Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by MississippiMan, Oct 21, 2004.
Post, and all will be revealed.
What are the consequences of using a slightly thinner mirror? Because the only UK source identified so far was 0.112mm I think.
No problems at all. as long as there is a "Gap" to mind, there will be Light Fusion. In fact, all in all, you Blokes might be in for an even slightly sharper image and one ever so slightly higher in gain. About .006 higher.
But seriously, .112mm is very thin. My .112 is in the Inches form of Measures. .118" is approx 3.2mm (1/8")
I think. Don't have time now to go hunt up a conversion table, but if the info is bogus, it will get corrected, now won't it?
Sorry people and Mman in particular, I didn't mean to be mysterious, I was just planning on experimenting some more before getting back to you.
It was a piece of greaseproof paper out of the kitchen...
0.112 inches, ahem, sorry I meant inches. I made the same mistake as was made on the other thread
Sounds cool. Imagine if it were that easy!!! A bit of sticky back plastic and grease proof paper. Oooh, it's like an episode of Blue Peter!!
I did a search for the biggest greaseproof paper I could find, a company in China does sheets in 30x40 inches (unfortunately not big enough!). Interestingly they said the product was widely used in the 'light' industry???
You.... are... Joking...! 'Grease Proof Paper!!!!' I'm stunned! I can imagine hundreds of people around the world elbowing there way into the kitchen and gazing in wonder as they hold up to the light.....GREASE PROOF PAPER.... Um like I did..
Actually its quite textured, not surface wise, but in the way the light shines through with some parts more transparent than others and in fact with some tiny holes thoughout which you don't see with the light falling onto it's surface. Well on my secret hoard it is anyway. Maybe thats why it seemed brighter? than the other, err things you tried.
The mind boggles.
MMan I think you said earlier (correct me if i'm wrong) that you originally developed the light fusion screen for use with low or lowish lumen projectors. I'm thinking of getting a ae700 and I'd like my picture to be as bright as possible. Is it possible do you think, for this screen to be too bright for some projectors ie: ae700?
This sounds a little post dated, but I did insert that guess (Wax Paper I wrote...) then remove it, not wanting to usurp your suprise. The Translucent plastic films I've experimented with all failed to have the correct amount of opacity. If only. By now, I'd be a rich man, for indeed, that idea was kept under wraps while it was being researched for me by 3 different Mfg. They came up with nothing that could work 1/4 as good as a Plain White paint, let alone the MMud.
Not in the least. I've used light Fusion with 2200 Lumen LCDs (PLV-70) and 2500 Lumen DLPs (Boxlight 720) BAM, the image is in your lap!
Thanks MMan, I'm really looking forward to seeing your pic's. Unfortunally it's late and I have to go to work tomorrow having had the last couple of days off and unlike you, having acheived not a lot at all. The wife is not well pleased, particularly as she saw what i'd put on the other thread. I'll pick this up tomorrow night...morning.. well you no what I mean!
(...any guesses as to how many times I'll have to type that?)
Just had quick look before going. Maybe MMan you could put it in as signature or something so it gets tagged to the bottem of each page!
I'll post "Non Informative" Images here until after I'm done on the other thread.
"Feast on this Flesh"
I was interested to see if putting a translucent layer in front of a mirror gave anything like the effect you were describing, greaseproof paper was the easiest thing to try and proved to me the concept works. I wasn't trying to suggest we should use it for a real screen Mothball
Can I cook, or what?
That's all for now. I'll go to work, and All Ya all, ya jus go ta bed, ya here?
Thanks man, they are really really impressive! I'm gonna get me one of them!
Those blacks do loog good, are the screenshots from dlp's, lcd's or crt's. I could be interested in contributing for part of the missisipimans flight and be one of the five.
I'm pretty sure they're from an LCD. That is the main point of this screen.
Some are LCD, some are DLP. I'll do my best to go back and edit in the varibiles
LCDs were the Z2 & PLV-70
DLP was the Studio Experience 50-HD
Light Fusion works equally well with both, although I sometimes use some additional Red Oxide tint for a LCD
(very VERY little indeed 1/192nd of an Oz.)
Hi Mississippi i wanted to say thank you for all your efforts it has been fascinating following your posts so far.
The images you have shown are amazing which got me to wondering if an LF screen might be too good for my lowly Toshiba MT1Z (700 ansi 300:1 contrast i think) to benefit from.
If that is the case can you suggest the best alternative for me.
Thanks in advance Jack.
Light Fusion is just what you need to make your PJ look far better than it does / can at present. It'll up your percived Contrast, and make the most of every Lumen your Toshiba can muster. Lastly, you can count on LF to be there when you finially upgrade, and it is sure to enable your choice to also perform at top rank levels.
Hi Mississippi thanks for the fast reply . That was just what the wifey didn't want to hear .
I will continue to follow your posts with great intrest.
Thanks again Jack.
Bearing in mind the much lower light output of most CRT projectors, are there any benefits of using this type of screen for CRT owners?
CRT's are the Top Bananas as far as resolution and image quality delevered, but are chiefly responsible for the entire Front PJ genre being labled as "Too Expensive, and requiring complete loght control for a decent presentation. Newer "Light Cannons" of both DLP & LCD varieties are changing that "view", albiet with CR levels that are less than sterling.
For a CRT, the main benefi is optimum usage of lumens without affecting the Viewing cone. Distribution of light across the screen is virtually perfect due to the "backlit" affect.
This delivers additional punch and a color correctness that augments the performance of a CRT, and ups the ambient light veiwing ability somewhat on sub 800 Lumen CRTs. Takes the contrast of the CRT and ups the 3-D effect to astounding levels.
Costs less in any format, DIY or Custom Made than any high tech screen (Vutec SilverStar - Da-lite High Power - Stewart's entire flock of Birds and the StudioTek 130 - etc.)
Would that some enterprising new Mfg produce a "Three Gunner" w/1500 lumens, that would weigh less than a Mini-Cooper, and cost less than a Bentley, we could all benifit from the incredible CR levels. But until then, Po' Folk can get damn close with any DLP or CRT w CR's of 1500:1 or higher, while you CRT owners can bask in the glory of having the best image on-screen that you can possible obtain with your Uber-Pjs, without spending too conspiculously.
I'm obviously coming in very late to this............
Read a LOT of your postings about light fusion screens last night.
The mirror, then spray (professional spray gun) with a coat of your 3 paints mixed together. all having to be done JUST RIGHT to get the correct effect.
To much paint = you may as well just paint your wall (effect)
I was just wondering if it was worth experimenting with a mirror and some canned spray paints in the UK.
From reading your posts, I'm not sure exactly how much paint you are spraying on.
Say, you were spraying a clear perspex sheet.
I'm sure you are spraying enough to cover the sheet totally (if you looked under magnification) there are no clear spots.
It's just a single thin waft of paint, no layers to build up, just a powerdery coating is it ?
I'm just trying to get my head around how much paint is going onto the mirror.
would a Perlescent matt white be the closest way of describing it ?
Or are we a little down from a white, and more into a very light grey ?
Sorry for the basic questions.
Like everyone else, it's the getting the paint and getting it sprayed (WITH LOTS OF PRACTICE) which is the sticking point.
Anyone else got anywhere with the paint yet?
I bought a tin of Dulux 'Deep base' and some 'Diamond Pealescent' Today, no sign of plastic mirrors though. I haven't done a mix but tested the pearlescent and it has a slight creamy tint when it dries, could get the ingredients and mix my own.....
My dear Fellows,
I worked on the next chapter of the "Light Fusion is Here" thread for two hours this AM instead of getting ready for my youngest Son's wedding. At the last possible instant, as I was attempting to hit post, the system hung, went into "Protection Fault", and Blue Screened me.
Dissasembled, quantumly. My post resides in another demension, that of what was.
Contained within that post was the information, corrections, and advice these last few posts referenced. Suffice to say, in response to the enquirys, that no, there is deffinately more MMud on the mirror than a thin powdery coating. Proper coverage entails at least three seperate coats, each of which will receive varying thicknesses, depending on the previous coat, and it's "on Mirror" appearance.
All the above depends on acquired technique, something that does come far easier when wittnessed and then tried under a controlled situation. Otherwise, paractice on more forgiving (...actual Glass mirrors, they scrape clean easily...) or disposable / reusable sheets. There is no small degree of practicality with the latter, for if there was no Light fusion, you'd be instead reading and veiwing of my successes with straight MMud panels, and Silver Metallic / MMud overlays.
To any event, soon, perhaps by tommorrow morning, I'll gather my thoghts together again and repost not one but two additional chapters. Within you will find actual photos of the three stages of coverage. Ignore the Man in front of the Mirror holding the strange looking device.
the screen shots look great - though as has been said many times before, a screenshot doesnt necessarily tell the whole story.
I would be extremely interested to see a few pics of a LF screen with something like a white sheet/paper over 1/2 the screen (like the sony blackscreen shots). To see the improvement in contrast/black levels over a non-LF alternative. Also, if you could take a close up at the 'border' so the pixel smooting effect is visible too it would be really interesting !
Such comparisons tell only a small part of the story, and in the case of the Sony, serve only to highlight the difference in contrast, which is certainly not enough of a reason to justify the expense that screen will entail. It is doomed IMO.
However, if it was to be done, it would indeed entail the use of a Full 1/2 to 1/2 comparison. Nothing smaller could really give the indication as to how the overall effect of Light Fusion's properties work together to produce the images it does.
so thats a no then?
I shall have to locate a complted LF screen within a suitable radius, arm myself with some ben and jerrys and some DVD's, and invite myself in then!
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