LG B8 OLED - Owners and Discussion Thread

MonkeyBoy

Active Member
Each input and each HDR mode will have to be set up individually when you have that signal being played e.g. you will need to be playing Jack Ryan on Amazon and get the Dolby Vision flag in the corner, then go through these settings.

With regards the Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) Settings, I can post my settings but as everyone will say on here, they are slightly different for every panel and firmware version, so they may make your picture worse but that’s for you to judge.

Here are my settings, but again you will need to set them up on each input, so play the input you want to setup like Sky in your case, then change the settings.

Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) Settings

Picture
Aspect Ratio Settings > Original > Just Scan: On​
Energy Saving: Off​
Additional Settings > HDMI Ultra HD Deep Colour: On​
OLED Panel Settings
Pixel Refresher (will attempt to clear any image retention)
Screen Shift: On​
Logo Luminance Adjustment: Low​
Picture Mode
ISF Expert (Dark Room) - Dark room with LEDs and one light
Picture Mode Settings
OLED Light: 30​
Contrast: 84 (AVS HD 709 Contrast Calibration on YouTube App)
Brightness: 51 (Amp set using black bars on Blu-ray and Apps set using 00 black on the YouTube App)
Sharpness: 10​
Colour: 54 (AVS HD 709 Flashing Colour Bars on YouTube App with blue filter)
Tint: 0 (AVS HD 709 Flashing Colour Bars on YouTube App with blue filter)
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast: Off​
Super Resolution: Off​
Colour Gamut: Auto​
Colour Filter: Off (Red, Green and Blue)
Gamma: 2.2​
White Balance (Use same settings for all HDR modes)
Colour Temperature: Warm2​
Picture Options
Noise Reduction: Off​
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off​
Black Level: Low​
Real Cinema: On​
Motion Eye Care: Off​
TruMotion: Off​
Motion Pro: Off​
 
Last edited:

Glen1977

Active Member
Just to check my eyes aren’t deceiving me... are all Amazon Prime and Netflix programs in ‘4K’ still downgraded and not showing in full picture quality? If yes any idea when it’ll all be back to normal?
 

Goooner

Distinguished Member
They, well Netflix, initially said for 30 days, which would put us around the end of next week. Don’t recall anyone else outing a timeframe on it.

We’ll have to see what actually happens, they could either realise it’s not actually necessary and go back to what it was before, or decide “hey, nobody’s really complaining too much, it’s costing us a whole lot less, so more profit, let’s leave it as it is”.

Much prefer the way YouTube have done it, lowering the default resolution but allowing you to up it if you want to.
 

Glen1977

Active Member
They, well Netflix, initially said for 30 days, which would put us around the end of next week. Don’t recall anyone else outing a timeframe on it.

We’ll have to see what actually happens, they could either realise it’s not actually necessary and go back to what it was before, or decide “hey, nobody’s really complaining too much, it’s costing us a whole lot less, so more profit, let’s leave it as it is”.

Much prefer the way YouTube have done it, lowering the default resolution but allowing you to up it if you want to.
Thanks. So how come Disney+ haven’t downgraded considering they’re brand new and have a massive subscription base? It’ll be suicide for the other 2 not to get back to full 4K soon otherwise they could see a drop in customers or certainly demanding a cut to prices.
 

Goooner

Distinguished Member
Disney have downgraded, haven’t they? I thought I’d read 4K was now 1440p rather than 2180p and Atmos is not actually Atmos.
 

MonkeyBoy

Active Member
“In anticipation of high consumer demand for Disney Plus, we are proactively instituting measures to lower our overall bandwidth utilization by at least 25% in all of the markets launching Disney Plus,” Disney’s Kevin Mayer said in a statement
 

MonkeyBoy

Active Member
I take from that it would be the bandwidth and not the resolution that would be hit, ie it would still be 4k Dolby Vision but the bitrate would be cut by 25% so it would look more blocky I guess.
 

SeeMoreDigital

Well-known Member
Disney have downgraded, haven’t they? I thought I’d read 4K was now 1440p rather than 2180p and Atmos is not actually Atmos.
I take from that it would be the bandwidth and not the resolution that would be hit, ie it would still be 4k Dolby Vision but the bitrate would be cut by 25% so it would look more blocky I guess.
If you watch something with black bars (mattes) above and below the image, you can see that where the edges meet they are blurred, instead of razor sharp. This suggests that the images have indeed been re-sized...

By-the-way... Dolby Vision works quite happily at [2k] 1920x1080 resolutions...
 

Raidevita

Active Member
How accurate are the you tube avs calibration videos? I tried them last night & was quite amazed that 98 is indeed the contract level. Seems high. Is it ok to have the contrast so high?
I was watching the 4k HDR version of revenge of the sith last night, which seemed quite dark to me. Calibrated the settings using AVS HDR in you tube & it still seems dark. If I raise the brightness it starts to look washed out. But 50 does show the correct level for brightness on the AVS videos. Is this the black crush everyone's talking about? Anyway round it?

Each input and each HDR mode will have to be set up individually when you have that signal being played e.g. you will need to be playing Jack Ryan on Amazon and get the Dolby Vision flag in the corner, then go through these settings.

With regards the Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) Settings, I can post my settings but as everyone will say on here, they are slightly different for every panel and firmware version, so they may make your picture worse but that’s for you to judge.

Here are my settings, but again you will need to set them up on each input, so play the input you want to setup like Sky in your case, then change the settings.

Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) Settings

Picture
Aspect Ratio Settings > Original > Just Scan: On​
Energy Saving: Off​
Additional Settings > HDMI Ultra HD Deep Colour: On​
OLED Panel Settings
Pixel Refresher (will attempt to clear any image retention)
Screen Shift: On​
Logo Luminance Adjustment: Low​
Picture Mode
ISF Expert (Dark Room) - Dark room with LEDs and one light
Picture Mode Settings
OLED Light: 30​
Contrast: 98 (AVS HD 709 Contrast Calibration on YouTube App)
Brightness: 51 (Amp set using black bars on Blu-ray and Apps set using 00 black on the YouTube App)
Sharpness: 10​
Colour: 54 (AVS HD 709 Flashing Colour Bars on YouTube App with blue filter)
Tint: 0 (AVS HD 709 Flashing Colour Bars on YouTube App with blue filter)
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast: Off​
Super Resolution: Off​
Colour Gamut: Auto​
Colour Filter: Off (Red, Green and Blue)
Gamma: 2.2​
White Balance (Use same settings for all HDR modes)
Colour Temperature: Warm2​
Picture Options
Noise Reduction: Off​
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off​
Black Level: Low​
Real Cinema: On​
Motion Eye Care: Off​
TruMotion: Off​
Motion Pro: Off​
 

MonkeyBoy

Active Member
How accurate are the you tube avs calibration videos? I tried them last night & was quite amazed that 98 is indeed the contract level. Seems high. Is it ok to have the contrast so high?
I was watching the 4k HDR version of revenge of the sith last night, which seemed quite dark to me. Calibrated the settings using AVS HDR in you tube & it still seems dark. If I raise the brightness it starts to look washed out. But 50 does show the correct level for brightness on the AVS videos. Is this the black crush everyone's talking about? Anyway round it?
I only use the AVS for the SDR, with HDR I use real footage as that's what I am going to be viewing with the settings.

Remember that the OLED Light setting is the "brightness of the panel" and its set really low for a darkish room if you are watching in the day with the sun beaming in you may need to bump the OLED light up or setup yourself a nice ISF Expert (Light Room) setup, Contrast and Brightness are really just the the Black and White level settings.

With regards how accurate the the AVS are I would say they get you 90% there if you don't have any equipment to test with, when I do the settings I have to room 100% blacked out and have my face a few feet from the screen.

I cannot comment about the AVS HDR as I have never used them, but remember to turn off Dynamic Tone Mapping when setting up HDR and that you are in the correct HDR format, because you may have setup HDR10 using YouTube test cards and then you watched Star Wars in Dolby Vision on Disney+, the setting are not the shared over both formats.

Also if you watched Star Wars on one of the HDMI inputs in HDR10 remember that the internal apps are considered a separate input and they will both need to be set up separably, this is the same for each HDMI input also.

Hope that all makes sense.
 

MonkeyBoy

Active Member
If you manually wanted to setup all of the formats on each of the inputs on the TV you would need to do x23 setups, in the real world I would not think you would be using all of the formats on each input so you could delete as applicable.

There is an option to apply this setting to all inputs but you will find it only works with about half the settings, so you would need to go through and double check the correct settings are applied to the each input.

I also found that if you are using a games 4k console (Xbox) the SDR settings will not be the same as the setting for the other SDR devices.

HDMI 1
SDR
HLG
HDR10
Dolby Vision

HDMI 2
SDR
HLG
HDR10
Dolby Vision

HDMI 3
SDR
HLG
HDR10
Dolby Vision

HDMI 4
SDR
HLG
HDR10
Dolby Vision

Internal Apps (Amazon Prime TV App, YouTube TV App)
SDR
HLG
HDR10
Dolby Vision

Internal Video player (this is easy to miss if you are watching NAS streamed videos)
SDR
HLG
HDR10
 

Raidevita

Active Member
I only use the AVS for the SDR, with HDR I use real footage as that's what I am going to be viewing with the settings.

Remember that the OLED Light setting is the "brightness of the panel" and its set really low for a darkish room if you are watching in the day with the sun beaming in you may need to bump the OLED light up or setup yourself a nice ISF Expert (Light Room) setup, Contrast and Brightness are really just the the Black and White level settings.

With regards how accurate the the AVS are I would say they get you 90% there if you don't have any equipment to test with, when I do the settings I have to room 100% blacked out and have my face a few feet from the screen.

I cannot comment about the AVS HDR as I have never used them, but remember to turn off Dynamic Tone Mapping when setting up HDR and that you are in the correct HDR format, because you may have setup HDR10 using YouTube test cards and then you watched Star Wars in Dolby Vision on Disney+, the setting are not the shared over both formats.

Also if you watched Star Wars on one of the HDMI inputs in HDR10 remember that the internal apps are considered a separate input and they will both need to be set up separably, this is the same for each HDMI input also.

Hope that all makes sense.
Ok thanks. I ranked up dynamic contrast to high on the stars wars hdr 4k. Seemed to help with the black crush a little. But not sure if it actually makes the picture better or worse. What does the dynamic contrast actually add? Surely with HDR content, 100% oled light & contrast, it shouldn't be needed. When trying out the hdr AVS black levels l videos on you tube, the bars next to reference were only slightly flashing. If I turned up the brightness, the screen went grey even though it was only just hitting reference level. The movie looks like it needs a tad more brightness but looks washed out if you add any more. Surely on a 4k HDR movie, it should be bright enough?? Anyone else notice this on hdr movies?
 

Franconian

Member
Here are my settings, but again you will need to set them up on each input, so play the input you want to setup like Sky in your case, then change the settings.

Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) Settings
Picture Mode Settings
Contrast: 98 (AVS HD 709 Contrast Calibration on YouTube App)
I like your settings (they are almost the same to mine), but I think there might be an error with contrast- its way to bright. My guess is, that you ramped it up so only 230-234 were flashing? This is wrong, all the bars should be flashing (at least 230-234 if the display is capable - which is the case with OLED), otherwise you remove all the details in white areas.

For me the best result was the default 85 (which is also mentioned on several websites for LG calibration like rtings).
 

Raidevita

Active Member
I like your settings (they are almost the same to mine), but I think there might be an error with contrast- its way to bright. My guess is, that you ramped it up so only 230-234 were flashing? This is wrong, all the bars should be flashing (at least 230-234 if the display is capable - which is the case with OLED), otherwise you remove all the details in white areas.

For me the best result was the default 85 (which is also mentioned on several websites for LG calibration like rtings).
Can you elaborate on the contrast settings please? I always thought you has to have just 230-234 flashing. What about the black levels?
 

MonkeyBoy

Active Member
I like your settings (they are almost the same to mine), but I think there might be an error with contrast- its way to bright. My guess is, that you ramped it up so only 230-234 were flashing? This is wrong, all the bars should be flashing (at least 230-234 if the display is capable - which is the case with OLED), otherwise you remove all the details in white areas.

For me the best result was the default 85 (which is also mentioned on several websites for LG calibration like rtings).
Yes I have everything to the left of reference 235 flashing, I have read it the opposite to you.
 
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MonkeyBoy

Active Member
I like your settings (they are almost the same to mine), but I think there might be an error with contrast- its way to bright. My guess is, that you ramped it up so only 230-234 were flashing? This is wrong, all the bars should be flashing (at least 230-234 if the display is capable - which is the case with OLED), otherwise you remove all the details in white areas.

For me the best result was the default 85 (which is also mentioned on several websites for LG calibration like rtings).
I have retested going with what you have said, that I want all the lines flashing up to 253 and the setting I now have is 84 on the contrast.

I have been using these cards for years so that will be anoying if I have miss read the instructions for all this time!

I have updated the setting in my other post, cheers for clearing that up.
 

Refused

Active Member
Not sure if anyone can help with this - I've noticed when switching from a bright scene to a dark scene there appears to be a fair amount of image retention, if that's the right word for it. For example a title card on a black screen - title fades to a black screen and I can still clearly make out the title as if the pixels haven't gone back to complete black.
Just wondering if this is a known issue, settings that need adjusting etc? Thanks!
 

vince_vega

Active Member
I have noticed this recently too.
 

Franconian

Member
I have retested going with what you have said, that I want all the lines flashing up to 253 and the setting I now have is 84 on the contrast.

I have been using these cards for years so that will be anoying if I have miss read the instructions for all this time!

I have updated the setting in my other post, cheers for clearing that up.
Glad I could help!

With these settings the picture really looks stunning, I encourage everybody to try them if you haven’t found your „right“ ones yet. (My only difference is Warm 1 instead of 2 which should be own preference)

Are you a gamer MonkeyBoy? If that’s the case I would be interested in your settings for the game mode SDR/HDR.
 

chros

Member
Yes I have everything to the left of reference 235 flashing, I have read it the opposite to you.
And that is correct: in a sdr video signal 16 is the black and 235 is the white, nothing should be seen below and above that when using test pattern.
Not to mention that the default values of the LG for contrast and brightness are bypass values, meaning the SoC doesn't have to modify the input signal.
 

Raidevita

Active Member
Are people using dynamic contrast on hdr PS4 gaming? Most games seem to look better using dynamic contrast at medium..in particular FF7 remake..
Also which mode are you guys using for HDR gaming?
Game or ISF ??
 

Raidevita

Active Member
Each input and each HDR mode will have to be set up individually when you have that signal being played e.g. you will need to be playing Jack Ryan on Amazon and get the Dolby Vision flag in the corner, then go through these settings.

With regards the Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) Settings, I can post my settings but as everyone will say on here, they are slightly different for every panel and firmware version, so they may make your picture worse but that’s for you to judge.

Here are my settings, but again you will need to set them up on each input, so play the input you want to setup like Sky in your case, then change the settings.

Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) Settings

Picture
Aspect Ratio Settings > Original > Just Scan: On​
Energy Saving: Off​
Additional Settings > HDMI Ultra HD Deep Colour: On​
OLED Panel Settings
Pixel Refresher (will attempt to clear any image retention)
Screen Shift: On​
Logo Luminance Adjustment: Low​
Picture Mode
ISF Expert (Dark Room) - Dark room with LEDs and one light
Picture Mode Settings
OLED Light: 30​
Contrast: 84 (AVS HD 709 Contrast Calibration on YouTube App)
Brightness: 51 (Amp set using black bars on Blu-ray and Apps set using 00 black on the YouTube App)
Sharpness: 10​
Colour: 54 (AVS HD 709 Flashing Colour Bars on YouTube App with blue filter)
Tint: 0 (AVS HD 709 Flashing Colour Bars on YouTube App with blue filter)
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast: Off​
Super Resolution: Off​
Colour Gamut: Auto​
Colour Filter: Off (Red, Green and Blue)
Gamma: 2.2​
White Balance (Use same settings for all HDR modes)
Colour Temperature: Warm2​
Picture Options
Noise Reduction: Off​
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off​
Black Level: Low​
Real Cinema: On​
Motion Eye Care: Off​
TruMotion: Off​
Motion Pro: Off​
Hi can you explain how to use the colour chart on AVS & how you got to 54?
 

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