1. Join Now

    AVForums.com uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Hiding cables upto Plasma on Wall

Discussion in 'Plasma TVs' started by MillionDollar, Nov 19, 2004.

  1. MillionDollar

    MillionDollar
    Standard Member

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2004
    Messages:
    55
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Ratings:
    +0
    I have order the PW6.

    I will have the Power cable, Component and VGA cable coming from the Plasma down.

    Does anyone know where I can get something that looks good to hide the cables. I don;t really want that white plastic stuff you get. :cool:
     
  2. cwoj

    cwoj
    Guest

    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Ratings:
    +0
    you can get trunking in all sorts of colours, red, white, green, brown, etc. An alternative is conduit, but you would have to re-terminate the vga and component cables. Or you could chase the cables into the wall. its a very messy job, but looks great in the end!! What’s behind the wall?
     
  3. MillionDollar

    MillionDollar
    Standard Member

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2004
    Messages:
    55
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Ratings:
    +0
    The wall is being built right now, At the moment they have built the Breeze Block and outer brick.

    Next the plaster board has to go up.
     
  4. nicklang

    nicklang
    Standard Member

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2004
    Messages:
    179
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    21
    Location:
    Newport, South Wales
    Ratings:
    +2
    Chase the cable in now before the plasterboard and render go on, put some large diameter internal trunking in. It will look great once it's finished and you can just pull the cables you need through.
    Make sure you measure the postion of the final placement carefully. Also if you have a cinema kit (or you plan to upgrade to one) you might want to chase the wires in for those too. :smashin:
     
  5. MillionDollar

    MillionDollar
    Standard Member

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2004
    Messages:
    55
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Ratings:
    +0
    Does that mean the builder will have to cut into the Breeze block and put the Truncking?
    The Electrican is coming on Monday I wil chat to him, I am have elec sockets put in, so he might come up with some idea to put the cables along the same line.

    The biggest probleam is, I haven't got my kit yet. I have just received confirmation from the finance company for my AV reciever and speakers, I am still waiting for confirmation from AV-Sales.
     
  6. Blu Ray

    Blu Ray
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2004
    Messages:
    495
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    21
    Location:
    Chorley, Lancs
    Ratings:
    +12
    The gap between the breeze block and the plasterboard should be sufficient without doing that, at least an inch I'd say. I suggest putting a length of any wire down each, with a bit poking out of each end.
     
  7. Barry.NI

    Barry.NI
    Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2004
    Messages:
    426
    Products Owned:
    0
    Products Wanted:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Chester
    Ratings:
    +11
    It is very difficult to plan in advance, and whatever you do, when you get the equipment on site, you will find that something is not right. Might I suggest that you leave the structural end wall, where the equipment is going, unplastered. If room permits put in a false wall, make it out of metal studding which is versatile, has slots in it for running cables, and takes up only 50mm plus the cladding. I usually beef up the vertical supports with 50mmx 25mm planed timber, which fits inside the metal studding. Plan the installation very carefully, then cover the metal studding with 12mm chipboard, at 60mm centres, to give it structural strength, and then Fermacel boards, compressed paper boards, which are structurally stronger than plasterboad, and can be screwed to the chipboard. with recessed screws. Once all the cut outs are made, either get it skimmed, or just fill the joints with a joint sealer. A good paintable or papered finish can be achieved with a little care, and some fine sandpaper, Leave channels behind the facing, with access into the roof space, or if there is another floor above, usually chipbiard, put in an access hatch, Trend Routers, do a circular trap, which when routed out, the cut out fits back into the hole, on a rebated lip. The chipboard is strong enough to hang a plasma, but if in doubt, back the point where the fixings for the plasma are going, with 12mm plywood, or use strong cavity fixings, Screwfix do metal ones, which produce a bar at the back when the screws are tightened up.
     

Share This Page

Loading...