Question Is 150" too big for my space? and other questions :)

Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
I'm referring to the photos I posted from my LG of the same film and the same scene.
Yes I know, but when you said:
"Just reflecting on your OLED picture, have OLEDs MASSIVELY improved in terms of sharpness of image? Because the difference between my pictures (first photo is MINIMAL sharpening) and yours is night and day..?"
I thought you were suggesting his was sharper than yours (so I thought maybe you were looking at the wrong photo of his), but I guess you were simply saying that his looks soft. Yes it does. Maybe just the settings, I'm sure it could look sharp if needed.

If you're using the same camera, then taking photos of the two devices should not be THAT darastically different. The LG looks crazy soft in his photo, and the Epson looks crazy sharp.
Yes, I thought you were comparing his photo of his OLED against your photo of yours, but you're just comparing his two photos.

I'm just thinking maybe his LG OLED settings are off
I think they are. In the photo it looks a mess, but it may well look good enough from the seating distance.

or LG have made huge strides in the sharpness of image produced by their TVs in the last couple of years because the picture he posted no way in any world resembles what I see on my LG OLED
Regradless of whether they've improved their TVs, and half decent 1080p and up should be able to look sharp.

(which is 77'' so a bit bigger.. so should look less sharper).
I think you mentioned this earlier, saying that a projector, having a larger image, should need more sharpening. In photography, the opposite is true. The large the image, the less sharpening you need. I'd imagine the same is true for moving images.
 

kenshingintoki

Distinguished Member
Yes I know, but when you said:
"Just reflecting on your OLED picture, have OLEDs MASSIVELY improved in terms of sharpness of image? Because the difference between my pictures (first photo is MINIMAL sharpening) and yours is night and day..?"
I thought you were suggesting his was sharper than yours (so I thought maybe you were looking at the wrong photo of his), but I guess you were simply saying that his looks soft. Yes it does. Maybe just the settings, I'm sure it could look sharp if needed.

Yes, I thought you were comparing his photo of his OLED against your photo of yours, but you're just comparing his two photos.

I think they are. In the photo it looks a mess, but it may well look good enough from the seating distance.

Regradless of whether they've improved their TVs, and half decent 1080p and up should be able to look sharp.

I think you mentioned this earlier, saying that a projector, having a larger image, should need more sharpening. In photography, the opposite is true. The large the image, the less sharpening you need. I'd imagine the same is true for moving images.
You’re moving away from the point I’m making.

Why does my photo of the oled of the same scene looks incredibly more sharp than luminated? Given his camera was able to capture detail on the Epson, I find it hard to believe it couldn’t on the oled.

either settings could be improved on his TV or OLEDs have improved in sharpness over the years. The difference between my photo and his OLED photo is huge. His OLED photo is not representative of all for what I see in real life of a 77 inch oled from 2.8m away.

The wider point in trying to make is his comparison photo of the OLED and the Epson seems to be massively misleading in regards to the sharpness difference between the two products.
 

sebna

Well-known Member
either settings could be improved on his TV or OLEDs have improved in sharpness.
They did not. At least not between C6 and C9 generations as i have both at home and use them daily. There is no difference in sharpness between them.
 

kenshingintoki

Distinguished Member
They did not. At least not between C6 and C9 generations as i have both at home and use them daily. There is no difference in sharpness between them.
I see. I was honestly shocked when I saw his photo comparison between the Epson and LG because I’ve owned both and not for one second did I feel, past the artificial sharpening, was the OLED soft at all.

that’s why I took photos of the same exact scene from my end

To the contrary, the OLED always feels and looks close to reference whilst the Epson felt like it was winging it with the picture in HDR and sharpness as its not a native 4K panel so we adjust sharpness to taste.
 

Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
You’re moving away from the point I’m making.
Not intentionally.

Why does my photo of the oled of the same scene looks incredibly more sharp than luminated? Given his camera was able to capture detail on the Epson, I find it hard to believe it couldn’t on the oled.

either settings could be improved on his TV or OLEDs have improved in sharpness over the years.
I don't believe it can be down to improved sharpness on TVs. The sharpness on my old HD ready TVs is fine.

The wider point in trying to make is his comparison photo of the OLED and the Epson seems to be massively misleading in regards to the sharpness difference between the two products.
Indeed.
 

Luminated67

Well-known Member
When I took my two images one from the Epson and one from the LG was to compare both with similar levels of enhancement rather than the max on each.

The Epson was set to e-shift On, image enhancement preset 3 and default sharpness 5, in fact if you move the Epson’s sharpness much higher you notice changes to the edges and lines. The LG was sharpness 25 which is half way on my TV and super resolution to medium.

I honestly don’t know if there’s any other settings on the LG that’s adjustable to change this?

Here’s my images of the scene again with the Epson along side the same image (maybe a second of so apart) from a fellow member on AVS with his Sony Laser 4K.

D4B5C0C1-5970-40DA-8A24-E465645DD2B8.jpeg
B883EFC6-931F-42E6-93CB-EAEBD9BD14F9.jpeg

My Bluray was 1080p and his 4K so I reckon that and the combination of a native 4K panel makes the image smoother but to my eyes they are remarkably similar.
 
Last edited:

ONEDGE

Novice Member
I've got a 120" screen & it's plenty large enough. The room measures 7M x 4M with three seats at the front & four in the rear. If you're too close to the screen you will suffer from looking from left to right & possibly suffer headaches as it's way too close. When you're too close the clarity isn't as crisp as well. You would have to sit about the 8-10 meter mark to fully enjoy that size screen so your eye's can absorb the information. Hope this helps
 

kenshingintoki

Distinguished Member
When I took my two images one from the Epson and one from the LG was to compare both with similar levels of enhancement rather than the max on each.

The Epson was set to e-shift On, image enhancement preset 3 and default sharpness 5, in fact if you move the Epson’s sharpness much higher you notice changes to the edges and lines. The LG was sharpness 25 which is half way on my TV and super resolution to medium.

I honestly don’t know if there’s any other settings on the LG that’s adjustable to change this?

Here’s my images of the scene again with the Epson along side the same image (maybe a second of so apart) from a fellow member on AVS with his Sony Laser 4K.

View attachment 1343785View attachment 1343786
My Bluray was 1080p and his 4K so I reckon that and the combination of a native 4K panel makes the image smoother but to my eyes they are remarkably similar.
I'm not questioning the Epson image. The epson with the artificial sharpening can make anything look 'sharp' albiet have a lot of artifacts in other scenes and especially in movement.

It's the LG image which just doesn't match up to my findings with another LG Set.
 

Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
I've got a 120" screen & it's plenty large enough. The room measures 7M x 4M with three seats at the front & four in the rear.
Nice room. How far are the front and rear seats from the screen?

You would have to sit about the 8-10 meter mark to fully enjoy that size screen
Eh? 8 metres from a 150" screen would be like 6.4 metres from your 120" screen. You're best seats aren't 6.4m from the screen are they?
 

Luminated67

Well-known Member
I'm not questioning the Epson image. The epson with the artificial sharpening can make anything look 'sharp' albiet have a lot of artifacts in other scenes and especially in movement.

It's the LG image which just doesn't match up to my findings with another LG Set.
Then my LG is sub standard because the above settings is what I used for my photo and did the same method for trying to capture like for like as I seen it on the screen. It does actually look crisper to the eye but I don’t believe there’s a way of softening an image on the iPhone. LOL

p.s. Just measured where I took the photo of the LG image and because of a coffee table I was actually 3m back which would effect the photo so I intend to take it again tonight when dark and will post it later. 👍
 
Last edited:

Luminated67

Well-known Member
Nice room. How far are the front and rear seats from the screen?
Three rows on a 120” screen, I can only assume the front row starts at 3m head position and above 1.2M back for each row. Would be a class setup and I wish I had had the room to accommodate an additional row but there’s a room off the back of my movie room that houses the smart home gear. 😕

Eh? 8 metres from a 150" screen would be like 6.4 metres from your 120" screen. You're best seats aren't 6.4m from the screen are they?
I think his statement was a bit tongue in cheek.
 

Luminated67

Well-known Member

Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
Oh I am but if a pile want to watch I need to bring in some bean bags.
Every now and then I consider making ours a single row affair, because adding a rear riser means adding a 3rd door to the room (don't ask). But I feel that as the kids grow up we'll want to have more people in the room sometimes, so I'm still going with 2 rows.

How many are in your 'pile'?
 

Luminated67

Well-known Member
Every now and then I consider making ours a single row affair, because adding a rear riser means adding a 3rd door to the room (don't ask). But I feel that as the kids grow up we'll want to have more people in the room sometimes, so I'm still going with 2 rows.

About our ads

You may also like

How many are in your 'pile'?
When I built our new house 4 years ago I already had the room above the family room and our good room mapped out for home theatre use because it was well away from the bedroom end and meant I could easily watch a movie at normal volume and not disturb anyone whilst they slept but the wife decided she wanted a vaulted section in the family room. BTW I suggested a dropped down section with an led around it but was overruled, anything for an easy life. LOL

2058DC18-D3B9-4EC2-BAF9-8F8CC7497CD0.jpeg


This robbed about 9” off the ceiling height in the movie room. So even if I had the space to have a second row the raised floor would be robbing more from the already low ceiling height.

There’s very seldom more than two people watching a movie in my room, the wife isn’t really into movies and hates the noise and the son in the chair comes up occasionally but his concentration isn’t the best so after about an hour he usually is bored and heads back down.

But occasionally his twin has mates round and there could be 5-6 of them up watch a movie and on those occasions they move the seats back a little to accommodate the bean bags.
 

sebna

Well-known Member
Me?

I’d cover the walls and ceilings in velvet! 🤣

Not sure what options you’ve got with different gain screens if you decide to go AT.
What gain should I be aiming for? I thought I will start with basic cheap and cheerful fixed frame 1.0 gain from amazon and depending on how it works in the room I will either look for ALR or treating the room... already started mentioning to wife that black is very trendy ;) and can look very good on the walls :D... I do not know why she is not buying it :D

You could easily either paint the 2.5M back from your screen in a very dark grey paint or go my route of self adhesive flock for the cinema section of this room and leave the rest light and airy...
I think I might try the self adhesive flock. I have to look in your thread for details of it. I assume it can be removed without damaging the paintwork / wall render underneath? If yes that might be a good option for me.

Out of curiosity what speakers are you looking at?
I think I will try Arendals for C + S + Height. For L + R I will use my Zingali Home Monitors 2.10 which I use in my stereo system. But it will depend on timbre matching. Good news is that Zingali are horn loaded and so are Arendals so at least dispertion will be similiar.

The plan is to start with Zingali L+R powered by their dedicated stereo amp and to order, once everything is installed, Arendal Centre channel to see how is the timbre matching. For the time being for the rest of the 7.2.4 I will use Definitive Technology ProMonitors 1000 until I get rest of the Arendal system if the integration with Zingali is acceptable. If it is not I might go all Arendal and then I would do AT screen as I will not be permanently placing Zingali behind the screen. Subs are 2x Arendal Sub1.

Especially at the beggining of the process it will be one big mix-up but if Zingali do not integrate well with Arendal I can always use my 11 Definitive Tech. Speakers for perfectly timbre matched 7.2.4. Which I will also try for comparison but I would really like to use my Zingali speakers for HT as they are in the same room and would be shame not to use them. They are lovely speakers. The have already given me many hours of listening pleaseure :)

In preparation for Arendals I have bought recently 2nd hand 6 channel amp and what a transformation it has been for DT ProMonitors. It is like night and day. Either they are very power hungry (but in theory they are high efficiency speakers) or either of Denon 3600 or 4500 are not doing well in amplification stage.

When powered by either of mentioned Denon AVRs DT speaekrs were tiring. Now the problem seems to be very much gone, the gained weight and body to the sound and 3D positioning is improved beyond scale. They disappear in the room when previously you could always tell which speaker was playing particular sound.

I never heard such a transformation by swapping AMP but I also never used AVRs for powering speakers before. After that experience I know that I would be better off buying processor + amps...

I assume Denon was under powering them (in 5.1.4 config) because now it is still powering 4 height channels and it is doing better I think. But I also know I will want dedicated amp for height channels at some stage in the future.

So I have few configurations to test.

Agreed it’s like me buying my M5 and having it limited to 60mph. :facepalm:
Haha, yeah you can say so. But I am buying PJ for hopefully 5 years of operation and in that time my room will evolve. I need the gear to be ready for it as I would prefer to avoid spending twice if can avoid it with a bit of planning.
 
Last edited:

sebna

Well-known Member
Hey @sebna,

Didn't read all the conversation here, but I thought I tell you about my setup, which is (I believe) EXACTLY (or pretty close) with what you have and want to accomplish (BTW, I also did not saw your room dimensions either, or couldn't figure them out).

So here are the details of my setup/room:
* Living room
- in an appartment building
- dimensions - windows to the back wall = 4,6 meters, side to side = 4,2 meters, height 2,48 meters

* Screen = EliteScreen electric 150 inch diagonal, 1,1 gain

* Projector(s)
- (old one) Epson EH-TW5200 - 2560 hours on the second lamp
- (new one) Epson EH-TW9400 - 510 hours, since mid November 2019 when I bought it

* The seating = a 3 seats couch, placed about 40 centimeters away from the back wall, and the distance to the surface of the screen from my face is 3,6 meters (measured with an laser measuring device)

With old projector, mounted with an ceiling mount, at about 20 centimeters from ceiling and 10 centimeter from the back wall (to the back of the projector), the screen fills completely, with zoom as almost maximum. Never considered that the image is not enough lighted up, even at day, with light comming from one doorway that I can't (for the moment), cover, which is almost at the back of the room on the left side wall

With new projector (EH-TW9400), mounted on a kind of a shelf, with the projector almost touching the back wall (let's say 1 centimeter distance), the screen (150 inch) can't be filled at maximum zoom, and I would estimate around 110-120 inch diagonal of the image. The image on this one is MUCH brighter and detailed.

I am wearing glasses (miopia since childhood), and NEVER considered my screen too big! Always felt confortable watching anything on it at this size, even if it is not even close of the "sensation/feeling" that I have when I do to IMAX on my preferred places in the theater.
Yet, now I can't watch a TV that would be at the same distance, I would fell like watching a "stamp" by comparison (is good that I "throw out" all TV's I had many years ago ;)). Anyone that come and watched with me, at the first impresion they said it is GINORMOUS/HUGE, but after a little whatching, they said is VERY confortable and when they had to go back to their homes with their TV's, they felt sorry (that's what they said, that they would wanted to have a HUGE screen too).

To also support you with some visualisation of the screen setup, here are some pictures I took several years ago, when at the beginning, when started to build the "home cinema" in the living room, which can be used for both functions, living room and "Home Cinema".
View attachment 1343660
view from the couch, with the screen rolled up, and the drapes almost opened (sorry for the not finished install of the monitor and center speaker ;))

View attachment 1343662
with the drapes (almost "black-out"), closed

View attachment 1343661
and "his majesty", the screen (150 inch diagonal)

View attachment 1343663

View attachment 1343664

Hope this helps!

If you need/want other details, ask away! :)
That is a very nice setup. I would like to do motorized screen but because it is attic conversion it will not work. What are the colour of your walls which we cannot see and the ceiling? I would imagine they are light colours?

Did you ever wanted a bigger screen :D? Do you think a tad bigger screen in your setup would be still fine, not tiring etc.?
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
The flock will peel your paint for sure though probably patchy at best and might (though not sure) leave a little adhesive on the wall.
I see. I was honestly shocked when I saw his photo comparison between the Epson and LG because I’ve owned both and not for one second did I feel, past the artificial sharpening, was the OLED soft at all.

that’s why I took photos of the same exact scene from my end

To the contrary, the OLED always feels and looks close to reference whilst the Epson felt like it was winging it with the picture in HDR and sharpness as its not a native 4K panel so we adjust sharpness to taste.
It’s an absolute nightmare to get off, even from gloss surfaces, I had the blisters to prove it!!!

I wouldn’t recommend trying to remove it unless it is absolutely essential.
 

Luminated67

Well-known Member
It’s an absolute nightmare to get off, even from gloss surfaces, I had the blisters to prove it!!!

I wouldn’t recommend trying to remove it unless it is absolutely essential.
Ive only took it off a painted surface and what happens is it mostly comes away with the top layer of paint, that is paint on the wall, haven’t tried anything else which is why I kept it off the skirting.

Any residue can be sanded off.
 

sebna

Well-known Member
I wonder if same can be found but with less permanent adhesive.
 

sebna

Well-known Member
It’s this extreme stickiness that keeps it up there, especially on the ceiling.
Makes sense. I just would like to have a cake and eat it :D

Good news is, this is how progress is made ;)
 

The latest video from AVForums

The Best Movies and TV Shows Coming To Amazon Prime Video in August 2020. Tom's Thumbs.

Trending threads

Latest News

Linn announces Majik DSM digital streamer upgrade
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Sony announces WH-1000XM4 noise cancelling headphones
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
McIntosh launches C22 Mk V preamp and MC1502 power amplifier
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Marantz unveils 12 Series Special Edition models
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Samsung Galaxy Note 20 smart phone models launched
  • By Andy Bassett
  • Published
Top Bottom