JVC D-ILA Pink\Magenta Stripe Fixed - X35 in this case Pictures of inside optical block

Patrickphotos

Novice Member
I took it apart this morning, no worries about aligning the mirrors, I don't know where it can come from
 

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Harcoreta

Member
the blue line begins a devier from the middle of the grid to be completely offset at the bottom.

Same issue here in my RS46 (x35)!

First of all, I've found a very useful information in this thread, thank you guys! :)

I have the same problem, blue begins a devier from the middle of the screen to be offset at the bottom, but for only one pixel. The problem is a little less noticeable, but it's the same!

I thought that the problem may be due to missaligment of the D-ILA panels, but it could be some filter or lens, have you made any progress? :)



I want to share information about the mod project that I am doing now :), I'm doing a modification for use a led light source in my JVC RS46.

I've done a ballast bypass last weekend. For do that I disassembled the projector and connect a logic analyzer to the ballast. I was looking for a communication protocol over serial ttl that is now present on new projectors, but this model is using discrete signals only. I did a short circuit on the optocoupler that carry the lamp status signal and It worked, the projector works perfect without a lamp, power connector on ballast was also removed. Tested with a 3W led, the luminance is too low, but enough to check that it works :)

I've attached the possible short circuits you can do for do the bypass, on the control board or on the ballast, I did the short circuit on the optocoupler because it's easier to solder, the connectors and pins are very small.

Ballast Bypass.jpg

I also have done a code for do a dynamic lighting, like a dynamic iris but controlling the led power.

I bought a cheap programmable power supply (DPM8608), and with the ffms2.dll plugin that works with avisynth you can log to an archive the average luminance in the scene. I did a simple script in powershell to take that information and send the desired voltaje command to the power supply. I suppose the code can be improved, I'm not a programmer, but it works very well :). It is intended to be used with a computer with a usb serial ttl. Possible It will be the first cheap JVC projector (not dla-Z1) with ∞:1 contrast xD

Now I'm anxious waiting for the high power leds. I bought 100W and 150W and hope to be enough, next step build the new led housing, also I have a 3d printer and I can design a new lamp housing for the led and optics that can fit perfect in the projector.

I'll update the progress ;)


Regards!
 

DB9S

Active Member
I want to share information about the mod project that I am doing now :), I'm doing a modification for use a led light source in my JVC RS46.


I'll update the progress ;)


Regards!

This looks to be a very interesting project.
With that in mind, might I suggest you start a new thread detailing your proposed mod, so others can find it more easily if they would like to have a go too? :smashin:
Not so easy if it is buried in a thread about a separate issue. :)
 

DB9S

Active Member
@Harcoreta

I assume you have taken into consideration the need for a heatsink (and associated cooling) with these powerful LEDs? Your diligence with what you have done so far suggests you will have. :D
 

Harcoreta

Member
This looks to be a very interesting project.
With that in mind, might I suggest you start a new thread detailing your proposed mod, so others can find it more easily if they would like to have a go too? :smashin:
Not so easy if it is buried in a thread about a separate issue. :)

Thanks DB9S!
You are right, I should open a new thread, but I'm waiting to see if the mod project can be done or close to being able to be done. I think the most complicated part now is put all the led luminance in the correct path into the projector.

I ran the projector light bulb outside of it, and the beam is very focused. Also was a little dangerous, I put my hand wearing with gloves at a 10 cm distance, and I could see smoke in less than 1 second :O, I will not repeat anything like this.

About the led cooling, If the new lamp housing (optics and the heatsink) is bigger than the projector lamp bay, the are a lot of space inside, there is a big duct that can be used for that purpose.

And... if I could get a good light output, other problems may occur with the led are, bad colorimetry, loss of contrast... it's all unknown xD



About writing in this thread, I would like to try to fix the blue missaligment , seems to be the same as Patrickphotos problem, it's not much but it would be great if it could be fixed. This is the only one thread all over the internet that went deep inside into JVC projectors ;)

and sorry.. my English is not so good.

Regards!
 
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ChuckMountain

Distinguished Member
dreamvision response,

c is the optical block, we can do nothing.

Don't quite get what you mean. The optical block is most of the projector bar the bulb and the control boards. It is not user serviceable and is replaced as one part hence the cost :(

What in the optical block has actually gone?
 

DB9S

Active Member
a concern about the blue matrix apparently

Can the panels not be individually replaced? Assuming they can be got at of course.
I think obtaining a service manual might be the first thing on the list to check feasibility, followed by ascertaining if panels can be bought individually.
Hope it gets sorted.
 

ChuckMountain

Distinguished Member
Unfortunately the service manual does not cover any of the optical block other than complete replace it's a "single" part and from memory it is at least 1500 pounds so no point in doing so vs buying new.

No internal parts to the optical block are listed separately so would be guessing what the blue panel was even if you could get it. Not sure how it is attached as I didn't get that far in strip down.
 

DB9S

Active Member
Unfortunately the service manual does not cover any of the optical block other than complete replace it's a "single" part and from memory it is at least 1500 pounds so no point in doing so vs buying new.

No internal parts to the optical block are listed separately so would be guessing what the blue panel was even if you could get it. Not sure how it is attached as I didn't get that far in strip down.

That is the same in Sony service manuals as well.
I believe the panels are actually all identical. The colour is derived elsewhere.
If you are going to replace it with a new one anyway, then it might be worth a shot just for education if nothing else? If you can stomach the cost and you can source a panel that is. :)
 

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