If anyone wants advice on gas/central heating/boilers. feel free to ask

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by liamthefirst, Feb 18, 2013.

  1. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    I have been on this site for a while now and I have noticed I ask a lot of questions and get a lot of very good advice.

    Well I'm pretty newish to av so can't help many on that (maybe one day) but one thing I do know about is anything gas/central heating related.

    Been doing it since 16 and in 31 now. I work for a big British company (most people like to moan about) and my dad has also worked for same company since the same age. If I don't know something chances are he will. So feel free to ask me for advice.

    Liam
     
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  2. danmc_82

    danmc_82
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    Its amazing how many CH/Gas/Plumbing questions that come up in GC. Any chance of a sub forum Mods?
     
  3. John

    John
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    There are a few, but not that many
     
  4. shahedz

    shahedz
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    Awesome. I am actually researching some boilers now. Was going to settle for Worcester Bosch or a Valliant.
    What would you recommend? 1500 sq ft bungalow, 2 bathroom.

    Also Intergas were recommend- what's your view on them?

    Thanks!
     
  5. Lee

    Lee
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    On a couple of occasions I've had the boiler not switch off at the time the timer is set to.

    On the timer it is showing that the boiler should be off but the boiler hasn't turned off. If I change the temperature on the timer to technically restart the boiler and then drop the temperature the boiler will then go off.

    Hope that makes sense.

    Any idea whether this will be a boiler or timer problem?
     
  6. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    Can't comment on intergas boilers as iv never come across one yet. But if it was me I would stay away from Lesser known boilers because of part availability.

    I would recommend a Worcester green star
     
  7. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    Could be a few things what boiler/system have you got? Without knowing i would say my Moneys on you having a normal system and the problem being diverter valve or zone valve sticking.

    Let me know Boiler system and will try to help you out.

    Liam
     
  8. Lee

    Lee
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    It's a ideal logic+ boiler with a Solus room thermostat timer that we have in another room that operates the boiler.
     
  9. shahedz

    shahedz
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    Thanks Liam, that's just confirmed it for me. Sticking with the Worcester.
     
  10. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    Ok so it's a combi. I guessed wrong. It could be a few things I'm afraid.

    So it's a programable roomstat? That would be the first thing I would look at, but without looking its hard to say tbh.

    Liam
     
  11. Westindieman

    Westindieman
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    We had Potterton installed 2 years now and I havent had a service on it yet. I know they need an annual service but not sure that is required when they are new. Would you recommend a service this year or can I put it off one more?
     
  12. Lee

    Lee
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    It is a programable roomstat. I'll get that looked at first. Thanks Liam
     
  13. Epicurus

    Epicurus
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    I've had this problem with my combi as a result of the diverter valve clogging up and not operating properly.
     
  14. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    Although I would say its not as important as it use to be with older boilers I would defiantly get a service check as you don't know how the boiler is burning. It probably fine. But always worth getting a proper check.

    A service on a new boiler is very different to an old boiler, as they very rarely need stripping down and cleaning. so shouldn't cost the earth (depends who does it)

    Liam
     
  15. Andyh4324

    Andyh4324
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    Also the manufacturer will insist it being serviced every year to keep the warranty. Something to remember with some of the manufacturers offering 5 year warranties now.
     
  16. leo79

    leo79
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    Could have an off temperature which is set to high or optimum start which I know Honeywell have. If it has an optimum start the stat will decide when to turn on and off to maintain the set temp that you have it set at. You should be able to disable this in the installer settings.
    If you have an off temperature might be worth turning it down. The Honeywell and Drayton ones I fit I always turn the off temp down to 5deg because when customers want the heating off they want it off, they don't expect it to be off but come on if it drops below 16deg.

    Could also be external frost protection, this will overide everything if it kicks in. This could be next to your boiler if in a garage/outhouse/loft etc. Or integral to the boiler. Or both!
     
  17. ldoodle

    ldoodle
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    A couple;

    I may have an imminent requirement to re-do all the rad pipework downstairs as it's all surface mount. I think it's a concrete floor so will need to chase out paths etc. It's a combi.

    What are the 'air space' requirements around the pipes. I probably won't re-concrete them in, just 'cap' them off with a timber lid for future maintenance.

    Will use Speedfit.

    Also, on another post I did earlier, I asked about having different locations as zones, each with a separately programmed temperature (never got a definitive answer)

    zone 1: towel rads, always on 24x7x365
    zone 2: upstairs, warmer 24x7xwinter only
    zone 3: downstairs, cooler than upstairs 24x7xwinter only

    If I had such a system, would I want/need TRVs on each rad? How much would such a programmer cost?

    Thanks!
     
  18. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    There are some very quiet sections on AVF. I know for a fact that a Tradesman section would do incredibly well on this site but can see why Admin haven't done it or wouldn't consider it as that's not really what AVF is about.

    Amazing how many Boiler Questions there are. Possibly seasonal?!
     
  19. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    Not really a requirement just make sure it's properly clipped and not touching the timber as you will get knocking when pipes are heating up or cooling down.


    Different zones like that are good if your starting from scratch. But adding to an existing system would be a pain.

    And yes to trv's. Iv got two zones in my house but still like different temperatures In Different rooms.

    There are loads of 3 Chanel programmers Not very expensive. The expense is if you were to use wireless programable rooms stats.

    So many options tbh. Also alot of work. You need to see how your system is pipped in first.

    Liam
     
  20. davepuma

    davepuma
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    I had my combi boiler (Worcester - 19 years old/serviced annually) serviced recently but I have found that the water is boiling hot for a few seconds and then goes tepid. The engineers that come out tell me that I should really get a new one but as long as it works, I'm happy to carry on with it until it's knackered.

    I'll have to get them back in again to have a look at it but is this the beginning of the end. It's been pretty much trouble free throughout its life AFAIK with only a couple of parts changed at service and a new control unit fitted.
     
  21. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    Forgot to say the best bet with the towel rails would be to add electric timed element.
     
  22. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    Hi

    What model Worcester is it? CDi?

    Just because it's old doesn't mean you need a new one.

    Could be the thermisteor, diaphragm in the diverter valve or flow switch.

    Let me know what model and I will try to help you out.

    Liam
     
  23. Flimber

    Flimber
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    Worcester RSF 24i Junior.

    Pressure gauge on turn-on goes bonkers ever few seconds for a few minutes and then settles down.

    Is this a sign of a failed/failing/struggling heat exchanger or could it be something else ? System is sludged and being X800'd ASAP (X400 didn't do that much).

    Ta.
     
  24. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    Apart from the gauge "going bonkers" what is the problem.
     
  25. Flimber

    Flimber
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    Kettling noise accompanying, clattering sounding like a nunchuck in a washing machine.
     
  26. Wahreo

    Wahreo
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    Sounds like air in the system?
     
  27. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    How old is the boiler? How old is the system? What was the reason you used x400 cleanser?
     
  28. Flimber

    Flimber
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    ~6yrs old. Pipework, Lord knows, mix of rads, some old as the pipework, some a couple of years old. System was inhibited a few years back but I think I flushed it all out one fine day so has been running neat. Water from a rad recently came out like chocolate milk shake. Hence X400. That improved some cold spots on rads. Second reason for the X400 treatment. Boiler started clunking and experiencing 'needle flicking' before Christmas. The gauge needle goes ferocious for a few mnutes, then calsm down. Was told it was the Expansion vessel having failed. Got a new one fitted; no difference. In fact system is now worse as hot water runs for a while and then goes tepid since the boiler was part-dismantled to fit the new vessel.

    Thanks,
    Mike.
     
  29. liamthefirst

    liamthefirst
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    First thing would be to check to see if there's an inline filter/strainer on the return isolation valve could (seen in the past) be on the flow. Could be that that's blocked. Cross your fingers.


    If no filter then I would say the main heat exchanger needs changing or cleaning.

    I would also say its a bit late to just put cleanser in the system and the first lot of cleanser you put in may have loosened the sludge in your system that's now in your boilers heat exchanger.

    ...(a)...change the heat exchanger or get is sonic cleaned. I would also get a magnetic filter on your system ASAP preferably on the return to the boiler.

    ...(b)...I would say by What colour you described the water to be, a proper flush is required. And depending who does it and what chemicals they use could clean out your heat exchanger and may not need replacing.

    Liam
     
  30. McGraw

    McGraw
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    Sorry to thread hijack but I have the exact same boiler as you I think (about 9 years old) and just before Xmas the heating on it stopped working properly (hot water was fine).

    To cut a long story short I ended up getting Worcester out to fix it. They charge £300 over 12 months, fix whatever needs fixing then run it on a service contract.

    As almost the entire top of the boiler ended up needed replacing, this was a great deal for us.

    We had to have the system cleaned and this cost £140 (chemical clean, not powerflush)from a Worcester approved guy but I also got him to fix a leak and some other bits and pieces as part of the price.

    £25 a month fixed the problem and gave us great peace of mind...it might be worth considering.
     

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