how do i build a decent sub

banners

Active Member
For pure simplicity and a very reasonable cost the Monolith is difficult to beat. However if you have the room and the inclination (from your other thread I know you've got the skill) you could find a suitable driver, make yourself a box and stuff in one of BK's sub amps:
BSB

But if you're amp sorts out the bass management sufficiently you could use a mono amp to drive the sub:
Modules

The Monolith driver is available:
Monolith Drive Unit

There is numerous projects out there. What budget and space can you accommodate?
From there you can start to narrow you choices.

HTH for now,
Steve
 

b33k34

Standard Member
I really can't see that it's worth it. A 300w BK panel is £200 and the 10" peerless drive unit £90. That's £290 total.

BK sell the drive unit, in a box, painted and finished to a high standard, with feet and a 275w amp for £295.
 

IronMonkeyPimp

Active Member
I made my own sub box, I used:

1, Pioneer TS-W121SPL

a 4th order bandpass box with the help of:
LinearTeam

one of these:
Subwoofer-Aktivweiche B1 - profi hifi Vertriebsgesellschaft m.b.H.

and an old amp I had lying around.

It would rattle the doors and my attic lid and even vibrate the door handles, so I had to brace everything down and tighten screws. But I dont think it was very audiophile :)

Ive got three other subs, an ADS HT12PS, a VIBE ZETA 15 inch sub and a Vibe BETA 10 inch sub, all HT subs, not home made. Ive got one connected to my centre, one to my fronts and one LFE channel in front of my sofa and the homemade one behind my sofa.

The "HouseWrecker" also looks appealing
DECWARE's House Wrecker - High Output Subwoofer


Ive recently asked BK ELEC if they can make me something that can fill / pressurise a 6 x 6 metre HT room planned for my new house. I wanted an Epik Conquest or Elemental Designs sub (with the 2 18's), but there not available here.
 

tahirti3

Well-known Member
If this is something you enjoy doing,then don't worry about what you can get ready made.
we are a little limited in drive unit choice over here but i would suggest a jbl w10gti or w12gti.have a look on that auction site.can be had for a bargain price.
amp wise,if you want simple go for the biggest bk amp you can afford.
go with the suggested ported or bandpass box.
if you want really high spl as well as quality go for a pro amp and crossover.
you know the wood won't cost much and no point in worrying about your time and sweat,its a labour of love for some of us:thumbsup:
 

tahirti3

Well-known Member
the rythmik stuff is nice, i just got their new 600 watt amp.you do have to import the stuff though.
the bits i have suggested are really good and easily available.:thumbsup:
 

Member 96948

Distinguished Member
As the title suggests, how do i built a decent sub?

I have no idea how to do it and what the components for this cost, so fire away
Funny you should say this, but I've been investigating this for some while and have started down the DIY path by investing in the power tools necessary to do the job.

This is possibly not the answer you wanted, but without the right tools, good intentions are a non starter.

I tend to buy tools on principle of "buy the best ones once and thus have bought a Trend Plunge Router and a Makita Circular Saw.

I work in construction and these are the 240v equivalents of the tools that several professional tradesmen recommended for the relatively light duties an amateur sub builder will demand. The Trend router in particular was a recurring recommendation. DIYers may have another idea or two, but I'll stick with the pros.;)

After that, if we consider that MDF is the material of choice for the box and that you will finish it (veneer, paint, whatever) however you choose, then the only important bits left are the size of box you can accommodate, the optimal driver to install in it and the amplifier to drive it.

That bit is tricky and can only be solved with intensive Googling and visits to DIYAudio and their search function. Post your requirements here (dimensions, budget, etc) and people with more experience than me may link to useful threads.

Russell
 

Member 639844

Former Advertiser
Cylinders are used to give a smaller footprint, but this leads to a taller sub. They are usually lighter than their box counterparts because a cylinder is naturally a stronger shape. When Ive tested a box against a cylinder though, I found the box to just sound better, but thats just my personal opinion.

Is there a particular you want a cylinder?
 

IronGiant

Moderator
Your experience of a box against a cylinder doesn't mean the entire cylinder concept is doomed to failure Dan :D also, just my opinion...

Dave
 

deansocial

Active Member
Cylinders are used to give a smaller footprint, but this leads to a taller sub. They are usually lighter than their box counterparts because a cylinder is naturally a stronger shape. When Ive tested a box against a cylinder though, I found the box to just sound better, but thats just my personal opinion.

Is there a particular you want a cylinder?

i guess just because i can. thought it would be a fun project
 

IronGiant

Moderator
No reason not to IMHO :D but I'm biased :cool:
 

Member 639844

Former Advertiser
Your experience of a box against a cylinder doesn't mean the entire cylinder concept is doomed to failure Dan :D also, just my opinion...

Dave
i would never suggest, otherwise. i would however like to point to the 3 people i convinced to try a box who owned cylinders all agreed, as well as a half admission from ed at svs as well. dont take my word for it though, no other cylinder owners did, even though they hadnt tested both as i did.

still, feel free to build what you want. the cylinders are still good subs
 
Defo agree with Moonfly. I have test both the PC12 plus and the PC ultra and they both chuffed like mad.

If you are going to me a cylinder please make sure you use a large enough port, say about 3 feet in diameter :rotfl:

cheers

Graham
 

Member 639844

Former Advertiser
just need to think of a design and size. 450mm and 700mm tall will give about 90L, what about porting?
The cabinet size will be dependant on the drivers you choose. Whether to use ports or not depends on what you want to achieve with your sub, what type of sub you want and what your performance goals are and how you want to achieve these. If you decide you want a ported sub, this will likely slightly affect your driver choice as some work better with ported cabinets than others.

It sounds a little like you've just decided you would like to try building your self a sub, but have not yet worked out what your goals are. For me, it was these goals that brought me to the decision to try a self build.

I think you need to really think about what you want from your sub first, then move forward from there. Think about that, then post your thoughts, from that I can probably give you my thoughts better and then aim some relevant questions your way. Those answers will probably bring us to the starting point of what your going to build.

FYI, the general consensus is that the choice between box and cylinder is nothing more than an aesthetic one. Despite what I think, your probably best working on that assumption when choosing what you want :smashin:, and I wouldnt argue with that. It is still very realistic to construct a very good cylinder sub so dont let my comment deter you.
 

Member 639844

Former Advertiser
Defo agree with Moonfly. I have test both the PC12 plus and the PC ultra and they both chuffed like mad.

If you are going to me a cylinder please make sure you use a large enough port, say about 3 feet in diameter :rotfl:

cheers

Graham
This just gave me an idea, what about a cylinder with the main driver firing down, then a PR in the top. I wander if that would work, if so it would remove any chuffing concerns. Even opposing drivers would work well, and it may even allow the cylinder to have 2 configurations, stood up or lying down.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

deansocial

Active Member
This just gave me an idea, what about a cylinder with the main driver firing down, then a PR in the top. I wander if that would work, if so it would remove any chuffing concerns. Even opposing drivers would work well, and it may even allow the cylinder to have 2 configurations, stood up or lying down.

i di think about 2 drivers but would that mean increaseing in size? What you mean by PR in top
 

Member 639844

Former Advertiser
i di think about 2 drivers but would that mean increaseing in size? What you mean by PR in top

Use a passive radiator instead of ports. It would mean a size increase wouldnt be necessary, and it would probably be smaller than a ported sub.

Before you decide on that though, take a look at this:

Audio Innovation - by Dan Marx www.danmarx.org

Use that to decide which type of sub would be best for you, and then take it from there IMO.
 

deansocial

Active Member
think i wil go with a PR i there then as that looks a good idea and sounds like it is east to tune. I think i will have the sub stood up behind the sofa just because ive got 20 little poking fingers in this house and that would be the safest place unless i put grills on it and have it lying down at the front of the room.

Thinking of using the peerless XLS 10 driver and matching PR.

Thoughts?
 
PR's still have their limits like drivers so I don't think that would work either. Alot of people use 18" drivers for cylinders in America, so that way you could go wider, say 20" and have a single 8" port. Not sure how that would sound. I hate cylinders, bad design personally.

Decent sized ported box is going to be much better.

Graham
 

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