If anyone wants advice on gas/central heating/boilers. feel free to ask

le4thab

Active Member
That’s a no then. Who installed it? That’s really poor (contravenes energy efficiency legislation as well - if I can recall my college days correctly)

Have you bought the nest then?
I’ve never fit one, strictly hive here. Have you got any experience of wiring / running cables / mounting things to tiles etc?
It is a "GOOGLE NEST SMART THERMOSTAT & HOT WATER CONTROL SILVER" bought from Screwfix.

Is it possible that it could be two zones, but i just dont know? I helped run the pipework and only remember it being done off one circuit. Dont remember pipes for downstairs CH and upstairs CH being independant. Am i right in thinking for it to be 2 zones there would be two pipe runs for the CH, up and down so Z1 & Z2?

That video seems straight forward.

It was acually the OH's 'Uncle' who did it. I did the labouring and some of the soldering and running of pipes. He just seemed to destroy everything and leave us with a cold water tap approx 2 foot from the floor for a few weeks.
 

Fergal82

Distinguished Member
It is a "GOOGLE NEST SMART THERMOSTAT & HOT WATER CONTROL SILVER" bought from Screwfix.

Is it possible that it could be two zones, but i just dont know? I helped run the pipework and only remember it being done off one circuit. Dont remember pipes for downstairs CH and upstairs CH being independant. Am i right in thinking for it to be 2 zones there would be two pipe runs for the CH, up and down so Z1 & Z2?

That video seems straight forward.

It was acually the OH's 'Uncle' who did it. I did the labouring and some of the soldering and running of pipes. He just seemed to destroy everything and leave us with a cold water tap approx 2 foot from the floor for a few weeks.
Usually on systems with more than one zone you’ll have two thermostats / clocks meaning you can regulate each zone. If you don’t even have one stat then I doubt you have additional heating zones.

I’ve not used nest so wont comment on what you have / need but make sure you have one suitable for a combi boiler
 

le4thab

Active Member
Usually on systems with more than one zone you’ll have two thermostats / clocks meaning you can regulate each zone. If you don’t even have one stat then I doubt you have additional heating zones.

I’ve not used nest so wont comment on what you have / need but make sure you have one suitable for a combi boiler
Have just spoken to the OH and she remembers him telling her that we can have heating on upstairs and not downstairs, would that indicate 2 zones?
 

Fergal82

Distinguished Member
Have just spoken to the OH and she remembers him telling her that we can have heating on upstairs and not downstairs, would that indicate 2 zones?
I’d find out how your systems been configured and go from there. It sounds like you might have more than one zone though yes
 

jaipal2004

Well-known Member
Hi guys need some advice please:

1.Ferroli Optimax boiler (absolute pile of rubbish)
2.Heatmiser UHF8-RF wiring centre
3.Mixer and pump pack for UFH downstairs
4.2 x two port valves wired for upstairs rads and downstairs UFh

This morning I noticed downstairs was pretty cold so checked and observed boiler seemed to hold on D2 for a long time (never noticed how long before but it appeared to always be on there). I increased the water temp of the heating and this cause the boiler to fire up. It overshot the temp by a good 11 odd degrees - again could be my paranoia but i don’t think it used to be that bad.

Upstairs radiators are working ‘fine’ - no discernible difference in anything there.

The pipe work leading up to the 2 port valve for the rads is too hot to touch (as expected) and on the other side it’s just as hot.

but on the ufh valve - it’s too hot to touch going into it but beyond it although it’s hot it’s not too hot and I can comfortably touch it.

The mixer is set to max and the boiler CH temp is set to 75 just whilst I fault find.

There’s clearly something wrong as downstairs ufh is luke warm on manifold pipes. Question is ..... what ? Is it the two port valve or something else?

Valves are ‘Reliance’ branded and have levers on outside of body. I can manually move the one for rads but the ufh one seems solid.

Look forward to some advice please guys !
 

Fergal82

Distinguished Member
Hi guys need some advice please:

1.Ferroli Optimax boiler (absolute pile of rubbish)
2.Heatmiser UHF8-RF wiring centre
3.Mixer and pump pack for UFH downstairs
4.2 x two port valves wired for upstairs rads and downstairs UFh

This morning I noticed downstairs was pretty cold so checked and observed boiler seemed to hold on D2 for a long time (never noticed how long before but it appeared to always be on there). I increased the water temp of the heating and this cause the boiler to fire up. It overshot the temp by a good 11 odd degrees - again could be my paranoia but i don’t think it used to be that bad.

Upstairs radiators are working ‘fine’ - no discernible difference in anything there.

The pipe work leading up to the 2 port valve for the rads is too hot to touch (as expected) and on the other side it’s just as hot.

but on the ufh valve - it’s too hot to touch going into it but beyond it although it’s hot it’s not too hot and I can comfortably touch it.

The mixer is set to max and the boiler CH temp is set to 75 just whilst I fault find.

There’s clearly something wrong as downstairs ufh is luke warm on manifold pipes. Question is ..... what ? Is it the two port valve or something else?

Valves are ‘Reliance’ branded and have levers on outside of body. I can manually move the one for rads but the ufh one seems solid.

Look forward to some advice please guys !
1. Agree - absolutely terrible 😂

There is a sequence of operations. Usually
Clock > stat > zone valve > pump & boiler

How is the heating controlled for the ufh? Do you have a clock and stat or a programmable stat?

It sounds like your ufh zone valve isn’t opening which is why there is no heat in this circuit. You are going to need to work out why it’s not motoring open.

Have you got a multimeter?
 

jaipal2004

Well-known Member
Hi mate

thanks for responding.

clock, stat etc are all fine and the ufh itself works as it all fires up. I have a multimeter so will check voltage coming in. I am tempted to remove the body off the valve and open it manually - can’t get the lever on the body to budge which also makes me think it’s fubar’d🙄
 

Fergal82

Distinguished Member
Hi mate

thanks for responding.

clock, stat etc are all fine and the ufh itself works as it all fires up. I have a multimeter so will check voltage coming in. I am tempted to remove the body off the valve and open it manually - can’t get the lever on the body to budge which also makes me think it’s fubar’d🙄
If you’re sure it’s the zone valve then next step is to work out whether it’s the motor or the water part that’s jammed (or both)
 

jaipal2004

Well-known Member
If you’re sure it’s the zone valve then next step is to work out whether it’s the motor or the water part that’s jammed (or both)
took off the body and tried to manually open using an adjustable spanner and I didn’t want to force it.Assuming it needs to be parallel to the pipe work (similar to a service valve) - each time I try it pulls back into below resting position.

like i day I don’t want to force it - not sure how many turns these things have ?
 

Fergal82

Distinguished Member
Forgot to attach pic - thanks for help by the way mate

as you can see it looks to be 45 degrees to the pipe work .... assuming parallel to pipes means open and perpendicular means closed ?
It should quarter turn one way or another (when they are new you can move with your fingers)

If you’re getting no movement either way even with a spanner then it suggests it’s seized. With the power off does the spindle on the motor now move and spring back?

The chap above was enquiring about replacing a
Ball plate which is what you’re going to need to do so have a read a couple of posts before yours
 

jaipal2004

Well-known Member
Thanks mate

I am getting movement - it was just moving back to current position after I’d tried to budge it.

I have managed to get the ufh working so it’s definitely the valve. Question is ..... is it the head or the body I guess ?

Given my messing around has caused it to start working (minus the head) should i assume it’s just a dodgy head? In which case I can just whack it on top and consider it a job well done 👍 or should I go for the full replacement?

cheers for help mate
 

Fergal82

Distinguished Member
Thanks mate

I am getting movement - it was just moving back to current position after I’d tried to budge it.

I have managed to get the ufh working so it’s definitely the valve. Question is ..... is it the head or the body I guess ?

Given my messing around has caused it to start working (minus the head) should i assume it’s just a dodgy head? In which case I can just whack it on top and consider it a job well done 👍 or should I go for the full replacement?

cheers for help mate
The head might be ok. Does it move now it’s away from the valve? (Do this with power off I would)

You can change the ball plate and head at very little cost yourself but it depends on whether you want to get involved with it.

I’d be inclined to put the head back on and see how it behaves and go from there
 

jaipal2004

Well-known Member
The manual lever is certainly free now but when I tried testing it with it still off the body and in my hand nothing moved when the wiring centre triggered ufh - same when it turned off ... I could feel a power hum but definitely no moving parts.

Given what you’d said about the valve body only having quarter turns and the fact it’s now working minus head I am concluding it’s the head At fault?

thanks again mate
 

Fergal82

Distinguished Member
The manual lever is certainly free now but when I tried testing it with it still off the body and in my hand nothing moved when the wiring centre triggered ufh - same when it turned off ... I could feel a power hum but definitely no moving parts.

Given what you’d said about the valve body only having quarter turns and the fact it’s now working minus head I am concluding it’s the head At fault?

thanks again mate
If you have a multimeter then you can trace some voltages and prove it’s the head.

Have you got a picture of it?
 

RBZ5416

Distinguished Member
Given what you’d said about the valve body only having quarter turns and the fact it’s now working minus head I am concluding it’s the head At fault?
Assuming that the two valves are the same you could always swap the motor from the other one. Make sure you take pics & notes of wiring though before you start.
 

DrPhil

Distinguished Member
Back with another question...

Getting the bedroom and ensuite renovated, and figured now would be the time to get into some home automation.

One £4k quote later and that idea has been firmly knocked out of me, so I'm looking for alternatives.

On the heating front, I'm looking at smart thermostats. Initially just for the bedroom so 3 needed, but with a view to adding 16 more and covering the whole house.

Any recommendations? I've seen Milan Connect for €30, 12 can be added to the WiFi hub.

Also Curv, with 10 per hub.

Presumably you can add more hubs?

Anyway, any recommendations or advice would be great. Thanks.
 

neilball

Well-known Member
I’d always suggest going for a major brand for heating controls, and check that there normal functionality does not require connection to their cloud unless you are happy that the system is much degraded if there is no internet or their cloud service is down.

So for lower cost smart stats then you could look at Heatmiser Neo. If you want a much more modular system with dedicated controllers/strategy for each type of heating then Honeywell Evo. Both are modular but Evo has “easier” retrofit options that avoid the need for new cabling or plumbing changes. Evo only provides a maximum o f 12 heating zones plus hot water on a single master controller, but you can also create a zone of many rooms if you want to stick to a single controller. Evo is not designed as a DIY home installation product so you’ll not find fully detailed documentation or system design help from Honeywell/Resideo - it’s really set up to be an installer product range, but do check the credentials of any approved installer you may wish to use actually gas the knowledge and a decent portfolio of similar installations before appointing anyone to carry out the work.
 

DrPhil

Distinguished Member
We usually just use oil central heating on a timer, but during the winter we sometimes fire up the slack burner. We leave that on at a low heat 24/7 but after 2 or 3 days the house just gets too hot.im hoping that decent thermostats will help to resolve that.

It sometimes gets too hot in the bedroom or living room with the oil too, and we've tried adjusting the current valves but without much joy. So being able to set the living room and bedroom to a comfortable temperature rather than cooking us while the hallway is still cool would be good.
 
Last edited:

ssbib

Distinguished Member
I know not EXACTLY on topic but I’m hoping someone might be able to help me.

My wife was making pasta this afternoon and before she put the water on the boil she left the flame on the empty pan for a few minutes. When she added the water it made that harsh sound it tends to make and since then ALL our burners are now burning orange. Before this incident they were burning blue as always.

My initial thought was they were blocked but that wouldn’t cause them all to go would it? I gave them a quick clean and it hasn’t helped. Tried letting them burn off for 5 minutes and that hasn’t helped.

What else can I do? I’ve read online that an orange flame could kick off higher levels of CO, is that correct?

Thanks in advanced.
 

Fergal82

Distinguished Member
I know not EXACTLY on topic but I’m hoping someone might be able to help me.

My wife was making pasta this afternoon and before she put the water on the boil she left the flame on the empty pan for a few minutes. When she added the water it made that harsh sound it tends to make and since then ALL our burners are now burning orange. Before this incident they were burning blue as always.

My initial thought was they were blocked but that wouldn’t cause them all to go would it? I gave them a quick clean and it hasn’t helped. Tried letting them burn off for 5 minutes and that hasn’t helped.

What else can I do? I’ve read online that an orange flame could kick off higher levels of CO, is that correct?

Thanks in advanced.
You need a good air/gas mix to get a nice blue flame (remember bunson burners at school when you shut the air flow off!?)

Is the flame wavy? Or just blue with yellow tips?

It’s likely burning the same way it always has if I’m honest, worth checking the injectors are clear either way.

Best thing to do is remove all the burners and give it a good clean. Get some windows open next time you use them to get some air circulating in the kitchen.
 

ssbib

Distinguished Member
You need a good air/gas mix to get a nice blue flame (remember bunson burners at school when you shut the air flow off!?)

Is the flame wavy? Or just blue with yellow tips?

It’s likely burning the same way it always has if I’m honest, worth checking the injectors are clear either way.

Best thing to do is remove all the burners and give it a good clean. Get some windows open next time you use them to get some air circulating in the kitchen.
That’s what I did later on in the day and they’re back to normal now. The biggest one still has a slight yellow tip but looking back I think it was always that way. It’s just weird they all went at once. Glad they’re ok now and thanks for the reply.
 

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