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How to take photographs of moving projected image?

Discussion in 'Photography Forums' started by MacReady, Jul 30, 2005.

  1. MacReady

    MacReady
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    I have had a Fuji S7000 fro a couple of Months now and have been happy enough to just leave it in auto mode but now want to actually start using it 'properly'.

    I have been trying to get my head around the apature and shutter settings and was playing around last night by trying to take pictures of fast moving images on my projector screen in a darkened room...but I could not get one that look OK :thumbsdow

    What kind of setting should I be using? If I set the shutter speed above anything more than 1/20 then then picture is way too dark, but below that the image is blurred. The same when I set the appature to anything more than 2.8.

    Sorry if these seems like a dumb question but I am completely new to using a good camera manually but really want to learn how to get the best from it.
     
  2. seany

    seany
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    You need to the leave it at F2.8 (that's it's widest anyway) you're going need to bump up the ISO right up, this could add noise to the image (grain) . They're the only two things that will give you enough shutter speed to stop mottion blur while giving enough light to expose your image. But still that might not be enough. If it's not you're going to have to let in more light with lamps ect
     
  3. RobertP

    RobertP
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    What you are trying to do would be difficult with any camera.

    Your adapted eyes might see a bright image on the screen but there is not that much light to work with. A bit like trying to take pictures at a concert the stage lights aren't bright enough for most cameras.

    I'd guess the projected image is flickering so 1/30th and a bit of luck (or a tripod) would be a starting point for shutter speed. The subject is flat so if you are square on so you don't need depth of field - use the lowest f stop you have to let as much light in as possible.

    Finally push up the iso until you can get the shot.
     
  4. seany

    seany
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    Why don't you just pause it and take the shot?
     
  5. Zone

    Zone
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    Does the picture have to be moving? Why not just freeze the picture first.
    EDIT>Sean bet me to it ;)
     

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  6. seany

    seany
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    Great minds Si :p
     
  7. MacReady

    MacReady
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    Well to be honest I was just trying it to see if I could actually do it...but it sounds like it is pretty damn difficult to achieve so someone with zero photography knowledge like me is unlikely to manage it :oops:

    Sorry for all the newbie type questions, but even in outside daylight shots I cannot set the shutter speed that high even with the iso set to 800 as the pictures as almost black. I just can't seem to get my head round this at all :(
     
  8. RobertP

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    I don't understand this comment.

    Are you using a fully manual mode when this happens? With full manual control the camera can't help you - so if you don't let enough light in the picture will be dark. Full manual means you need a light meter to tell you what settings to make.

    You should be using either shutter priority - where you set the shutter speed and the camera measures the light to set the aperture or Aperture priority - where you choose the lens aperture size and the camera decides on the shutter speed.

    99% of my pictures are taken in aperture priority.
     
  9. MacReady

    MacReady
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    I have been using in full manual...I take it I should leave that alone for now.

    Just tried a couple of shots using shutter priority and apeture priority and the apeture priority ones do seem to be a lot better.
     
  10. RobertP

    RobertP
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    Now you are taking successful pictures again you can try the same shot with different apertures and see the differences.

    0n f2.8 you will have a shallow depth of field (how much distance is in focus) so you can have a clear foreground subject and that nice blurred background to make the subject stand out. Same picture at say f11 will have the bacground clear enough to see what it is as well. Time to get creative....
     
  11. Johndm

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    Hey....FULL manual needs experience. I never use it, besides, you'd need a seperate light meter really.

    Maybe you should start looking at a DSLR.....Canon of course.. :D
     
  12. seany

    seany
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  13. Johndm

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  14. seany

    seany
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    Well you have surprised me there lad, that's a pretty good article to go by actually.


    Going to be giving kerso a shout soon by the way;
     
  15. seany

    seany
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    I always shoot in manual now.
     
  16. Johndm

    Johndm
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    Nice one....70-200L IS maybe?? :smashin:

    As for the manual job.....well I guess its fine for stationary stuff, plenty of time to fiddle and retake shots.

    With the Hairyplanes, no second chance. Sometimes I'll take 30 pictures of a single aircraft's display, and trash every one.
    It be my luck the 'perfect' one would be dark or blown out coz the light changed maybe..

    Bye the way, I'm switching to RAW for the aircraft stuff from now on.
    Just got a nuvver 1 gig Kingston Elite Pro for £25 on Ebay.. :smashin:
     
  17. seany

    seany
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    Well john i was thinking of getting it, but i think the 135L is going to suit my needs more. I'm hoping to get in to indoor sports events (kickboxing) so the IS is useless in that light. Plus it's more stealthy for street stuff.
     
  18. seany

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