LE-A656 settings thread *Part 2*

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Sorry for if this has been answered elsewhere, but in regards to dynamic dimming (post FW 1015)...

Doe this happen when the TV is any mode, or does this only apply to when the TV is in 'dynamic' mode?

Or are there a combination of settings which causes auto-dimming to occur?
 
Here are my latest settings for all firmwares:

HD REC 709 Calibration:-

Graphs:



20-100% IRE delta's are all below 3.

Colour deltas are now lower than before - they are :

RED 2.9
GREEN 3.2
BLUE 0.7
YELLOW 2.6
CYAN 1.0
MAGENTA 0.5

Turns out Warm1 is closer to D65 for me than Warm2.

Settings:

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 3
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0 (Can be set anywhere between 0-12, 0 for a soft image, 12 for a sharp image - anything higher than this introduces too much noise)
Colour: 50
Tint: 50/50

Black Adjust: Off* (Can be set to 'Low' for slightly better blacks but will lose shadow detail - this setting has same affect as lowering brightness)
Dynamic Contrast: Off* (Can be set to 'Low' for gaming to add pop to the picture - should always be off for movies)

Gamma: +1

Colour space:
Red 31 0 7
Green 40 49 0
Blue 2 9 38
Yellow 47 47 0
Cyan 40 52 50
Magenta 25 0 42

White Balance:
R-offs 25
G-offs 25
B-offs 24
R-gain 30
G-gain 25
B-gain 22

Colour tone: Warm1
Size: Just Scan
Digital NR: Off
HDMI Black Level: Low (If available)
100hz Motion Plus: Off (Can be set to 'Low' for non film based material)
Blue Only Mode: Off

SD PAL Calibration:-

Graphs:


Colour Deltas:
RED 3.3
GREEN 2.0
BLUE 1.6
YELLOW 1.5
CYAN 1.1
MAGENTA 0.8

Settings:

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 3* (2 will give a more natural softer picture - best used in a dark room)
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 44
Sharpness: 0-5
Colour: 50
Tint: 50/50

Black Adjust: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Gamma: +1

Colour space:
Red 34 0 7
Green 30 47 0
Blue 0 9 39
Yellow 46 46 0
Cyan 28 48 48
Magenta 29 0 42

White Balance:
R-offs 25
G-offs 25
B-offs 24
R-gain 30
G-gain 25
B-gain 22

Colour tone: Warm1
Size: 16:9
Digital NR: Off
HDMI Black Level: Normal (Setting is greyed out)
100hz Motion Plus: Off (Can be set to 'Low' for non film based material)
Blue Only Mode: Off
Energy Saving: Off* (Can be set to 'Low' to slightly dull the picture but give it a smoother look, best used in a dark room)

Still dyn dim off?
 
I'm pretty sure Mumids dyna dimm is off for the calibration above as the gamma is so good. I think when it was left on it affected the gamma quite a lot.
 
Hi.

I just plugged ina standard dvdplayer via scart to try an SD calibration I could use for SKY+. However, when I came to doing the greyscale I had the 80IRE on the screen but had to put the WB Gain on R - 0 G - 25 and B-0? Even with the red and Blue on 0 the bars still did not come down to 100%. I thought it might be a deect with the DVD player as it is a cheap one.

Alternatively, I have an upscale DVD player via hdmi, would it be better to change the output on this one to SD then run the calib through that one? I thought that as sky+ is via scart it might be better to run the dvd player via scart too but this might not be the case.

Thanks for your help, Martin
 
Would it be Ok to use the settings posted by Mumid as SD for DTV? if not, which settings can I try for DTV?

Thanks!
 
Yes these settings should be perfect for SD.


Hi Mumid.

I tried your latest settings on my TV and they look really good.
I thought my settings were sort of close to yours, but the white balance and custom settings really make a difference!

It's very kind of you to share them with everyone on here.

Thanks a lot!!! :smashin:
 
Hi Mumid,

My settings are the same as yours apart from one setting in the WB adjust SM.

Your mov gamma is M3 and mine is off. Do you know whether this setting makes a big difference?

Many thanks, Martin.
 
I've had another recalibration tonight of my 40" panel using the Spyder 2 sensor.

I have firmware 1020.1 and found using full screen IRE patterns gets around the dimming problem when doing the calibration.

I've got what I think are fairly good results, but 0 and 10 IREs are out, 0 IRE by a long way. I think the sensor just isn't good enough for these IREs (as discussed before) but surely if 20-100 is good , then 0IRE can't be as far out as the CHC file suggests.

Interestingly, Warm 1 gets me close to D65 and my blue gain has to be at 50! This proves again that using other peoples settings is pointless. I'd be very interested to get some readings from peoples sets who say my/alans/mumids/pauls settings look great. This is not to say their settings are not good, but I think the varience in white balance settings shows that these panels seem to have very different default SM settings.

I've attached my latest HCFR file.

Feedback is appreciated.
 

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I've had another recalibration tonight of my 40" panel using the Spyder 2 sensor.

Interestingly, Warm 1 gets me close to D65 and my blue gain has to be at 50! This proves again that using other peoples settings is pointless. I'd be very interested to get some readings from peoples sets who say my/alans/mumids/pauls settings look great. This is not to say their settings are not good, but I think the varience in white balance settings shows that these panels seem to have very different default SM settings.

I've attached my latest HCFR file.

Feedback is appreciated.

I agree above that your calibration is for your setup. I also tried other settings (Like Alan_CD and Mumid) and I took HCFR measurements by using these settings. The other settings are too far from the spec so you have to make your own calibration. In general it's great to start from someone else settings because they are usually better than original setting (native or auto).
 
Hi,
I agree, I also have a Spyder2 but further to the Calibration for Dummies guide I ignore 10 and 20 IRE and use 30-90 as the main guide as my Spyder 2 struggles with 20 as well as 10. I can get 30 upwards under 1.5 so happy with that.

My SM settings are exactly the same as Mumids but my White Balance was different to his which proves the point that no TV's are the same even though they have been calibrated really well (Mumids).

I am struggling with the colours though, cant get them under 3 no matter what I do. I might leave the greyscale as it is but change all the Colour Space settings to the same as Mumids? You never know, this might work.

I also tried to do SKY+ last night by plugging in a SD DVD player but it didn’t work. The greyscale should of been close anyway but the Blue was off the scale (upwards) and amending the settings wouldn’t bring it in line so I abandoned it. My upscale DVD is via HDMI but I might amend the output setting to SD then run a calibration again to see if this helps. You never know.

Cheers, Martin.
 
Hi Martin

HDMI is totally different to SCART, one is digital and the other is analogue.

So by removing your Sky+ (SCART) box and plugging in a DVD player (HDMI) would do nothing unfortunately for any calibrations you carry out.

By using the SCART on your DVD player should be very much closer to your calibration ideal.

Alan
 
Hi,

i have done an interesting research.

normally the WB setting in the service menu is for the dynamic.
I thought only changing the Movie-WB values have an impact to the Movie- Mode. But that is not correct !

Someone in the German "Hifi-Forum" has called that the dynamic (WB Menu) interact with the Movie-WB Menu. I didnt think so but thats is correct.

I have changed the following values

Sub Bright 128
Red Offset 129
Green Offset 128
Blue Offset 132
Sub Contrast 145
Red Gain 131
Green Gain 128
Blue Gain 125

to

Sub Bright 128
Red Offset 70
Green Offset 128
Blue Offset 132
Sub Contrast 145
Red Gain 131
Green Gain 128
Blue Gain 125

and here are the results (measued in Movie Mode)

Original:

originalcg0.jpg


Changed

changedgu1.jpg


Butty
 
Hi

I have had an L656 for 3 months and it was perfect until I did an upgrade to 1020. After setting the picture on each source to 'Standard' or 'Movie' it changes back after 30 minutes by itself to 'Dynamic'. Every time I change it back it goes back to Dynamic again. Anyone else had this problem and is it just a coincidence or have I a problem with the tv.
Thanks
Phil
 
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Hi Mumid.

I tried your latest settings on my TV and they look really good.
I thought my settings were sort of close to yours, but the white balance and custom settings really make a difference!

It's very kind of you to share them with everyone on here.

Thanks a lot!!! :smashin:

You are welcome fella.

Hi Mumid,

My settings are the same as yours apart from one setting in the WB adjust SM.

Your mov gamma is M3 and mine is off. Do you know whether this setting makes a big difference?

Many thanks, Martin.

Im not exactly sure what that does, however, if you can get your gamma to track to 2.2 alright then it doesnt really matter that its different.

Hi,

i have done an interesting research.

normally the WB setting in the service menu is for the dynamic.
I thought only changing the Movie-WB values have an impact to the Movie- Mode. But that is not correct !

Someone in the German "Hifi-Forum" has called that the dynamic (WB Menu) interact with the Movie-WB Menu. I didnt think so but thats is correct.

I have changed the following values

Sub Bright 128
Red Offset 129
Green Offset 128
Blue Offset 132
Sub Contrast 145
Red Gain 131
Green Gain 128
Blue Gain 125

to

Sub Bright 128
Red Offset 70
Green Offset 128
Blue Offset 132
Sub Contrast 145
Red Gain 131
Green Gain 128
Blue Gain 125

and here are the results (measued in Movie Mode)

Butty

Yeah, the SM shows default Dynamic settings unless you change it to movie mode.

It was better before the changes!
 
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Since yesterday after getting almost perfect 2.2 gamma, I have done the no-nos and increased gamma from -1 to 0 and also turned on dynamic contrast.

I just find it far too dark in dark scenes with gamma at 2.2. I guess it is ok in a dark room, but in a living room with a couple of lamps on etc etc (and a Christmas tree), it looks far too dark.

I checked the grayscale again and it had little impact so hopefully will just leave the damn thing alone now and enjoy the TV programmes. :)
 
I've had another recalibration tonight of my 40" panel using the Spyder 2 sensor.

I have firmware 1020.1 and found using full screen IRE patterns gets around the dimming problem when doing the calibration.

I've got what I think are fairly good results, but 0 and 10 IREs are out, 0 IRE by a long way. I think the sensor just isn't good enough for these IREs (as discussed before) but surely if 20-100 is good , then 0IRE can't be as far out as the CHC file suggests.

Interestingly, Warm 1 gets me close to D65 and my blue gain has to be at 50! This proves again that using other peoples settings is pointless. I'd be very interested to get some readings from peoples sets who say my/alans/mumids/pauls settings look great. This is not to say their settings are not good, but I think the varience in white balance settings shows that these panels seem to have very different default SM settings.

I've attached my latest HCFR file.

Feedback is appreciated.

Hi mate,

Yes these TV's do seem to respond very differently! Your graphs look good. Maybe try knocking blue gain down a notch and upping contrast up a notch, that might help get rid of the rise in blue response at 70% IRE. Apart from that, its pretty much spot on. Dont worry about 0-10 IRE, its very hard for the sensor to pick up accurate readings there.

Your just about done on the greyscale I would say... now to get to work on your colourspace :)

Since yesterday after getting almost perfect 2.2 gamma, I have done the no-nos and increased gamma from -1 to 0 and also turned on dynamic contrast.

I just find it far too dark in dark scenes with gamma at 2.2. I guess it is ok in a dark room, but in a living room with a couple of lamps on etc etc (and a Christmas tree), it looks far too dark.

I checked the grayscale again and it had little impact so hopefully will just leave the damn thing alone now and enjoy the TV programmes. :)

If its too dark, you should just be able to up the backlight until it is comfortable for you.
 
Yeah, the SM shows default Dynamic settings unless you change it to movie mode.

It was better before the changes!

It's clear mate, i did this only for reasech. but i hadn't change the WB Settings to Movie Mode. I had change the dynamic mode values and this changing had an impact on the movie mode.
 
It's clear mate, i did this only for reasech. but i hadn't change the WB Settings to Movie Mode. I had change the dynamic mode values and this changing had an impact on the movie mode.

Oh I see, sorry for misunderstanding your post!

Interesting find. Good work mate. Will test it out next time im doing a calibration.
 
Hi Guys

Being looking at getting started with calibration, got HCFR and going to borrow a Spyder 2 and got the HD patterns disk from avsforums. One question I had and I am sure more will follow is what color output should I set on my blue ray player, I have about four options, at the moment I am favoring RGB 0-254 as the test patterns show this range.
 
Hi, is anyone willing to share any settings for the 37 inch A656? I've tried a few of the settings that have been posted from the 40", and they've made a massive improvement on the default picture (thanks chaps), but it's still not ideal. The main problem I have now seems to be white's, it's like looking into the sun on occasion. I've tried playing with the Brightness, Gamma etc, but just can't seem to get it right. Life was so much simpler when you just had colour, brightness, and contrast to worry about...
 
Hi,

When I was doing my SD DVD calibration the output from my DVD had two options Ypbrr or RGB, I picked RGB. I assume this I correct for the calibration?

With the secondary colours, say for example you have one at 140% and the other bar at 120% from reading youngsyps insttructions you try and get them to match. Would you bring one of them down, the other one up or move both equally. The colour calibration is confusing me a bit. Is the idea to get the secondary to 100% or do they have to just match.

Sorry for all my questions regarding this, I am genuinely trying to learn it so I can get by on my own but struggling to get ir into my brain how each of the colours interact with each other.

For example my red primary might have postive G and B figures but I cant put them down as they are alrwady on 0 in the colourspace.

Many thanks to everyone and have a nice Christmas.

Martin.
 
I have been trying to find right settings for me (LE52A656). but noone got rid of the greenish look of the noncocasion faces.
I have HD satelite STB which upconverts SD channels to 1080i
HD channels look fine but all SD channels picture is greenish.

The same with DVD, which is conected via component cable YPrPb all DVDs look greenish.

Is there any setting that removes greenish efect without entering service menu?
Thank you.
 
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Here are my first results

LE-40A656
ITU.709 Standard
PRL-1011.2
Upscaling 1080p via Yamaha DVD-S1700
HCFR Pattern DVD
Probe: X-Rite DTP94B

Service Menu White Balance:
wbwd7.jpg



Service Menu Movie White Balance:
moviewbto6.jpg



Settings (Sorry for German...)
settingshdbd8.jpg


HCFR Data:
messwertehdck7.jpg


messwertehdfarbentc0.jpg


helligkeityq3.jpg


gammagk0.jpg


tempap4.jpg


rgbniveaupk6.jpg


ciedj7.jpg



Butty
 
I have had an L656 for 3 months and it was perfect until I did an upgrade to 1020. After setting the picture on each source to 'Standard' or 'Movie' it changes back after 30 minutes by itself to 'Dynamic'. Every time I change it back it goes back to Dynamic again. Anyone else had this problem and is it just a coincidence or have I a problem with the tv.
Maybe you are in "Store Demo" mode:
If the unit is accidentally set to “Store Demo” mode and you want to return to “Home Use” (Standard): Press the Volume button on the TV. When the volume OSD is displayed, press and hold the MENU button on the TV for 5 seconds.
 
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