If anyone wants advice on gas/central heating/boilers. feel free to ask

First of all it's an old reg about leaving the loop disconnected. Now it should be left connected.

Could you take a pic and post on here of the valve your having problems finding as on the 824 there is either built in loop or an external one.

View attachment 378528

Anything like that?

Liam

yes mate that looks like it
...i've took a dodgey photo.....taken by pointing the camera blind

you can see in the photo the filling loop has been unscrewed from the boiler and now has a 15mm isolting valve and hose fitted to it by me (going to the sink for now).

regarding the valve/filling loop.........even if it has to be connected......for the water to fill... the valve must just be a valve?........

so in theory if a 15mm isolating valve was fitted between the filling loop and the boiler and turned off the leaking would stop......and when the boiler needed to be re-filled to the 1 ish bar the added 15mm isolating valve could be turned on?

cheers
 

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booyaka said:
Ideal C32 Mini

Your boiler from new was capable of about 13.6L/m. So depends what your cranking your taps down to to get the hot water to flow hot. How old is the boiler?
 
Your boiler from new was capable of about 13.6L/m. So depends what your cranking your taps down to to get the hot water to flow hot. How old is the boiler?

Boiler is maybe around 6/7 years old I think. I have to turn the bath tap down to a very very slow flow to get a decent temp in the water, hence the time it takes to fill it. If I open the hot tap up on the bath fully, it's luke warm water at best.

Had a fiddle with the settings over the 4 years we've been in the house but kind of learned to live with it but it's recently started annoying me again!:p
 
booyaka said:
Boiler is maybe around 6/7 years old I think. I have to turn the bath tap down to a very very slow flow to get a decent temp in the water, hence the time it takes to fill it. If I open the hot tap up on the bath fully, it's luke warm water at best.

Had a fiddle with the settings over the 4 years we've been in the house but kind of learned to live with it but it's recently started annoying me again!:p

So ist been like that for the past 4 years? More than likely a problem tbh.

Do you live in a hard water area? Has your boiler got a scail reducer fitted?

Have you ever had any work done on it for this problem?
 
reevesy said:
yes mate that looks like it
...i've took a dodgey photo.....taken by pointing the camera blind

you can see in the photo the filling loop has been unscrewed from the boiler and now has a 15mm isolting valve and hose fitted to it by me (going to the sink for now).

regarding the valve/filling loop.........even if it has to be connected......for the water to fill... the valve must just be a valve?........

so in theory if a 15mm isolating valve was fitted between the filling loop and the boiler and turned off the leaking would stop......and when the boiler needed to be re-filled to the 1 ish bar the added 15mm isolating valve could be turned on?

cheers

The part you have disconnected the loop from (silver non return valve) you are best changing it for one of these.


image-2073677418.jpg

Problem solved
 
liamthefirst said:
The part you have disconnected the loop from (silver non return valve) you are best changing it for one of these.

Problem solved

If not I will find you the correct part number to order.
 
So ist been like that for the past 4 years? More than likely a problem tbh.

Do you live in a hard water area? Has your boiler got a scail reducer fitted?

Have you ever had any work done on it for this problem?

i know - just lived with it! No to a hard water area, West Coast of Scotland so never had any limescale issues etc. Never had work done on it for this problem. Had to replace ignition circuit board about 2 years ago when that failed but other than that problem free.

I keep thinking about getting "boiler cover" but never been convinced about it (british gas or alike)

As a side issue (but may be part of the issues) - there is a very very slight "white" colour to the hot water, not really noticable but very slight. I guess from my limited knowledge this could be limescale related???
 
booyaka said:
i know - just lived with it! No to a hard water area, West Coast of Scotland so never had any limescale issues etc. Never had work done on it for this problem. Had to replace ignition circuit board about 2 years ago when that failed but other than that problem free.

I keep thinking about getting "boiler cover" but never been convinced about it (british gas or alike)

As a side issue (but may be part of the issues) - there is a very very slight "white" colour to the hot water, not really noticable but very slight. I guess from my limited knowledge this could be limescale related???

Tbh I would get the hot water thermistor changed. Fairly cheap part.

If not hard water area, then that would be the first thing I would change. After testing flow rate with flow cup.
 
The part you have disconnected the loop from (silver non return valve) you are best changing it for one of these.


View attachment 378776

Problem solved

thanks ...though the actual valve thats leaking is the 'brass lump' the loop is still connected to.....or is that the valve you're talking about?

......the brass lump picture you originally posted....or do you mean the above pictured valve will fit?

on the other side of the valve ...that goes into the boiler if you like reduces down to a smaller pipe.....you know the 'mini' type ones that need a 10mm spanner to undo


....are these valves straight forward to replace?....ie mains water off...remove valve and fit new one?

....and going back to what i was wittling on about earlier....is it ok to have my isolating valve fitted between the loop and the leaking valve...or blank it off

....obviously a replacement valve would be fitted if it was easy enough...just wondered if any harm was being done with it as it is

also if you've got some links to the bits mentioned that'll be great

appreciate the help mate.


cheers
 
Tbh I would get the hot water thermistor changed. Fairly cheap part.

If not hard water area, then that would be the first thing I would change. After testing flow rate with flow cup.

ok - thanks - is this something that I need an engineer to do or can it be done by me (assuming it's not crazy technical)

I changed the pcb in about 5 mins myself when that broke last time.
 
Another quick question, Liam, if that's ok

here is a picture of my storage tank


DSCF9831.jpg


what I've noticed happening is the pump in the right hand corner pictured below

DSCF9832.jpg


always seems to be pumping, and it is hot

I'm not sure exactly what it is, or it's function, but I'm pretty sure it shouldnt be pumping all the time? Even when the heating switches itself off for the night I hear the pumping working. OK I havent been awake at 4 in the morning to check that it is still going, but it does seem to be on all the time - so is this normal, might it have a bearing on my existing problem, is it completely unrelated? questions questions ...

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
Simon Crust said:
Another quick question, Liam, if that's ok

here is a picture of my storage tank

what I've noticed happening is the pump in the right hand corner pictured below

always seems to be pumping, and it is hot

I'm not sure exactly what it is, or it's function, but I'm pretty sure it shouldnt be pumping all the time? Even when the heating switches itself off for the night I hear the pumping working. OK I havent been awake at 4 in the morning to check that it is still going, but it does seem to be on all the time - so is this normal, might it have a bearing on my existing problem, is it completely unrelated? questions questions ...

Any ideas?

Thanks

Yes this is not normal. Your boiler does have something called pump overrun. Once heating/hot water turns off the boiler makes the pump continue to run to get rid of the heat and stop the boiler overheating.

I think it's timed on the solo for about 9/10min. After that time the boiler should go off. Providing you pump is wired into the boiler correctly I would say the pcb needs changing.
 
Hi Liam,

I am currently in a rented apartment and we are experience problems with the boiler. It is a Heatrae Sadia, see below

Heatrae Sadia Electric Boiler

The problem is, I keep getting a red flashing on the boiler indicating overheating and lighting up the red alarm display marker. To get rid of this i have to keep turning the boiler off at the mains, it seems to happen if the heating is on for example 22C and it goes off once at that temperature, then if the temp drops the heating auto comes back on and causes the boiler to do what i described.

Also we seem to have boiling red hot water coming out of the kitchen taps but no where near as hot water coming from the bath taps which is on one of them degree turning things which the max being 45C but even then u can fill the bath up with just hot and get it in no problems. Also, our water seems to be very misty unless turned on full and left to run for a couple of seconds.

Finally, What do you suggest is the best way to manage the heating, turn on and off when needed or leave it on and let it go off/on when needed? We currently turn it off at night and during the way rather then leaving it on at say 5C even though the boiler actually aint kicking in or anything.

Cheers
 
thanks ...though the actual valve thats leaking is the 'brass lump' the loop is still connected to.....or is that the valve you're talking about?

......the brass lump picture you originally posted....or do you mean the above pictured valve will fit?

on the other side of the valve ...that goes into the boiler if you like reduces down to a smaller pipe.....you know the 'mini' type ones that need a 10mm spanner to undo


....are these valves straight forward to replace?....ie mains water off...remove valve and fit new one?

....and going back to what i was wittling on about earlier....is it ok to have my isolating valve fitted between the loop and the leaking valve...or blank it off

....obviously a replacement valve would be fitted if it was easy enough...just wondered if any harm was being done with it as it is

also if you've got some links to the bits mentioned that'll be great

appreciate the help mate.


cheers


still cant find the part....or a yes or no answer to just adding a isolating into the equation which would stop the leaking valve ?


cheers
 
Hi

What model Worcester is it? CDi?

Just because it's old doesn't mean you need a new one.

Could be the thermisteor, diaphragm in the diverter valve or flow switch.

Let me know what model and I will try to help you out.

Liam

It's a Worcester 350. I have a service contract so will contact BG in due course to let them have another go at getting it running properly.
 
Right so assuming what you say is correct. You valve may have been stuck or your heating may be coming on with the hot water.

So really if it's all working fine it may have unstuck.

When your next there try the heating on its own and make sure it comes on.

Liam

Liam, just to let you know you we're spot on. Had a local heating engineer round on Saturday and it appears the micro switch for the heating is buggered. However it seems to work ok if the hot eater is on.

He's coming back tomorrow to fit a new one.
 
JFRTDI said:
Hi Liam,

I am currently in a rented apartment and we are experience problems with the boiler. It is a Heatrae Sadia, see below

Heatrae Sadia Electric Boiler

The problem is, I keep getting a red flashing on the boiler indicating overheating and lighting up the red alarm display marker. To get rid of this i have to keep turning the boiler off at the mains, it seems to happen if the heating is on for example 22C and it goes off once at that temperature, then if the temp drops the heating auto comes back on and causes the boiler to do what i described.

Also we seem to have boiling red hot water coming out of the kitchen taps but no where near as hot water coming from the bath taps which is on one of them degree turning things which the max being 45C but even then u can fill the bath up with just hot and get it in no problems. Also, our water seems to be very misty unless turned on full and left to run for a couple of seconds.

Finally, What do you suggest is the best way to manage the heating, turn on and off when needed or leave it on and let it go off/on when needed? We currently turn it off at night and during the way rather then leaving it on at say 5C even though the boiler actually aint kicking in or anything.

Cheers

Sorry don't know anything about electric boilers.

Without knowing anything about your boiler i would make a guess at once your heating reaches temp it go's off but you say when it turned back on is when it overheats? Well sounds like your boiler rests In Hot water position and when the heating comes back on its not switching back to ch. ???

Is the kit tap a mixer? Could be drawing in cold water with the hot? Depends how much the difference is?


There isn't a right or wrong way about setting heating. I personally have my heating timed and set to come on at different temps.

But some people want heating on 24/7.

Completely up to your needs

Liam
 
reevesy said:
still cant find the part....or a yes or no answer to just adding a isolating into the equation which would stop the leaking valve ?

cheers

Part number-h47073
Manufacturers number-190751
Very expensive part! as it comes with the prv

View attachment 379733

Check that looks right.
 
Hi mate - this is very cool

my prolem . Radiator doesnt work

have a 'new' and an 'Old' part of the house. as in original and extension. boiler is new in the extesntion and couple of years old. the non working radiator is down stairs in the 'old'part of the house. all others work fine. Got a tank in the loft - not sure if thats of any use to know. Pipe under the radiator dont get hot , no warmth out of it at all. turned the thermostates on the radiator but cant tell if shutting it off or opening up. all combinations seem no use.

Any idea ?
 
yeah - one on either end - ive turned them and tried diferent combinations with them but nothing. Ive tried bleeding it - full with water - just cold water.
 
wookielover said:
yeah - one on either end - ive turned them and tried diferent combinations with them but nothing. Ive tried bleeding it - full with water - just cold water.

One on each end? Thermostat one side and a thermostat without the head on?

Well more than likely the trv is stuck off. Very easy to fix. (if you know what make it would help). Take the trv head off (normally unscreened but many variations) and there will be a small pin push it gently until it moves. (you push it down and it springs back up). Sometimes you may need to tap the side of the trv to get it moving.

If any problems let me know.

Liam
 
thats right one on each end one without a head on . whats TRV is that the one without a head ?
 
Part number-h47073
Manufacturers number-190751
Very expensive part! as it comes with the prv

View attachment 379733

Check that looks right.

link not working?



without getting all jeremy paxman on you ;)

....whats your thoughts on just keeping the isolating valve in the loop but turning it off...stopping the leak?

as per the photo (hose going into sink so it drips into there)


if needs be another 15mm flexible.....so it would be flexible filling loop connected as it was to the bolier....isolating valve on the end of that.....to that a new flexi hose is connected...the other end ends up connected back onto where the filling loop connects to the boiler again....exactly like it was (problem valve left open) but with an isolating valve in the middle..if that makes sense


then when it comes to the time when the boliers water pressure needs to be raised....you would turn on the added isolating valve to allow mains water to fill the bolier instead of the problem valve which was left open....then turn it off to stop.


understand if you dont want to commit to telling me to do something that is unsafe etc...but thats what i'm trying to find out....if its ok to do or not?
.....if its not then i would'nt do it.

just seems a straight forward easy way to deal with what is essentially a dripping water valve.....and doe'snt cost anything ;)


cheers again for your help.
 

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reevesy said:
link not working?

without getting all jeremy paxman on you ;)

....whats your thoughts on just keeping the isolating valve in the loop but turning it off...stopping the leak?

as per the photo (hose going into sink so it drips into there)

if needs be another 15mm flexible.....so it would be flexible filling loop connected as it was to the bolier....isolating valve on the end of that.....to that a new flexi hose is connected...the other end ends up connected back onto where the filling loop connects to the boiler again....exactly like it was (problem valve left open) but with an isolating valve in the middle..if that makes sense

then when it comes to the time when the boliers water pressure needs to be raised....you would turn on the added isolating valve to allow mains water to fill the bolier instead of the problem valve which was left open....then turn it off to stop.

understand if you dont want to commit to telling me to do something that is unsafe etc...but thats what i'm trying to find out....if its ok to do or not?
.....if its not then i would'nt do it.

just seems a straight forward easy way to deal with what is essentially a dripping water valve.....and doe'snt cost anything ;)

cheers again for your help.

That valve I posted few posts up. Just change the nonreturne valve to that and it's then fixed. No need to have that non return valve and your isolation valve.
 

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