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Lyngdorf discussion

Discopants

Active Member
A dark backround eh? Is this like the notes you don't hear - stop messing about Jules.

I'd take fibre over copper for data, but the noise difference that translates into audible spectrum - I remain skeptical. The copper run would have to be so bad it would be breaking into audible levels in everyday listening which if I ever find this bloody video on youtube is shedload of noise.


Remain skeptical, its a great starting point for objective listening, but try these things , experiment and be open minded.

This is a great video by the way, thanks!
Well worth the hour good demonstrations. In a nutshell though the measurements in audio are far from perfect measurements can be presented to show better numbers than what counts and there are things we can hear that cant be measured. This is from the guy who sells audio measurements devices to audio engineers.

Albert Einstein once wrote on a blackboard: “Not everything that counts can be counted, and not everything that can be counted counts”. 🥰
 

stjernholm

Active Member
I have no problem believing in the possible enhancements. In my experience, it is very important to use the same powersource for all components in the system, and when that is not possible, make sure that AV signals is galvanic isolated from each other. I was a firm believer in that ones and zeros are ones and zeros, but I am realised through listening, that it is not always the case (and sometimes you might have different voicings applied to the sources you are comparing..... :rolleyes: :laugh:)
 

AVBeginner

Active Member
Quick simple question for someone.
I have the TDAI-2170 with optional Analogue and HDMI modules. If I upgrade to a 3400, are the modules transferable?
If I split the question into two parts:
-Are the upgrade modules for the 2170 identical to that of the 3400?
- Is it possible to retro fit modules into the 3400?
 

Discopants

Active Member
Quick simple question for someone.
I have the TDAI-2170 with optional Analogue and HDMI modules. If I upgrade to a 3400, are the modules transferable?
If I split the question into two parts:
-Are the upgrade modules for the 2170 identical to that of the 3400?
- Is it possible to retro fit modules into the 3400?
No, the 2170 hdmi module has 5 ports and the 3400 only has 4 ports for starters.
 

DT79

Well-known Member
No, the 2170 hdmi module has 5 ports and the 3400 only has 4 ports for starters.
Not sure if there was originally an older HDMI module for the 2170 but the current one has 3 inputs and 1 ARC output.
 

larkone

Member
No, the 2170 hdmi module has 5 ports and the 3400 only has 4 ports for starters.
AIUI the 4 input HDMI module is the 2K module and the 3 input module is the 4K. My 2170 has the 4 inputs and can only handle up to 2K. The HDMI module is a factory fit only option.
 
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Rock Danger

Distinguished Member
Remain skeptical, its a great starting point for objective listening, but try these things , experiment and be open minded.

This is a great video by the way, thanks!
Well worth the hour good demonstrations. In a nutshell though the measurements in audio are far from perfect measurements can be presented to show better numbers than what counts and there are things we can hear that cant be measured. This is from the guy who sells audio measurements devices to audio engineers.

Albert Einstein once wrote on a blackboard: “Not everything that counts can be counted, and not everything that can be counted counts”. 🥰
I think it's a good video for anyone looking to identify why things sound a bit sh*t a lot of the time.


I remain skeptical of my own abilities to hear certain things at certain times or at all. Audio engineers are trained to hear when something sounds bad - bad is defined by audible nasties like distortion etc. At that point there are several courses of action that can be taken to correct the problem and this is what data and measurements show - excessive clipping and whatnot being the most common.

If all things are recorded as best as possible there should be enough bandwidth to alter the tonality of something - it is those things that fall on the subjective side of the artist and engineer. In AV this is down to the kit used for sure, but ultimately it's going to be the room correction keeping the sound from the speakers you like the way you like them.

How you post EQ that sound, or how your blood pressure is that day, anxiety, how much sleep you've had, how much crap you ate that week all effect your hearing and without you knowing, can affect what you think you hear. This is something you can demonstrate reasonably easily and is very common among engineers and musicians.

Without wandering off on this too much - how someone likes their tonality is up to them, the fidelity of that sound however is not because it would be unbearable to us humans and we wouldn't be able to construct accurate playback devices without the ability to measure and reduce said nasties.




I once had someone argue with me that they could hear a speaker offset by 1cm at a listening distance of over 12 feet away - my argument was 'how do you get your head in the same place every time and keep it so still?' Then realised he probably had some BDSM harness and a gimp mask.
 

jaygreen

Active Member
I think with those crossovers you are missing 150-200Hz for your channels except L&R. So, for example your center speaker will not play 150-200Hz since you cross at 200Hz on the Marantz and 150Hz on the Lyngdorf. I think you need to cross both at the same level.
hi

so everything goes to the Lyngdorf below 200hz then it gets cross over in the Lyngdorf at 150 between the l&r and subs. Pretty sure nothing is being lost

jay
 

scoc

Well-known Member
hi

so everything goes to the Lyngdorf below 200hz then it gets cross over in the Lyngdorf at 150 between the l&r and subs. Pretty sure nothing is being lost

jay
You are correct, I made a mistake.

But I think the freq. range between 150Hz-200Hz for the channels (except L R LFE) are then send to the main speakers and not the subs. Personally in that case I would prefer the subs playing the complete range up to 200Hz for all channels if the sub can handle this (most stop around 140Hz).
 

jaygreen

Active Member
You are correct, I made a mistake.

But I think the freq. range between 150Hz-200Hz for the channels (except L R LFE) are then send to the main speakers and not the subs. Personally in that case I would prefer the subs playing the complete range up to 200Hz for all channels if the sub can handle this (most stop around 140Hz).
Thanks I’ll give it a go. The subs are happy playing up to 200hz I’ve been told.
 

DT79

Well-known Member
This isn’t Lyngdorf specific, but there’s a Lyngdorf involved, so I’ll ask it here - what‘s the best termination for speaker cables, or does it vary depending on what you’re connecting them to? I’m going to get some cables made up with connectors properly soldered on and I was wondering whether to go with spades (in which case what size as I’ve bought spades in the past and they’ve always been too small to fit round the binding posts) or banana plugs. My 2170 and Dynaudios both have very similar looking binding posts.

Thanks.
 

Seriously Ltd

Distinguished Member
AVForums Sponsor
We don’t terminate our cables but if you do then spades are out recommendation.
 

scoc

Well-known Member
I have been using banana terminated speakers for the past 8 years on my 3 different LA amps ... never been an issue. I prefer banana terminated since then there is no need to tighten them like spades.
 
I have an LG OLED sending audio via optical to my TDAI2170 and it works like a charm. There are lipsync controls but I've not needed them.

sadly, the HDMI-CEC stuff hasn't worked as well, which is kinda what I bought the HDMI board for but there you go...
ok thx all for the replies. This is the info I needed. I perhaps thought that because of lyngdorf dsp there might be a delay in the sound. Most lip sync settings allow you to delay the sound but not speed up I guess. I think tv's also have a lipsync setting but not sure if it's to delay audio or video (and then what with gaming as you don't want to delay video,..) either way, happy this shouldn't be a concern.

thanks!
 

DT79

Well-known Member
Can anyone let me know what sort of (bog standard) fuse is needed in the UK mains plug for a TDAI-2170 please? Mine came supplied with a euro lead so I must have asked or figured it out before, but I’ve dismantled everything while we decorate and I’ve got my mains leads mixed up.
 

Rock Danger

Distinguished Member
Can anyone let me know what sort of (bog standard) fuse is needed in the UK mains plug for a TDAI-2170 please? Mine came supplied with a euro lead so I must have asked or figured it out before, but I’ve dismantled everything while we decorate and I’ve got my mains leads mixed up.
5-13amp it really makes no difference.
 

DT79

Well-known Member

Rock Danger

Distinguished Member
Thanks. I did wonder given that the euro lead doesn’t seem to have one at all.
Pretty much most things run on 5A if it blows up put 13A in it. I don't think I've ever looked at any of my power cables ever, but I'd say they're all 13A.

Well, we had Brexit for a reason..
 

arisholm

Well-known Member
Pretty much most things run on 5A if it blows up put 13A in it. I don't think I've ever looked at any of my power cables ever, but I'd say they're all 13A.

Well, we had Brexit for a reason..
There must be something I don't get: Do you Britons have fuses in the cables??
 

Rock Danger

Distinguished Member
There must be something I don't get: Do you Britons have fuses in the cables??
Beeswax in the cables, fuses in the beeswax, fuses in the plugs, which then plug into beeswax mains power.
 

Attachments

arisholm

Well-known Member
Beeswax in the cables, fuses in the beeswax, fuses in the plugs, which then plug into beeswax mains power.
Ah, GREAT, so you actually have fuses in your fuse box, then a fuse in each power cable and one or more fuses in each component. And all of them should preferably be the audiophile kind I am sure. Lovely! Rock you know what business you should get into now ;-)
View attachment 1584303855847.png
 

Rock Danger

Distinguished Member
Ah, GREAT, so you actually have fuses in your fuse box, then a fuse in each power cable and one or more fuses in each component. And all of them should preferably be the audiophile kind I am sure. Lovely! Rock you know what business you should get into now ;-)
View attachment 1269895
Well, some of us do - most people have breaker boxes these days and I'm sure there's an 'enthusiast' that will have some theory on how one is better than the other.

There's meant to be some mains conditioning in the Lyngdorf products, I wonder what values it has when fed problematic power... and if you open the case will bees fly out and get you?
 

arisholm

Well-known Member
<self-censored, not joking times o_O >
 
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