Question Is 150" too big for my space? and other questions :)

sebna

Member
All front wall: definitely, yes. You're not supposed to get sound from the front that has come from side, rear or atmos speakers.
Back wall: It's not so much 'careful', as the fact that a bit of reflected sound off the back wall from the side surrounds etc can help create spaciousness.

How would I feel - am I moving in? :laugh:
Maybe just start with half of that, in the centre, and see how you go? But if you did do 50-60%, it's not going to be awful. But less could be better, and some diffusion instead of all absorption would almost certainly be better.

Makes sense.

No, sorry, but I'm sure others will. I'll make my own. I believe you really want them quite deep (more than 10cm) to work well (low frequencies).

Do you have a blueprint you will follow? With my new toy (mitre saw) I could easily create few from wood. They will weight a tone but should do the job.

EDIT: Ok, found something like this which would work well with the tools I have: How to Build an Acoustic Diffuser — And Why You Need Diffusion – Soundfly

Well it's the centre channel that benefit most from being behind a screen. It wouldn't matter if your L&R are to the sides of the screen (it does depend what angle that would create at the listening position - something from 45 to 60 degrees would be good).

If you can benefit from your towers elsewhere, then yeah, get 3 matching speakers behind the screen. But if you don't need the towers elsewhere, or budget doesn't allow, then the towers either side with something with as close a sound to them as possible in the centre would be good. Please don't have a horizontal speaker behind an AT screen (although it can be fine if you watch films on your own).

Now, you have thrown a spanner into my plans :D. Putting C behind AT sounds like a nice middle ground solution. I have to take some distance measurements in how it would impact seating position, max zoom of PJ etc. and I would have to find new AT screen but that would be great option. Also allowing me to easily add L + R behind the screen in the future if I feel like it. Just makes the whole operation a bigger job. But probably well worth it.
 
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sebna

Member
Measure from a single spot, each speaker, full range (including subs), with a fixed level. Then look at your waterfalls and see how long the decay is. Then, when your panels are in and up (although they'll have an effect even just stood against the wall) take the same measurements from about the same spot at the same level. Then you can compare the before and after decay times to see the effect the panels are having.

Great. I will do that. I will start with making panels first before doing front and back wall so I will take measurements with them in place first. Should be interesting.
 

Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
Do you have a blueprint you will follow? With my new toy (mitre saw) I could easily create few from wood. They will weight a tone but should do the job.
I'm toying with a few options. In no particular order:
a) Putting a load of 2 x 2 together, at varying heights and angles (similar to so shop bought ones I've seen). I'd use off-cuts I have left over. They'd go in a frame which would be covered with MVEL. They'd weight some.
This would be a 3d diffuser (the others 2d).
b) Bending a sheet of thin ply or something, to create a semi-circle/half column. This would require a good 6" depth I reckon.
c) Making combo panels - insulation inside, with a wooden cover, which I cut holes in (like GEK). I'd cover it with MVEL
d) Same as c, but just covering the panel with strips of wood, of varying width. Easy option.
e) Similar to a, but 2d not 3d - lengths of timber of varying width and depth, but all would be full length (ie, the length of the panel).

I'll see what materials I have left over, and see what I fancy making.
In my ceiling, I'll have loads of space between lower joists, so I can fit something deep there if needed.


Now, you have thrown a spanner into my plans :D. Putting C behind AT sounds like a nice middle ground solution.
It's the only one that matters, because under or over the screen just isn't as good.

I have to take some distance measurements in how it would impact seating position, max zoom of PJ etc. and I would have to find new AT screen but that would be great option.
If a DIY screen is an option, I'd recommend Seymour. Double check your exact seating distance before choosing which material suits your needs most - UF or XD.

Also allowing me to easily add L + R behind the screen in the future if I feel like it. Just makes the whole operation a bigger job. But probably well worth it.
Well we all have to stop this mad journey somewhere - well, ok, some (cough Mark cough) don't ever stop :laugh: but if you can have your centre behind an AT screen, I think it's well worth it.

Is there a suitable speaker you could match with your towers (for sound, not size)? Or would you think of 3 identical speakers?
 

Owl40

Active Member
Just checking in my 2 cents on this Seb as I went thru the same decision process as you last summer. Putting the speakers behind an AT screen was the best decision I’ve made in my journey so far. If you just put the centre behind but at ear level you will notice vocal intelligibility hugely improves.

Im pleased with my home made absorption panels which are a bit rough and ready but not noticeable when the lights go out.
 

sebna

Member
I'm toying with a few options. In no particular order:
a) Putting a load of 2 x 2 together, at varying heights and angles (similar to so shop bought ones I've seen). I'd use off-cuts I have left over. They'd go in a frame which would be covered with MVEL. They'd weight some.
This would be a 3d diffuser (the others 2d).
b) Bending a sheet of thin ply or something, to create a semi-circle/half column. This would require a good 6" depth I reckon.
c) Making combo panels - insulation inside, with a wooden cover, which I cut holes in (like GEK). I'd cover it with MVEL
d) Same as c, but just covering the panel with strips of wood, of varying width. Easy option.
e) Similar to a, but 2d not 3d - lengths of timber of varying width and depth, but all would be full length (ie, the length of the panel).

I'll see what materials I have left over, and see what I fancy making.
In my ceiling, I'll have loads of space between lower joists, so I can fit something deep there if needed.

Ok that is plenty of ideas. I was thinking about maybe going for something like this instruction covers: How to Build an Acoustic Diffuser — And Why You Need Diffusion – Soundfly but when I showed it to my wife she urged me to just buy something off-the shelf :D as she thought it is way too much work for the market value those go for. If I would made it from wood the weight could be also an issue.

An example pack of 6 but there is plenty of choice from different shops.

I don't even know wood prices those days. I heard the prices has doubled from per-pandemic levels so I have to take a look what makes sense and what does not.

If a DIY screen is an option, I'd recommend Seymour. Double check your exact seating distance before choosing which material suits your needs most - UF or XD.

I have do some reading about different options but Saymour would be high on my list. I would probably prefer to go for ready for assemble screen rather then DIY frame but I have to look what is involved with DIY part. Are you going to make aluminum frame for yours? I guess you have to trim off excess screen fabric?

Well we all have to stop this mad journey somewhere - well, ok, some (cough Mark cough) don't ever stop :laugh: but if you can have your centre behind an AT screen, I think it's well worth it.

I am very tempted. I will be doing distance measurements etc. this weekend to see how would it play out in my room and what max screen size I could accommodate when factored in that it would be placed deeper into the room. I am close to max zoom with my current 133" so probably I would have to scale down a bit.

Is there a suitable speaker you could match with your towers (for sound, not size)? Or would you think of 3 identical speakers?

I have number of options:

1. I can have LCR of Arendals (I have 3x 1723s Monitor), in which case they would be all hidden behind the AT screen
2. I can have LCR of Zingali as I have matching series of center to my towers (center is smaller driver size but they are very, very good match. In this case only center would be behind the screen but there is a technical issue. As Home Monitor series have elliptical horn it means that center should be placed in horizontal position not vertically. Hmm.
3. I can stay in current config of speakers so Arendal C behind screen and L / R Zingali

If I will be going with AT screen I will prepare space behind to accommodate all 3 configs so I can mix and match and test them all. Best config will stay.

Zingali Center is certainly after though and not dedicated design as towers are and can have a bit harsh top end at times. I love the matching with L/R Zingali but if adapting room acoustically will not address the problem I will probably keep using Arendal C. If it becomes more tamed after all acoustic panels are in place then I can see if I could flip the horn arrangement to allow for it to stand in vertical position.

So number of options and I am looking forward to testing them all. I just need to make sure that I accommodate for them all when implementing final design.
 

sebna

Member
Just checking in my 2 cents on this Seb as I went thru the same decision process as you last summer. Putting the speakers behind an AT screen was the best decision I’ve made in my journey so far. If you just put the centre behind but at ear level you will notice vocal intelligibility hugely improves.

Im pleased with my home made absorption panels which are a bit rough and ready but not noticeable when the lights go out.

Thank you, first hand experience is always the best. Everyone who have done it seems to be of same opinion so I do not think I can go wrong with it, it is just the question of if I am up for bigger project than I thought I will be going for. Especially I am not looking forward to getting a new screen and recalculating position of height channels if I would need to move the seats. But I should really go with the flow and get it done when I will be doing already so many other things in the room.

Do I remember correctly that you got your screen from Ricki?
 

Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
Ok that is plenty of ideas. I was thinking about maybe going for something like this instruction covers: How to Build an Acoustic Diffuser — And Why You Need Diffusion – Soundfly
Yeah, that's what I was describing for a).

but when I showed it to my wife she urged me to just buy something off-the shelf :D as she thought it is way too much work for the market value those go for. If I would made it from wood the weight could be also an issue.

An example pack of 6 but there is plenty of choice from different shops.
That's a good price, I could go for those.


I don't even know wood prices those days. I heard the prices has doubled from per-pandemic levels so I have to take a look what makes sense and what does not.
Yeah prices are crazy. I'd just make them with off-cuts of what I have though.


I have do some reading about different options but Saymour would be high on my list. I would probably prefer to go for ready for assemble screen rather then DIY frame but I have to look what is involved with DIY part. Are you going to make aluminum frame for yours? I guess you have to trim off excess screen fabric?
I replied to your pm. Wood, with fabric wrapped around and stapled at the back. No need for trimming, as the excess would be on the back.

I am very tempted. I will be doing distance measurements etc. this weekend to see how would it play out in my room and what max screen size I could accommodate when factored in that it would be placed deeper into the room.
Yeah, let us know all your measurements.


I have number of options:

1. I can have LCR of Arendals (I have 3x 1723s Monitor), in which case they would be all hidden behind the AT screen
2. I can have LCR of Zingali as I have matching series of center to my towers (center is smaller driver size but they are very, very good match. In this case only center would be behind the screen but there is a technical issue. As Home Monitor series have elliptical horn it means that center should be placed in horizontal position not vertically. Hmm.
3. I can stay in current config of speakers so Arendal C behind screen and L / R Zingali

If I will be going with AT screen I will prepare space behind to accommodate all 3 configs so I can mix and match and test them all. Best config will stay.
The problem with space for all configs is if it compromises your screen size/viewing distance. If not, no worries. But you could make the screen and fit it temporarily while you test the speakers.

So you say option 2 is a horizontal centre. Well don't do that (other opinions may vary, but they're wrong :p ). Is the Arendal centre speaker a vertical speaker? For option 3, I have no idea how well they match, but no doubt you can research that?
 

sebna

Member
Not best place to ask to reach a bigger audience but I will post it here before I find the right location for it.

Do any of, I am sure, many Logitech Harmony users got a spare one for the time when the main one will eventually fail?

I am asking as I am considering getting spare one while they are still available here and there.

I am not sure if it makes sense on one hand going by my experience. I have Logitech Harmony One (the first top model) which is now 14-15 years old and still working well on original battery and is used daily in the living room. It lived through number of systems.

I also have Logitech Harmony Elite in the HT room but that one get much less usage. So if going by the life expectancy of my Harmony One I have probably another decade+ of life in my Elite... hmm. But then, they don't make things as they used to ;), do they? So Elite might not be designed to be indestructible like One was.

Did anyone's Elite has failed on them?
 
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mb3195

Distinguished Member
Not best place to ask to reach a bigger audience but I will post it here before I find a right location for it.

Do any of, I am sure, many Logitech Harmony users got a spare one for the time when the main one will eventually fail?

I am asking as I am considering getting spare one while they are still available here and there.

I am not sure if it makes sense on one hand going by my experience. I have Logitech Harmony One (the first top model) which is now 14-15 years old and still working well on original battery and is used daily in the living room. It lived through number of systems.

I also have Logitech Harmony Elite in the HT room but that one get much less usage. So if going by the life expectancy of my Harmony One I have probably another decade+ of life in my Elite... hmm. But then, they don't make things as they used to ;), do they? So Elite might not be designed to be indestructible like One was.

Did anyone's Elite has failed on them?
No me, there is a new remote coming out that looks like it will more than fill the gap left by harmony, in that it’s also Bluetooth compatible.

 

sebna

Member
No me, there is a new remote coming out that looks like it will more than fill the gap left by harmony, in that it’s also Bluetooth compatible.


That was quick Mark :)

I have found the right location for that kind of question and created as quick poll for anybody interested.

Great to now there is an appetite to fill in the gap and by looking at the photo it might have LG magic remote like functionality.

Have to read it about and check what is the projected price.

I am very tempted to get a spare Elite but maybe that is overkill.
 

sebna

Member
I’ll keep using my harmony remotes but I’ll probably get this as well: YIO – Remote

That looks like a very interesting option. Do you have any idea when it might be coming to kickstarter or what price point they are aiming at?
 

Conrad

Moderator
Kickstarter should be up in Q3 this year, I believe shipping is planned for the same time next year.

Pricing should be around €300.
 

Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
Hi Seb

Unfortunately now is the time for a boring part as I have to check them all for any errors. It will be probably around 48h per each HDD and I have 4 to check which means over a week of testing before I will even start using them.... I better get to it.
Do you use HD Tune Pro to test them, or something else? And if it's HD Tune Pro, do you just run a health check?

Thanks
 

sebna

Member
Hi Seb


Do you use HD Tune Pro to test them, or something else? And if it's HD Tune Pro, do you just run a health check?

Thanks
Yes, I use HD Tune Pro and surface test in it. This goes sector by sector and do a true check of HDD.
 
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Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
Yes, I use HD Tune Pro and surface test in it. This goes sector by sector and do a true check of HDD.
Thanks. I've just downloaded it. Could you tell me how to do a surface test?
 

sebna

Member
Thanks. I've just downloaded it. Could you tell me how to do a surface test?

No problem. I think it might be only available in full version of the software but even if so it is not very expensive and it is handy tool to have.

1. Select the right HDD! (or loose X hours on checking the wrong drive :D, don't use this test for SSD drives. It is only suitable and really only makes sense for HDDs).
2 and 3 as per screenshot :) (dont select quick scan you want to do full and long one on new HDDs - if any errors are found, send it back for replacement as faulty).

HDTunePro Surface test.png
 

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