when you do flare magnets on blue and red you might like to go in and set the drive up, like in the 3200K so thats a flare setup profile.
When i set flares i put sungleses and look into the lens and set it as good as i get it while adjusting focus up and down, its a balance, and you will most likely never get it to stay still while adjusting focus, more important is the dot is round and spot centered both over and underfocused, but i never run 0-100, if mu optimum focus is 50 i might go from 20-80 max, and then step back to the screen look true the lens and confirm its looking good, and from 2m back you have super magnification on the spot ur looking. preferable have 2-4 pole flare magnets, the 6 pole flare is often making it more confusing to adjust, and rarely any improvement.
I never used the contrast modulation, always pull that board out, ill try put one in my projector, doubt it works with my boards as well.
I have a ADG1233 switcher chip on one of MPs miniboards, but changed most of the stuff around it to make it work properly, and hope Gabor gets a different switcher add on board up running, as his aproach is much much more professional and clean.
My neckboards are standard old style electrohome neckboards, where the ferite is removed, and the input peaking removed, and gain changed so u run your contrast around max instead wich makes it go brighter and a more linear bandwidth response from 0-100% IRE. And the fun part is that it then performs significantly better than any moddet neckboard i ever seen. You just need to test that the neckboard performs properly , wich is not always the case, so at times i trashed around 40% of the neckboards as they were not worth spending time on, mostly those with heat damadges, or later specifically 2004 and forward build neckboards.