Hisense 55M7000 measured calibration settings

Hey everyone,

I know it says no game mode setting but canny anyone recommends game settings for the 1230 firmware.

Also can someone please clarify for me, when gaming on an HDR game it switched so HDR mode. When I switch back to game mode, is that still then HDR or not?

Obviously, I want the same game mode benefits when gaming in HDR.

Hope that makes sense. Would love your input @Nobbler but realise you have moved on from this TV.

Thanks

Dean
 
Has anyone got some recommended settings for playing Xbox One X?
 
Hi there Nobber I've read ur Clear Chip Solution.. Is this applicable to what i'm experiencing to my 50k322 Hisense ultra4ktv? Because before i can watch 4k movies in my tv but after a couple of yrs.. 3yrs to be exact i can't play anymore 4k movies it's just white with stripes whenever i tried to watch 4k movies, is the"Clear Chip" procedure will work? do u have a firmware for this kind of tv so i can start the process? tnx
 
Thanks Nobbler, for your advice. Used it on my 65" and big improvements. Thanks for that. It's still helping people improve there TV, years on.
 
So I've posted some settings over on the M7000 thread but they seem to get lost in the quagmire of firmware and update posts - so I've had a play with my TV today and reset it from scratch and re-calibrated it. I've done a full calibration on this which took me a few hours and as such will be the final settings that I post. They are (without trying to make myself sound too big headed) the best settings I've used. I have done a day, night and HDR setting. Please feel free to use them. Adapt them if you must but I mean it when I say this is it so there will be no game settings I'm afraid.

THESE SETTINGS WERE MEASURED ON A 55M7000 ON FIRMWARE 1230. THEY SHOULD WORK ON ALL FIRMWARE VERSIONS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. THEY WORK FINE ON MINE BUT IM SORRY BUT I CAN'T GUARANTEE THEY WILL BE PERFECT ON YOUR SET BUT THEY WILL BE A STARTING POINT

Night (for day use THE SAME settings on STANDARD mode)
Mode - Cinema (use standard for day settings though I just leave it on these all the time)
Brightness - 51
Contrast - 38
Colour Saturation - 40
Backlight- 46
Colour Temp - Warm

White Balance - 2 Point
BT709
RO -10
GO 3
BO 6
RG 2
GG 0
BG 1

10 Point
80%
R -1
G 0
B -1

70%
All 0

60%
R 1
G 0
B 5

50%
R -2
G 0
B 7

40%
R -8
G 0
B 3

30%
R -6
G 0
R -1

20%
R -2
G 0
B 1

HDR Settings
Brightness - 47
Contrast - 42
Colour Saturation - 40
Backlight - 100
Colour Temp - Warm
White Balance - 2 Point
Native
RO -5
GO 0
BO 0
RG 2
GG -1
BG -1

10 Point WB and the Colour Tuner are pretty much useless on HDR so I haven't touched them.
It's been suggested that using adaptive contrast on low for HDR brings some improvement. I agree though it was measured with it off- I've also removed the colour tuner settings as it doesn't work. It doesn't matter though as back in the day the Pioneer Kuro CMS was renowned for its poor quality and also no current Sony model - including the OLED even had a CMS so we should feel privileged we have one even though it's doesn't work :D
Enjoy

Hi Nobbler, thanks for all the hard work you put in with providing us these settings. I've been finding this model awkward to calibrate, and wonder if you could answer some quick questions related to calibration?

1) What meter do you use? I'm using an i1D3, and have come to the conclusion that this meter is incompatible with the quantum dot backlight of ULED TV's, without using a correction file. Most noticeably, adjusting the red primary will report spot on in Calman / HCFR but is clearly too light (orangey). The TV can produce deep reds no problem (e.g. on Standard mode's default settings, or when dropping Cinema's red luminance by -3) - there's an error when calibrating.

2) Is there a fundamental difference between Cinema and Standard modes? Is it just in their default settings? The primary / secondary colours measure differently to me (both set to BT.709) - not sure if this is expected.

3) When using the AVS test disk, the default Contrast setting of 50 is almost spot on (51 seems ideal). Your settings use a much lower level - is there an additional consideration that you're balancing the basic adjustment with (e.g. avoiding colour clipping or something)?

4) Do you bother with the blue filter method for colour / tint adjustment? Your settings of 40 / 0 tint are the defaults for Cinema IIRC. I've read these controls are usually fine out of the box on TVs these days - did you just proceed to the WB adjustments, or did you find these values experimentally?

Many thanks in advance.
 
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Hi

I currently have the 55 inch tv which I have had for the last 4 years...has anyone got decent settings to use everyday because I am a bit confused on which ones to use?
 
I'd just use it in the Standard mode, with default settings. Colour = 40 and Tint = 0. Turn off the motion processing stuff. Colour balance Warm, and BT709 (in the White Balance section). Local dimming doesn't do much, but safe to leave on. For various reasons they're awkward TVs to calibrate, but luckily look pretty decent on near-default settings.
 
So I've posted some settings over on the M7000 thread but they seem to get lost in the quagmire of firmware and update posts - so I've had a play with my TV today and reset it from scratch and re-calibrated it. I've done a full calibration on this which took me a few hours and as such will be the final settings that I post. They are (without trying to make myself sound too big headed) the best settings I've used. I have done a day, night and HDR setting. Please feel free to use them. Adapt them if you must but I mean it when I say this is it so there will be no game settings I'm afraid.

THESE SETTINGS WERE MEASURED ON A 55M7000 ON FIRMWARE 1230. THEY SHOULD WORK ON ALL FIRMWARE VERSIONS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. THEY WORK FINE ON MINE BUT IM SORRY BUT I CAN'T GUARANTEE THEY WILL BE PERFECT ON YOUR SET BUT THEY WILL BE A STARTING POINT

Night (for day use THE SAME settings on STANDARD mode)
Mode - Cinema (use standard for day settings though I just leave it on these all the time)
Brightness - 51
Contrast - 38
Colour Saturation - 40
Backlight- 46
Colour Temp - Warm

White Balance - 2 Point
BT709
RO -10
GO 3
BO 6
RG 2
GG 0
BG 1

10 Point
80%
R -1
G 0
B -1

70%
All 0

60%
R 1
G 0
B 5

50%
R -2
G 0
B 7

40%
R -8
G 0
B 3

30%
R -6
G 0
R -1

20%
R -2
G 0
B 1

HDR Settings
Brightness - 47
Contrast - 42
Colour Saturation - 40
Backlight - 100
Colour Temp - Warm
White Balance - 2 Point
Native
RO -5
GO 0
BO 0
RG 2
GG -1
BG -1

10 Point WB and the Colour Tuner are pretty much useless on HDR so I haven't touched them.
It's been suggested that using adaptive contrast on low for HDR brings some improvement. I agree though it was measured with it off- I've also removed the colour tuner settings as it doesn't work. It doesn't matter though as back in the day the Pioneer Kuro CMS was renowned for its poor quality and also no current Sony model - including the OLED even had a CMS so we should feel privileged we have one even though it's doesn't work :D
Enjoy
Hey, are the settings above for the day or night?
 
Well, he says the same settings, using Standard rather than Cinema mode, for daytime.
 
Hi Nobbler, thanks for all the hard work you put in with providing us these settings. I've been finding this model awkward to calibrate, and wonder if you could answer some quick questions related to calibration?

1) What meter do you use? I'm using an i1D3, and have come to the conclusion that this meter is incompatible with the quantum dot backlight of ULED TV's, without using a correction file. Most noticeably, adjusting the red primary will report spot on in Calman / HCFR but is clearly too light (orangey). The TV can produce deep reds no problem (e.g. on Standard mode's default settings, or when dropping Cinema's red luminance by -3) - there's an error when calibrating.

2) Is there a fundamental difference between Cinema and Standard modes? Is it just in their default settings? The primary / secondary colours measure differently to me (both set to BT.709) - not sure if this is expected.

3) When using the AVS test disk, the default Contrast setting of 50 is almost spot on (51 seems ideal). Your settings use a much lower level - is there an additional consideration that you're balancing the basic adjustment with (e.g. avoiding colour clipping or something)?

4) Do you bother with the blue filter method for colour / tint adjustment? Your settings of 40 / 0 tint are the defaults for Cinema IIRC. I've read these controls are usually fine out of the box on TVs these days - did you just proceed to the WB adjustments, or did you find these values experimentally?

Many thanks in advance.
Hi, @mode11,

Because I went through the whole calibration process with Calman, an i1Display Pro Plus and created a correction Matrix with an i1Pro2 spectrometre, I reckon I can help.

1) Your comments about quantum dot backlight of ULED TVs is correct, using just the LED-BG profile in the colorimetre does not work, you need a correction matrix to get spot on reds (almost, bear with me).

2) No difference between modes really, just place holders for different configurations. You can confirm that in the Service Menu, at least with firmware I0228 which is what I use. In an old firmware the 2 point white balance was different between Standard and Cinema in the Service Menu but not anymore.

3) I found @Nobbler settings lacking a bit of contrast, 50/51 is spot on to avoid any clipping.

4) Do not needed. Even if you adjust Y (Luminance) with the Color Saturation controls and Tint, once you do a final readjustment you'll find Tint will be back to 0 and Color will require more touches in the Colour Tuner. So, yes, proceed to WB adjustments directly.

Interesting things, Orange, Orange Yellow and Green Yellow are affected by Flesh Tone colour tuner controls. I left them it 0,0,0 but those colours can be adjusted. To get a more pleasing red colour and not being blinded by it, I reduced its saturation in Colour Tuner to -3 and ensured that Hue is correct. Here are my night settings calibrated at 100 nits and an almost spot on gamma 2.35 curve for your reference:

DescriptionCinema — Gamma 2.35 — 100 nits
Brightness45
Contrast50
Saturation40
Backlight37
Tint0
Sharpness0
Adaptive ContrastOff
TempWarm
Ultra SmoothMid (optional)
Noise ReductionOff
Colour TunerHue, Saturation, Brightness
Red0,-3,-3
Green0,-1,0
Blue-1,1,1
Yellow-2,2,-1
Cyan2,4,-1
Magenta0,2,0
Flesh0,0,0
White Balance2pt — BT709
Red Offset-10
Green Offset0
Blue Offset10
Red Gain-3
Green Gain0
Blue Gain4
White Balance10pt — BT709 — (R, G, B)
10%6,5,6
20%-3,-4,-9
30%4,5,10
40%3,6,10
50%4,2,8
60%3,2,3
70%1,1,2
80%0,-1,0
90%-
100%-
 
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Colours look good mate but the ultra smooth motion thing looks awful as normal so set that to off
 
Hi @keridil, I'll give your settings a go (though as @cunnas said, I expect the smooth motion stuff is better left off). I PM'd Nobbler a while ago and he responded with some interesting information. In his opinion, the CMS doesn't work. He found the 2-point white balance to be functional, but said the 10-point adjustments are out by one IRE. E.g. if you adjust the values for 60IRE, they will actually apply to the 70IRE values. After he found that out, he took the TV back to the shop and got a Samsung instead. He was using an i1 Pro, with Chromapure.

My firmware is H1230, which I believe is the latest UK one.
 
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Colours look good mate but the ultra smooth motion thing looks awful as normal so set that to off
Oh, sure, turn it off. This I need otherwise my TV makes me sick. :-( I cannot cope with the choppiness of pan scrolling without it.
 
Hi @keridil, I'll give your settings a go (though as @cunnas said, I expect the smooth motion stuff is better left off). I PM'd Nobbler a while ago and he responded with some interesting information. In his opinion, the CMS doesn't work. He found the 2-point white balance to be functional, but said the 10-point adjustments are out by one IRE. E.g. if you adjust the values for 60IRE, they will actually apply to the 70IRE values. After he found that out, he took the TV back to the shop and got a Samsung instead. He was using an i1 Pro, with Chromapure.

My firmware is H1230, which I believe is the latest UK one.
Yes, you are correct, I calibrated 60% IRE with the 10pt 50% white balance option, and so on. This, believe it or not, is more common than you may think. Sometimes a 50% WB option may affect 40% and 60% IRE at the same time in some teles.

In regard to the CMS, it works—kind of—but sometimes it introduces artifacts and, adding Flesh Tones to secondary colours, to my opinion, just does not help and makes things worse. Without touching CMS you will find all colours are close to a deltaE-2000 of 5, which is not good.

I was thinking about changing 2pt WB values in Service Menu so we can have a bit more room in the 2pt WB menu and fine tune a bit better with 10pt WB. I will try this weekend probably, if I feel like it. I expect my TV to last for a little while, do not see myself forking $A3,000 to get something decent right now... maybe in a couple of years. ;-)

Latest UK firmware is I1227, I reckon. I tried it, but I0228 gave me better outcomes.
 
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Hi @keridil Where do you get the firmware updates from? I stopped checking for updates on my TV long ago as I assumed there wouldn’t be any more. Why was I0228 better?
 
Hi @keridil Where do you get the firmware updates from? I stopped checking for updates on my TV long ago as I assumed there wouldn’t be any more. Why was I0228 better?
I0228 vs I1227 less red. That's my interpretation of better. I found them in other forums, I0228 is in the main owners thread and I1227 comes from an Italian forum.
 
Hi keridil, i like your setting very much. Thank you
 
Hey guys,

I took another stab at completing my calibration, I had some spare time. I fixed a bit further the under saturated reds and created a Day, Night and Game calibrations. I tried all of them and I will be keeping them moving forward. I ensured that RGB colours are close to each other by less than a dE 1% deviation from 30% IRE to 100% IRE, 10% and 20% IRE are 1.5 dE and 2.5 dE in my TV set, so it is very good. In regard to gamma, it is spot on in all the calibrations from 10% IRE to 100% IRE, it took a long time to nail it, this TV is a nightmare to calibrate.

Important
All calibrations were done with firmware I0228, so your warm settings might not work properly with I1227 or H1230 and maybe others. For them to be spot on, you have to go to the Service Menu -> White Balance -> Color Temp (Warm), Panel (B1) and change values to look like these:

R Gain126
G Gain128
B Gain134
R Offset137
G Offset128
B Offset111
Color TempWarm
PanelB1

Following are my settings for each calibration setting. Nits and Gamma rows are only for your reference.

Night settings

Nits102
Gamma2.4
ModeCinema
Brightness44
Contrast51
Saturation40
Backlight36
TintG2
Sharpness0
Adaptive ContrastOff
TempWam
Ultra SmoothLow
OverscanOff
Noise ReductionOff
Local DimmingOn
Colour Tuner
Red-2,-1,-2
Green0,-1,-1
Blue-2,1,1
Yellow-3,2,-1
Cyan1,3,-1
Magenta-1,2,0
Flesh0,0,0
White Balance2pt - BT709
Red O-10
Green O0
Blue O8
Red G-3
Green G0
Blue G5
White Balance10pt - BT709
10%5,5,5
20%-1,-2,-10
30%3,4,9
40%2,4,9
50%3,2,7
60%3,2,2
70%1,2,0
80%2,0,2
90%
100%

Day settings

Nits152
Gamma2.35
ModeStandard
Brightness44
Contrast51
Saturation50
Backlight83
TintG1
Sharpness0
Adaptive ContrastOff
TempWarm
Ultra SmoothLow
OverscanOff
Noise ReductionOff
Local DimmingOn
Colour Tuner
Red0,-2,1
Green0,-3,0
Blue-1,-3,2
Yellow-2,0,-1
Cyan1,-1,0
Magenta0,-2,1
Flesh0,0,0
White Balance2pt - BT709
Red O-10
Green O0
Blue O10
Red G-4
Green G-2
Blue G2
White Balance10pt - BT709
10%
20%-1,-2,-3
30%7,8,10
40%5,8,10
50%4,3,8
60%6,4,2
70%2,3,2
80%
90%
100%

Game settings

Nits161
Gamma2.2 (Note: sRGB colour gamut is the same than BT.709)
ModeGame
Brightness44
Contrast51
Saturation54
Backlight45
TintG1
Sharpness0
Adaptive ContrastOff
TempStandard
Ultra SmoothOff
OverscanOff
Noise ReductionOff
Local DimmingOn
Colour Tuner
Red0,-3,-1
Green0,-3,0
Blue-1,-3,1
Yellow-2,-1,-1
Cyan1,-1,0
Magenta0,-1,0
Flesh0,0,0
White Balance2pt - BT709
Red O-10
Green O-8
Blue O5
Red G8
Green G6
Blue G-10
White Balance10pt - BT709
10%
20%6,2,2
30%-4,5,9
40%-4,1,2
50%-1,2,1
60%0,3,4
70%1,6,0
80%0,7,10
90%
100%

If any of these calibrations look not bright enough or too bright, you can just modify the backlight only, it will not affect calibrations at all.

Let me know how they look to you as I put a good amount of hours on them, why it has to be so tricky to calibrate this TV? BTW, no HDR settings as on these TVs is underperforming, that's why I am using a HDFury Vertex to advertise to my nVidia Shield that my TV does not support HDR and then my nVidia Shield does colour mapping from BT.2020 to BT.709 when content is HDR. Just in case you are going to ask. :)
 
How do I get to the service menu mate?

Edit...

Read on earlier posts it's audio then advanced audio and then down to balance before pressing 1969 but balance is greyed out for me so can't move down to that. I don't use the TV speaker so not sure if that's causing the problem?
 
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thank you, keridil, your settings are very good. I am on 55" with l1227 fw. I changed white balance settings in service menu too and i like both night and day settings..
i only changed backlight, 36 to 37 in night cinema mode and 83 to 81 in day standard mode

I think the tv is good enough in hdr too.
It would be a good thing if you make an hdr setting too.
It would be a complete configuration...
 
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How do I get to the service menu mate?

Edit...

Read on earlier posts it's audio then advanced audio and then down to balance before pressing 1969 but balance is greyed out for me so can't move down to that. I don't use the TV speaker so not sure if that's causing the problem?
Might be, just go and disable AVR temporary for you to check and perform the changes.
 
@keridil Thanks for the settings. I loaded the I0228 firmware and gave them a try. Looks pretty good to me on my TV, and the separate settings for day / night / gaming will come in handy. From a brief test they definitely look better than Standard's default settings, which I had been pretty happy with (though some flesh tones occasionally had a slightly posterised greeny-pink look).

I see your Day settings get 152 nits with a backlight of 83, yet the Game settings get 161 nits with a backlight setting of 45 - is this correct? I appreciate other settings are different (e.g. Warm vs. Standard), but seems like quite a big difference.

Just out of interest, why do the Day and Night settings differ in ways other than just backlight strength? Backlight level shouldn't affect calibration (as you say); is this not the case where a very large change is made (as here)?

Why do you need the HDFury Vertex to stop the HDR feature? Will turning off the HDMI advanced feature in the TV's menu achieve the same thing? Just curious - don't really know much about HDR.

In any case, the settings look good. Thanks for sharing.
 
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