Marquee 95xx Owners Thread

That 03vim is past saving, first its potted to deadth, 2nd its the old 3 chip miniboard, they never really worked well, the black level and noise was a pita.

The 3 standard neckboards you have, or all your standard neckboards, with cl449, try get the brown resistors mounted on all those, look if any of them have signs of overheating on the PCB specially where the big resistors is mounted, resolder the resistors on all of them.
Preferable change the old electrolytics before testing.
 
Yeah the vim looks nasty :( Thanks for the tips. So I'm better off with a stock one. I have 2 and noticed that one of them has some weird mods! Any idea what these are for?
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Also is there any way to increase the bandwidth with this chain? I'd still love to resolve 1080p 72hz decently.

Cheers!
 
If you have a bit of patience i think Gabor will come up with a vim mod this year, that will go nicely on a 02 vim. There is not really any way to up the standard vim, you can skip some stages, but its not really worth the trouble.

I dont imagine that mod on the 02 vim you have there do anything meaningfull.
 
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Damn. Everything back to stock now and so many weird issues just got fixed! Contrast modulation works now and I can also do the blue flare which I could never do before (the bright centers were gone).
I'm also really waiting for possible Gabor's mods!

Stridsvognen, what kind of video chain do you have, if you dont mind asking. Also do you have any tips for perfecting the focus/astig setup? I could never get both rasters centered AND have a focus that wouldn't move when ramping from 0 to 100.

Thanks, this fresh info is so valuable!
 
The mods we run are simple and proven with calibration data to back them up. More is not better.
 
when you do flare magnets on blue and red you might like to go in and set the drive up, like in the 3200K so thats a flare setup profile.
When i set flares i put sungleses and look into the lens and set it as good as i get it while adjusting focus up and down, its a balance, and you will most likely never get it to stay still while adjusting focus, more important is the dot is round and spot centered both over and underfocused, but i never run 0-100, if mu optimum focus is 50 i might go from 20-80 max, and then step back to the screen look true the lens and confirm its looking good, and from 2m back you have super magnification on the spot ur looking. preferable have 2-4 pole flare magnets, the 6 pole flare is often making it more confusing to adjust, and rarely any improvement.

I never used the contrast modulation, always pull that board out, ill try put one in my projector, doubt it works with my boards as well.

I have a ADG1233 switcher chip on one of MPs miniboards, but changed most of the stuff around it to make it work properly, and hope Gabor gets a different switcher add on board up running, as his aproach is much much more professional and clean.

My neckboards are standard old style electrohome neckboards, where the ferite is removed, and the input peaking removed, and gain changed so u run your contrast around max instead wich makes it go brighter and a more linear bandwidth response from 0-100% IRE. And the fun part is that it then performs significantly better than any moddet neckboard i ever seen. You just need to test that the neckboard performs properly , wich is not always the case, so at times i trashed around 40% of the neckboards as they were not worth spending time on, mostly those with heat damadges, or later specifically 2004 and forward build neckboards.
 
Wow that's a lot of information! I like your approach on cpc magnets. I have the 6 pole ones, guess I have to get used to them. About the neckboards, are the input peaking, ferrite removal and gain modifications custom stuff you've done? If so, I'd really appreciate if you could go little more in depth how that's accomplished, I'm intrigued! I'm now taking only the resistors from MP's neckboards and replacing the carbon comps in original boards. I don't see anything else worth saving there.

Also Greg, gotta agree on that. Your shots speak for it too.
 
dont touch the original G2 line resistors, thats one of the MP pitfalls, leave the original ones in place please. There is nothing you need from the MP boards, nothing at all.
 
Just got 2 more projectors up on the wall, will get the last 2 up soon.
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Yes its foam from a 2011 build machine, so most likely some of the last ones.
I do have a white Vidikron Vision One case ill like to paint black and put on.
 
White Vidikron vision? Never seen one, sounds damn nice actually. I'm positive I have one of the wackiest Marquees out there lol
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Greg, is that a raw picture from a BD player (no sharpening on player's side or anything)? Looks good.
 
I use no enhancement
 
Had a very interesting day calibrating and profiling yesterday.
Thanks to Didrik for comming down from Norway to play, it was a very productive and educational day in the overheated HT.

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Was really fun and interesting to share experience and meet.
Hope you take a trip to Norway also sometime soon.
Your Marquee was really good. I do not swap it for the NX9 hehe:), but this is a really good CRT setup. Clean, sharp, not proceeded just pure, and correctly calibrated, that does much on a CRT.
Realy liked it. And black as always on a correct out of black CRT stunning.
I will think not many have this good CRT set up in their home. A Marquee just like that will be accepted for shore in my cinema if I had the room for it, so just let me know if you suddenly want to donate Kurt lol :)
 
Well now you know what the power of native contrast, and a native color gamut tracking do for the image, with a little trickery, and a lot of fiddeling.

Maybe ull like to post some of the measurements and share your thoughts of whyit measured as it did, and what could be improved.
 
Yes, I can do that. At least my thoughts. Need to be some later this weekend. :)
 
Yes, I can do that. At least my thoughts. Need to be some later this weekend. :)
Sounds like you both had a lot of fun with crt and digital also sharing calibration ideas. Look forward to the numbers. Bet you had fun with your test clips.
 
Sounds like you both had a lot of fun with crt and digital also sharing calibration ideas. Look forward to the numbers. Bet you had fun with your test clips.
We had for shore .

Also the marquee had a benefit of a profile and calibration. Yes less light than a digital but that is what you like. I prefer around 14-16fl

But 12-13 on the marquee was also very comfy.

Her some pictures of how the marquee responded without calibration.
Colored c elements on red and green like Kurt had helps to give the little extra on CRT.

These measurement apply like I have seen it with colored C elements.
Also gamma not touched.
So have to say calibration is needed to get out the potential.
 

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Here some after calibration.
A crt jumps more up and down and will have variations if you take a new measurement.
Even if you let the fosfor stabilize before measurement.
So the differens in the 100% variable from referanse to seen. This is the same with all the places that jump off.
Also a measurement on the 0-5% that track, like I like it. Make dynamic in the dark end.

Colors also track fine in the color checker.
In the gamma greyscale you see after correction how the CRT change then after drift.
Digital hold this better today.
Also think that Kurt liked the calibration on the marquee. Also with the 1-5 ire tracking great.
 

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To get the CRT good you need a Lumagen or a video processor that you can fine adjust gamma and colors. Also like a computer with mad VR or else you will struggle with accuracy.

Yes you will then not get a totally analog video chain. But it’s worth it.
With a correct gamma and colors you will bring out more debt and details. And also a more correct totally image. That was clearly visible on the marquee.

I personally would prefer 2.4 max on a CRT. Because you get so much more details and shadow details in the dark end.
But that is preferred form person to person.
And need to be looked at over time. To understand or find what you like best.
 
Ill take a hammer and beat the blue tube, see if it gets stable, as its way more unstable than a good tube, its brand new but have some sort of short/ polution in the gun, so it basically never gets stable, also why we never got the 100% ire spot on.
So hope next time we can get a more normal crt stability, i have a few other new blue tubes, but like to see if this one will burn clean after some hours, also all tubes are new so the phosphor is a bit more sensitive, that will change after some hundred hours.

Now that we profiled the I1Display Pro to the JETI, ill be able to test and retake the measurements when i get the blue tube sorted out.

Tool prepared.
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