HDMI switcher/ splitter 1 in 3 out for avoiding cable meneuvers

lpkotsev

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Hello there, I am stuck with a problem of HDMI connection. I simply don't want to take out and put in the HDMI cable every time from the source to the displaying device. I have read quite a lot about HDMI switchers/ splitters, but not sure whether anything could help in the following situation:

So my one and only source of signal is XBOX and the HDMI going out of it I would like to attach to the following devices:

- a 4K TV (HDMI input, having also an ARC input)
- a projector
- AV receiver Onkyo Integra DTR 5.9 (having standard HDMI input and HDMI out(not ARC)

The Xbox is connected also with an optical cable to the AV receiver., but I would like sometimes to experience Losless/ PCM/ 7.1 sound via the HDMI's with sacrificing a bit from the video quality.

Splitter wouldn't work as it works only with video signal, as far as I know. The ones which extract audio are really expensive. For switchers, I only see them as 3 or 2 in and 1 out, which is exactly the opposite of what I need...

So my question is: Could someone advise a device to save all the HDMI maneuvers and just switch with e.g. a remote the signal from the XboX at least to the TV and the AV receiver.


Thank you very much!
 
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Unfortunately that’s not how HDMI works - within the HDMI signal bus all connected devices are constantly ‘connected’ in the background.

There are specialised Distribution Amp (splitters) which can manage the background ‘communication’ and also separate out Audio and where required down-convert one or more video outs to suit legacy Displays, Projectors and AVR’s, the down side is they are not inexpensive devices.


In the past when we were dealing with 1080p there were one or two very low cost 2x1 Manual Switch units which could be used ‘in reverse’ as a 1x2 Output selector - only the selected Output was ever ‘active’ so switching Outputs was effectively unplugging and plugging in a cable.

Constantly plugging and unplugging HDMI cables is not a great idea - if you have to do it ensure all devices are powered off at the wall before you connect or disconnect HDMI cables.

Joe
 
Thank you @Joe Fernand for your response and additional device which will surely help me to be aware in the future. Is there any donation/gratitude system in this forum with some kind of digital currency for help? Also one question about this: Could the devices be in Stand-by while doing that HDMI plug in/off?

For the HDMI thing. I was hoping that a HDMI switcher (not splitter) like this one:


could help me to choose one dedicated output and this dedicated output to be able to transfer eiter video only or audio only. It is written in the description of this device that it supports Dolby true HD audio format, etc. - "4. Ondersteunde audioformaten: DTS-HD Master Audio, Dolby True-HD enz.
 
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Digital currency - just the 'Like' button :)

SGEYR 1x4 - would pass the EDID (Capabilities) of all connected devices to the Source (Xbox) which would then default to 1080p with HD audio, it would be unlikely that you could set the Xbox to 4K UHD when connected via the 1x4 Distribution Amp.

EDID - the source 'polls' all connected devices and outputs the best signal all devices support, that is where the HDFury device is more capable; it can take the Source signal at full video and audio capabilities and then the HDFury unit will pass or down-convert the signal on the individual Outputs to match the capabilities of the connected device on each Output port.

Standby - not normally as the chip sets requires power so when in Standby or Off it will not pass a signal.

Joe
 
Cheers! I was wondering, is there something like the EDID, but being a switcher rather than splitter. I really don't require a concurrent signal, just 1 dedicated. Am very surprised to learn that there is not such a device.

Anyways, I guess the only solution is just to buy longer HDMI cables and will keep each of them next to the output of the XboX. If I have to switch I will go to it and just plug off and plug on the one needed.

About the plugging off/ on.
My question was more about safety of the equipment. Sp if I put all devices on stand by, is it safe to plug off and on HDMI cables or they should be completely switched off
 
Ultimately the best solution might be to save for a new AVR that can deal with both HD audio and UHD video. It would solve all your issues.
 
'Am very surprised to learn that there is not such a device.' - it all stems from the reason we have HDMI, that being Content Protection. Having 'certified' devices with 'switched' Outputs was never on the cards as that allowed too many back doors open for messing about with the HDCP content protection scheme.

Hot Plugging cables - ideally you would ensure all devices are powered Off at the wall, some folk will tell you not to worry about it but it is possible to fry HDMI chips.

Joe
 
@Joe Fernand , I need your advice again. Apparently the seller has sold me an AV receiver whose HDMI out seems to be burnt/not firmwared, thus not workin as I don't receive any video. I gave 150$ so I don't want to throw it away. Would the device which (I had mentioned earlier) output the 1080p picture at least and give away let's say Dolby true HD/ DTS Master HD.

Here is the device:



My plan of usage:

XBOX ---> HDMI device ---> Tv/projector with 1080p quality
.................. l ...................
Surround receiver (supporting Dolby True HD/ DTS Master HD)
 
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Long story short, I am looking a device like HD Fury which is ok to pass up to 1080p signal and is considerably less expensive
 
The 1x4 Unit you link too will work for 1080p/HDCP 1.4 video though note it will not work with a 4K UHD/HDCP 2.2 signal.

In terms of audio it is going to pass the EDID from all connected Sink (Output) devices to the Source and where you have devices which don’t support Surround a Sound or HD Audio the Source will usually revert to Stereo audio.

Joe

PS Can you not return the faulty AVR?
 
Thanks for the quick response! Would that mean that even displaying devices connected to the HDMI splitter (like my projector) will destroy the surround sound and all the system will give out stereo signal. My TV at least has a choice between stereo and surround audio output.


p.s. Unfortunately, I took it second hand and I trusted the seller, but was obviously scammed...
 
HDMI utilises EDID to allow each Sink (Output) device to announce to the Source what the Sink is capable of supporting.

When you have multiple Sink devices connected via a Distribution Amp (Splitter) the Source polls all of the Sinks and outputs a video and audio signal all devices support so the least capable device ends up dictating what your Source will Output.

Some ’Splitter’ devices (such as the HDFury devices) inject your choice of EDID to allow you to force the Source to Output the video and audio signal you want, which allows you to push the best video to your most capable video device and best audio to your most capable audio device.

It may be worth checking the T&C’s of any ‘market place’ where you purchased the AVR to see if you have any way to cancel the sale.

Joe
 
Thanks a lot Joe Fernand. I really appreciate your responses and help for this issue of mine. Now the only thing left is to repair the amp. Me and my father will change the capacitors on the HDMI board. There are many threads about such problems of Onkyo receivers and they advise changing the caps. Let's hope it is going to work out.
 
Dear @Joe Fernand, I call for your help again. I think of getting eventually an amp which supports 4k, HDR and Dolby Atmos. I had asked about a HDMI splitter above, but now configuration is another and I will use the splitter more for prolonging the cables.

Xbox one X (4k, atmos) ----> AV receiver (4k, atmos) HDMI ARC -----> normal HDMI Splitter (not fury) (4k, atmos) ----> Projector (4k, no atmos, but stereo let's say)


1.Will the splitter revert back the stereo sound to all the system and thus no Atmos achieved?
2.If yes, then in caseI remove the splitter in this configuration and connect the HDMI ARC of receiver directly to the projector, will Atmos be hearable?
3. Is there any gadget which could allow me to make the 4k-HDR connection between receiver and the projector longer than 5 meter without loss of quality?

You will help me decide literally whether to take the new amp^^
 
Not easy following your configuration - you seem to have lost the TV :)

ARC - is usually a feature on a TV, only a few Projectors support ARC as you tend to not connect Source devices to the Projector. Projectors which do support ARC tend to only have a couple of HDMI Input sockets.

ARC - if you did have a TV and a Projector which supported ARC you could only enable that feature on one device or the system would get confused.

Conventional Splitters do not revert to any video or audio formats - instead they pass EDID from the Sink (TV or Projector) and the Source sets itself up to Output a signal the Sink device(s) support.

Signal Extender - some Splitters will optimise the Output signal you allow it to run over a long HDMI cable.

AVR - you could look for one with Dual HDMI Out!

System - can you sketch out your connectivity plan, makes it simpler to follow what you are planning.

Joe
 
Hi @Joe Fernand , sorry for the delay in my response. I waited to buy an AV receiver with 4k video processing and Dolby Atmos before drawing the scheme ^^. Now I got one (Onkyo NR 646). I plan to connect it to a 4k projector in the future but the projector will be around 5-6 meters away. I try to find an appropriate HDMI 4k HDR booster which could compensate the long distance between the projector and the AV receiver. For example I see that in amazon they sell boosters like this:



However they only show the booster/repeater working in Source > Booster > Display connection (not source > receiver > booster > display connection). Will this device work? If not, is there anything else which could replace it in giving 4k HDR signal with a 5m long cable? Will the booster pass EDID from the Sink (TV or Projector) and destroy the surround sound?
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For current generation 4K UHD signals you should not require any form of ‘Extender’ at 5m if you go with a High Speed or Premium High Speed certified copper cable.

Alternatively you could go with a Hybrid Fibre HDMI cable such as RuiPro4K - those will work with all current signals formats out to far longer cable lengths.

Ignore any mention of Version numbers with HDMI cables as it is not relevant.

If you found in the future you did require an Extender is it better to plan to place it close to the Sink (Display) rather than close to the Source (in your diagram the AVR).

Joe
 
Thanks once again for your help! The extender will be also beneficial because I don't have to take any cables out from behind the amp. Since I will install the cables, I will need 2-3 HDMI cables which I will switch going out from the extender depending on where I would like to project.

In this case the extender won't destroy the surround sound of the whole chain (like the standard HDMI splitter does), right?


For putting it closer to AVR or the display-sink, I don't know, I guess it is the same, no?.
 
I am.lookkng for a HDMI splitter than can accept 4K HDR Video + ;lossless audio as input and output 4K HDR video to TV and lossless audio to my soundbar.

Ant help would be appreciated
 
@Igans316, what I have learned from the discussions above is that expensive splitters such as HD Fury can do what you want to do. That's your boy:


The standard splitters which are 5-50$ will take the weakest signal and force it all over the chain. For example if your TV supports stereo, the standard splitter will force the stereo all over the chain despite the lossless support from your receiver.
 
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I am.lookkng for a HDMI splitter than can accept 4K HDR Video + ;lossless audio as input and output 4K HDR video to TV and lossless audio to my soundbar.

Ant help would be appreciated

Igans316, what I have learned from the discussions above is that expensive splitters such as HD Fury can do what you want to do. That's your boy:

The standard splitters which are 5-50$ will take the weakest signal and force it all over the chain. For example if your TV supports stereo, the standard splitter will force the stereo all over the chain despite the lossless support from your receiver.
 
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Igans316, what I have learned from the discussions above is that expensive splitters such as HD Fury can do what you want to do. That's your boy:

The standard splitters which are 5-50$ will take the weakest signal and force it all over the chain. For example if your TV supports stereo, the standard splitter will force the stereo all over the chain despite the lossless support from your receiver.

Thanks mate. Wondering if this will passthrough 4K60/HDR10/DV/HDR10+?
 
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The HDFury AVR key will PassThru all of the signal formats you mention plus output full HD audio with a ‘blank’ 720p or 1080p video signal to your legacy AVR or Soundbar.

Popular product on our webshop -https://tmfsolutions.co.uk/product/hdfury-avr-key/

Joe
 

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