bigger one. I used just a pair of pliers.
 

tonycooling

Novice Member
I think a couple of photo's are required.....but from the sound of it, you need to get a plasterboard back box (about 50 pence) and screw into the backbox
 

jermaindefoe

Standard Member
I think a couple of photo's are required.....but from the sound of it, you need to get a plasterboard back box (about 50 pence) and screw into the backbox
Ok so what i did in the end was not pretty but easy and dirty :D

i bought some longer screws to fit the faceplates, drilled in to the wall behind, put in some raw plugs and fixed the screws to those. not the best solution mind you but could have been a lot worse.

the original problem still stands, when the gf's dad unscrews them to wallpaper he will see the mess i made :D

Here are some pics


 

MassiveJim

Active Member
Just FYI.
It is not normal practice to screw a faceplate directly to plasterboard, I certainly wouldn't be happy with this arrangement.
Faceplates are designed to be screwed to back boxes, back boxes are designed to be screwed to the wall and have the punch outs mentioned to allow cable to feed through them.

When a new house is built obviously the wiring goes in first (including backboxes) then the plasterers come along and cutout the holes for the backboxes to fit around them. the faceplate is designed to be larger than the backbox so that the overhang covers up the gap.

I am at work and can't see those pictures to see what you did btw
 

lenaldo

Novice Member
I'm still wondering why you would want to fix directly to the plasterboard :confused:

Say the hole had been the right size - was your intention to carry out the wallpapering and then fix the backplate to the decorated wall?

As soon as you put any pulling pressure on the plate to remove cables, it's going to pull the fixings straight out of the plasterboard.

As stated, for coppers you could have a back box and do the job properly. Seems like false economy to me.

Incidentally, if your FIL is a builder and sees an open hole for cabling, he WILL most likely ask where your back box is, you do realise that don't you?
 

jermaindefoe

Standard Member
ok well he did notice, took the mick a little and left it at that... :$

im confident the plates will withhold some pressure, i got a good fix using raw plugs to the second layer of plasterboard even though this isnt ideal

its not looking to bad now . Need to change some furniture and curtains etc but im not too displeased. Looks odd being off center but the room is L shaped which you cant see from here
 

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