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LG OLED C9 Owners and Discussion Thread

ColonelKlinck

Novice Member
Has anyone got a link to instructions to downgrade the firmware that actually works? I want to go back from 4.71.05 to 4.71.04.
Thanks
 
Has anyone got a link to instructions to downgrade the firmware that actually works? I want to go back from 4.71.05 to 4.71.04.
Thanks
I don't believe it is possible to rollback firmware.

What issue are you having that isn't working? Just curious as I don't have any issues (not trying to rub your nose in it).

I believe the latest update is to do with NVIDIA G-Sync Compatibly, that's all.
 

ColonelKlinck

Novice Member
I don't believe it is possible to rollback firmware.

What issue are you having that isn't working? Just curious as I don't have any issues (not trying to rub your nose in it).

I believe the latest update is to do with NVIDIA G-Sync Compatibly, that's all.
Quoted my original post. I can only think its LG that has changed something in the web browser.


Anyone having problems playing BT Sport through the LG web browser? It had been working perfectly for months and played the enhanced streams flawlessly but fired up today and getting the "this browser isn't supported". Not sure if this the 4.71.05 update as I'm not sure when that installed but it definitely isn't working and I need it to work.
 

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ohnder

Active Member
Peak brightness should be off for SDR picture modes, and on/high for HDR picture modes.
I find medium to work better, and that is without dynamic tonemapping on. Only reason I have it on is because I had to take brightness down to 49 to hide the glowing blacks / chroma overshoot these displays tend to suffer from. Still, peak brightness should only be used to counteract daylight and unless you live in a bright desert surrounding there's no reason to max it out to high.
 

brailer

Active Member
Why do we concern ourselves with using low values for OLED light and contrast etc when Dolby vision turns all of them up to 11?.
 

DT79

Well-known Member
I find medium to work better, and that is without dynamic tonemapping on. Only reason I have it on is because I had to take brightness down to 49 to hide the glowing blacks / chroma overshoot these displays tend to suffer from. Still, peak brightness should only be used to counteract daylight and unless you live in a bright desert surrounding there's no reason to max it out to high.
This was confirmed by Steve Withers when he calibrated my set. If you don’t have peak brightness set to high then you won’t get, well, the peak brightness that the set is capable of, and if you don’t have dynamic tone mapping on, then any content graded above 700 nits On HDR10 or HLG will just be crushed.

I don‘t get any black glow and I’m not sure what chroma overshoot is, but if I’ve ever seen it I haven‘t realised.

By using peak brightness high you’re not making the whole image any brighter, only switching on the capability to make the brightest highlights be able to hit the peak capability of the display. Its HDR performance has been designed around this, so you won’t get what you paid for unless you utilise it.
 

DT79

Well-known Member
Why do we concern ourselves with using low values for OLED light and contrast etc when Dolby vision turns all of them up to 11?.
The idea is to use the right level of OLED light so that the peak brightness of an SDR image is 120 nits, which is what SDR images are graded to. It’s set to max for HDR content not so that the whole image is any brighter, but so that the brightest parts of the image can utilise the display’s peak brightness capability.
 

Colin McPhee

Standard Member
As discussed above, the gamma on ISF day is 2.2 as it is lighter, and BT1886 darker, to suit ISF dark. I'm confident someone else can chip in with a more technically satisfying explanation.

The ISF dark preset is also the most colour accurate out of the box, according AV Forums review. I wanted to get used to it, and we tried over a week but, it's no fun both squinting your eyes to see the picture.

As for the difference in the colour gamut, I don't know the answer and hopefully someone else will respond;).
I think the reason it is set to wide is to compensate for the light in a bright room diluting the colours. I remember I watched a video with Joel Silver (founder of isf) where he talked about having a TV in a sun room and how it impacted the picture. It was an episode of home theatre geeks on YouTube. If you’re interested in that kind of thing it’s worth a watch.
 

MissBimbo

Standard Member
Why do we concern ourselves with using low values for OLED light and contrast etc when Dolby vision turns all of them up to 11?.
Use what looks good to you.

I'm putting oled light at 80 even for dark room and it looks good.

I plan to change a TV once every 3-4 years btw.
 
@Parry or for anyone else ITK, I've persuaded the family to try with me the ISF dark preset for a week, one last time, to see if we can acclimatise to it. It cost me a fish and chippy supper mind to persuade 'em all:rotfl:.

The standard gamma in the preset is BT.1886; is there any benefit to enabling gamma 2.4 over BT.1886?

I've flicked between the two gammas in our living room full and not one of us can see a difference.

EDIT; I should add, we've all noticed the image displayed almost appear to become richer/warmer as the night's drawn in compared to the Cinema preset we're used to. Those are the words of a fourteen year old... I am not going to argue with their summation:thumbsup:.
 

astirling

Well-known Member
Set my C9 up last night. Definitely a step up from the B6.
I've tried some hdr dolby vision and standard def.
I'm a bit confused with everyone recommending isf dark. It just look so drab.
I much prefer isf bright and cinema home for dolby vision and hdr.
this would not be unreasonable if you’re watching with the lights on. ISF dark is more accurate but is designed to be watched in a dark room. Same with the Cinema HDR settings.
 

Ains

Active Member
This is doing my head in...

I've moved the HDMI Source indicator (the overlay that pops up when you switch sources) to the top right of the screen but I can't for the life of me remember how to move it back to the bottom. I've literally been through every setting on the TV (well, clearly there's at least one I've missed!) and can't find it.

I've googled it, of course, and can find the answer to every other question about the input banner except this one.

UPDATE : Ok , everyone can relax. Sorted. When you bring up the banner there's a mark that says "press BLUE to move Banner" and you can move it then . Doh !

Please help.
 
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Sally92

Active Member
Hoping someone can help. Everutime I turn my TV on with sky remote it doesn't switch to the hdmi source automatically like it used to. Same goes with any other inputs, I have to manually change source.

Does anyone know why it doesn't switch over by itself?
 

thelight

Novice Member
this would not be unreasonable if you’re watching with the lights on. ISF dark is more accurate but is designed to be watched in a dark room. Same with the Cinema HDR settings.
I'm curious. When people say 'dark room' do they mean completely black with the lights out? Or does it just mean darker than average? Like, north facing during daylight, or only a small lamp when dark compared to all main lights on?
 

Rieper47

Standard Member
Anyone else having trouble with the YouTube app over the last couple of days? It got stuck on the loading screen so tired power cycle, then uninstall, now I can't reinstall the app. It says failed to install. All other apps fine.
 

smslc9

Novice Member
LG 65 C9 is "audio clicking" randomly for a second using optical out.

I tested between my PC and TV and this is only happening on the TV so the audio interface im using is not at fault here. Ive tried to set the audio settings to auto/PCM. Tried across different content. Sound will skip randomly for a second. Very intrusive.
Apple TV 4K > HDMI > C9 Optical Out > SMSL SU-8 interface > Speakers
Latest firmware installed.
Tried 3 different optical cables.
 
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Geekster

Active Member
I have a LG55C9 with firmware 04.71.05 that has a problem with screen mirroring.
Any video played from iOS or Android devices to the TV via screen mirroring stutters, sometimes the audio drops and occasionally the picture freezes. It doesn't matter if the content is stored on the device or streamed, the result is always the same; juddering, choppy video.
I've looked at other forums here:
lgcommunity.us.com

Airplay stuttering and choppy audio
When trying to stream video via Airplay to my LG C9, the audio and video both stutter. When using Airplay with my Apple TV it's fine.
lgcommunity.us.com
lgcommunity.us.com
They report the same issues.

extra info:
My TV is wired directly to the router with 3 meters of cat 5e. My Wifi is fine, no interference. I have a 330mbps FTTP internet connection, anything played via the inbuilt TV apps works absolutely fine.
Iv'e rebooted everything, tried numerous different iPhones from visitors, the result is the same.

My question: Has anyone managed to screen mirror video successfully to the C9?
Thanks for your help
 

iNspectorgadJet

Well-known Member
I started out with mine wired, but it only has a 100mbps Ethernet port and it seems to struggle more than any other wired device in my house, so it actually gets better throughput over WiFi. Perhaps try the WiFi if you have a decent AC or AX router.
 

SeeMoreDigital

Well-known Member
My suggestion is not to connect your wired media playback devices through your router. Connect them to an multi-port network switch!
 
I really need some input here. Watching movies in HDR from an HDD or directly via my PC looks so bad. Picture looks completely lifeless, washed out blacks in every scene and dull sepia toned colors. Was really looking forward to seeing what HDR was all about.

Tried just about any setting, but can't get it to look as good as SDR on isf dark. Best I could manage was using cinema preset with Color Gamut on wide and brightness from 50 to 48. Also changed from Warm 2 to Medium.

Just watched Doctor Sleep in 4k HDR10 and the blacks was extremely elevated. Looked more grayish than black. The brightness is also very weird, using the recommended preset settings of 100 oled light and 100 contrast makes the image so bright that I got an headache.. My understanding was that HDR would be dimmer than SDR?

What's the deal here? Is it supposed to look like this?
 
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supermackem

Active Member
Sounds like your not sending a hdr signal to the tv, does the hdr banner appear in the top right when you play a film?. I’ve not used a pc on this tv yet so maybe there’s settings in windows you need to tweak as hdr is very good on the c9 with unreal black levels.
 

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