Ken Kreisel Professional Sound Subwoofers - Part 4

Comical drawing attached, but it does the job in inches.
Distance to back wall 8-4 inches as angled.
Only this speaker, my rack is very close to it, wonder if this is anything ?
Oooooh, where does the little door go? Alice In Wonderland?
 
so seen a couple of movies with these subs. An observation I’ve made. They act like a speaker, the bass tones change so rapidly and sound very different depending on the scene. Haven’t heard just the single sub but as a duo they go deep!
 
so seen a couple of movies with these subs. An observation I’ve made. They act like a speaker, the bass tones change so rapidly and sound very different depending on the scene. Haven’t heard just the single sub but as a duo they go deep!
I know what you mean by this and for me, it’s a testament to how good they are.
The best I’ve heard for this experience is Perlisten, their response is simply fantastic. I havn’t heard the KK subs but next to Perlisten I’d have to give a shout to Arendal as they are extremely close.
 
I know what you mean by this and for me, it’s a testament to how good they are.
The best I’ve heard for this experience is Perlisten, their response is simply fantastic. I havn’t heard the KK subs but next to Perlisten I’d have to give a shout to Arendal as they are extremely close.
I haven’t heard arendal subs but have heard the D212’s and D15. KK and Perlisten have the push/pull configuration on the subs. I think some of the engineers even Dan at some point worked with Ken back in the old M&K days… I do the think the technology is very similar however the Perls have a better build quality and more up to date tech E.g. app support.
 
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I haven’t heard arendal subs but have heard the D212’s and D15. KK and Perlisten have the push/pull configuration on the subs. I think some of the engineers even Dan at some point worked with Ken back in the old M&K days… I do the think the technology is very similar however the Perls have a better build quality and more up to date tech E.g. app support.
Slight diffrence in the ethos as well, Ken’s never gone beyond 12 inch drivers.

I actually had a friend make me a 15 inch push pull sub around 12 years ago as I was that impressed with the mx5100sf which was M&Ks final flagship sub when Ken was involved.
 
I haven’t heard arendal subs but have heard the D212’s and D15. KK and Perlisten have the push/pull configuration on the subs. I think some of the engineers even Dan at some point worked with Ken back in the old M&K days… I do the think the technology is very similar however the Perls have a better build quality and more up to date tech E.g. app support.
I don’t think Ken’s designs have anything to worry about. Most that have tried to take on Ken go for extra depth, but it’s always at the expense of what makes Ken’s subs sound special. Having that extra depth seems to sacrifice something, which seems to be why Ken has never ventured into larger drivers - he obviously feels something is lost. The whole ethos behind the DXD12012 is that it is as good as can be, so the obvious step forward from that is to add by stacking, adding depth and headroom, cutting distortion, reducing excursion, and retaining all the positives of the 12012.
 
Been reading this thread from the start...

As a future precaution, can someone link me the fuse for the internal amps and also the fuse for the external amp (under the power connection).

Has anyone over the years changed the internal fuses? any guides or recommendations?

Thanks
 
I did the slow blow one quite early on in my ownership, was very easy. It never went again and I did have it for quite a while.
Didn’t even know you had a KK sub mate. Can you send me the details on which one fuse and are you referring to the internal or external fuse?
 
It could be. The way to check is to move the speaker forward or back and see if the null moves. If it does, it's speaker position related. I have them as well, not much you can do I don't think other than go in-wall.
Moved the speaker about 5 inches forward, away from the wall, the null disappeared
 
Hi. The above link was posted early in this thread but no longer seems to work. I just want to check my 12012 is fully working before I sell it.
Can anybody recall his suggestion ?
When you power down the sub, put your ear next to it, you should hear two 'pops' meaning both amps have discharged. if its one 'pop' that means only one amp is currently working. Could be a fuse or something more complicated.
 
When you power down the sub, put your ear next to it, you should hear two 'pops' meaning both amps have discharged. if its one 'pop' that means only one amp is currently working. Could be a fuse or something more complicated.
Great, thanks for that I’ll take a listen.
 

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