Lyngdorf discussion

Thx @orange55 for your interesting input !
Problem is I use my ISP box for a routeur and I didn't fin any IGMP settings :(
 
I had this exactly this problem with my MP-50 and found the problem. Lyngdorf were not interested.

It relates to ‘igmp snooping’ which for some reason causes the MP-50 to drop off the network, well not be seen should I say. As it still appears for airplay and web browser.

In my quest to find the problem I tested 6 routers, across four brands and can now easily recreate it by switching IGMP snooping on. With it disabled the MP-50 works normally.

However, not all routers and switches are equal. For example the two dlink and two netgear routers I tried you could not fully disable IGMP snooping and therefore didn’t work with the MP-50. By chance the crappy sky router works fine. I now use a Draytek which works. But also non-managed switches from dlink also have some kind of Smart IGMP snooping which cannot be defeated, so they also stop the mp-50 working.

It’s not related to the synology NAS, it is the mp-50. that is also why bubble isn’t working correctly. I use mconnect on iOS and that had the same problem you describe. Now it works perfectly.


Finally i highly recommend Minimserver and streamer as it sounds better than roon or any of the other media servers on synology.

I invested quite a bit of time in getting to the root cause of the issue, so do feel free to message me directly if you need further help to make.

Interesting find for sure! I just received my MP-40 and set it up yesterday but waiting for some XLR adapters so it‘s in a temporary state currently. I will do some more testing on the “igmp snooping“ issue as I have it enabled in my network config using Ubiquiti infrastructure. No issues so far but only tried it briefly with the Synology DLNA Media server. Connecting via iOS app and web was solid. I plan on trying Roon and Minimserver which was also recommended by the Linn users a while back.

Just a note, the MP-40 is a pleasure to work with, simple, intuitive and everything just seems to work as intended. This is just preliminary and I cannot comment on sound quality or RP yet as I just have HDMI audio pass through with a JBL soundbar as a temp solution until the adapters arrive...the waiting is the hardest part ;-)
 
I have absolutely no problems using the Lyngdorf MP-60 Audio Streamer in combination with the Synology DS218+ everything runs smoothly without any hitch or anything like that...
And the sound is so nice compared to my previous processor themMarantz AV8805 this is a big step forward

‘I am so happy with the MP60 one of my best upgrades in years...’ 🥰
 
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Yes I also come from a 8805 and the difference is really important (even though the 8805 is doing a good job), thx to the RoomPerfect experience which is really unique and so plug&play.
I am now thinking of replacing a Yamaha C-XA5100 for a Lyngdorf TDAI-3400 for my living room (only a 2 channel setup) just to enjoy the Room Perfect in my living room. ;) but I need to save up a little.
Lyngdorf is not cheap !

A couple of friends (one owns a 8805 also) came to listen to the MP-50 setup at my house and they were stunned. Only problem is I found out afterwards I forgot to hit the "save" button at one moment because the distances were all at 0 ... :D

I redid a RP at 100% being careful the distances were correct this time !
Result is stunning for music, waiting to get my VP back from support before I can enjoy movie sound !
 
Speaker placement help please:
Dear All,
I have a pair of Proac D100 (-PROAC RESPONSE D100 SPEAKERS (PAIR)). I am bi-amping it with Legacy Audio's PowerBloc4 (Powerbloc4 | Legacy Audio - Building the World's Finest Audio Systems). I've had my Lyngdorf MP50 for 1.5 years now.

I've experimented with speaker placement of the Proac with Lyngdorf. The Proac's woofer "port" actually is at the bottom, as shown in

1) I tried different timing distance when configuring bi-amp in mp50, and realized setting mid-high and low to be of the same distance to yield better results than with different distance.
2) Room Perfect says it's best to put the speaker with no rear port against the wall, I've tried this, but this way, the sound image sounds "shallow", even though center focus is good. I tried to move the speaker away from the back wall to my normal speaker placement location, and the image depth came back.

Can anyone comment on such a scenario, and provide advice? Thank you so much in advance.
 
Speaker placement help please:
Dear All,
I have a pair of Proac D100 (-PROAC RESPONSE D100 SPEAKERS (PAIR)). I am bi-amping it with Legacy Audio's PowerBloc4 (Powerbloc4 | Legacy Audio - Building the World's Finest Audio Systems). I've had my Lyngdorf MP50 for 1.5 years now.

I've experimented with speaker placement of the Proac with Lyngdorf. The Proac's woofer "port" actually is at the bottom, as shown in

1) I tried different timing distance when configuring bi-amp in mp50, and realized setting mid-high and low to be of the same distance to yield better results than with different distance.
2) Room Perfect says it's best to put the speaker with no rear port against the wall, I've tried this, but this way, the sound image sounds "shallow", even though center focus is good. I tried to move the speaker away from the back wall to my normal speaker placement location, and the image depth came back.

Can anyone comment on such a scenario, and provide advice? Thank you so much in advance.

Not sure how much of an advice this is but in my case I have my front speakers (Paradigm Persona 9H, very full range speakers) about 3m from the front wall, and it certainly affects image depth in a very special way, whether real or imagined... so I tend to agree with you on this. Of course that much distance is not needed, and this placement is mainly because I have no choice in my case..

But it works really well especially since I have stereo subs in the front corners. It is quite interesting to try with and without subs in that case: I can easily switch back and forth in my setup with setup 1 being full-range speakers (at 3m) *without* subs (and without RP, but with ARC) and setup 2 being speakers with subs (corner placed and of course properly time/phase aligned) at a 60Hz crossover (and with RP). Both sounds good but after some A/B also with a few visitors it is pretty clear for everyone that the corner subs add a fair bit more of that tight bass, while the freely placed speakers still contribute to the image depth. This is quite evident even with RP in bypass, but even more so with RP in the focus setting (as expected). It is easy to see this on measurements too.

So perhaps my advice would be to place those nice speakers where they sound the very best (except for in the lowest octave), and get a couple of subs for the stuff below 100Hz or so and place those in the corners or close to corners. With proper distance settings followed by RP this could be a substantial upgrade.. :lesson:
 
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So, I decided to purchase a TDAi 3400 rather than a TDAi 2170.

It should arrive at my place this week.

I will be integrating it into a 5.1 system but, for the first few days at least, I intend to test it solely for stereo duties - first just as an amp for 'large' speakers without RP; then with my subwoofer but still without RP; then with RP but with my speakers in their current, relatively ideal position (symmetrical in front of the facing wall, with plenty of space behind them); and then finally with the speakers moved into their highly compromised new position, which is my main reason for wanting RP.

I'm also going to testing a set of Iso-acoustic GAIA feet, instead of my current Townshend Podiums, to decouple my PMC OB1i speakers from my engineered wood floor. I can't imagine that the GAIA will be as good as the Townsend Podiums but hopefully they will be good enough. Unlike the GAIA, the Podiums have a footprint that is substantially larger than the speaker, which unfortunately makes it difficult to place the speakers quite where they need to go.

I'm hoping RP will keep a good, deep soundstage intact when the speakers are in their new position. They will fire somewhat diagonally across the room rather than straight across, with a corner of the room being in between the two speakers. The right speaker will be pushed right up against its current wall; the left speaker will be brought forward and pushed up against the side wall. I'll try and take some pictures, and post them on here, later this week.

All tips are gratefully received, regarding getting things set up.
 
So, I decided to purchase a TDAi 3400 rather than a TDAi 2170.

It should arrive at my place this week.

I will be integrating it into a 5.1 system but, for the first few days at least, I intend to test it solely for stereo duties - first just as an amp for 'large' speakers without RP; then with my subwoofer but still without RP; then with RP but with my speakers in their current, relatively ideal position (symmetrical in front of the facing wall, with plenty of space behind them); and then finally with the speakers moved into their highly compromised new position, which is my main reason for wanting RP.

I'm also going to testing a set of Iso-acoustic GAIA feet, instead of my current Townshend Podiums, to decouple my PMC OB1i speakers from my engineered wood floor. I can't imagine that the GAIA will be as good as the Townsend Podiums but hopefully they will be good enough. Unlike the GAIA, the Podiums have a footprint that is substantially larger than the speaker, which unfortunately makes it difficult to place the speakers quite where they need to go.

I'm hoping RP will keep a good, deep soundstage intact when the speakers are in their new position. They will fire somewhat diagonally across the room rather than straight across, with a corner of the room being in between the two speakers. The right speaker will be pushed right up against its current wall; the left speaker will be brought forward and pushed up against the side wall. I'll try and take some pictures, and post them on here, later this week.

All tips are gratefully received, regarding getting things set up.
Yes please post some pics. But IMHO nothing beats symmetry to achieve that "perfect" soundstage if that is your goal. The clue is physical/acoustical symmetry of direct and reflected sound, with speakers up to the task as well. As long as you achieve that you should be good, and perhaps your planned placement will achieve that, not sure before I see the pics. If not, even RP or most other room correction system I've tried will not fully compensate. This one comes a bit closer than most though: English
Even so, the best investment I did was to build a wall in my movie room so that left and right speakers were exactly the same distance from the side walls and equal distance from the MLP.. then it all just worked...
 
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Not sure how much of an advice this is but in my case I have my front speakers (Paradigm Persona 9H, very full range speakers) about 3m from the front wall, and it certainly affects image depth in a very special way, whether real or imagined... so I tend to agree with you on this. Of course that much distance is not needed, and this placement is mainly because I have no choice in my case..

But it works really well especially since I have stereo subs in the front corners. It is quite interesting to try with and without subs in that case: I can easily switch back and forth in my setup with setup 1 being full-range speakers (at 3m) *without* subs (and without RP, but with ARC) and setup 2 being speakers with subs (corner placed and of course properly time/phase aligned) at a 60Hz crossover (and with RP). Both sounds good but after some A/B also with a few visitors it is pretty clear for everyone that the corner subs add a fair bit more of that tight bass, while the freely placed speakers still contribute to the image depth. This is quite evident even with RP in bypass, but even more so with RP in the focus setting (as expected). It is easy to see this on measurements too.

So perhaps my advice would be to place those nice speakers where they sound the very best (except for in the lowest octave), and get a couple of subs for the stuff below 100Hz or so and place those in the corners or close to corners. With proper distance settings followed by RP this could be a substantial upgrade.. :lesson:
Thanks so much for the reply. It sounds like the rule of thumb is to place the speakers in as good a position (soundwise) as possible, (add subwoofers to the back wall if desired), and run Room Perfect afterward.

I wonder if people using Lyngdorf's MH-2 or FR-1 with the speakers on the wall can hear a good depth in their sound field? I ask because I am thinking about buying those down the road for another room.
 
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So, I decided to purchase a TDAi 3400 rather than a TDAi 2170.

It should arrive at my place this week.

I will be integrating it into a 5.1 system but, for the first few days at least, I intend to test it solely for stereo duties - first just as an amp for 'large' speakers without RP; then with my subwoofer but still without RP; then with RP but with my speakers in their current, relatively ideal position (symmetrical in front of the facing wall, with plenty of space behind them); and then finally with the speakers moved into their highly compromised new position, which is my main reason for wanting RP.

I'm also going to testing a set of Iso-acoustic GAIA feet, instead of my current Townshend Podiums, to decouple my PMC OB1i speakers from my engineered wood floor. I can't imagine that the GAIA will be as good as the Townsend Podiums but hopefully they will be good enough. Unlike the GAIA, the Podiums have a footprint that is substantially larger than the speaker, which unfortunately makes it difficult to place the speakers quite where they need to go.

I'm hoping RP will keep a good, deep soundstage intact when the speakers are in their new position. They will fire somewhat diagonally across the room rather than straight across, with a corner of the room being in between the two speakers. The right speaker will be pushed right up against its current wall; the left speaker will be brought forward and pushed up against the side wall. I'll try and take some pictures, and post them on here, later this week.

All tips are gratefully received, regarding getting things set up.


What is the benefit of not using it with RP engaged? It makes it nothing more than an decent stereo amp in that case.

Why would you run your speakers large, without a sub when your speakers won't be able to dig down low enough to cover the frequency response? You can of course, prefer to not use a subwoofer, but all it is, is an extension of a loudspeaker - it's not like cheating on your wife.

Why would think that one set of isolation feet is better than another, or that your speaker cabinets are designed so poorly when decoupling has been largely dismissed when it's assumed your speakers aren't hot garbage. They are not designed to be used with decouplers and they don't use them in the design and testing phase, so why would you?

£400 for the left and right speaker could buy you a lot of sausages.


The main reason / tip for having a 3400 is having and using RP, regardless where your speakers are. The effect of the room will impact the sound more than any shaky audiophile remedy.
 
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Thanks so much for the reply. It sounds like the rule of thumb is to place the speakers in as good a position (soundwise) as possible, and run Room Perfect afterwards.

I wonder if people using Lyngdorf's MH-2 or FR-1 with the speakers on the wall can hear a good depth in their sound field? I ask because I am thinking about buying those down the road for another room.

It's a good idea to see what your subs do corner loaded, but to get the best L/R sound assuming it's not an on wall is to try it at various distances. Lyngdorf do have an argument for backing them up, but it doesn't always apply you could measure it ti remove bias if you were so inclined, but I personally wouldn't worry about it.
 
It's a good idea to see what your subs do corner loaded, but to get the best L/R sound assuming it's not an on wall is to try it at various distances. Lyngdorf do have an argument for backing them up, but it doesn't always apply you could measure it ti remove bias if you were so inclined, but I personally wouldn't worry about it.

Thank you, what does "measure it to remove bias" mean?
 
Thank you, what does "measure it to remove bias" mean?

Measure the in room sound using a microphone and software like REW. That way you can back up what you 'think' you hear and remove any bias you may have.

I's not entirely necessary either, you can do the whole thing by ear and room perfect is more than likely going to do a great job anyway - some people like to go the extra mile, that's all.
 
the best investment I did was to build a wall in my movie room so that left and right speakers were exactly the same distance from the side walls and equal distance from the MLP.. then it all just worked...

You said that was to keep illegals out. What was wrong with your old wall? Don't you have walls in Norway?
 
Thanks so much for the reply. It sounds like the rule of thumb is to place the speakers in as good a position (soundwise) as possible, (add subwoofers to the back wall if desired), and run Room Perfect afterward.

I wonder if people using Lyngdorf's MH-2 or FR-1 with the speakers on the wall can hear a good depth in their sound field? I ask because I am thinking about buying those down the road for another room.

I've heard the MH-2 and accompanying boundary subs several times now with a Lyngdorf 3400 driving them and would say that while they are a good on-wall solution for stereo, they are definitely lacking in image depth if that is important to you. Image width and height are fine, but there is no image depth to my ears. I would liken it to being in the centre of a band just in front of the drummer rather than being in the audience. Some people might like that, I personally don't.

I only have my L&R front speakers about 65cm from the wall (measured to the front of the speaker) and this gives me excellent imaging, especially depth with a 3400 and RP. I have tried them right up against the back wall and didn't like it much, but that was several months ago now.
 
I've heard the MH-2 and accompanying boundary subs several times now with a Lyngdorf 3400 driving them and would say that while they are a good on-wall solution for stereo, they are definitely lacking in image depth if that is important to you. Image width and height are fine, but there is no image depth to my ears. I would liken it to being in the centre of a band just in front of the drummer rather than being in the audience. Some people might like that, I personally don't.

I only have my L&R front speakers about 65cm from the wall (measured to the front of the speaker) and this gives me excellent imaging, especially depth with a 3400 and RP. I have tried them right up against the back wall and didn't like it much, but that was several months ago now.

Thank you! May I ask which L&R front speakers you're using?
 
You said that was to keep illegals out. What was wrong with your old wall? Don't you have walls in Norway?
Ha-ha, good one! but you see, our walls melt in the spring, just as we come out of hibernation :)

But seriously the importance of a good symmetrical room seem to be underrated. I've seen people with 200k$ systems placed in horrible ways.. It may look pretty, with fancy looking speakers and glowing cables and stands hovering on magnets in thin air, but reflections will be all over the place and with hardly any imaging as a result... makes me sad ;-) Of course room correction helps and can make even bad rooms sound "okay" but there are limits to what can be achieved with digital signal manipulations..

At least try to have about the same distance to the side walls, that's all I am saying.. I used to have an open hallway area to the left of my "movie area/room" whereas the right speaker was about 1m from the side wall. With RP it sounded "good" but not "great"... Building that new wall with some proper internal damping (a combination of beeswax and other secret ingredients) did not really affect the frequency response much as that is within what RP could fix anyways. The main benefits was the improved depth and width of the stereo image.. And the Atmos/Auro3D experience improved as well.

As you perhaps remember I am building a better home for the Westminsters too, should be ready for your anticipated visit (November was it? And please bring that 4K projector you promised me as payment for those fuses I will make for you, just need to collect the extra special wax from North Norway first - next week work starts should be done by November ;-)
 
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Ha-ha, good one! but you see, our walls melt in the spring, just as we come out of hibernation :)

But seriously the importance of a good symmetrical room seem to be underrated. I've seen people with 200k$ systems placed in horrible ways.. It may look pretty, with fancy looking speakers and glowing cables and stands hovering on magnets in thin air, but reflections will be all over the place and with hardly any imaging as a result... makes me sad ;-) Of course room correction helps and can make even bad rooms sound "okay" but there are limits to what can be achieved with digital signal manipulations..

At least try to have about the same distance to the side walls, that's all I am saying.. I used to have an open hallway area to the left of my "movie area/room" whereas the right speaker was about 1m from the side wall. With RP it sounded "good" but not "great"... Building that new wall with some proper internal damping (a combination of beeswax and other secret ingredients) did not really affect the frequency response much as that is within what RP could fix anyways. The main benefits was the improved depth and width of the stereo image.. And the Atmos/Auro3D experience improved as well.

As you perhaps remember I am building a better home for the Westminsters too, should be ready for your anticipated visit (November was it? And please bring that 4K projector you promised me as payment for those fuses I will make for you, just need to collect the extra special wax from North Norway first - next week work starts should be done by November ;-)


Oh, I thought you already had a wall but for some reason built another one that was maybe less crooked and thought you'd lost your mind.. My side and rear spacing is identical but there is some ripple in the plaster since it's 100yrs old and was probably done by a victorian child...

Yes, I look forward to how that works out with the westminsters and perhaps had the wall been built earlier, you wouldn't have a family of 7 living in one of them, but i digress....

Don't threaten me with visits, I haven't been anywhere in 110 days, as soon as this death plague is over I'm going to let off some steam and go see a bunch of people, hear a bunch of systems.

I've been reading some of the discussion on room treatment in other threads, I'm glad I'm agnostic on it and have had the chance to record different things in different rooms and how little of it is actually used in studios, despite what a lot of people seem to think - a quick watch of the Sonic Highways documentary or Sound City is worth a watch.
 
So, my TDAi 3400 has arrived already, and it's currently playing.

It's big!

I have a few question already -

When playing in stereo (2.0) is it possible to set the speaker distances and SPL levels, or can adjustments only be made using the balance (trim) control?

At the bottom of the remote control are three buttons with symbols depicting musical notes, but the instruction manual doesn't mention these buttons at all. What are they for?

The manual says nothing about the "subsonic filter" that is by default enabled in the audio setup menu. What is this intended to do please?

Thanks.
 
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