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instructions on remote

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by gifford, Mar 11, 2002.

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  1. gifford

    gifford
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    Hello fellow enthusiasts:

    I would grateful for some advice and if possible a web pointer or e-mail for instructions on the various butons on the Seleco service remote RC3000. I acquired one of these for my Seleco SVP350 so that I can do some touchup convergence and tweaking.

    Additionally, would someone advise how difficult is it to setup the projector as I will have to move it to another room and will be using a larger screen. Ideally I would like to set the banks up for constant height variable width viewing.

    I do not have access to a technician to set up where I live (300km from the nearest major city) and the company who set up initially went out of business.

    The manual isnt all that clear on some issues, so I would need to obtain advice on what order I do things in. I have all the original shims , the projector is set for 100" diagonal screen, and will be reset for a 16:9 2.7m width by 1.5m high matte screen.

    Also (sorry for this long post) would the projector benefit from using RGB rather than s-video (in which case I will need to get a compenent to RGB signal converter? as the DVD has component)

    cheers, this board has a wealth of info and talented people :)

    bill
     
  2. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    Bill,
    The RC3000 is a nice tool for setting up a 350, its backlight and has some shortcut buttons which save time - eg resetting the deflection settings. However, the ordinary handset will do just fine for setting up.

    All convergence work is done by tweaking little adjusters inside the projector. Tip: Use a plastic or copper screw driver. The electronics are sensitive to iron and steel; it distorts the settings.

    A word on your screen size. 2.7 metres (8ft 10in) is a massive screen for a 350. You'll get an image, but it won't be as bright or punchy as something around the 2.2m wide mark. Have you already bought the screen?
     
  3. gifford

    gifford
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    Hi Chris,

    I know the user remote will do the job however, the RC 3000 offers shortcuts as you say without having to go through the menu levels. Also it is backlit which is a boon to use in the dark.

    However, I was wondering if the remote came with an instruction manual? Mine was just in a box with nothing else. Why projector manufacturers persist in plain remotes is beyond me!

    Thanks for the tip on the screwdriver, all I need now is to know which order to do the job when I shift it. Getting the physical geometry of the projector and screen is a piece of cake, I even have downloaded the software which gives the actual measurements for the various selecos.

    As to the screen size, I have seen a similar seleco (350+ in that case) which had the 120" screen width and the picture was quite bright. I only wish to see Ben-Hur, and other films which use the larger aspect ratios at around the same relative size as the 4:3 stuff. The subjective immersion is important to me.

    Incidentally the current picture on my screen is bright enough, the original techie had to turn all the brightness and contrast settings down to 40 and 55 resp. Out of the box they were wound up high!

    Since we use PAL and anamorphic on most inputs it is amazing how little the scan lines intrude (generally only on fast moving pans) even at 3m. NTSC is of course noticeable, I wish I could afford a higher scan PJ but they are expensive in OZ and very few ISF type techies around certainly not close to moi..

    Thanks for the tips Chris, it is always good to read your views and that of the other chaps with the knowledge (sound like a cab driver don't I).

    If anyone has more snippets please chime in.

    cheers

    Bill H:D
     
  4. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    Instructions about using the remote are covered in the projector manual.

    Screen Ratios
    350s share the same deflection software as more expensive Seleco projectors, but the convergence is done manually.

    Depending on your model, you may be able to set pretty accurate convergence for 4:3 and 16:9 in both NTSC and PAL. You won't be able to set more ratios than that even though the deflection menu gives 5 options. For this you would need the more expensive all digital convergence models like 400 420 450 etc.

    This means you have to stick with 16:9 and 4:3 (Letterbox) on your 16:9 screen. Any full frame 4:3 films will spill over the top and bottom of a 16:9 screen.


    Other tools you'll need:

    A long reach (30-40cm) Philips No# 2 screwdriver. These are easy to get at car accessory shops in the UK.

    Shorting Links. The first gen of 350s had little PC type jumpers that need to be bridged so that the convergence settings are bypassed temporarily while you move the red and blue lenses. Newer 350s use little switches instead.

    Order of business.
    Check for any mild tube burn around the image by backing off the BLANKING controls. You may see a brighter border around the edge of the enlarged image. If so, you'll need to put the projector a few inches further back than the new screen size would dictate.

    Hang the projector and set it up parallel to the new screen surface.

    Feed with NTSC on a 4:3 bank. Rough focus GREEN tube. Reset deflection. Use CENTRE CROSS test pattern to adjust projector tilt until cross sits at V centre of screen. Lock off bracket.

    Shim green lens and focus Centre and Corners. Use same Vertical angle shims for R & B lenses (correct for screen size). Remember, the guide is set for 4:3 screens measured diagonally. Treat your 16:9 screen as a 4:3 width and work out the equivalent 4:3 diagonal size.

    Focus R & B tubes, then bypass convergence settings and manually adjust tubes (R&B only) until R G & B line up near perfect at centre of cross hairs. On your screen you should get a white cross at least 20 cm x 20 cm. The rest of the image will be out of convergence. Reset the bypasses so convergence works again.

    Use a grid pattern and set the deflection using just the green tube (R & B covered or off). It is possible to get a near perfect grid with very little bow on the border areas. Memorise your settings.

    Start convergence with R tube first. Work your way out from the centre cross, finishing with the corners last.

    Repeat for B tube. Then set BLANKING and memorise.

    Repeat Deflection and Convergence steps for a 16:9 NTSC image. Use the dedicated 16:9 (widescreen) convergence pots only. Then set BLANKING and memorise.

    Now feed projector with a PAL image. Switch to a 4:3 memory bank, then use DATA COPY from NTSC 4:3 to PAL 4:3. Memorise.

    Trim deflection if needed and adjust blanking. Memorise.

    Repeat for PAL 16:9.

    This is a very much condensed version of set-up, but the basic structure is correct.

    Regards
     
  5. gifford

    gifford
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    chris,

    thank you for the methodology. My 350 has the switches so that should be less fiddly.

    It was the order I needed. One thing though you mention bypassing the convergence to manually adjusting the tubes and then resetting the bypass? is there a switch I missed?.

    Other than that bit of confusion, I should be able to do it.

    Setting greyscale and the colour is relatively okay. I can roughly get it close with the AVIA and Essentials disks and then hopefully I can commandeer a colour analyser again for a couple of hours.

    thank you muchly.

    Bill:)
     
  6. delta

    delta
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    There is some excellent information in this thread which shows just how useful these forums can be.
     
  7. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    Whenever you converge a Seleco CRT it is important to reset all the convergence settings to their mid positions before aligning the R & B tubes to the green. This is easy with a digital convergence chassis (SVP390, 400, 420 etc) - just press reset and everything goes back to middle. But the 350 uses little screw adjusters (pots) for trimming the convergence. Pressing reset won't alter their positions. As a result the lens alignment will be inaccurate.

    Your choices are either tweak each R & B convergence pot to centre, or flick a little switch to neutralise their settings temporarily. This is a bit like Reset on a digital chassis but the pots aren't reset, the projector just ignores their effect for a little while.

    There are 6 switches in a row located on the convergence board. From lens to hinge, the order is Red H, Red V, Green H, Green V, Blue H, Blue V.

    You'll only need to use R & B.

    Regards
     
  8. gifford

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    Chris,

    I wish there were more people like you close to home.

    thank you!

    regards

    Bill:)
     
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