Quantcast

LG OLED C9 Owners and Discussion Thread

TremendousTea

Active Member
So, the logic behind disconnecting from the internet has now been realised. Under General - Additional Settings there is an option called 'Live Plus' which tracks what you watch/play and shares with third parties. Apparently when in Game mode this has a negative affect due to the lower input lag and whilst it is processing the live plus function, it causes "hiccups" so to speak and was therefore creating these frame skips.

So if you don't game or if you do and don't play fast moving or panning content you'll likely never see it. But there's the fix if anyone needs it, just turn that setting off:thumbsup:
 
So, the logic behind disconnecting from the internet has now been realised. Under General - Additional Settings there is an option called 'Live Plus' which tracks what you watch/play and shares with third parties. Apparently when in Game mode this has a negative affect due to the lower input lag and whilst it is processing the live plus function, it causes "hiccups" so to speak and was therefore creating these frame skips.

So if you don't game or if you do and don't play fast moving or panning content you'll likely never see it. But there's the fix if anyone needs it, just turn that setting off:thumbsup:
So can the live plus be just turned off?
 

Ubarrow

Standard Member
342EB349-2B9A-4F1F-9DE9-32ED84E9CD12.jpeg
Hope it’s ok to pinch this pic from an earlier post.
This message comes up every 20 minutes or so, referring to the input I’m not using. So if I’m viewing via the net it will tell me my Humax input is available, and vice versa. I find it quite annoying but can’t find out how to stop it happening. It stays on the screen for about 5 seconds then goes. Any solutions?
 

KrazyKev

Active Member
View attachment 1303813Hope it’s ok to pinch this pic from an earlier post.
This message comes up every 20 minutes or so, referring to the input I’m not using. So if I’m viewing via the net it will tell me my Humax input is available, and vice versa. I find it quite annoying but can’t find out how to stop it happening. It stays on the screen for about 5 seconds then goes. Any solutions?
Try turning off the CEC on that device
 

TremendousTea

Active Member
Sounds like it. I always turn that stuff off, i don’t know why anyone would want to willingly share that info, it has no benefits from what I can imagine.
Yeah it can be, I think in the rush to play with my new toy I just clicked accept all instead of reading :facepalm:

My only issue now is AI Brightness. I've had a response from LG that it should brighten up the HDR picture when ambient light changes in the room without Dynamic Tone mapping being enabled.

But in Dolby Vision mode, AI Brightness setting is only available in the brighter Cinema Home preset. So I'm not sure if Dynamic Tone mapping was actually making it brighter then when ambient light is dark the TV then dims the picture?

It's the only issue I'm having currently, if anyone would be kind enough to check if they are any changes in HDR brightness with this setting on so I know if it's the sensor that's broken or whether it's just a mute feature.

Thanks! :)
 

Colliepops

Active Member
Yeah it can be, I think in the rush to play with my new toy I just clicked accept all instead of reading :facepalm:

My only issue now is AI Brightness. I've had a response from LG that it should brighten up the HDR picture when ambient light changes in the room without Dynamic Tone mapping being enabled.

But in Dolby Vision mode, AI Brightness setting is only available in the brighter Cinema Home preset. So I'm not sure if Dynamic Tone mapping was actually making it brighter then when ambient light is dark the TV then dims the picture?

It's the only issue I'm having currently, if anyone would be kind enough to check if they are any changes in HDR brightness with this setting on so I know if it's the sensor that's broken or whether it's just a mute feature.

Thanks! :)
I've noticed mine does work it's not noticable until you flick it on and off and only works really in a bright room try The grand tour on Amazon that shows quite well when flicking between ai brightness on or off. If you don't notice it maybe your room isn't light enough for it to kick in
 

TremendousTea

Active Member
I've noticed mine does work it's not noticable until you flick it on and off and only works really in a bright room try The grand tour on Amazon that shows quite well when flicking between ai brightness on or off. If you don't notice it maybe your room isn't light enough for it to kick in
Thanks, is it primarily shadow detail it lifts or does it do something similar to dynamic tone mapping? And do you have DTM off or on?

My room doesn't actually get any direct sun light into it so perhaps that's why I'm not seeing any effect. Though turning the lights on at night in a pitch black room didn't do anything either.

Thanks for your help, I'll try Grand Tour
 

Craig02

Active Member
Currently in the market for a new TV, I am aware of the C9 audio sync issues when using a HDMI source to pass-through dolby digital via ARC.

It might seem like an odd question but does it also effect eARC?

Thanks
 

Huw Phillips

Active Member
So, the logic behind disconnecting from the internet has now been realised. Under General - Additional Settings there is an option called 'Live Plus' which tracks what you watch/play and shares with third parties. Apparently when in Game mode this has a negative affect due to the lower input lag and whilst it is processing the live plus function, it causes "hiccups" so to speak and was therefore creating these frame skips.

So if you don't game or if you do and don't play fast moving or panning content you'll likely never see it. But there's the fix if anyone needs it, just turn that setting off:thumbsup:
Don't think I have really noticed this but thanks for finding the offending setting. I have turned it off just in case as its not something I want or need anyway.
 

Huw Phillips

Active Member
That’s ASBL (automatic static brightness limiter I think), not to be confused with ABL. They are two entirely different functions.
It’s intended to detect static images and dim the screen. Unfortunately it thinks dark scenes are static too and dims them. Ozark is one of the worst for triggering it.
It can be turned off in the service menu if you are brave enough to risk ruining your TV.
It’s something I was hoping LG would have fixed, but obviously not.:(
On the bright side there are not that many programmes that are affected thankfully.
Thanks for the info. I won't fiddle with the service menu, but it can be distracting in Ozark where it can happen quite often. Just wanted to know what was going on and your answer covered it perfectly so thanks.
 

gunner84

Distinguished Member
I personally bought and use this 5 meter PCSL® Premium Certified Braided HS: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics HDMI lead. It connected between my OPPO UDP-203 and LG television.

For people who are not doing so already, it is highly recommended that you use nothing but Premium Certified HDMI leads between devices that support HDR (High Dynamic Range) video and pass HDMI ARC/eARC.

Cheers
Sorry to quote an old post, just wondered do you still use source direct on the oppo203 with your C9?
I have been using source direct for a while on my B6 but since getting the CX wondered if source direct is still best, I presume it doesn't really matter though.
Thanks
 

CallmeDude

Novice Member
Evening Chaps
Thinking of buying the 65 C9 to replace my old Kuro, just a couple of quick questions on the install. I want to install the TV as close to the wall as I can.

Can anyone recommend a good wall bracket or what you guys have used? I wont be needing rotate/tilt or anything like that but I have seen a video where it is useful to pull out the TV to add/change cabling.

Looking at the pictures on the back of the C9, the Ethernet & Aerial slot is at the back rather than to the side. How have you done the cabling?
Thanks
 

Phragzy

Well-known Member
Evening Chaps
Thinking of buying the 65 C9 to replace my old Kuro, just a couple of quick questions on the install. I want to install the TV as close to the wall as I can.

Can anyone recommend a good wall bracket or what you guys have used? I wont be needing rotate/tilt or anything like that but I have seen a video where it is useful to pull out the TV to add/change cabling.

Looking at the pictures on the back of the C9, the Ethernet & Aerial slot is at the back rather than to the side. How have you done the cabling?
Thanks
I don't have this tv yet but a lot of people have commented on this wall mount which I have saved ready to purchase when I do jump in.

 

inktomite

Novice Member
Bought the 77 C9 this week (yay!) and needing to replace a 10 year old Onkyo (608). Been looking around but hard to find the right choice.. Hoping someone can direct:

Criteria:
- Support for eARC (high bandwidth return channel to receiver in 5.1)
- No compatibility issues with Apple TV
- Decent Watts (got hungry speakers, eg this one https://www.bestbuy.com/site/review...-3-way-center-channel-speaker-rosenut/8441054)
- Somewhat music focused Audiophile or Audiophile-lite.. own a turntable)

Realize not really much hdmi 2.1 out there right now, but out of what LG C9 owners recommend?
 

SirCozak

Novice Member
Currently in the market for a new TV, I am aware of the C9 audio sync issues when using a HDMI source to pass-through dolby digital via ARC.

It might seem like an odd question but does it also effect eARC?

Thanks
I have no issues passing audio through via earc to my Samsung Q90r soundbar. Everything is perfectly in sync.
 

joel09

Novice Member
Hi all, has anyone had issues with LG ARC being flakey? My setup is a Samsung HWN950, (HDMI2) Humax box going to HDMI 1 and a Formuler Z going to HDMI 3) I have tried different configurations to try and resolve the issue. I have some other devices that connect into the soundbar directly where I have no issues. For months I have been trying to resolve what causes my soundbar not to kick in ARC (from D-IN) every now and again it just broke.
Well last night I unplugged everything (again) and pulled out all the HDMI leads, this time I plugged them all back in one by one without setting the tv to standby (which I did before) As soon as I unplugged HDMi3 the ARC kicked back in. So it appears that If I plug anything into HDMI 3 it breaks the LG ARC handshake and I get no sound to my soundbar until I unplug it.
 

Similar threads

Trending threads

Latest News

AVForums Podcast: 24th May 2020
  • By Phil Hinton
  • Published
Sky HDR launch rumoured for 27th of May
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Sony 2020 8K LED and 48-inch OLED TV prices leaked
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
iFi launches iPhono3 Black Label phono stage
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Top Bottom