fallinlight

Distinguished Member
He has a baffle wall though?

I forget, but his is not wall to wall, like how mine would be. And he somehow used curtains and or something else to cover up the sides, I believe.
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Let's wait for Mark to tell us.

: )
You’re both right.

Frame built away from the wall, with flush fitting bass traps across the bottom of the frame, all covered in MVEL.

Gaps at the side are around 15cm away from each side wall, I have MVEL curtains that when fully open sit in this gap, so are completely hidden away from view. When closed, the frame looks like it’s a wall, wall to wall.

My frame then has a custom built baffle wall configuration built around my speakers. Sounds complex, but in reality it is just MDF cut to fit the speakers and then attached to my frame.

Works well 👍🏻
 

rigman

Well-known Member
I had the Isco 3 with cinesled for a few years and they can be tricky to set up but once they are done I found the image to be fine with very slight barrel effect which you can minimise with overscan as long as you have a long enough throw ratio.

I used it with JVC projectors and a 120" AT screen. I sold it all around 3 years ago on here. Before that i used a Prismasonic HD5000R

I am tempted to go back to a projection system again though if I did I would definately not use an A lens. I bought it all before projectors had lens memory but now they have I would not bother even if I could get one for a bargain price.
 

AFM1

Active Member
Hi fallinlight - I'd probably be interested in the SAMs if you do decide to sell.
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
Hi fallinlight - I'd probably be interested in the SAMs if you do decide to sell.

Hi AFM1, noted, thank you.
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
Hi
looking for opinions on using a JBL SCL-6 as a centre speaker behind a AT screen?

The SCL range are meant to be superb speakers. A gentleman on here had/ has the SCLs in his room and posted on another thread about it. I was trying to find the thread for you just now but could not. I haven't dived into the SCL's specifications.
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
Hi Andy

along side your Arendals? personally I’d want the LCR to be the same speaker.

Ah, I missed that detail. I thought you meant as an LCR, Andy. Is that an option for you?
 

Lesmor

Distinguished Member
Hi Andy

along side your Arendals? personally I’d want the LCR to be the same speaker.

Ah, I missed that detail. I thought you meant as an LCR, Andy. Is that an option for you?
Hi Guys
thanks for the replies
I am looking to change to a larger AT projector screen the centre Arendal is too large to go behind it
so the moment a SCL-6 will be alongside my L/R Arendal 1723 monitors,

going forward I might look to change them to SCL-7 which won't be behind the screen
Andy
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
Hi Guys
thanks for the replies
I am looking to change to a larger AT projector screen the centre Arendal is too large to go behind it
so the moment a SCL-6 will be alongside my L/R Arendal 1723 monitors,

going forward I might look to change them to SCL-7 which won't be behind the screen
Andy

Hi Andy,

Cool. Why would the 7s not be behind the screen, bud?
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
I have done a mock-up of the proposed 10 foot wide screen and my existing Arendals lie outside that width

May we see some photos?
 

Lesmor

Distinguished Member
As requested
apologies for the dark room this is with all the lights on

20211209 New projector screen.jpg
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member

Lesmor

Distinguished Member
I could, but the existing speakers are mapped perfectly at 60 deg and the soundstage sounds awesome so I don't want to bring the L/R closer together

although the existing screen is not small I wish I had changed it years ago as the image now matches the audio
having demoed a few films with the mock-up it is clear that this screen change is going to be the best upgrade I have ever made in my room
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
I could, but the existing speakers are mapped perfectly at 60 deg and the soundstage sounds awesome so I don't want to bring the L/R closer together

I get you. Bare in mind that bringing them in will tighten your soundstage and add more cohesion. I know what you mean though, about liking a wide soundstage with L C and R far apart. I would still perhaps put the LCR all behind the screen if I had your setup.

I chose to stick with a 16:9 120" non-AT screen and setup for the time being, as I am throw limited to do the CIH setup I want with a 16:9 image I am happy with. But it's mainly being seated too close for comfort to an AT screen in my room that deterred me. I found that the second best thing to having LCR behind a screen is beneath the screen, as I did with my JBL 3677. I am waiting to see how things sound in my current setup doing the same. Though, an anamorphic lens would help and allow me a 16:9 size image I am happier with whilst allowing me to have my SAMs higher off the floor beneath the screen.
 

Lesmor

Distinguished Member
I get you. Bare in mind that bringing them in will tighten your soundstage and add more cohesion. I know what you mean though, about liking a wide soundstage with L C and R far apart. I would still perhaps put the LCR all behind the screen if I had your setup.

I chose to stick with a 16:9 120" non-AT screen and setup for the time being, as I am throw limited to do the CIH setup I want with a 16:9 image I am happy with. But it's mainly being seated too close for comfort to an AT screen in my room that deterred me. I found that the second best thing to having LCR behind a screen is beneath the screen, as I did with my JBL 3677. I am waiting to see how things sound in my current setup doing the same. Though, an anamorphic lens would help and allow me a 16:9 size image I am happier with whilst allowing me to have my SAMs higher off the floor beneath the screen.
I have been following your journey with JBL and they seem to be highly regarded
PMC and Wisdom were also proposed as alternatives

its hard to get demos up this neck of the woods so I rely a lot on the opinion of owners so the more feedback the better
Andy
 

fallinlight

Distinguished Member
A short update on my SAMs: due to ill-health, I am not currently able to do much, so the room progress is stalled for the most part, but am doing little bits here and there. I should hopefully finally have an AVR again to test the speakers and their placement out.

Having not heard the speakers on them yet, I can still highly recommend these isolation speaker stands for anyone needing to do the same, or wanting a solution for their desktop speakers. They are the isoacoustics 155 (they also do other sixes and one for centre speakers). I recently found out about them and seems like listening/ watching honest comparisons of them VS regular stands/ other stands and speakers on bare desk, they provide a significant improvement in sound. I previously was going to have my JBLs straight on the foam with just rubber door wedges tilting them up. But it quickly dawned on me that it wouldn't sound the best like that. And a pair of rubber isolation gel pads beneath each speaker at the back wouldn't be enough. I know already that this will sound much better. The degree of tilt should be approx. 6.5 degrees. They look much much neater, too. There are also longer poles if you want the stands 20 cm tall. I'm very happy with he outcome. I know the centre is very low and it's not going to do these speakers justice but it's the best I can do for now whilst keeping my ideal screen height and viewing angle. I was quite worried about them sounding poor before, even on the foam pads, but seeing them on the isos give me a little more assurance.

The plan is to have LCR all beneath the screen as I did with my 3677 - which sounded fantastic and much better than L & R either side of the screen - if a. the centre sounds good enough below the screen on its own and b. relocating my subs sounds good enough. From previous tests front 1/ 4 wall placement sounded the absolute best.

Ignore the SAMs clipping the viewing area, it is clear of about .5 cm in person at quite low viewing heights.

As for the foam, I sourced my own trim panel/ baffle blocks from a company online and had them cut to size, although I got the length a bit off, but I don't mind now and can have some more cut if I want, or try cutting it myself. The foam is high density closed cell foam. The larger 8 cm tall blocks that I previously had the centre SAM on, I purchased from another company without cutting.

20211209_173406.jpg
20211209_173413.jpg
20211209_173432.jpg
20211209_173445.jpg
 

Saul Goodman

Distinguished Member
I have done a mock-up of the proposed 10 foot wide screen and my existing Arendals lie outside that width

Why don’t you go for a scope screen and upgrade to matching JBLs behind your screen with masking panels for 16:9? What is your distance from screen to MLP?
 

rc789

Active Member
Nice stands🤪
 

Lesmor

Distinguished Member
Why don’t you go for a scope screen and upgrade to matching JBLs behind your screen with masking panels for 16:9? What is your distance from screen to MLP?
Hi Drew
MLP to screen is 4 meters so a 10 foot wide screen is around the 42 deg recommended field of view, any wider would be uncomfortable

I experimented with a 10 foot wide scope screen mock-up but I didn't like having to keep changing projector memories
10 feet wide 16.9 works fine for me even with black bars top and bottom

Looking through some threads a lot of members went for 2.40:1 then eventually went back to 16.9
 

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