Help! sub keeps blowing fuses!!

Discussion in 'Subwoofers' started by memmerson, Jan 9, 2008.

  1. memmerson

    memmerson
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    Hi all,

    I moved house about 2 months ago and last weekend I finally got round to setting up my AV again.
    I unboxed my subwoofer (DD10) and rigged it up. The sub' takes a stereo input (from my HTPCs line out) and provides a stereo output (to the amps connected to my L/R speakers).

    Now, I am having 3 problems:
    1.) The sub' keeps blowing fuses in its power cable, I've gone through 4 fuses in 3 days.
    2.) There is a lot of hum being produced by the sub' and also the speakers.
    3.) The left speaker is about twice as loud as the right one.

    To troubleshoot, I have eliminated the cause of the (feedback and amp/speaker volume) problems to the subwoofer, i.e. the speakers are fine when the PCs line out is connected directly to the speakers amps.

    There is one thing I have noticed that may be relevant, and that is that the sub states it should take a 6.3A fuse but the kettle leads I have are all 5A, these seem pretty close so should it keep blowing the fuse, induce feedback and provide less power to the right speaker?

    Do you chaps have any clues as to what might be causing my problem? I guess my next step is to try a 6.3 or 7 amp fuse, I didn't feel brave enough to try a 13A fuse.

    TIA
     
  2. Badger0-0

    Badger0-0
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    Definitely don't put a 13 amp in, you'll toast something.
    The sub should only draw the full power when it's maxing out and I would have thought in normal use at normal volumes it would only draw half of that, so a 5 amp should be fine.

    I'd get in touch with Veodyne's support.
     
  3. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    Does the DD10 have a captive cable or does it use a normal IEC connection? If it's a normal IEC then you'll be fine using anything up to a 10A fuse as it's there to protect the cable and not the device itself. I suspect the 6.3A fuse mentioned is internal as it's not a standard plug fuse.

    Don't forget that the UK is about the only country to use fuses in the plug itself. :)

    To aid in troubleshooting, does the unit still blow fuses when it's plugged in and powered up but with no input signal? You may have to disable any auto-power-off features to test this.

    Have you got anything else that you could test it with other than your PC? You should be fine plugging anything which has a line-output into the RCA inputs on the back.

    Also, how much boost have you got set up in the EQ section? Using boost will rapidly increase the amount of amplifier power you need.
     
  4. memmerson

    memmerson
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    thanks for the replies guys.

    The DD10 certainly uses an IEC type cable. The fuses in the cables I have used so far have all been 5A but it is easily possible that when I moved house I "misplaced" the oem IEC cable that came with the sub and I guess it's possibly it had a higher rated amp. I will take a look around.

    I have tried the sub inputs connected to a dab radio and I also got hum there too.

    No eq has been set up yet, in fact I factory defaulted the sub when I first managed to get power to it.
     
  5. Badger0-0

    Badger0-0
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    Having read Eviljohns post, which makes perfect sense, I'd just stick a 13 amp fuse in.
    The 6.3 amp should have made me realise :suicide:
    That'll protect the sub.
    The fact that the internal hasn't blown, would seem to indicate that the 5 amp is probably a bit too small.
     
  6. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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  7. memmerson

    memmerson
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    Ok thanks for the advice guys.
    I only have a 13A fuse spare at the moment, although I guess that should be as good as a 10A if the sub has its own fuse?
     
  8. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    13A will also be fine to get it working although not ideal long-term. :)
     
  9. memmerson

    memmerson
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    Will give it a try and report back later.
     
  10. memmerson

    memmerson
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    OK. Went home at lunch, and made some progress.

    I replaced the dead 5A fuse with a new 13A and the sub is now back online. Time will tell how long it lasts, but I don’t expect it to die.

    The speakers still buzz and exhibit differing volumes (left channel about twice as loud as right) when plugged into the subs "Output" sockets though. Now, when the speakers/amps are connected to the subs “Thru” sockets the speakers don’t buzz and are balanced properly, so now it seems this problems lies with the output channels.

    The “Thru” sockets are meant to be used for connecting to another sub and I don't think they have any post-processing/crossover applied which is why the standard outputs are favourable.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks
     
  11. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    Hi Marc, good to know that at least it's working.

    What happens if you switch the input channels around so left is right and vice versa? If you get the same effect the same way around then it's definitely something up with the sub and get in touch with Velodyne about it. If the problem switches sides (ie. the sub is just passing through another problem) then we can carry on trying to narrow it down. :)
     
  12. memmerson

    memmerson
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    if the cable is swapped then the right channel becomes louder, i.e. the problem is definitely at the sub :-(
     
  13. recruit

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    Hi memmerson - It could be just a coincident ref to you're house move but I did have a problem with one of my DD12's and the sub was humming and i also noticed some comeing from my left speaker also, anyway it turned out to be a faulty amp module and once replaced the problem went away.
     
  14. eviljohn2

    eviljohn2
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    It's definitely starting to sound like something's gone wrong somewhere inside. I guess we already knew that but it's good to check - get in touch with Velodyne and/or your dealer and see what they can do for you. :)
     
  15. memmerson

    memmerson
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    Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'm in touch the reseller now.
     

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