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Here's how I made my screen

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by Tempest, Oct 6, 2004.

  1. Tempest

    Tempest
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    As Promised in my other thread
    "Some AE200 Photo's - Compare them to AE700 Anyone?"

    Here's how I made my screen.

    I know there is a screen forum, but as I promised on this forum I thought I'd better post on here...

    Right then, here goes....................................... :)

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    Phew !!!!

    Hope this is of some interest to someone.....
     
  2. stripe

    stripe
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    Excellent bit of work there :thumbsup:
     
  3. Kopite4Ever

    Kopite4Ever
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    top stuff :thumbsup: where did u get the blackout material from ?
     
  4. Tempest

    Tempest
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    I bought it from a material (dressmaking/curtains) type stuff shop in Crawley (a town near to me)

    The 1st lot I bought they folded and had dirty marks on (where they had to roll it out)

    I took this back and moaned (they looked at me like I was a fussy bugger)

    The next lot they left on the roll.

    Just tell em to ROLL it, not fold it.

    The folds MIGHT have come out in time, but didn't want to chance it.

    It's just like a white heavy cotton fabric which (I guess) has some kind of white rubber type stuff sprayed onto one side to block the light out.

    I did a test, and if you used the cotton side you got a blurry result due to the weave of the cotton.
    The rubber (I'll call it that) side was more consistant and smooth and gave a nice sharp image. So that's the side I used to project onto.
     
  5. stuthemong

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    lovely work there, a custom screen completable easily in 1 day. top marks :) :)

    low WAF though :)
     
  6. JonMace

    JonMace
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    I tried something simular once where i brought a roller bind and replaced the material with black out curtains (same as the above material) only problem is I brought it from one of those discount curtain shops, so it was ready packed and folded no amount of ironing could get it right. But apart from the ripples it did give a good bright image.
     
  7. theritz

    theritz
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    Tempest,

    Very clear instructions, top stuff. I think this is one for the FAQ, ok ?

    I imagine this does belong in the Screens forum, but there's loads of newcomers here who'll benefit from your work. How do you find the "grey bars" at the top and bottom of 2.35:1 stuff ? I have masking for my screen and it makes a huge difference - easily the best "upgrade" I've come across.

    Sean.
     
  8. Tempest

    Tempest
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    FAQ is fine by me.....
    I did create the images/writing in a bit of a rush, so glad it's still understandable !

    I have also posted a link to this posting in the screens forum as obviously it is a screens posting, but as I said I had promised someone else on this forum I would tell them how I made my screen so I put it here.. phew :)

    Yes, the one additional thing I was planning on doing was the extra screen blanking for the top and bottom with the 2.35:1 stuff as you rightly say.

    My Matt Black Paint (the one I took photo of) is really superbly non reflective and totally jet black during a film, the black bars from the projector do look very grey in comparison.

    I did buy some black sticky back velcro which I was going to attach to the sides (upper and lower areas) of my painted plastic screen surround, but I never really got into my mind how it would work well.

    I did also consider making a track with cords etc, but my main stumbling block was I could never think of an ideal material that would be stable enough for the job.

    I'd need something thin, light, 7feet wide by about 8 inches high.
    Most materials will be all floppy at those dimensions.

    I like to get it clear in my mind 1st, and I never managed on this point.

    Would welcome any suggestions.

    Must be neat though.

    That's why I liked the idea I came up with of painting plastic trunking matt black as it looks professional (esp with the moulded corners) yet still costs very little.
     
  9. theritz

    theritz
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    I'd get two long pieces of 6mm MDF or ply, cover them front and back with black velvet (or paint them with that matt black paint), use long hook and eye attachments to attach them to the top and bottom battens (you'll need clearance for the trunking frame). For 16:9 stuff have the top one lifted up out of the way, the bottom one dropped down, for 2.35:1, drop down the top one, and lift up the bottom one (you'd need two more smaller hook and eye gizmos to prevent it falling down again.) That should do the job - with both sides matt black they should be practically invisible in either position.

    Sean.
     
  10. hatcher

    hatcher
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    I was thinking of doing that.
    Have you found that the 2.35:1 image is always in the centre?
    Hatcher.
     
  11. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Not sure who you are asking..........

    But that's a concern of mine.
    Having something FIXED into place, then finding different DVD's are in slightly different positions.

    Also, like sometimes, "The Making Of" may be in a different format to the film, or outakes may be in yet another format.

    One of the reasons I've not yet make any blanking strips.
    I don't want to keep getting up and down to move them about.

    The best idea I know is the two strips (which has been mentioned) but then cord and pullys so they glide up and down into place.

    Arghhhh, if it was not for LCD Black levels we'd not have to do this in the 1st place.
     
  12. hatcher

    hatcher
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    Anyone who'll talk to me Tempest....

    As you say this is the main annoyance with LCD. DLP is better but I'm pretty sure that all projectors must suffer from it to a certain degree - except those with internal blanking of course.

    If it's a dark movie I sometimes find myself switching the projector to the 2.35:1 zoom mode, which fills the screen with the center portion, but then get annoyed that I'm missing some of the picture.

    I'm interested in any ideas people have that work with regard to this.

    Cheers,

    Hatcher
     
  13. Tempest

    Tempest
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    I've come up with another idea at work today, but it's all about thinking up a sollution that's as easy to make and use as possible.

    The black MDF on some hooks is very easy, but I'm not sure how easy it will be to lift a piece of wobbly 7ft wide MDF off two hooks (one at each end) then liff it up (right to the ceiling (by holding in the middle) and hook up out of the way. Think I'll be swearing a lot and not finding the hooks.

    I did think today about two ROLLS of something, fixed to the wall on one side of the screen you could pull out/unroll across the screen and hook up the other side, but you have tension issues there.

    Whilst writing this, another idea has sprung into my mind.
    Along the same ideas as the black MDF (will have to be covered as I find paint makes it warp).
    But rather than have hooks.
    Have some kind of black cord arrangment that's fixed to the ceiling.
    So you can raise/lower the MDF into position and tie off/hook the other end of cord. Then won't have to find hooks to hook back onto, just pull the cord to lift the blanking strips back up to the ceiling.

    Hmmmm, will give this some more thought...
     
  14. JonMace

    JonMace
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    Would it be possible to have some sort of pully mechemism where the upper and lower MDF stripe counter weight each other?

    I know too complicated
     
  15. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Yes, it's not that hard to make that.

    Basically, you have the bottom strip hanging from 2 cords which go up and over 2 pullys (top of wall) the cord then attaches to the top of the top strip.

    When you pull the top strip down the bottom strip will go up (MAGIC!!!)

    Just in my case I have my speaker and shelf under the screen so really need both strips to go to the top when finished.

    Also I'm not yet 100% convinced that movies are always in EXACTLY the same position (height wise) on the screen, so perhaps having them independant (MAY) be an advantage.
     
  16. hatcher

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    This sounds pretty good.
    You would need mount some kind of track to either side of the screen for the panels to slide up and down in. Any thoughts?
     
  17. Tempest

    Tempest
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    Well, you don't NEED tracks really, as it would work fine just hanging (if you wished to go with that method) but to be honest, the options are so varied it's hard to suggest anything.
    I guess the easiest is just to use some pine strips, or even plastic you get from the people who do plastic cladding/facia boards etc. screw/nail/glue whatever, as long as it ends up black !

    I've still not decided as I'm in a tricky position of needing both blanking strips up the top when not in use.
     

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