Is just under 4K for a new JVC DLA-X7900 worth it?

(GTV)Chris

Active Member
Hi,
I've been looking for a used DLA-X7900 for a long while, and have realised that these things are rarer than hens teeth!
So I have found someone selling one for £3999, brand new with warranty and wondered if this was a good price?
I was hoping a new unit would have been a little less than that due to the age of the unit and the fact that the newer true 4K models are out.
I'm upgrading from my trusty Panasonic PT AE4000, which I love and has one of the best pictures Iv'e seen and it's over 10 years old!
I'm hoping the DLAX7900 would be a worthy upgrade into the pseudo 4K market, as I love the deep blacks of the Panasonic and I know the JVC's are famed for their black level excellence.
Or should I wait it out and see what else comes along?
The main problem is, I can't demo anything at the moment :(

Cheers
Chris
 

drillo

Active Member
I had the same Panny and now have a 7900 - except I had something in between The 2 so can’t quite compare directly. It’s likely all the things you imagine, brighter, sharper, with way better contrast. Things become incrementally better as always as u move upward and the panny is no slouch so it’s not Utterly seismic from memory but I really doubt you would be disappointed. Can’t comment on the going rate but yep that 7900 price does not seem to have moved at all for several yrs. Ideally yOu need to see one in action To see if the improvement is worth the spend - hard when they are scarce not To mention Lockdown
Someone else needs to wade in methinks
 

(GTV)Chris

Active Member
Thanks Drillo. I appreciate your input. I also game on my projector and I know the 7900 has a game setting which is the reason i'm looking at it. I have also seen the X5900 for sale (used), but I think I'm holding out for the X7900 :)
 

alebonau

Well-known Member
Thanks Drillo. I appreciate your input. I also game on my projector and I know the 7900 has a game setting which is the reason i'm looking at it. I have also seen the X5900 for sale (used), but I think I'm holding out for the X7900 :)

id definitely get the 7900 over 5900, not that 5900 is any slouch but the step up in contrast upspec light engine with dual iris and such well worth going for...

...on other hand though ... instead 5900 there was a n5 mentioned here maybe worth also throwing in the mix ... if still there

 

drillo

Active Member
You likely already know but worth saying you need a ‘dark room‘ to be able to unlock the contrast improvement - not just one where you can exclude light but one with dark non reflective walls, floor, ceiling.
 

(GTV)Chris

Active Member
That's the only thing I slightly worry about. I have a room that is pitch black with lights turned off. But with grey walls and a white ceiling. The room obviously becomes brighter.
I am looking at painting the walls a darker matt grey. But need to sell the idea to the Boss!
 

alebonau

Well-known Member
That's the only thing I slightly worry about. I have a room that is pitch black with lights turned off. But with grey walls and a white ceiling. The room obviously becomes brighter.
I am looking at painting the walls a darker matt grey. But need to sell the idea to the Boss!
with contrast I had the epson equivalent of the pana(you have) also in a lounge room setting and can categorically say I saw step to the jvc x35(35,000:1) and quite a step upto the jvc x7000(120,000:1) in upgrading :) the step down in contrast to jvc n7 (80,000:1) is not something i have really perceived though ... but probably noticeable side by side ...

contrast steps should be still visible obviously you can achieve even better contrast with these as you further treat the room... this is the case with ANY projector even the panasonic you now have ... which i have seen in both dedicated and non dedicated setting :)

as per above what will also see is quite a jump up in pure picture quality ... a very analog like picture vs the more digital look of the pana/epson.
 

drillo

Active Member
Again I’ll caveat anything I say with the fact I haven’t had my panny since 2015. I have a room with a black fabric tent inside an otherwise white ceiling, olive wall and darkish floor room - my ‘tent’ can be partially or fully deployed or not at all so I can instantly compare contrast differential. For me it is hugely significant in revealing the contrast Potential but I can’t say It would be unnoticeable regardless without my tent so its encouraging to hear Alebonau views above. I imagine some depends on your own factors like how close your ceiling and walls are to the screen - my screen is very close to the white ceiling.

On the analog digital thing, doesn’t the panny have a SDE minimiser that eliminates SDE (but at the expense of some sharpness) - I thought it diff to the Epson as a result but I may not recall correctly
 

alebonau

Well-known Member
Again I’ll caveat anything I say with the fact I haven’t had my panny since 2015. I have a room with a black fabric tent inside an otherwise white ceiling, olive wall and darkish floor room - my ‘tent’ can be partially or fully deployed or not at all so I can instantly compare contrast differential. For me it is hugely significant in revealing the contrast Potential but I can’t say It would be unnoticeable regardless without my tent so its encouraging to hear Alebonau views above. I imagine some depends on your own factors like how close your ceiling and walls are to the screen - my screen is very close to the white ceiling.
hey drillo am always in support of going as far as possible can go ! get away with what can :D but for many of us a lounge room is as far as can go... but very true a lot of factors, I run a relatively smaller screen its lowered way down from the ceiling for immersion... and have a charcoal carpet and room surrounded with soft furnishings a long way from walls to the screen. the good news is even in a non dedicated setting you get to appreciate the benefit of more contrast ...but of course that benefit will be even greater the more can do with the room !

On the analog digital thing, doesn’t the panny have a SDE minimiser that eliminates SDE (but at the expense of some sharpness) - I thought it diff to the Epson as a result but I may not recall correctly
absolutely it was one of the benefits of the pana vs epson. but yes to expensive of sharpness. the JVC have had the least inter pixel gap of anything even with the X series. with the N series they improved it even further ! this is what gives it the very analog look...

for instance this is the lucy eyes with the JVC X7000 from main viewing position

F583798C-F705-48AC-9018-86ACD1224275_1_201_a.jpeg


and this is taking the camera as close to screen as camera will focus...things like screen door are non event with the JVC and what gives it its analog look. try do that with the epson or pana !

36FE26C7-B294-4C3E-B87D-E4CB023EBDC7.jpeg
 

(GTV)Chris

Active Member
Thanks for all the info and replies :)
I've Just agreed to buy a X7900 on the for sale thread!
I'm really excited as I've been after one for over a year or so. :)
I just need to treat the room sooooo sloooowly, so that the missus doesn't notice.....
I'm sure she would have noticed a large white 20KG thing on the ceiling though, so I've already come clean!!
Any recommendations for mounting this beast on the ceiling? I've seen this:


My rafters run across the room and not down it, so I may have to secure some MDF to the joists first?

Any advice would be great :)

Chris
 
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alebonau

Well-known Member
Any recommendations for mounting this beast on the ceiling? I've seen this:

first ly congrats ! will love the projector :)

re mounts ...peerless precision gear mount is what I use and I know many others using as well. not sure where you are but for me I originally got mine from B&H. high quality service prompt and swift shipping.


it is universal so no locking yourself into a JVC mount pattern. but it is truly precision in that can setup to perfection in two axis. third one is swivelled. I wouldn't get a mount that cant align in precision...

My rafters run across the room and not down it, so I may have to secure some MDF to the joists first?
Id definitely do that unless can affix directly to one of the rafters... the mount comes with all needed to attach. just ned to replace the JVC screwed feet with some threaded screws same thread and length.
 

Rawschach

Distinguished Member
I used a Peerless mount for the X7900 we are discussing

It weighs a lot so attaching some wood or MDF across the joists is the way to go
 

alebonau

Well-known Member
I used a Peerless mount for the X7900 we are discussing

It weighs a lot so attaching some wood or MDF across the joists is the way to go

These are serious projectors too... so wouldn’t hold back on effort to mount
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
Remember that the JVC contrast specs are made with minimum light output, and the light output specs with minimum contrast, so if your running a large screen running fully open iris or close to it, you have no contrast gain in the 7 series, to take advantage of the dubble iris you ned to factor in the screen size/ desired light output, the specs confuses most people.
The 5 series will be the best/ cheapest option for large screen, and the 7 and 9 series best for small screen, also note that a X5000 to X5900 wont work for a screen smaler than around 120" due to to high light output..
 

(GTV)Chris

Active Member
Hi,
My room is pitch black when lights are off, it has mid grey walls, but may go a few shades darker.
I have an 8ft (96 inch) diagonal screen and the JVC will be approx 13ft from the screen.
So will it be too bright on a low lamp setting? I have also seen people use density filters on lenses to reduce output. I may have it calibrated, if it hasn't been already because I believe that that helps reduce lumens?
The nits are about the same as my current projector, I cant see a way to reduce them other than house the unit outside the wall :)
 
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Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
Hi,
My room is pitch black when lights are off, it has mid grey walls, but may go a few shades darker.
I have an 8ft (96 inch) diagonal screen and the JVC will be approx 13ft from the screen.
So will it be too bright on a low lamp setting? I have also seen people use density filters on lenses to reduce output. I may have it calibrated, if it hasn't been already because I believe that that helps reduce lumens?
The nits are about the same as my current projector, I cant see a way to reduce them other than house the unit outside the wall :)
For a 96" neutral screen you will need the X7000 series to be able to close down the lightoutput, the filters are not a good way to reduce light output, its more a last resort if there is no other options.
Of all the JVC X series projectors a X500 would likely be the best for your screen, it should calibrate around 50000:1 or so in a setup like that, with around 14fl, and more rare to have bright corners than the later series.
 

jfinnie

Distinguished Member
Any recommendations for mounting this beast on the ceiling? I've seen this:

I'd steer clear of this mount personally. The first one I was sent had wrong size threaded inserts for screws supplied, the second one the keyholes for the bobbins aligned poorly with the projector mounting holes. It's not a great projector mount.

The Peerless ones have good availability on the UK for reasonable money. There is a bit of slack in the mechanism and the arms bow a little under the weight (within the safety rating though). We don't seem to get the really heavy duty engineered mounts that they get over in the US.
 
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(GTV)Chris

Active Member
Ha.... Yes, I just watched a youtube video of all the types of plugs you can get for the ceiling, some individual plugs can hold well over 12Kg's each, but I still wouldn't trust the weight pulling the actual plaster board off from the rafters!!
 

jfinnie

Distinguished Member
The plugs are often very good, but the bigger concerns are over the state of the board they are going into. Using them blind into board you don't know what the backside looks like is risky.

In my lounge I put an inch thick piece of MDF in the attic between the rafters, and used 4 L-brackets to secure the MDF to the rafters just in case.

Then any good woodscrews are excellent anchors.

Plywood is probably a better choice than MDF though, and is what we used in my dedicated room.
 

swiftpete

Distinguished Member
I wouldn’t dream of attaching into the plasterboard only. In my opinion you need to find the joist and screw into that for peace of mind. I used 100mm screws into mine to make sure the projector didn’t fall off the ceiling. Hasn’t moved a millimetre. You don’t want it dropping off on someone’s head or onto the floor and shattering into a million pieces.
 

(GTV)Chris

Active Member
I have used some little magnets to find where the joists are, I just need a nice bit of MDF now to bridge the gap and I should be good to go. :)
 

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