Ikea Tupplur blind as projector screen

shroud

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We've been using a 2m wide Ikea Tupplur blind as a projector screen for about a month now. The reason why we went with this cheap option is that mounting a real projector screen on our wall would require some more planning due to the size of the case and the overall weight. I'll spare you the details, but we decided that for the moment it was much easier to get the smaller and lighter Tupplur as a temporary screen, so that we don't have to wait any longer before enjoying some movies.

Overall the image looks pretty good to us. We went for the grey version of Tupplur, and the brightness is still quite good even as we are constantly using our projector in "eco" mode. It is of course darker than the TV, but actually not that much. On the other hand, I think the grey screen is actually helping us a lot getting good darkness level from our low-end projector. This was the reason why we picked the grey Tupplur over the white one, because our living room is not pitch dark. The screen also doesn't have any ripple, and we don't notice any texture while watching.

However it does have one bad flaw... it's not really flat near the edges. It clearly bends forward both on the left and right side equally. Because of this, you can see that the top edge of the projected picture is not straight horizontally, but "bends down" a few inches, starting around 20cm from the edge.

I was wondering if anyone else using an Ikea Tupplur as a screen had the same problem, and if you have found a way to lessen the effect. For instance, if I gently grab one of the screen's top-side corners with my hand and pull it outward even just a little bit, this creates enough tension to make the screen a lot more flat, and the bad effect disappears. I wonder if there's any hack to create this tension more permanently.
 
Have you thought about sticking more weight in the channel at the bottom that has the little bits of wood in it? That might help. Maybe some metal bar.
 
Have you thought about sticking more weight in the channel at the bottom that has the little bits of wood in it? That might help. Maybe some metal bar.

Yes i noticed from an old thread someone doing that, but it doesn't seem that pulling more downward would have any effect. Instead even a small pull of the side edges *outwards* gives a great improvement.
 
The other thing which was done to fixed screens in another thread was to stitch thin tension thread from the outside edges round the back of the screen.
 
The other thing which was done to fixed screens in another thread was to stitch thin tension thread from the outside edges round the back of the screen.

Ok, that's an idea that I can try!

I've also found a thread with an alternative based on clipping threads along the sides of the screen, with a weight at the bottom, in such a way to redirect the downward pull of the weight also outward: DIY Tab Tensioning

I might have to think carefully how can I apply either ideas to a screen which is rolled back after each use. It might be simply a matter of using clamps that can be easily detached each time.
 
Hi, I resolved this for an optoma pull down screen that was put away after use, the edges curled and the following worked well, I will provide the full solution and hope there is something that will help in it. Total cost under £20.
You need 2 x long thin bolts, 2 x threaded long thin threaded eyelets, 4 x large and 4 x small key rings all available from wilko or boyes, 2 or 3 mm black nylon cord cut to length, 2 x packs of mini clingons in black, there are 4 in a pack available from www.clingons.co.uk £4.25 a pack + postage, 2 x 32 mm sockets from b and q currently on offer at £1.70 each, small amount of blu tack.
Attach the bolts to the top and eyelets to the bottom of the screen level with the screen. Attach 1 key ring to each clingon making 8 in total. Attach the clingons to the side of the screen equal distances apart with the large key rings at the top and bottom and small in the middle. Attach the cord to the socket any way you like they weigh 500 g, working ground up slot the cord through the eyelet then the key rings and around the bolt at the top and pull until the sockets are just off the ground and wrap the cord round the bolt and secure with the blu tack. The sockets pull the cord which will be curved trying to straighten it causing horizontal force flattening the screen. The clingons are used to create temporary eyelets on tarps and are 2 pieces of plastic that slide together with the screen inbetween and can be easily released. One finished with disassemble you can leave the key rings attached to the clingons. Hope there is something useful here.
 
I've used a black one for a blackout blind for 2 years+ and the material and roller mechanism has lasted well. Only negative, the material collects fingerprints and marks easily.
 

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