Idiots' guide to building a wooden frame?

acrebo

Established Member
Is there one on this forum anywhere? I'm talking real basic stuff like what size timber should be used and how best to join right angles, how to fix to walls, etc...?

I'm stuck between 'enjoying' building my own false wall and paying someone to do it for me!
 

wingnutta

Standard Member
I dont think there is any "set" rules for building the frame? I had never built one until recently and i just went with what i thought was right. Mine wasnt a very big wall and also not going to support a lot of weight so i went with quite small timber (34mm x 34mm) As for right angles - lots of patience and a good spirit level will do it!

As for fixings - i went to local B & Q and just had a good look at the types they had - then went to Travis Perkins and bought them cheaper! :D

Dont be afraid to buy some wood and just have a go - see how it turns out? I did and it was harder work than some people make it look, however the satisfaction when done was great!

Only advice is to but a chopsaw if you can! In hindsight it would have probably cut the time to make in half! (If funds allow that is)

Also show some pictures of what you are trying to do or build and might be able to be more specific on sizes etc..

My thread below if you want to see what i did

Good Luck :smashin:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/home-cinema-diy/1436415-conservatory-basic-av-rebuild.html
 

HiFiRuss71

Distinguished Member
Agreed. Buy tools that allow you cut things straight and square and the rest is just making sure you measure lengths right. 'Building' things in Google Sketchup first is also a good idea as it allows you get your dimensions right from the off and I certainly managed to avoid a few prat falls before even the first cut.

Have a look in my Floater Thread and there's examples of the sketchups near the beginning, but I'd suggest two things:

Work out if your display is going to sit on, or in the floating wall. This determines (once you've included the depth of the display wall mount) exactly what thickness of wood you'll use. Likely 4x2" (47x100mm) if the TV is going on, or 6X2" (47x150mm) if it's going to sit in. I preferred 'in' but 6x2 becomes heavy very quickly.

The other thing is that whilst you're frame can be a bit on the squint, the fascia of the floating wall needs to be square and level. This is easier if you minimize the number of cuts required and work with the natural dimensions of the sheet material, normally 8x4' (2440x1220mm), so start that size and work backwards.

Hope that helps.

Russell
 

acrebo

Established Member
Thanks very much guys, appreciate it. The TV (30kg) will be sitting on the wall; would you not recommend 2x2 stud timber for the frame? Better to go with 4x2?

I'm also planning on having a multitude of cubbyhole holes for all my AV equipment in the lower section of the wall... looks like that might be quite intricate work!
 

sherbert79

Established Member
I would go with 4 x 2 if the tv is that heavy, also gives you a greater depth of cubby hole if you use the 4" side as the depth, i'm a joiner to trade so any questions dont hesitate to ask, go on and give it a go you might enjoy it!!

sherbs:smashin:
 

nacmacfeegle

Distinguished Member
B and Q will cut the MDF sheets to any size you need, nice and straight and square.
Other DIY places and timber merchants may offer a similar service.
Cubby holes can be tricky for amateurs, but wooden mouldings framing the cubby hole can hide a multitude of sins.;) (buy a mitre box and a decent saw)
 

acrebo

Established Member
In terms of mounting the TV, which way do I want the 4x2 to face? So the mount screws go into the 4" face but only 2" deep, or into the 2" face but a lover screw/depth?

Frustrating seeing as 2x2 is so much cheaper than 4x2!
 

sherbert79

Established Member
If i were you i would build the frame so that you are fixing the tv mount on to the 2" edge but the screw/bolt would be able to go in up to a depth of 4" would make it easier for you to make your little cubby holes as you have a depth of 4" to set back in to.:thumbsup:

sherbs
 

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