Intel 945 Express and Toshiba 32WLT66 Problem

davik

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I've got an Acer iDea 500 connected to a Toshiba 32WLT66 via HDMI. The acer is running W7, but is otherwise as we bought it (though the power light is always blue now, not that this is the issue. It's running at 1280x768 - the Toshiba is 1366x768, but as far as I can tell, this is not an achievable resolution.

The problem I'm having is that a lot of the time I am having to unplug and plug the HDMI connection from the PC in order to get the display to come on. This is because when the TV is off (or on standby), the PC thinks it has been disconnected (get the device disconnect sound). It doesn't think it's been reconnected once you turn it back on, however, until you unplug and plug it back in.

If the Acer is always put into Away Mode (all output goes off, though it's still running and recording stuff) before the TV is turned off, and the reverse when turning it back on, then the display it alright. If, however, the Acer is woken up, either by us or by the system, before the TV is turned back on, then it thinks the TV is gone, and we have to give it a reach around to get it to come back on.

We used to be able to use a hotkey, set within the Intel Graphics Properties interface, to "Enable Digital Display", which would bring it back on, though this stopped working some time ago, despite the rest of the hotkeys (rotate, open properties window) still functioning as per usual.

Anyone got any ideas? Anyone know if you can force the card to output to that device even if it thinks it's gone? Any and all help would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Joe
 
I have a 32WLT66 and you can get 1360x768, but with VGA but at 85hz only.
Via HDMI your stuffed as 1280x720@30hz is higest combo that works (HDMI's refresh rate seem to be 30hz limited)
If you want 1360x768 go with VGA and set refresh rate to 85hz and it'll work, looks quite nice too.
Wont get anywhere with HDMI sorry, was huge thread in LCD section about this TV and PC use, pain, i got ****** off with it and ended up buying a monitor..
 
On this Intel card, 1360x768 doesn't appear to be supported, even on the DVI output (there is no VGA out, so it's got a DVI-VGA converter on it, going to the VGA on the TV. Would I need to use PowerStrip or something? I thought I'd read somewhere that PS doesn't work on these Intels, though.

Anyone else got any ideas for keeping the display on, assuming I don't switch to VGA?
 
On this Intel card, 1360x768 doesn't appear to be supported, even on the DVI output (there is no VGA out, so it's got a DVI-VGA converter on it, going to the VGA on the TV. Would I need to use PowerStrip or something? I thought I'd read somewhere that PS doesn't work on these Intels, though.

Anyone else got any ideas for keeping the display on, assuming I don't switch to VGA?

Dont know about PS sorry, if you have tried DVI>VGA ? (like mine was) and still cant select 1360x768 then no idea, if u do remem to select 85hz or it wont work properly. Using that will get rid of the problem with HDMI tho.

Dont know about HDMI either as as soon as i plugged it in and found 720p @ 30hz was all i could get i switched straight back to DVI>VGA so didnt use it enuf to know if got that problem.
 
Right, I've switched it to VGA, which has got rid of the turning off issue. It's still running at 1280x768, but the TV has stretched it a little to fill all but a few pixels down one edge (I'd guess 1360 wide). There is a little bit of horizontal pixel stretching due to this, but it's not particularly noticeable. This is running at 85Hz, but I definitely can't see 1360x768 as an option in the Intel Graphics Properties panel.

The only issue now is that there's some horizontal interferance or something on the display. It's not noticable on the darks or where's there's a lot going on, but on any large areas of light colour, it's quite noticable. Does this sound like a problem from just not using a high end cable?
 
Actually, the horizontal lines appear to be related to the refresh rate I set it at. I added 1360x768 on PowerStrip, and it accepted it, but running it at that made it fill wider than the screen, and the aspect ratio options on the TV became unavailable. Similarly, the refresh rate appears to alter how wide the display shows the image. The width of a 1280x768 output varies between 75 and 85Hz.
 
Apologies for the triple post, but things have gone from pretty good to really awful, very quickly.

I was playing around with custom resolutions/refresh rates, trying to get rid of the horizontal flickery lines, mentioned above. I set the refresh rate on the VGA too high, and it the TV just kept flashing, as if it had a signal but kept losing it. Usually this would go back to normal after 15 seconds, but it's not done. I also couldn't get the HDMI to display instead. It's not showing anything now. Something similar happened a bit ago, so I reset the BIOS (d/c'd the CMOS battery), booted it back up, and everything was ok again, that time. This time, I did that, and now it doesn't even appear to be starting up. It's powering up, but I'm getting no visual or audio output (no windows/media centre sounds) or anything. The VFD is still working, however. The VGA connection to the TV is still working, as plugging the laptop into it still worked.

As of now, the Acer is unusable, I think. If this thread now needs to be relocated, or I should start a new one, let me know.
 
Na wont be cable related, Not sure about the lines you mention but must be down to what this TV will accept. Real pain it is.imo.

When using mine i found that only options that will work are..

DVI>VGA 1024x768 @ 60/85hz
1280x720 @30hz (60hz went all pink an weird on me)
1360x768 @ 85hz

DVI>HDMI 1280x720@30hz (again when set to 60hz went all pink or black screen flashing on input)

When set to native 1360x768 took a bit of tweaking on PC settngs in TV menu to get lined up right but does work fine.

Try 1024x768 @60hz via VGA, now i assume you wont be gaming on this so that res shouldnt be a problem and still looks quite decent.
Another option is to buy cheap graphics card possibly an ATi then u can be sure 1360x768 will be available via VGA in Catalyst Crontol Centre panel.

When TV flashes on black screen like u mentioned just means unsupported (what happens at 1360x768 @ 60hz) I had all sorts of problems at times, may have to try system restore to earlier point.
 
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The thing is I can't even get onto anything now. No display, no sound, nothing. It powers up, but other than that there are no signs of life. I may be imagining it, but I think the wireless keyboard dongle we have used to flash as the system was powering up. It's not doing anything now. Pressing delete may be getting me into BIOS, but nothing's coming up on screen. All the while, the VFD plods along happily.
 
Can you power off by holding main power button in then mayb able to get the screen up on nxt boot to go to safe mode to change res to low supported resoultion or restore? Safe mode/Boot windows normally etc screen?
If you power off that way (the wrong way) that screen usually comes up on nxt boot and should display fine even tho nothing is for you now.

It'll be just stuck in non supported res/refresh by the sound of it, i was never able to get into bios (or see it i mean) as just flickered on tv input, sure you know what i mean there.lol

I had similar probs with some games booting at unsupported refresh etc and just peed me off enuf to ditch it for PC use. Totally annoying.
 
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No, I mean it is off. Properly unplugged off. Turning it on just gives no output on either HDMI or VGA.
 
What was the last res setting that was applied? most likely just stuck in one that wont display.
Turn it on and leave it for a bit then power of by holding main power in till shuts down. Hopefully after that safe mode screen will appear fine.

I had exact same problem after testing PC downstarirs on dads TV, no output when used on mine after as was stuck in non displayable mode.

If you cant get that boot windows normally/safe mode screen to appear the unsure what u can do.
 
I'm not sure what the previous res was, but I've tried leaving it off for some time, with the power unplugged. I've even reset the CMOS, but each time, it powers up, but nothing seems to happen. I can't get it to go to the BIOS, or Safe Mode. The VFD just keeps displaying the date (although one now reset to several years back). If it were just a display mode, after some time I should hear the windows login sound, or the media centre sound, neither of which are playing. It doesn't sound like it's doing much, unlike when it's starting up properly - there seems to be little to no hard drive activity.
 
hmm dont know what's happened there then sorry cant be more help.
If u manage to get things sorted try 1024x768 @ 60hz since no gaming should be fine for what you need, probably the best supported res.imo. No hassles with it i had (used thgat before knew 1360 @85hz worked).

Other than that just ditch it for PC like i did, it'll drive you insane. Managed a year or so till just went **** it and got decent monitor and all is well. :)
Pic of mine in sig.
 
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Another point in case anyone's following - the power button for the Acer has 2 LEDs - orange and blue. Originally, when put into "Away Mode", the light would go orange and flash. Since W7, it's just been blue all the time. Powering it up now, both LEDs are lit - I really think something's the matter, other than just display.
 
Ok, a little more info to help spur on some response. Here's what I've tried, none of which have made the damn thing boot up.

1 stick of RAM at a time.
Disconnecting everything other than power and VGA out.
Disconnecting everything other than power.

The hard drive is spinning up, the CPU fan's getting going - everything seems to be getting power, so I doubt it's the PSU.
If it was just visual out that was broken, I'd get sound from Windows Logon/Media Centre etc, so not just the graphics.
Not the RAM - I tested each stick.
Not the HDD that's gone - would get display showing POST, BIOS etc.

Which basically leaves the Motherboard or the CPU, either of which it could be. This sound about right?

If so, I've got 2 options, essentially - plump for a new CPU and see if it works, or take it to a repair shop. This seems to be a custom mobo, or if not, it would be really difficult to replace.

Thoughts?
 

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