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LG OLED C8 owners and discussion

adbailey18

Well-known Member
I have a C8 and watch most content via Sky Q with no problems. The Sky Q box is connected to HDMI1 on the C8 via an HDMI cable (duh!). This must be what was meant by 'with Sky Q'. I can only think, assuming that both the Sky Q box and TV are okay, that it is the HDMI cable.
Sorry, maybe it was the way I worded it! Are you experiencing judder when using apps on the Q box, like Netflix? Or is it judder when watching TV channels?

If it's when your using TV apps (on the Q box) there is a setting called judder reduction in settings - setup - audio visual.
 

Jaberzi

Novice Member
Just made an account to post this as an FYI, I recently contacted LG and spoke to Jason about screen burn-in to summarize it looks like LG did the right thing and change warranty policy for OLED TV's to 4 years especially if you have an issue with burn-in. Im posting the feedback I received from LG here

We appreciate you for patiently coordinating with us regarding theissue of your LG OLED65C8PUA TV, John. It is our goal to ensure that you are able to utilize your LG product at its fullest potential so let us assist you with your inquiry today. In response to this, Burn-in and image retention are possible on virtually any display. However, with an LG OLED TV, any risk of burn-in or image retention has been addressed through the use of technology that not only helps protect against damage to the screen, but features self-healing properties so that any short-term image retention that may occur is quickly rectified. It is rare for an average TV consumer to create an environment that could result in burn-in. Most cases of burn-in in televisions are a result of static images or on-screen elements displaying on the screen uninterrupted for many hours or days at a time – with brightness typically at peak levels. So, it is possible to create image retention in almost any display if one really tries hard enough. And even if image retention does occur from extreme usage, it can usually be mitigated within a short period of time by turning the display off for a while, and watching a few hours of varying content (such as your standard TV watching and channel-surfing). Additionally, LG OLED TVs come with special features and settings to preserve image quality and prevent burn in and image retention.

First, there is a Screen Saver feature that will turn on automatically if the TV detects that a static image is displayed on screen after approximately two minutes. There are also three options (available in Menu setting > Picture settings > OLED panel settings) that can be used to preserve image quality. The first of these is the Clear Panel Noise feature that preserves the quality of the image on the display panel by resetting the TV so that it clears the pixels. This feature can be turned on when needed within the settings mentioned above. The second feature that can be employed is the Screen Shift feature which moves the screen slightly at regular intervals to preserve image quality. A third option is the Logo Luminance Adjustment, which can detect static logos on the screen and reduce brightness to help decrease permanent image retention.


Regarding our OLED warranty, we wish to assure you that your LG OLED TV screen is ensure for a courtesy repair for the first 4 year of purchase should a burn-in occur on the set. We will cover all parts and labor costs for your TV repair as long as we can confirm the issue is indeed a burn-in. The rest are covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. I hope that this deal of information is helpful in addressing your inquiry. Should you have further inquiries or clarifications in mind, please do let us know and we’ll be glad to help you out"
 

mrtickleuk

Well-known Member
Late to the party here. I've just got a C8, and a wonderful set it is too!

Quick audio question that I haven't found the answer to in this thread so far (466 pages is a lot to trawl through).
Welcome and well done, and thankyou thankyou for reading the thread first! If only more people would :)

[...]
Try this:
in the sound menu, change to Internal speaker only.
Then, turn "Dolby Atmos" ON. If it's already on, toggle it off then back on.
Then change back to Optical + Internal.
What you want to see is the Dolby Atmos setting set to "ON", even if it is greyed out.

So, make that two questions...

Is there a quick way to change the output from internal+optical to just optical when we want to watch a movie? Its rather laborious to have to go into the advanced menu to select optical only to get the DTS output.
Sadly not. But my solution is that I would just stay in "watch a movie" mode all the time, using your amp, never downgrading to the TV speakers.

Or, preferably, is there a setting to enable the internal+optical config to allow a proper DTS output on the optical so that no menu intervention is required when we decide to watch a movie with the amp on?
Which broadcast source is sending DTS in the first place, such that you want that DTS output to survive down the optical cable? I'm not aware of any service providing DTS sound.

But setting the format to "auto" would do it, if you could think of a way to test it.

Second. Is there any way to get YouTube app to send DTS/5.1 to the amp over optical.

Unless I'm missing something of course...
As already mentioned, YouTube does not support anything more than bog-standard, 2-channel, stereo, on ANY platform...

.... except for one or two very very hacked "test" streams people have uploaded. This is one I have saved from the past. But I can't get it to work in 5.1 today, so can't remember how I got it working on the C8.
NB: you can see from the comments that other people have confirmed it is not the normal 2-channel stereo you get on YouTube when you upload a 5.1 video. He managed to get his soundtrack to remain intact as 5.1 without the audio being re-encoded by YouTube to 2.0, which is what normally happens.

It's also (partly) where there are so many lying youtube videos up there, which say they are 5.1 etc - people think they are, but they get automatically down-mixed to 2.0 by YouTube when it re-encodes them after uploading. It's surprising that in this day and age, with YouTube promoting 4K and particularly HDR which looks wonderful, that on the audio side of things they are still in 1980.


 
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Nando10

Active Member
Does anybody out there have a virgin v6 box with the c8. If so what video output format are we supposed to have selected as I have noticed that we can tick all of them at the same time. Are we meant to have them all ticked is what im asking.
Thanks.
 

raymondo77

Distinguished Member
Looks like YouTube has been taking lessons from AVForums on appropriate ad sizes.

4BC7420F-E167-44B8-8CA3-0962CB91025E.jpeg
 

mrtickleuk

Well-known Member
Does anybody out there have a virgin v6 box with the c8. If so what video output format are we supposed to have selected as I have noticed that we can tick all of them at the same time. Are we meant to have them all ticked is what im asking.
Thanks.
If you would please post a picture of this screen, then loads of us could help you, not just people that also have the same combination of TV and STB! :)
 

Goonerdude

Well-known Member
Does anybody out there have a virgin v6 box with the c8. If so what video output format are we supposed to have selected as I have noticed that we can tick all of them at the same time. Are we meant to have them all ticked is what im asking.
Thanks.
Tick up to 1080i then let the C8 do the upscaling that gives the best picture on my E8 for SDR broadcast stuff.
 

mrtickleuk

Well-known Member
Tick up to 1080i then let the C8 do the upscaling that gives the best picture on my E8 for SDR broadcast stuff.
Yep. That would be for any broadcasts, and I agree :)

However, we also need to remember that it offers real, proper, 4K HDR from BBC iPlayer on that hardware (at least, there could be others).
So you need to tell it that your TV can do 2160p resolution, AND whatever is hidden at the top of the list (there's a little ^^ arrow on the top-right of the list indicating that there's something on the line above 2160p I can't see).

If you untick 2160p (and above), it'll degrade the quality of 4K HDR from BBC iPlayer and scale it DOWN! :)

In general, if you tick fewer options, you will be telling the Virgin box to do scaling. It's very unlikely to do a better job than the TV.

Also, since Virgin supports HDR from iPlayer, definitely make sure picture settings/additional settings/HDMI Ultra HD Deep Colour is turned on for that HDMI input.

Test using an episode of "Seven Worlds, One Planet" on the Virgin TiVo's iplayer (not the TV's one), make sure you select the "UHD" versions, and check it switched the TV into HDR mode (you will get the pop-up "toast" in the corner of the screen).

To check what resolution the incoming HDMI signal from the Virgin Box is sending to the TV, waggle the remote to get the input label up, and then click on the label to show the "big" version with all the info.

First click:
HDMI click 1.jpg


Second click showing 1080i resolution:
HDMI click 2.jpg

HTH
 

Goonerdude

Well-known Member
I totally agree with you but l only use my V6 for SDR content basically freeview stuff. Any 4K stuff via other devices & Amazon, Netflix, iPlayer via the inbuilt TV apps. :thumbsup:
 

mrtickleuk

Well-known Member
Of course - easy to forget (and I did when I wrote it!) - it's not going to be better than our own internal apps in any of those cases above. Except perhaps in the far distant future if they aren't updated and the external counterparts are :)
 

Nando10

Active Member
Of course - easy to forget (and I did when I wrote it!) - it's not going to be better than our own internal apps in any of those cases above. Except perhaps in the far distant future if they aren't updated and the external counterparts are :)
So for all programs HDR,HD, and SD content would i be better to tick them all.
 

Numpty112233

Active Member
Very late to this party
I don't actually have a C8.... but I do have a 65B8 and a 65E8 (as well as a 55C6)
Great tellys but can anyone advise on motion judder. It's been annoying me a bit for some time, however when watching Chernobyl last night (BluRay on Panasonic DP-UB820) on the E865 the slow scan across the towerblocks had really bad judder.
Can anyone advise on settings etc please?
Sorry if this has been posted before but there's 560 pages to read through...
Cheers
 

iangreasby

Active Member
Very late to this party
I don't actually have a C8.... but I do have a 65B8 and a 65E8 (as well as a 55C6)
Great tellys but can anyone advise on motion judder. It's been annoying me a bit for some time, however when watching Chernobyl last night (BluRay on Panasonic DP-UB820) on the E865 the slow scan across the towerblocks had really bad judder.
Can anyone advise on settings etc please?
Sorry if this has been posted before but there's 560 pages to read through...
Cheers
This issue interests me as well. I have the B8 65 and a cheaper 65" LCD. I have checked both TVs and they both show very similar effects with camera panning. I'm not sure it is "judder" as such, but I do often find it a bit distracting, particularly during action movies. Sport is normally fine. From what I've read, even more expensive TVs will still have this issue, to varying degrees. I think larger screen sizes will make this more apparent. It can be eliminated by turning on motion processing, but this will inevitably result in "soap opera effect" which to me looks very unnatural, almost as if the action is taking place underwater.
 

jwsg

Well-known Member
I believe its what Rtings calls stutter Stutter of TVs and is noticeable on panning over low-frame rate content on OLEDs. I wish it didn't happen but Ive found no alternative to just trying to ignore it when it crops up.

Judder might be used to describe where there is an inconsistency between source and display framerates that happens when a device is misconfigured or something is wrong with the stream etc,
 

mrtickleuk

Well-known Member
So for all programs HDR,HD, and SD content would i be better to tick them all.
Yes, NB it's only if the Virgin box doesn't try to upscale everything to 4K. It will certainly do a worse job of upscaling than the TV would - hence checking what signal is going to the TV when you watch different content.
Eg. Record something from BBC1 HD, and check that the box sends just HD resolution to the TV.

If the box is doing upscaling, and you never watch 4K content from it, the easiest way to get around that problem is to tell it you only have a HD TV (nothing above 1080p) and then the TV will get to do the upscaling. But it might be well-behaved and not scale, or it might have an option to not scale in a different menu.
NB: HDR works at all resolutions, even SD, it's not just for 4K, so you can still leave the "HDMI Ultra HD Deep Colour" option turned on without if affecting it.
 
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Numpty112233

Active Member
I believe its what Rtings calls stutter Stutter of TVs and is noticeable on panning over low-frame rate content on OLEDs. I wish it didn't happen but Ive found no alternative to just trying to ignore it when it crops up.

Judder might be used to describe where there is an inconsistency between source and display framerates that happens when a device is misconfigured or something is wrong with the stream etc,
Yes - it seems I am referring to "stutter" rather than "judder"
Thank you for that link which was interesting and had me googling "Chernobyl Blu-Ray frame rate" which explained much... or would do to a non Numpty...
Appreciated
 

mrtickleuk

Well-known Member
Very late to this party
I don't actually have a C8.... but I do have a 65B8 and a 65E8 (as well as a 55C6)
Great tellys but can anyone advise on motion judder. It's been annoying me a bit for some time, however when watching Chernobyl last night (BluRay on Panasonic DP-UB820) on the E865 the slow scan across the towerblocks had really bad judder.
Can anyone advise on settings etc please?
The key baseline thing is to ensure "Real Cinema" is always on so that the TV takes the incoming 24fps and shows each frame exactly 5 times (it is a 120Hz panel). If you do not do this, you'll get a mess. This might be the cause of your stutter. If it's greyed out, it means you can't use it for that particular signal. Also check that the blu-ray player is definitely outputting a 24Hz signal when playing back a movie, it might need a setting turned on to do this. See my posts yesterday for how to check on the TV end :)

Beyond that, interpolation of motion judder is inherent in the fact that 24fps is a bit low, I now see it in the cinema too when watching projected movies! Higher frame-rates have been experimented with, but look absolutely awful and audiences hate them. The last experiment, "Gemini man", bombed badly. People hate seeing footage that looks like behind-the-scenes rehearsal footage with actors on the set of a movie. We want to see the "world" of the movie, and a lot of that comes from the dreamy "look" you get with 24fps that we've had a lifetime getting used to.

So you need to try what values of TruMotion look right to YOU. We all see motion differently, there is no single "correct" set of settings for Picture Settings / Picture options/ TruMotion Custom.

["Custom"]: De-Judder is used for 24Hz content. Controls frames that are added. Everyone can find their happy medium. Too high will produce the Soap Opera Effect.
["Custom"]: De-Blur is used for 50Hz/60Hz content. Without corrections to 50/60Hz material, fluid motion can sometimes look blurred. This sharpens it back up.

The settings are saved per picture mode and per input.

HTH, let us know if you find anything that fixes it!
 

Numpty112233

Active Member
The key baseline thing is to ensure "Real Cinema" is always on so that the TV takes the incoming 24fps and shows each frame exactly 5 times (it is a 120Hz panel). If you do not do this, you'll get a mess. This might be the cause of your stutter. If it's greyed out, it means you can't use it for that particular signal. Also check that the blu-ray player is definitely outputting a 24Hz signal when playing back a movie, it might need a setting turned on to do this. See my posts yesterday for how to check on the TV end :)

Beyond that, interpolation of motion judder is inherent in the fact that 24fps is a bit low, I now see it in the cinema too when watching projected movies! Higher frame-rates have been experimented with, but look absolutely awful and audiences hate them. The last experiment, "Gemini man", bombed badly. People hate seeing footage that looks like behind-the-scenes rehearsal footage with actors on the set of a movie. We want to see the "world" of the movie, and a lot of that comes from the dreamy "look" you get with 24fps that we've had a lifetime getting used to.

So you need to try what values of TruMotion look right to YOU. We all see motion differently, there is no single "correct" set of settings for TruMotion Custom.

["Custom"]: De-Judder is used for 24Hz content. Controls frames that are added. Everyone can find their happy medium. Too high will produce the Soap Opera Effect.
["Custom"]: De-Blur is used for 50Hz/60Hz content. Without corrections to 50/60Hz material, fluid motion can sometimes look blurred. This sharpens it back up.

HTH
How would I find the "real Cinema" setting?
Just turned on the tv (in tv freesat mode) and screen setting options included "cinema". I normally use "expert (dark room)"
Edit - Just checked and when in "cinema" the setting has "real cinema" on. Therefore advice is to change from "expert (dark room)" - which I had previously picked up on here as the setting to use - to "cinema" when watching all or some bluray & 4k?
Cheers
 
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mrtickleuk

Well-known Member
How would I find the "real Cinema" setting?
Just turned on the tv (in tv freesat mode) and screen setting options included "cinema". I normally use "expert (dark room)"
Cool, that's good. You seek accuracy then :)
Sorry for missing out key detail :) . Real Cinema is one of the settings that it's in every mode. "Cinema" is one of the Picture modes overall.

Real Cinema is in the same Picture options menu that TruMotion is in .

For a high-quality source, such as disc I would use (personal opinions follow - may as well paste in the whole gumph I wrote for a friend):
Energy Saving off
Aspect ratio Original
Just scan On
Eye Comfort Mode Off
Screen shift On
Logo Luminance Adjustment High (personal taste, but protects against image retention. Low/High only adjust the speed it fades around logos etc.

Contrast=85
Brightness should be 50, but you need to tweak for your panel perhaps with tests.
Sharpness: personal taste (0 is neutral, 10 gives edge smoothing, >10 adds sharpness)
Colour=50
Tint=0

Expert Controls
Dynamic contrast (Off/Low/Med/High) = Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping (HDR10 / HLG only) = Off is accurate/Personal taste. Some overly dark HDR games may benefit.
Super Resolution (Off/Low/Med/High) = Off
Colour gamut (Auto/Extended/Wide) = Auto
White Balance/CMS are panel-specific and should not be shared. But see below for colour temp.

Picture options
Noise reduction = Off
MPEG noise reduction [2018: required for Smooth Gradation/De-contouring filter] (Off/Low/Med/High/Auto) = Low or Off, personal taste
MPEG noise reduction [2019: (Off/Low/Med/High/Auto) = personal taste, can remove picture detail
Smooth Gradation [2019 on]: Personal taste, can remove picture detail
Black level (only for RGB signals) = Low for video content, High for 0-255 content if using a PC's desktop. Try for Auto.
Real Cinema = On if it's not greyed. Detect movie content within an interlaced signal, and output correctly at exactly 24Hz.
Motion Eye Care = Off
TruMotion: very personal taste. I have it Off, but things can look juddery sometimes.
TruMotion-Custom: De-Judder [for 24Hz] Controls frames that are added. Everyone can find their happy medium. Too high will produce the Soap Opera Effect.
TruMotion-Custom: De-Blur [for 50/60Hz] Without corrections to 50/60Hz material, fluid motion will look blurred. This sharpens it back up.


Additional Settings
Eye Comfort Mode (for late night "remove blue" to help you sleep viewing) = Off

Per-mode settings
OLED Light. A=35 B=50 C=25. Defaults are MUCH too bright. 35 gives 120nits. SDR Content is mastered for 100nits. Higher values for a very bright room but increased risk of burn-in the higher you go.

Expert Controls
Gamma (BT.1886/2.4/2.2/1.9). "night settings"=BT.1886/2.4. "Day settings"=2.2. Using 2.4 is the accurate setting and gives more "pop" but needs to be in a proper dark room for shadow detail. Hence using 2.2 for daytime.
Colour temp (Cool/ Medium/ Warm1/ Warm2/ Warm3). =>Warm2. This is accurate. Allow a few days to get accustomed to it.

HTH :)

ps. The "basic" picture modes don't have "Expert Controls" menu, instead they have a noddy menu replacing it called "Advanced Controls". with cut-down options.
 

Numpty112233

Active Member
Cool, that's good. You seek accuracy then :)
Sorry for missing out key detail :) . Real Cinema is one of the settings that it's in every mode. "Cinema" is one of the Picture modes overall.

Real Cinema is in the same Picture options menu that TruMotion is in .

For a high-quality source, such as disc I would use (personal opinions follow - may as well paste in the whole gumph I wrote for a friend):
Energy Saving off
Aspect ratio Original
Just scan On
Eye Comfort Mode Off
Screen shift On
Logo Luminance Adjustment High (personal taste, but protects against image retention. Low/High only adjust the speed it fades around logos etc.

Contrast=85
Brightness should be 50, but you need to tweak for your panel perhaps with tests.
Sharpness: personal taste (0 is neutral, 10 gives edge smoothing, >10 adds sharpness)
Colour=50
Tint=0

Expert Controls
Dynamic contrast (Off/Low/Med/High) = Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping (HDR10 / HLG only) = Off is accurate/Personal taste. Some overly dark HDR games may benefit.
Super Resolution (Off/Low/Med/High) = Off
Colour gamut (Auto/Extended/Wide) = Auto
White Balance/CMS are panel-specific and should not be shared. But see below for colour temp.

Picture options
Noise reduction = Off
MPEG noise reduction [2018: required for Smooth Gradation/De-contouring filter] (Off/Low/Med/High/Auto) = Low or Off, personal taste
MPEG noise reduction [2019: (Off/Low/Med/High/Auto) = personal taste, can remove picture detail
Smooth Gradation [2019 on]: Personal taste, can remove picture detail
Black level (only for RGB signals) = Low for video content, High for 0-255 content if using a PC's desktop. Try for Auto.
Real Cinema = On if it's not greyed. Detect movie content within an interlaced signal, and output correctly at exactly 24Hz.
Motion Eye Care = Off
TruMotion: very personal taste. I have it Off, but things can look juddery sometimes.
TruMotion-Custom: De-Judder [for 24Hz] Controls frames that are added. Everyone can find their happy medium. Too high will produce the Soap Opera Effect.
TruMotion-Custom: De-Blur [for 50/60Hz] Without corrections to 50/60Hz material, fluid motion will look blurred. This sharpens it back up.


Additional Settings
Eye Comfort Mode (for late night "remove blue" to help you sleep viewing) = Off

Per-mode settings
OLED Light. A=35 B=50 C=25. Defaults are MUCH too bright. 35 gives 120nits. SDR Content is mastered for 100nits. Higher values for a very bright room but increased risk of burn-in the higher you go.

Expert Controls
Gamma (BT.1886/2.4/2.2/1.9). "night settings"=BT.1886/2.4. "Day settings"=2.2. Using 2.4 is the accurate setting and gives more "pop" but needs to be in a proper dark room for shadow detail. Hence using 2.2 for daytime.
Colour temp (Cool/ Medium/ Warm1/ Warm2/ Warm3). =>Warm2. This is accurate. Allow a few days to get accustomed to it.

HTH :)

ps. The "basic" picture modes don't have "Expert Controls" menu, instead they have a noddy menu replacing it called "Advanced Controls". with cut-down options.
Thank you Sir. Will wade through these. Just to note when watching this screen I do so in complete darkness (the room has no windows)
 

jwsg

Well-known Member
@jwsg May I ask what TV you have?
C8
This 24fps stutter I just try to ignore. For TV apps I do have Trumotion on with both sliders left to reduce the lipsync error over ARC But the one irritant that needs an upgrade to fix is the 8 bit RGB limit of 4K/60 causing banding in-game esp. with HDR - that needs HDMI 2.1 and GPUs / receivers that dont yet exist
 

mrtickleuk

Well-known Member
C8
This 24fps stutter I just try to ignore. For TV apps I do have Trumotion on with both sliders left to reduce the lipsync error over ARC But the one irritant that needs an upgrade to fix is the 8 bit RGB limit of 4K/60 causing banding in-game esp. with HDR - that needs HDMI 2.1 and GPUs / receivers that dont yet exist
Yep. For this reason, you're often better off using the 12-bit 4:2:2 mode that the PS4 uses for its 4K60 content. Even if it's only sending 8bit or 10bit data in that 12-bit container, you get less banding than shooting for pure RGB.
 

jwsg

Well-known Member
I wish Nvidia / Windows would allow easy switching of chroma etc settings as I cant bear Windows use unless in 444 with PC label (ISF expert which unlocks the colour gamut) but as you say gaming/videos would be fine in 422

Worse still, that input is for a receiver and is shared with an ATV 4K and as the C8 doesnt seem to respect 10bit 422 in PC label so you still see banding on SDR and HDR10 content

Luckily Input label switching is fairly quick plus a little known C8 feature is that you get another set of picture settings in PC label - so you can have one label and picture settings for the ATV for videos and the PC label optimsied for PC - not a very common setup I expect

When I originally wired things up I didnt know the C8 could re-compress PCM/MAT via HDMI to DD+ over ARC so I could have connected the ATV directly to the TV after all. But as I get lipsync probs over ARC and I dont like the idea of the ATV uncompressing DD+, then the C8 re-compressing it, and then the receiver uncompressing it again, I've left the ATV connected via the receiver. We're getting an ATV app this year anyway.
 

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