Klipsch R-26F and AT screen distances


Standard Member

I am planning a home theatre build and have been learning about using spandex and building a AT screen. I was thinking about getting a pair of Klipsch R-26F for the front left/right speaker. But then started thinking about space between speaker and screen and speaker and wall. I plan to build a fake wall for hanging the screen on and putting the speakers behind it. So my questions

1. Should I be leaving a space between the speaker and the rear wall? Or can they be up against it?
2. Should there be a space between the front of the speaker grill and the spandex screen? I was thinking if it's close and the volume is high.. isn't there a risk of seeing the spandex vibrating?
3. This speaker has air holes at the bottom ..


I'm thinking air needs to go in and out of this. So if this speaker is sitting at the same height as the bottom of the projector screen, the air from here should be hitting the spandex, that's ok right? Am I over thinking this?

4. This speaker is 13.5" deep .. so as a minimum I'm guessing the fake wall has to be at least this deep? Unless I make a cavity in the actual wall behind and bury as much of the cabinet in that wall as I can.. I think there must be at least 8" in that cavity (building bylaws here)

Reason I'm being so anal is that I don't want to wait space in the room for this fake wall.

Thanks for any advice.

Peter Parker

Distinguished Member
I'm using three Behringer B215XL speakers behind a spandex screen (15" woofers, compression drivers and front firing ports) with no issues, so you will be just fine.

I built mine into a baffle wall, so the front of the speakers are flush with the wall treatment - you need to add some Linacoustic or similar to absorb the high frequencies that will bounce back and forth between the screen material and the baffle wall.

You could bury them as far into the wall as is possible, and frame a wall extension onto that to bring it flush with the speakers, less the depth of the Linacoustic (an inch usually), or just get some 5" thick acoustic foam to make up the difference. It doesn't need to be profiled (egg box or wedge shaped for example), but just be able to absorb high frequencies.

One of the guys here took the drivers out of his speakers, and built some wider boxes that were less deep so they wouldn't take too much out of the room depth. Not sure how easy it is to do that with yours though.

Your speakers probably were''t designed with a baffle wall in mind so probably have some baffle step correction built into the crossover. This may result in a bass bump as all the bass will now be firing forward and give you a 6dB bass boost. That may or may not sound OK, but if you have any room eq it may fix it.

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