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Hoya Filter for AE100

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by booktrunk, Jul 15, 2004.

  1. booktrunk

    booktrunk
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    Hi,

    I'm after some advice, a friend of mine has a Panny AE-100.

    He is considerng getting a Hoya Filter for it. so basically what size does it need, and where can he get one from.

    Thanks in advance for your replies.

    Steff
     
  2. theritz

    theritz
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    Steff,

    A 55mm filter with a tiny sliver of masking tape or similar will fit inside the front of the lens of the AE100.

    Sean G.
     
  3. booktrunk

    booktrunk
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    Thanks for that, so now i know it's a 55mm

    Two other problems one is where does he go to get one (online I would guess).

    The second is what sort is it i've done a websearch and there seems to be millions of varieties of filter!!!

    Confoosed who regrets telling my friend now he just needs to try a hoya filter :)

    Steff
     
  4. ShinObiWAN

    ShinObiWAN
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    I think its the Hoya FL-Day
     
  5. Zone

    Zone
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    If it is then Jessops would be my first port of call , see here
     
  6. booktrunk

    booktrunk
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    Thanks a lot.

    You people are stars :)

    Cheers

    Steff
     
  7. Quantum

    Quantum
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    I got the coated one from here.

    http://www.2filter.com/

    The Jessop one is uncoated i think and so can degrade the picture slightly due to reflections on the lens. With the good exchange rate it came to less then £18

    It does make the picture less bright overall but to my eyes the black is much more black. Before in scenes with small areas of black, black looked black but as soon as about 1/4 of the total picture was black I saw grey. Now with 3/4 or so of the picture showing black it looks black and for me that is worth more then brightness overall :thumbsup: .

    I guess you have done your homework and know you need to adjust the RGB levels to compensate for the shift in colour balance caused by the lens. I am using Red -8 and Blue -2 when feeding the AE100 from my HCPC but I could be way off. You could use a calibration disc e.g avia or use your eyes.

    Paul
     
  8. theritz

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    Paul,

    Try leaving the Red alone and boosting the Green +12 and the Blue + 6........... The filter cuts the green and blue components of the white balance, boosting them brings the three components back into line.

    Sean G.
     
  9. Quantum

    Quantum
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    I tried that but what seems to happen to me is when the projector approaches full white it becomes off white.
    I will try to explain what i mean
    say you start with a signal that is grey
    red80% greeen 80% and blue 80%
    the filter cuts the green and blue so say you get
    red 80% green 70% blue 75% onscreen but lcd panel of the projector is outputing 80/80/80 still
    now you use your settings (or thereabouts)
    boosts it back to red 80% green 80% blue 80% onscreen and the lcd panel is outputting around 80/90/85 (or thereabouts)
    and you have grey again
    but if you start with full white
    red100% green 100% blue 100%
    again the filter cuts green and blue so you get
    red 100% green 90% blue 95% onscreen (numbers are just for illustration) but the projector is still outputing 100% on red green and blue
    your settings cant make the projector output more than 100% so white appears off-white.
    with my settings red and blue are cut so you get
    red 90% green 90% and blue 90% which is duller but should be white or non-tinted light grey :)
    unless I am way off base :rotfl:
    Paul
     
  10. theritz

    theritz
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    I understand what you're saying, but the essential point is that without the filter, the white balance contains too much green, meaning that the illustrative numbers you've quoted are not representative of what's going on - by applying the filter and boosting the red component of the white balance the colour balance ends up with too much red in it. I suggested the alternative numbers in my earlier post out of interest - you're happy with the picture you end up with and that's the important point - I've no wish argue over whether one approach is better than another, other than to explain why the filter is used and it's effect on colour balance.


    Sean.
     
  11. Quantum

    Quantum
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    :oops: Sorry mate I definitely wasn’t trying to start an argument; I was just kind of asking if my assumptions about white were correct.
    I would be mad to pick a fight with someone of your knowledge....I was just trying to put a little back into the forum who's senior members like yourself have helped me in the past :smashin:
    Paul
     
  12. theritz

    theritz
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    Paul

    :blush: ............. I wasn't suggesting you were being argumentative..... and I certainly wouldn't want to come across as "off putting" of others posts.......... thanks for the compliment.

    Like I said, the important issue with any of the various "tweaks" is that you end up happy with the image from your projector.


    All the best,

    Sean.
     
  13. Gary Lightfoot

    Gary Lightfoot
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    I'm not sure if LCD works in the same way, but with DLP, you can have the situation you suggest - calibration is often done at 30ire and 80ire (0ire is black, 100ire is white). If you have full red output (for example) at 80ire to get the colour balance looking right, when a scene calls for full white, you end up with a red deficient image.

    When using the Hoya filter on my DLP, I found that maxing red at 100ire meant I didn't get any clipping if I clabrated at other ire levels - provided I didn't increase the red any further. So I had to adjust the G and B acordingly.

    You can calibrate a pj by eye to a degree if you use some vertical grey bars (ire fields/ramps) so that at no time do you see a colour tint to any of the grey bars. Uisng a colorimiter is the best way to so this if you're not very good at detecting small colour pushes (like me. :) )

    Avia has these grey fileds, but I'm not sure about Video Essentials.

    HTH

    Gary.
     

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