Peter Parker
Distinguished Member
I've just fitted the same Hoya filtyer that Guy used to my Ht1000, and recalibrated the colours. A very cheap and worth while addition.
Just adding the filter richens the image up nicely, and I'm sure those peopel who aren't too picky will love it just as it is. Increasing green and blue to color correct to D65 helps bring a little lost brightness back, and opening the iris a little should give you back the rest of what little light you dropped.
If the pj was at D65 to start with, you still gain with this mod because it allows you to run with the green and blue at higher settings, which Guy says gives them a much larger range of DMD operation, and should reduce the posterisation that some people seem to get.
I've only done this via DVI so far, and it's my first run at calibration, so no doubt there are some more tweaks to be done, but not having any sweetvision available means that it won't be quite the same as what Guy is seeing.
If you have HTPC, then you can tweak the gamma (if your player allows it) and reveal some more dark area detail. This is the area where I have to play with the settings some more.
I'll probably try the s-video and component inputs from my Skyworh player, just to see if I arrive at the same settings that Guy did (or there abouts), at least then I'll know I'm going in the right direction.
As for D65, I was getting approx 2400:1 CR from the standard HT1000 set to 65K after setting white and black level. I was using the light meter that comes with SMART III which is very accurate down to the black levels that DLP produces and is ideal for contrast measurements. You can't beat Colorfacts for speed when it comes to colour adjustments though.
I was surprised that the machine still had good colour tracking after 200+ hours, but I guess the bulbs need to go longer before they start to need recalibrating.
Gary.
Just adding the filter richens the image up nicely, and I'm sure those peopel who aren't too picky will love it just as it is. Increasing green and blue to color correct to D65 helps bring a little lost brightness back, and opening the iris a little should give you back the rest of what little light you dropped.
If the pj was at D65 to start with, you still gain with this mod because it allows you to run with the green and blue at higher settings, which Guy says gives them a much larger range of DMD operation, and should reduce the posterisation that some people seem to get.
I've only done this via DVI so far, and it's my first run at calibration, so no doubt there are some more tweaks to be done, but not having any sweetvision available means that it won't be quite the same as what Guy is seeing.
If you have HTPC, then you can tweak the gamma (if your player allows it) and reveal some more dark area detail. This is the area where I have to play with the settings some more.
I'll probably try the s-video and component inputs from my Skyworh player, just to see if I arrive at the same settings that Guy did (or there abouts), at least then I'll know I'm going in the right direction.
As for D65, I was getting approx 2400:1 CR from the standard HT1000 set to 65K after setting white and black level. I was using the light meter that comes with SMART III which is very accurate down to the black levels that DLP produces and is ideal for contrast measurements. You can't beat Colorfacts for speed when it comes to colour adjustments though.
I was surprised that the machine still had good colour tracking after 200+ hours, but I guess the bulbs need to go longer before they start to need recalibrating.Gary.
