Hob installation

Discussion in 'Domestic White Goods Forum' started by Westindieman, Feb 24, 2014.

  1. Westindieman

    Westindieman
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Messages:
    1,773
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Stockport
    Ratings:
    +149
    I am switching electric hobs from one with elements on to a ceramic one. The old hob had a 13a plug at the end of the cord which went into a double socket at the back of the oven which was fed from the normal fused cooker socket with the red on off switch. The new ceramic one's installation manual says 'Mains Supply could be connected to the Mains Voltage by Direct Connection', then there is a diagram with a double pole insulated fused spur outlet and below the diagram it says 'use a 30a fuse'.
    Does this mean I cannot put a plug on the end?

    Thanks
     
  2. Cliff

    Cliff
    Distinguished Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2001
    Messages:
    6,615
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    167
    Location:
    Kent Accra Rub Al Khali
    Ratings:
    +4,074
    Exactly. No plug, as that is only 13 Amps. Has to be direct connection on a run back to the consumer unit with a separate breaker
     
  3. Westindieman

    Westindieman
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Messages:
    1,773
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Stockport
    Ratings:
    +149
    6 different people split 3 yes, 3 no. The people who say yes is probably as they were saying this needs to go to a 30A fuse and I have advised them it is on a 30A fuse from the circuit and I have put a plug socket underneath the worktop for the ease of removing the hob or oven quickly without hard wireing each time. I have been advised that the 30A fuse will protect this part of the circuit whilst the 13A plug will protect the hob. Is this not the case?
    The previous hob was connected the same way for 2 years.
     
  4. Gavtech

    Gavtech
    Administrator

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2005
    Messages:
    21,145
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    166
    Ratings:
    +7,093
    All will depend on the total wattage that the hob is rated at.
    You will find that on the rating plate on the hob itself ( which MUST be present ) - if there is no information in the literature.

    Cooking appliance circuit ratings used to be calculated using a so called 'diversity' calculation, on the basis that it would be rare for all rings to be on at the same time. Nevertheless, the circuit and all conductors must be able to cope with a realistic duty cycle.
    It is undesirable to run circuits to the limit of their capacity.

    Basically, if the hob is roughly 3000W total or below you can use a plug but it is not all that desirable.
    If it is significantly above that it should be hard wired on its own sub circuit back to the consumer unit... and all conductors should be capable of handling 30A in such a radial circuit configuration.

    Presumably, if you were using a plug with the previous hob that means you had a flex on the hob... If you use any configuration where the circuit is protected only by a 30 Amp fuse / breaker then that flex needs to go. It is not adequately rated. You cannot leave it in circuit. ( The 13 amp fuse in the plug is protecting that cable)
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • List
  5. Westindieman

    Westindieman
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Messages:
    1,773
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Stockport
    Ratings:
    +149
    Thanks for looking in guys, thats generally what ive been told. What I'm going to do is play safe and do what is recommended. Can you guys point me in the direction of a 'double pole switched fused spur outlet' that uses a 30amp fuse so I have an idea what to look for. My understanding is this, the double socket I have behind the oven feeding hob and oven which is on its own dedicated circuit for the cooker, is to be removed and said switch installed which will feed both hob and oven with no fuse required between them and the breaker?
    Thanks
     
  6. michaelkenward

    michaelkenward
    Banned

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2009
    Messages:
    273
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Location:
    Haywards Heath
    Ratings:
    +87
    Electricity is dangerous. Call in an electrician.

    Not expensive.

    Will also advise on the all important earth link. The law has changed on that. You may need something more substantial.
     
  7. Westindieman

    Westindieman
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Messages:
    1,773
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Stockport
    Ratings:
    +149
    Forgot to mention, above the worktop is a big red isolator switch which feeds the double socket behind the cooker. This is already usually a 30 or 45 amp double pole switch isnt it?
     
  8. Westindieman

    Westindieman
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Messages:
    1,773
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Stockport
    Ratings:
    +149
    Job done after a visit to CEF who advised me on what was needed.
     

Share This Page

Loading...