Good point! I was referring to the overall "fake surround" effect created by the smart mode when the rears are on. Even if you are playing a 5.1/7.1 mix, this mode will somehow try to "enhance" the surround effect but completly destroying it to my taste (and sure it's not how the sound mixer intended to). By disabling the mode and with rear speakers on it sounds as a traditional and well balanced 5.1/7.1 setup. Just my feeling though.

L
It sounds great to me. 🤷‍♂️
 
I wish this thing had more granular control over the subwoofer. 2.5/5 would be perfect. 3 shakes the room too much while 2 leaves a bit to be desired.
 
I wish this thing had more granular control over the subwoofer. 2.5/5 would be perfect. 3 shakes the room too much while 2 leaves a bit to be desired.
Try putting a foam plug or as in my case a sock in bass port at back this reduces impact and can be useful to control response especially above level 3
 
I wish this thing had more granular control over the subwoofer. 2.5/5 would be perfect. 3 shakes the room too much while 2 leaves a bit to be desired.

I wish the overall volume was like that to be honest. In my setup 13 is sometimes too quiet but 14 is too loud most of the time. 13.5 would probably be ideal and I wouldn't have to mess about adjusting the volume so much!
 
Try putting a foam plug or as in my case a sock in bass port at back this reduces impact and can be useful to control response especially above level 3
Unfortunately that would affect the whole response curve of the subwoofer, not just the volume, and I very much like the response curve of this subwoofer.
 
Hi guys,

will the JBL sound bar be affected by this HDMI 2.1 bug? Seems like all chipsets will have this issue?

 
Hi guys,

will the JBL sound bar be affected by this HDMI 2.1 bug? Seems like all chipsets will have this issue?

This bar isn’t HDMI 2.1 capable anyways. It’s 2.0.
 
Unfortunately that would affect the whole response curve of the subwoofer, not just the volume, and I very much like the response curve of this subwoofer.
I agree it effects response curve but i have found with some adjustment of plug the response is preferable to my liking and less one dimensional than without.
 
Hello. Just got the Soundbar and have problems calibrating... Always says RETRY instead of DONE. Does anybody know what to do? Thanks..
I had this problem and had to reset the bar and do the calibration before connecting the bar to the internet.
Someone else posted this fix which worked for me.
 
They said in the sentence above. They had to reset the soundbar to get calibration to work.
:facepalm:

that’s the trouble skim-reading in mod mode. Failed to arrange the words in the most logical order in my brain:blush::rotfl:
 
Does Apple TV only display PCM even when it's sending Atmos through Netflix? When I play something through my TV's app (Q90T) the display says Atmos but when I play it through Apple TV it only says PCM. I have Atmos checked in the ATV settings.
 
Does Apple TV only display PCM even when it's sending Atmos through Netflix? When I play something through my TV's app (Q90T) the display says Atmos but when I play it through Apple TV it only says PCM. I have Atmos checked in the ATV settings.
No it should say Atmos if it’s Atmos.
 
I have Atmos checked in the ATV settings.
AFAIK ATV sends ATMOS via PCM MAT. The MAT is the ATMOS metadata. The soundbar has to be capable of using that coding. Some bars don’t see (L)PCM let alone MAT :)

if the bar is delivering ATMOS it should say so regardless as to how it gets the ATMOS data. If it can’t use metadata sent by ATV it will only see and use the (L)PCM.
 
AFAIK ATV sends ATMOS via PCM MAT. The MAT is the ATMOS metadata. The soundbar has to be capable of using that coding. Some bars don’t see (L)PCM let alone MAT :)

if the bar is delivering ATMOS it should say so regardless as to how it gets the ATMOS data. If it can’t use metadata sent by ATV it will only see and use the (L)PCM.
Well, glad I don’t own an Apple TV, that really sucks.
 
Well, glad I don’t own an Apple TV, that really sucks.
Many owners of the Samsung latest flagship soundbar seem to own ATV and those threads are littered with examples of this “feature” of that soundbar. Mind you that soundbar only gives stereo from (L)PCM as well so it is pretty hopeless for ATV and Nintendo switch in terms of ATMOS and anything other than 2 of the channels of (L)PCM.
 
Many owners of the Samsung latest flagship soundbar seem to own ATV and those threads are littered with examples of this “feature” of that soundbar. Mind you that soundbar only gives stereo from (L)PCM as well so it is pretty hopeless for ATV and Nintendo switch in terms of ATMOS and anything other than 2 of the channels of (L)PCM.
I’m getting 5.1 on switch. Granted I have it plugged directly into the soundbar.
 
AFAIK ATV sends ATMOS via PCM MAT. The MAT is the ATMOS metadata. The soundbar has to be capable of using that coding. Some bars don’t see (L)PCM let alone MAT :)

if the bar is delivering ATMOS it should say so regardless as to how it gets the ATMOS data. If it can’t use metadata sent by ATV it will only see and use the (L)PCM.


Oh wow I guess I'll stick to the apps on my TV. Hopefully either the ATV or the JBL soundbar get updated to work together.
 
For the hell of it I updated my ATV to the latest beta and everything is working now so I guess they are working on it lol
 
For the hell of it I updated my ATV to the latest beta and everything is working now so I guess they are working on it lol
Dolby MAT is used to allow SIRI integration. There isn't or hasn't been a fundamental problem with ATV working with this soundbar. Sometimes reboots/restarts are required though as with any combination of hardware.
 
Does anyone get a hiss/static/interference type noise from the rears?

Most prominent is when I'm moving through the menu's on Apple TV.

At first I didn't notice it, but now I can't unhear it. It's not prominent when there's constant sound, but I can really hear it with short, isolated sounds.

Have done a factory reset, re-calibrated and tried different HDMI cables, but its still very much there.

Worried I may have a defective unit - if anyone has an Apple TV 4K, could they check the rears while going through the menu and let me know if they get it as well.
 
Cycle through various sound modes (unsure of purpose yet)
  • Hold bass button for 5 seconds, then press + on remote

Anyone tried it? It seems a lot of different sound quality on all above sound mode

Any explanation from JBL?
 
Guys, my JBL lost wifi connection. Manual says that to setup wifi I need to turn it on and then hold power button for a few seconds until reset wifi will be displayed... But holding the button just turns off the soundbar. What amI doing wrong?
 
is there anyone who is happy owning this soundbar? I mean this thread is full of probelms and complaints.. been intrigued by idea having full atmos soundbar with detachable rear speakers, but really dont want, for that price solve disconnect issues / strange behaviour etc.. And I really need
- need room calibrations, as my tv is placed near wall form one side and wooden cabinet from another
- want really soundbar with good speech /centralú channel, one of reasons for buying soundbar for me is clarity of voice
- want soundbar that would work flawlessly with next gen consoles over earc
- want soundbar thart works flawlessly with streaming apps within my lg c9

So any chance, this will be possible with jbl 9.1?
 

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