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JVC DLA X5900/X7900/X9900 owners thread

razy60

Well-known Member
Had a look
On top of gaming HDR look, When you test can you check one more thing please. This maybe critical test.

Set Desktop in Nvidia Panel to RGB (full), 4k, 60HZ, 8 bit (exactly such settings please). Then turn HDR setting in Widnows on. Is all working well then?
As far as hdr gaming is concerned it's a bit flatter than my TV but I expected that, but its far from washed out.
I could not get it to run in RGB kept getting a all magenta screen so reverted back to ycbcr 4.2.2 10bit.
IMG_20200222_141603.jpg
IMG_20200222_142308.jpg
 

494930

Distinguished Member
So are you not going to answer my simple question for help?

"Maybe you could be kind enough to answer my question I've asked or show me a screen shot of how you put it into high in a way that once done it has the ability to pop out of high when not required, I really am confused and wonder if we are talking different things.... "

I'm out.................
I can answer this for you. The Epson will manipulate its fan speed in relation to ADL so long as the dynamic iris is switched on. Not sure if it happens with the iris set to slow but definitely happens with it set to fast.
 

Thatsnotmynaim

Distinguished Member
I can answer this for you. The Epson will manipulate its fan speed in relation to ADL so long as the dynamic iris is switched on. Not sure if it happens with the iris set to slow but definitely happens with it set to fast.
Cheers, that’s odd as think I have mine set to dynamic and fast, but will have a play as sounds like it’s dependant on a few things, so can happily have a play now I know where to look, cheers... :thumbsup:
 

JVCSubFan

Member
Had a look

As far as hdr gaming is concerned it's a bit flatter than my TV but I expected that, but its far from washed out.
I could not get it to run in RGB kept getting a all magenta screen so reverted back to ycbcr 4.2.2 10bit.
View attachment 1261192View attachment 1261194
Hi,
Thank you. Are the attached pictures in HDR mode on? They look very good. Absolutelly not what I am experiancing. Are these using Custom curves?

So at setting which I have asked you to check are you getting pink picture as well?
 

razy60

Well-known Member
Yes with HDR on. Using custom settings.
If I set the pc in Nvidia control to RGB 8bit full then I get the pink screen.
 

JVCSubFan

Member
Thank you SIR. Then You have same issue what I get. This is a projector limitation for RGB gaming then. (With Epson I used RGB and was no issue). So first thing we know is unsolvable.

Then why I am getting washed out Desktop or games when switch on HDR in windows? Hmmm. Custom curves? What are exact settings of your projector when HDR is on?

Again thanks. I believe we are getting there. I am so happy to see your pics which look exactly how I would expect. You gave me faith in this forum.
 

razy60

Well-known Member
My settings are for my room so probably won't be any good for you, if I was you I would change from RGB to ycbcr in the Nvidia control panel.
 

razy60

Well-known Member
I also had a Epson 9300w and used the same Nvidia settings, they are also the ones I use with my TV as they look the best.
 

JVCSubFan

Member
My settings are for my room so probably won't be any good for you, if I was you I would change from RGB to ycbcr in the Nvidia control panel.
After RGB failed Yes I used ycbrc settings and they looked washed out unfortunatelly thus the problem. The settings I am asking in general like which mode, which color space, which camma curve, some basic stuff for me to start with. Too bad we cant set 4:4:4 at 4k 60hz 10 bits to have it available both for games and for movies without playing with Nvidia control panel.
 

razy60

Well-known Member
After RGB failed Yes I used ycbrc settings and they looked washed out unfortunatelly thus the problem. The settings I am asking in general like which mode, which color space, which camma curve, some basic stuff for me to start with. Too bad we cant set 4:4:4 at 4k 60hz 10 bits to have it available both for games and for movies without playing with Nvidia control panel.
I leave my pc set to ycbcr 4.2.0 10bit, I don't touch it after that.
As for PJ settings,
Picture mode: HDR
Clear black: Off
Lamp: high
Lens: manual 0
Colour profile: HDR
Colour temp: high bright
Gamma: HDR (St. 2084)
The rest are either default or auto.
 

JVCSubFan

Member
I leave my pc set to ycbcr 4.2.0 10bit, I don't touch it after that.
As for PJ settings,
Picture mode: HDR
Clear black: Off
Lamp: high
Lens: manual 0
Colour profile: HDR
Colour temp: high bright
Gamma: HDR (St. 2084)
The rest are either default or auto.
thanks. I will check that one at home and will report back.
 

shartm

Standard Member
Again, I write about the dynamic iris. I accidentally discovered that all problems with it go away on my x790 once and for all when you enable the color profile "Video". This is a strange and difficult to explain, but a fact. The profile itself, apparently, is designed for the color space of an "adult" cinema - that is, DCI, because when it is enabled in the "calibration" of the display in madVR, the saturation becomes normal, and the colors are correct. By the way, the output of HDR (dynamic tonemapping) in madvr with this calibration setting has become much more complete (if I may say so) in color. But the goal of the post is different - solving problems with DI.
 

JVCSubFan

Member
Hi
yes I have HDR gaming under control now. Thanks to all who helped me out - much appreciated. The problem was sending RGB signal insteand of 4:2:2 what was causing the issue plus signal set not to auto I think. So RGB signal is buggy with JVC.
HDR control in games with X7900 is a bit more tricky as each game you need to adjust setting individually. WIth Epson 6050 it was much more plug and play and HDR mapping looked more precise and definitally more sharp/detailed. And a high lamp mode drives me crazy o JVC. Epson was much quieter after a while in high.

One other interesting observation which nobody mentioned when it comes to HDR mode vs MadVR.
When I was using Epson using MadVR with its pixel shader DTM was giving much better results than just simply passs trough to projector.

I started same setup with JVC, but when I have tried pass trough the HDR mode with ST. gamma curve (after some adjustments of gamma tones sliders) the picture is really great. The HDR effect is much more dynamic than trough MadVR.
So I decided to create another profile and copied all setting of original HDR mode to one of User modes. And unfortunatelly this does not look same as in the HDR mode. Why is that? Why the only preset which gives most dynamic highlights is the HDR one and when copied to user one the effect is not as good anymore?

So I have 2 conclusions for movies:
1. MadVR does not look better than passtrough using HDR mode (and only that mode) adjusted with some gamma changes on sliders plus some contrast, colour and brightness adjustments. The gamma curve is ST one and only that one.
2. You can't copy the HDR effect from HDR preset to any User modes without loosing highlight and HDR dynamics.

Any comments and ideas folks?
 

Thatsnotmynaim

Distinguished Member
You have something fundamentally wrong if madvr is not producing better results. You should tell madvr to map hdr to sdr with bt 2020 and not send a hdr signal. When doing this you have the PJ in none HDR mode as madvr is doing the tone mapping before the signal hits the PJ not the PJ. If you have madvr doing the tone mapping and the PJ in HDR mode, you will be double tone mapping which will get weird results.
Failing that second best is uploading JAVS custom curves, 1 for 85 nits with 1200 nits content and another for 85 nits with 4000 nits content.
 

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JVCSubFan

Member
I have nothing fundamentally wrong. All is set as you said so the observation is correct. All is set up properly. Using MadVR 5 years and helped Madshi in developing it many times. Javs curves uploaded and still definitally not as good as ST one after adjustments but ONLY when used in pair with original HDR preset. Otherwise Javs are great.

Anyway best would be if you can check by yourself on your projector.
Set it to HDR preset. Adjust it to ST curve, tone to 11, dark and bright levels below 0.

Then run some good UHD file from PC. with good HDR effects and colours.

Try to switch between HDR pass trough (on HDR preset) and madVR DTM (using other best preset you have for that). Both will look preatty good, but if passtrough the HDR effects will be more spectatular.

Also other thing which is a fact.
Please copy HDR preset all setting to User preset. While using passtrough and comparing HDR with its User copy the effects will be different. HDR will be much lesss dynamic when run User preset despite all settings are identical. Why is that?

Please check that before you reply to me as I read your history and you learnt JVC and Madvr just recently so would be great you check that before replying.

And I dont have any double tone mapping, please read what i say carefully. I am comparing passtrough with JVC tonematting (in HDR mode) vs MadVR DTM with other adjusted mode set to SDR BT2020.
 
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fallinlight

Well-known Member
Good evening all,

I hope you are all well and safe. I am really itching now to put my projector back on to bunker down with some films, after months of inaction from it. Has anyone ordered from Beamer Parts before? It is the only place that has what looks like a genuine X7900 lamp:


They are not reviewed or existing on Trustpilot and I could only find the below mentions which are doubtful:



Kind thanks and be well,

fallinlight
 

DannyBoy73

Active Member
Following from the above question.

How many people have a spare bulb already? And do we know approx how long a bulb lasts?

Thank you
 

fallinlight

Well-known Member
Following from the above question.

How many people have a spare bulb already? And do we know approx how long a bulb lasts?

Thank you
Good morning @DannyBoy73, I hope you are well. Are you seeking to purchase the same one? I assume you are, seeing an X7900 in your signature. My stock factory bulb was at approximately 3,403 hours when my X7900 warned me to change the bulb.

I emailed Beamer Parts on 20/03/2020 asking if their item is the genuine article but I have not received a reply.

Best wishes,

fallinlight
 

jfinnie

Distinguished Member
I've got around 1800hrs on mine with not a lot of dimming, still got plenty of life in it. I've only opened the iris up 3-4 clicks to keep calibrated SDR levels (I think from -11 to -8 now). Of course, if you start off with having to have the iris fully open then it won't be long until you need a new lamp.

With the lamps lasting much longer than on previous series I'm a bit conflicted about the idea of re-using the housing with a bare lamp as the housing will have many more hours on it than previous models which didn't have such good lamp life. The housings do experience a lot of heat, and the terminals deliver significant power while at high temperature. Even if my lamp died tomorrow it would have only cost me about 25p per hour in lamp life; I'm not sure the savings are worth it.
 

fallinlight

Well-known Member
My preferences have always been different to everyone I know on here: I started at -15 and the furthest I went up was to around -6. At various points in time, I gained brightness back, as can happen with lamps. So, I was able to hover at around an average of -10 I would say, for most of my usage till the lamp expired.

With the lamps lasting much longer than on previous series I'm a bit conflicted about the idea of re-using the housing with a bare lamp as the housing will have many more hours on it than previous models which didn't have such good lamp life. The housings do experience a lot of heat, and the terminals deliver significant power while at high temperature. Even if my lamp died tomorrow it would have only cost me about 25p per hour in lamp life; I'm not sure the savings are worth it.
This is good to know. thank you kindly for this information, @jfinnie. So, do you recommend folks get a new lamp + housing if they can afford it? I cannot afford the housing, hence trying to seek out just the lamp. Is there a a chance I will experience a lower life next time around by installing a new lamp into my existing lamp housing?
 

jfinnie

Distinguished Member
This is good to know. thank you kindly for this information, @jfinnie. So, do you recommend folks get a new lamp + housing if they can afford it? I cannot afford the housing, hence trying to seek out just the lamp. Is there a a chance I will experience a lower life next time around by installing a new lamp into my existing lamp housing?
I think if you can afford it and are risk-averse then the genuine lamp with a new housing is the best option. If the unit is still in warranty I'd be doubly-hesitant to not be able to show in the case of a claim that I had fitted a complete genuine lamp assembly. (even if you reset the lamp hours counter the JVC service tool will show the chassis running hours).

If you can't afford it then I guess you have to cut your cloth accordingly. I don't think the risks are large (and certainly it is less risky to recycle your own genuine lamp housing than it is to buy a cheap copied lamp housing than might be made with incorrect or substandard materials).

These aren't huge amounts of money that you need and the lamp life is over a pretty long period of time for even the keenest user (you've had yours over a year now, right?). Put your hand in your pocket and stick a quid in a jar everytime you turn the PJ on and you'll almost certainly cover the bulk of the cost of the lamp by the time the warning is up, maybe with a movie or 10 to spare once you've bought it :)
 

fallinlight

Well-known Member
I'm probably still a way from needing a new lamp but using it a lot. Where are people ordering the genuine lamps and housings from? Do they tend to be readily available now that new projectors are out?

Or, from JVC directly. JVC's recent quote to me was around £5.00 more than Alan's listed price at the time.
 

fallinlight

Well-known Member
I think if you can afford it and are risk-averse then the genuine lamp with a new housing is the best option. If the unit is still in warranty I'd be doubly-hesitant to not be able to show in the case of a claim that I had fitted a complete genuine lamp assembly. (even if you reset the lamp hours counter the JVC service tool will show the chassis running hours).

If you can't afford it then I guess you have to cut your cloth accordingly. I don't think the risks are large (and certainly it is less risky to recycle your own genuine lamp housing than it is to buy a cheap copied lamp housing than might be made with incorrect or substandard materials).

These aren't huge amounts of money that you need and the lamp life is over a pretty long period of time for even the keenest user (you've had yours over a year now, right?). Put your hand in your pocket and stick a quid in a jar everytime you turn the PJ on and you'll almost certainly cover the bulk of the cost of the lamp by the time the warning is up, maybe with a movie or 10 to spare once you've bought it :)
Cheers @jfinnie, £400.00 is a lot of money for me. I have noted your advice and good point regarding the warranty, I did not think about that.

Best wishes,

fallinlight
 

Bagapeas

Standard Member

Or, from JVC directly. JVC's recent quote to me was around £5.00 more than Alan's listed price at the time.
Thanks. I checked and have 1900 hours mostly low bulb so sounds like there’s plenty of life in it yet but glad to know these are easily available
 

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