Question LG B7/C7 Calibration

mjbtin

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Had the tv for a few weeks now and thinking of calibrating WB for sdr and hdr not bothering with the CMS.Have calibrated a few tvs but this will be my first oled.This is what have to use.
Xrite i1 Pro
HCFR software
AVS rec709 (sdr)
R Masciola usb(hdr)

Any tips pointers would be much appreciated.

Martin
 
I watched this thread in the hope that someone more knowledgeable would comment first. However, its very quiet in here so I thought I'd give my 2 cents in the hope that someone shoots me down or corrects me so I can improve for my next attempt.

I based my first go at calibrating my E7 on bits and bobs I picked up from the 2017 OLED calibration thread on AVS Forums but it took at least a week to get through that thread and most of the time you have very knowledgeable people sharing very useful information between themselves that seemed like another language to me. In the end, I never managed to source a simple step be step to DIY calibrating on the cheap (i.e. not Calman)

I think your equipment should be fine, at least I used similar. I have only had a go at SDR so far but used an i1Display pro and a Chromecast to transmit the internal patterns. I have heard that MobileForge is a good app for Firesticks but I don't know if it is Calman specific.

First off is the brightness and contrast set using the flashing white and black patterns. I stuck with the default (contrast 85, brightness 50) but some have had to tweak brightness a bit, and others have quite different settings used in conjunction with an extended colour gamut.

HCFR has a WOLED specific profile for the i1Display Pro so its pretty easy to get going. Apparently you should look at the 2 point WB first and adjust only the upper setting, and I think only downwards (not sure if that applies to RGB and/or luminance as I didn't do this step but intend to next time)

Then do the 20 point. I tried to correct RGB errors first and then the luminance values to reach my target gamma.

I was targeting 2.2 for day viewing and 2.4 for night, so looking for a straight line. Not really sure what I would look for if targeting BT.1886, but I believe it is similar to 2.4.

I know you said you weren't bothered about CMS but apparently you can safely use the CMS within a few notches on the 2017 OLEDs in SDR mode. I found this a bit of a lottery as I wasn't really sure when it was best to play with saturation, tint or luminance. However, I ended up with pretty good deltaEs and the image look (a) pretty good and (b) improved on the OOB settings.

For HDR, although I haven't tried it myself, it sounds like you have the best disc available. Apparently you shouldn't need to do much more than tweak the 2 point as HDR is pretty good OOB.

Dolby Vision is a no go unless you have Calman and an expensive pattern generator.

It would be great if some of the other 2017 OLED owners who have had a go at DIY calibration could pitch in and put me right. @Parry @raymondo77
 
Thankyou sir
I also went through the avs thread and ended up being more confused than before I read it:laugh:
When you did the 2pt WB did you use 30/70 or 20/80?
Good to know you perceived some improvement.

Martin
 
Glad it wasn't just me then! Didn't do the 2 point last time so not sure.
 
I watched this thread in the hope that someone more knowledgeable would comment first. However, its very quiet in here so I thought I'd give my 2 cents in the hope that someone shoots me down or corrects me so I can improve for my next attempt.

I based my first go at calibrating my E7 on bits and bobs I picked up from the 2017 OLED calibration thread on AVS Forums but it took at least a week to get through that thread and most of the time you have very knowledgeable people sharing very useful information between themselves that seemed like another language to me. In the end, I never managed to source a simple step be step to DIY calibrating on the cheap (i.e. not Calman)

I think your equipment should be fine, at least I used similar. I have only had a go at SDR so far but used an i1Display pro and a Chromecast to transmit the internal patterns. I have heard that MobileForge is a good app for Firesticks but I don't know if it is Calman specific.

First off is the brightness and contrast set using the flashing white and black patterns. I stuck with the default (contrast 85, brightness 50) but some have had to tweak brightness a bit, and others have quite different settings used in conjunction with an extended colour gamut.

HCFR has a WOLED specific profile for the i1Display Pro so its pretty easy to get going. Apparently you should look at the 2 point WB first and adjust only the upper setting, and I think only downwards (not sure if that applies to RGB and/or luminance as I didn't do this step but intend to next time)

Then do the 20 point. I tried to correct RGB errors first and then the luminance values to reach my target gamma.

I was targeting 2.2 for day viewing and 2.4 for night, so looking for a straight line. Not really sure what I would look for if targeting BT.1886, but I believe it is similar to 2.4.

I know you said you weren't bothered about CMS but apparently you can safely use the CMS within a few notches on the 2017 OLEDs in SDR mode. I found this a bit of a lottery as I wasn't really sure when it was best to play with saturation, tint or luminance. However, I ended up with pretty good deltaEs and the image look (a) pretty good and (b) improved on the OOB settings.

For HDR, although I haven't tried it myself, it sounds like you have the best disc available. Apparently you shouldn't need to do much more than tweak the 2 point as HDR is pretty good OOB.

Dolby Vision is a no go unless you have Calman and an expensive pattern generator.

It would be great if some of the other 2017 OLED owners who have had a go at DIY calibration could pitch in and put me right. @Parry @raymondo77
Sounds good pal, I would Zero any CMS adjustments as I have used one of ConnecTEDD calibration disk test patterns for colour gradient and its shows problems with any adjustments to CMS even as low as 1 or 2 clicks .
I don’t use HCFR so don’t know if it does BT1886 sliding scale calibration but on chromapure I can set bt1886 black level and peak brightness which then gives you a gamma curve which starts at 2.3 at 5% and rises to 2.4 at 100% .
I found this to be the best gamma for my set as it showed more detail in the blacks
 
Thankyou sir
I also went through the avs thread and ended up being more confused than before I read it:laugh:
When you did the 2pt WB did you use 30/70 or 20/80?
Good to know you perceived some improvement.

Martin
You can use 2 pt high for SDR but only subtract don’t add.
Don’t use 2 pt low .
I only use 20pt for my calibrations now .
Makes no difference if you use 70-80 it’s only for a quick read and you will still need to read all 21 pts to get the best adjustments.
 
Thanks for reply.
For WB did you use 10% windows.
For HDR 2pt WB does the same apply ie only adjusting the high and not subtracting?

Martin
 
Thanks for reply.
For WB did you use 10% windows.
For HDR 2pt WB does the same apply ie only adjusting the high and not subtracting?

Martin
10% patterns should be about right. That's size is generally what's recommended by the experienced (with OLED) pro calibrators, or close to it.

With regards to HDR WB adjustment, stick with the 20 point controls only. You'll only want to adjust up to 70% stimulus as response will plateau above that so you'll find it hard to make any improvements.

For general calibration, use the RGB controls to adjust the luminance value for each stimulus point. It'll take a bit longer but the Luminance controls can introduce issues.

Be prepared to get frustrated with ABL/ ASBL too, as you'll be experiencing it a lot. When it does occur, just skip forwards a few patterns to 'reset' the screen and continue to measure. Or, get it close and use the charts to adjust the various values. I.e. if the full WB sweep chart shows that there's a little too much blue at 70% stimulus, remove a click or two of blue from that point and do another sweep. This may seem long winded but I find it's usually quicker than continuously measuring each point whilst adjusting it, due to the effects of ABL/ ASBL.

Paul
 
Thanks for reply.
For WB did you use 10% windows.
For HDR 2pt WB does the same apply ie only adjusting the high and not subtracting?

Martin
Yes 10% Windows.
I did not find the problems with SDR 2pt in HDR.
2pt works very well with in HDR on the 2017 sets .
 
Done a quick calibration yesterday after having tv on for an hour and warming up the meter.This tv is the most accurate ootb i have ever had so much so that I didnt even do a 20pt on any of the 3 picture modes.
Just done the WB 2pt high and only subtracting on the isf dark and bright ,ended up with de all under 1 for the dark and all but 2 under 1 for the bright:smashin:
Hdr was easy to bring into line with the 2pt WB using both high and low:)

Thanks for all your help and guidance guys:clap:

Regards Martin
 
Done a quick calibration yesterday after having tv on for an hour and warming up the meter.This tv is the most accurate ootb i have ever had so much so that I didnt even do a 20pt on any of the 3 picture modes.
Just done the WB 2pt high and only subtracting on the isf dark and bright ,ended up with de all under 1 for the dark and all but 2 under 1 for the bright:smashin:
Hdr was easy to bring into line with the 2pt WB using both high and low:)

Thanks for all your help and guidance guys:clap:

Regards Martin
What about gamma ? Did you use luminance controls? They work great on 2017 sets .
 
What about gamma ? Did you use luminance controls? They work great on 2017 sets .
Gamma avg 2.42 dark and 2.2 bright.
Just used the rgb controls,didnt use the luminance controls as I did not know the tv had them or how to use them?

Martin
 
Gamma avg 2.42 dark and 2.2 bright.
Just used the rgb controls,didnt use the luminance controls as I did not know the tv had them or how to use them?

Martin
As you done it RGB now there no point doing it again with luminance controls.
But for your reference each ire has it’s own luminance control which you add or subtract just as you did with each rgb , Benifit is you adjust one control per ire instead of 3 rgb .
 
Done a quick calibration yesterday after having tv on for an hour and warming up the meter.This tv is the most accurate ootb i have ever had so much so that I didnt even do a 20pt on any of the 3 picture modes.
Just done the WB 2pt high and only subtracting on the isf dark and bright ,ended up with de all under 1 for the dark and all but 2 under 1 for the bright:smashin:
Hdr was easy to bring into line with the 2pt WB using both high and low:)
This is probably one for @Parry - is it usually this quick to calibrate the 2017 panels? As you know, it takes hours with the 2016 models to get a good result. Or what I'd class as a good result anyway.

It seems like the approach is somewhat different between the two model years too, with the controls being much more useful on the 2017 panels.

Paul
 
This is probably one for @Parry - is it usually this quick to calibrate the 2017 panels? As you know, it takes hours with the 2016 models to get a good result. Or what I'd class as a good result anyway.

It seems like the approach is somewhat different between the two model years too, with the controls being much more useful on the 2017 panels.

Paul
Not familiar with the 2016 oleds but the c7 after setting the basic settings looked very accurate by eye.Putting the meter on and measuring confirmed what I thought with only 2 of the ire measuring above de 3.After calibrating the dark and bright isf using the 2pt wb high and only subtracting gave me better results than other tvs ive calibrated using 2pt and 10/20pt.
I could have got the wb more accurate using the 20pt but with the de I had that wasnt needed.
Dont know if all the 2017 7 oled are this good ootb but if they are must make calibration much quicker/easier.

Martin
 

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