If anyone wants advice on gas/central heating/boilers. feel free to ask

liamthefirst

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I have been on this site for a while now and I have noticed I ask a lot of questions and get a lot of very good advice.

Well I'm pretty newish to av so can't help many on that (maybe one day) but one thing I do know about is anything gas/central heating related.

Been doing it since 16 and in 31 now. I work for a big British company (most people like to moan about) and my dad has also worked for same company since the same age. If I don't know something chances are he will. So feel free to ask me for advice.

Liam
 
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Its amazing how many CH/Gas/Plumbing questions that come up in GC. Any chance of a sub forum Mods?
 
There are a few, but not that many
 
Awesome. I am actually researching some boilers now. Was going to settle for Worcester Bosch or a Valliant.
What would you recommend? 1500 sq ft bungalow, 2 bathroom.

Also Intergas were recommend- what's your view on them?

Thanks!
 
On a couple of occasions I've had the boiler not switch off at the time the timer is set to.

On the timer it is showing that the boiler should be off but the boiler hasn't turned off. If I change the temperature on the timer to technically restart the boiler and then drop the temperature the boiler will then go off.

Hope that makes sense.

Any idea whether this will be a boiler or timer problem?
 
shahedz said:
Awesome. I am actually researching some boilers now. Was going to settle for Worcester Bosch or a Valliant.
What would you recommend? 1500 sq ft bungalow, 2 bathroom.

Also Intergas were recommend- what's your view on them?

Thanks!

Can't comment on intergas boilers as iv never come across one yet. But if it was me I would stay away from Lesser known boilers because of part availability.

I would recommend a Worcester green star
 
Lee said:
On a couple of occasions I've had the boiler not switch off at the time the timer is set to.

On the timer it is showing that the boiler should be off but the boiler hasn't turned off. If I change the temperature on the timer to technically restart the boiler and then drop the temperature the boiler will then go off.

Hope that makes sense.

Any idea whether this will be a boiler or timer problem?

Could be a few things what boiler/system have you got? Without knowing i would say my Moneys on you having a normal system and the problem being diverter valve or zone valve sticking.

Let me know Boiler system and will try to help you out.

Liam
 
It's a ideal logic+ boiler with a Solus room thermostat timer that we have in another room that operates the boiler.
 
Can't comment on intergas boilers as iv never come across one yet. But if it was me I would stay away from Lesser known boilers because of part availability.

I would recommend a Worcester green star

Thanks Liam, that's just confirmed it for me. Sticking with the Worcester.
 
Lee said:
It's a ideal logic+ boiler with a Solus room thermostat timer that we have in another room that operates the boiler.

Ok so it's a combi. I guessed wrong. It could be a few things I'm afraid.

So it's a programable roomstat? That would be the first thing I would look at, but without looking its hard to say tbh.

Liam
 
We had Potterton installed 2 years now and I havent had a service on it yet. I know they need an annual service but not sure that is required when they are new. Would you recommend a service this year or can I put it off one more?
 
It is a programable roomstat. I'll get that looked at first. Thanks Liam
 
On a couple of occasions I've had the boiler not switch off at the time the timer is set to.

On the timer it is showing that the boiler should be off but the boiler hasn't turned off. If I change the temperature on the timer to technically restart the boiler and then drop the temperature the boiler will then go off.

Hope that makes sense.

Any idea whether this will be a boiler or timer problem?

I've had this problem with my combi as a result of the diverter valve clogging up and not operating properly.
 
Westindieman said:
We had Potterton installed 2 years now and I havent had a service on it yet. I know they need an annual service but not sure that is required when they are new. Would you recommend a service this year or can I put it off one more?

Although I would say its not as important as it use to be with older boilers I would defiantly get a service check as you don't know how the boiler is burning. It probably fine. But always worth getting a proper check.

A service on a new boiler is very different to an old boiler, as they very rarely need stripping down and cleaning. so shouldn't cost the earth (depends who does it)

Liam
 
Although I would say its not as important as it use to be with older boilers I would defiantly get a service check as you don't know how the boiler is burning. It probably fine. But always worth getting a proper check.

A service on a new boiler is very different to an old boiler, as they very rarely need stripping down and cleaning. so shouldn't cost the earth (depends who does it)

Liam

Also the manufacturer will insist it being serviced every year to keep the warranty. Something to remember with some of the manufacturers offering 5 year warranties now.
 
On a couple of occasions I've had the boiler not switch off at the time the timer is set to.

On the timer it is showing that the boiler should be off but the boiler hasn't turned off. If I change the temperature on the timer to technically restart the boiler and then drop the temperature the boiler will then go off.

Hope that makes sense.

Any idea whether this will be a boiler or timer problem?

Could have an off temperature which is set to high or optimum start which I know Honeywell have. If it has an optimum start the stat will decide when to turn on and off to maintain the set temp that you have it set at. You should be able to disable this in the installer settings.
If you have an off temperature might be worth turning it down. The Honeywell and Drayton ones I fit I always turn the off temp down to 5deg because when customers want the heating off they want it off, they don't expect it to be off but come on if it drops below 16deg.

Could also be external frost protection, this will overide everything if it kicks in. This could be next to your boiler if in a garage/outhouse/loft etc. Or integral to the boiler. Or both!
 
A couple;

I may have an imminent requirement to re-do all the rad pipework downstairs as it's all surface mount. I think it's a concrete floor so will need to chase out paths etc. It's a combi.

What are the 'air space' requirements around the pipes. I probably won't re-concrete them in, just 'cap' them off with a timber lid for future maintenance.

Will use Speedfit.

Also, on another post I did earlier, I asked about having different locations as zones, each with a separately programmed temperature (never got a definitive answer)

zone 1: towel rads, always on 24x7x365
zone 2: upstairs, warmer 24x7xwinter only
zone 3: downstairs, cooler than upstairs 24x7xwinter only

If I had such a system, would I want/need TRVs on each rad? How much would such a programmer cost?

Thanks!
 
There are some very quiet sections on AVF. I know for a fact that a Tradesman section would do incredibly well on this site but can see why Admin haven't done it or wouldn't consider it as that's not really what AVF is about.

Amazing how many Boiler Questions there are. Possibly seasonal?!
 
ldoodle said:
A couple;

I may have an imminent requirement to re-do all the rad pipework downstairs as it's all surface mount. I think it's a concrete floor so will need to chase out paths etc. It's a combi.

What are the 'air space' requirements around the pipes. I probably won't re-concrete them in, just 'cap' them off with a timber lid for future maintenance.

Will use Speedfit.

Not really a requirement just make sure it's properly clipped and not touching the timber as you will get knocking when pipes are heating up or cooling down.

ldoodle said:
Also, on another post I did earlier, I asked about having different locations as zones, each with a separately programmed temperature (never got a definitive answer)

zone 1: towel rads, always on 24x7x365
zone 2: upstairs, warmer 24x7xwinter only
zone 3: downstairs, cooler than upstairs 24x7xwinter only

If I had such a system, would I want/need TRVs on each rad? How much would such a programmer cost?

Thanks!


Different zones like that are good if your starting from scratch. But adding to an existing system would be a pain.

And yes to trv's. Iv got two zones in my house but still like different temperatures In Different rooms.

There are loads of 3 Chanel programmers Not very expensive. The expense is if you were to use wireless programable rooms stats.

So many options tbh. Also alot of work. You need to see how your system is pipped in first.

Liam
 
I had my combi boiler (Worcester - 19 years old/serviced annually) serviced recently but I have found that the water is boiling hot for a few seconds and then goes tepid. The engineers that come out tell me that I should really get a new one but as long as it works, I'm happy to carry on with it until it's knackered.

I'll have to get them back in again to have a look at it but is this the beginning of the end. It's been pretty much trouble free throughout its life AFAIK with only a couple of parts changed at service and a new control unit fitted.
 
ldoodle said:
A couple;


zone 1: towel rads, always on 24x7x365
zone 2: upstairs, warmer 24x7xwinter only
zone 3: downstairs, cooler than upstairs 24x7xwinter only


Thanks!

Forgot to say the best bet with the towel rails would be to add electric timed element.
 
davepuma said:
I had my combi boiler (Worcester - 19 years old/serviced annually) serviced recently but I have found that the water is boiling hot for a few seconds and then goes tepid. The engineers that come out tell me that I should really get a new one but as long as it works, I'm happy to carry on with it until it's knackered.

I'll have to get them back in again to have a look at it but is this the beginning of the end. It's been pretty much trouble free throughout its life AFAIK with only a couple of parts changed at service and a new control unit fitted.

Hi

What model Worcester is it? CDi?

Just because it's old doesn't mean you need a new one.

Could be the thermisteor, diaphragm in the diverter valve or flow switch.

Let me know what model and I will try to help you out.

Liam
 
Worcester RSF 24i Junior.

Pressure gauge on turn-on goes bonkers ever few seconds for a few minutes and then settles down.

Is this a sign of a failed/failing/struggling heat exchanger or could it be something else ? System is sludged and being X800'd ASAP (X400 didn't do that much).

Ta.
 
Flimber said:
Worcester RSF 24i Junior.

Pressure gauge on turn-on goes bonkers ever few seconds for a few minutes and then settles down.

Is this a sign of a failed/failing/struggling heat exchanger or could it be something else ? System is sludged and being X800'd ASAP (X400 didn't do that much).

Ta.

Apart from the gauge "going bonkers" what is the problem.
 
Kettling noise accompanying, clattering sounding like a nunchuck in a washing machine.
 

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