Integrated Amp with HT bypass + Sub

Discussion in 'Hi-Fi Stereo Systems & Separates' started by tjsilva, Jan 25, 2018.

  1. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    Hi guys,

    Does Cambridge Azur 851A integrated amp have HT bypass. Saw it in this list online (Amplifiers with HT-bypass - update 03. September 2017), but looking at the back of the amp I cannot see how to do such a connection. Do you know? If it does, is it as straight-forward as other integrated amps that have it, or more complicated?

    Do you guys also know whether Cambridge CXA80 has HT bypass?

    Finally, I am looking for an integrated amp with HT bypass and a subwoofer connection. I am fine with switching my sub from the AV to the stereo amp depending on what I will be doing (movies or music). Is that possible? Looking at amps such as Marantz PM 8005, yamaha A-S1100/2000 and Onkyo A-9070, they all have HT bypass, but it seems to me that there would be no place left to hook up the sub into the integrated amp if I do the HT Bypass.

    Is that right?

    Many thanks in advance

    Thiago
     
  2. Khazul

    Khazul
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    Use the pre-outs to sub's line ins if your sub has that and assuming the line ins don't already double as an LFE in in some way.

    If you don't have independent inputs to the sub, then switching may quickly get annoying because of having to either flip a crossover bypass for AVR use, or worse, have to keep resetting the crossover back to the correct frequency for music use (assuming the crossover control double as LFE bypass).

    I have mine setup for dual use all the time as my sub has separate LFE in and line-ins (which internally mix) and used room eq wizard application and a calibrated measuring mic to do the setup. I still run full base management on the AVR on the fronts, but have the sub's own crossover only set to 40Hz as I am using floor-standers for mains. You may need to use 10dB attenuators on the line-ins to get a rough level match between the AVR's sub out level and the pre-outs level - without them getting the initial level match maybe quite hard, or the AVR may end up struggling with it level matching range, or you end up having the sub's level really low making fine adjustments for music use hard.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2018
  3. Rambles

    Rambles
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    None of the integrated amps that you mention have HT bypass and a subwoofer pre-out. But a few have HT bypass and speaker A and B outputs.

    So, if your subwoofer has speaker inputs (high level in) you could use the speaker B outputs to power the sub from the IA. Then continue to use the RCA pre-out from your AVR to the sub.
     
  4. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    Thanks Khazul and Rambles.


    Apparently, it does. My sub is the Klipsch R115SW. I pasted a picture below of the sub's back. I am currently using L/LFE jack to connect it to my AV Receiver sub pre-out (onkyo RZ820). And all the integrated amps I mentioned above have speaker A and B outputs. Does this mean I could keep my sub to the AV through L/LFE and then that I could use the Line in R to the integrated amp for the stereo set? Would I have to do all the adjustments Khazul mentioned above to keep the set up dual?

    upload_2018-1-25_13-45-51.png
     
  5. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    And just so that you guys know what I am planning to do. I intend to keep my AV receiver (onkyo RZ-820), klipsch RF speakers (280FA, 450C, 250S and 115SW) and then add an integrated amp with HT bypass (still unsure which), turntable and Oppo 205. I pasted below the back connections of my receiver for you to have an idea about what is actually possible.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    And on the integrated amps, currently I believe that my safest and cheapest option would be the Yamaha A-S1000 YAMAHA A-S1000 140 Watt Stereo Integrated Stereo Amplifier

    I am sure it has HT bypass, speakers A and B, but just wanted to confirm I could actually use for my intended set up above.

    But, if any could soul confirm to me if Cambridge Azur 851A and Cambridge CAX80 have HT Bypass, that would be very helpful.

    Many thanks in advance guys!!
     
  7. Rambles

    Rambles
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    Ah, they are not the high level inputs I was referring to, I was thinking more along the lines of actual speaker wire / banana plugs inputs like this:

    maxresdefault — Postimage.org

    There may be a workaround that I am not aware of. But, if not, you would likely need an integrated amp with a sub pre-out, and then an RCA switch so that you could switch the sub between the AVR and the IA as you need to. Something like this:

    tc-7240
     
  8. Khazul

    Khazul
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    For music use with pre-outs you will need both L+R pre-outs connected to ensure the sub can generate the required mono-mix for sub use. I do not see any speaker inputs on that sub.

    Basically this means the switch you use will have to be stereo. Just leave the R unconnected when using from the AVR. You will also have to basically completely re-setup the sub every time you switch use. Personally I would find that way too much trouble to be worth bothering and I would probably quickly end up replacing the sub.

    Re the CA amps an HT bypass support - I think CAX-80 - No, 851A yes, but check on their web site.
    The only integrated amp that comes to mind with a sub out is the Parasound Halo 2.1 Integrated This actually has bass management built in as well so it includes a crossover, however it is much more expensive at around 3k. Also look at the music fidelity integrated amps. Maybe there also have a sub out - I really cant remember.
     
  9. Rambles

    Rambles
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    This discussion reminds me why I run my speakers full range for stereo music. What speakers do you have, is that an option for you?
     
  10. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    I have klipsch RF280FA (and the other klipsch RF home theather speakers to complete the set). Sorry, but what is it to run speakers full range?
     
  11. Khazul

    Khazul
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    Full range is when the entire audio spectrum is sent to a pair of speakers (no sub needed). Given the main speakers you have and also given awkwardness of switching the sub between AVR and a separate amp, you may as well just run those speakers on their own without the sub for music.

    TBH there isn't a huge difference between my floor-standers and having the sub in under them and I dual connect the sub because I can do so easily and have the means to set it up decently, not because there is a huge difference in bass.
     
  12. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    That's a good point Khazul, and thanks for all the detailed inputs on how to dual connect the sub above.

    With my current set up I can already see good bass coming out of it. By adding the integrated amp I am assuming the sound would be so much better that I will be hopefully happy with it without needing the sub. I will carefully check the amps now. Thanks again to you all!
     
  13. Rambles

    Rambles
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    Yes, full range = no cut off for the lower frequencies, so no sub. Your front speakers are rated as going as low as 32hz, which should be fine. If you feel that the bass is lacking, tweaking the speaker positioning could help (closer to a wall generally gives more bass).

    Ordinarily I would suggest making sure there is plenty of headroom / power available to the speakers when running them full range, so maybe adding a power amp. But those Klipsch have a sensitivity rating of 96 db, which is unusually high. So, they should be easy to drive and may not need as much headroom.
     
  14. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    great, thank you Rambles. yeah, I will try that out before considering adding the sub to the stereo system I am envisaging. I am researching the integrated amps now and so far best options for me seem to be cambridge Azur 851A ($1500), yamaha AS-1000 ($1000) or Marantz PM 8005 ($800). I am reading reviews and other posts here to make an informed decision. Cambridge seem to be better and worth the extra money. But, don't know for sure yet.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2018
  15. Hixs

    Hixs
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    Not sure why you'd pick the older A-S1000 over the newer A-S1100?
     
  16. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    just price. The AS-1100 for some reason is priced at $2500. For that money I d probably go for the Cambridge and save $1000, don't u agree?
     
  17. tjsilva

    tjsilva
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    but if the yamaha AS-1000 (or Marantz PM 8005) delivers the stereo quality I am expecting then that would be perfect. Would save some extra bucks for the turntable, oppo 205 and probably a streamer (Cambridge CXN)
     

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