Greenglue as glue glue?

Saralikesjazz

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I'm nearly ready to go with my Green Glue, plasterboard and plywood layers for the masonry party-wall in my study. Couple of questions - is it ok to use the Greenglue as glue to glue the plasterboard (which is Gyproc soundbloc 12.5mm) directly onto the wall, and then to glue the plywood (6mm) directly onto the plasterboard. If it's really not ok, why is it not? And can I use another type of glue as well as the Green glue? I really don't want to use screws if I can possibly avoid it. And what is a good cleaner for the glue if it goes where it shouldn't? Many thanks for your help
 
I do not know if you can glue plasterboad to a wall but green glue, contrary to its name is not a glue. It needs to be constrained by some other method eg screws
 
Plasterboard duly screwed directly to masonry party wall with layer of green glue behind - 6mm plywood panels next, but I am going to risk green glue as glue glue this time (seemed pretty glue-like to me when it oozed out of the back-end of the cylinder - why do they only tell you there's a seal on the tube in tiny print on the neck of the tube?) as panels are too pretty to put screws through. Builder friend tells me that he often attaches plasterboard directly onto masonry - so we'll see what the sound insulating benefits are when all is in place.
Thanks for bothering to reply - get the impression the greenglue is still quite an unknown quantity?
 
Green Glue is not a structural glue..... It is purely designed to go between two flat surfaces and spread out, its consistancy is like ketchup (the thin type!). I would not use it between rough masonary and plasterboard, fix the first layer to the existing brickwork via spaced battens securly fixed to the brickwork and then use the green glue between the layers screwing each through to the battens (staggering joints and preferebly fitting each layer alternatively horizontal adn then vertical). Green glue acts as a dampening fluid allowing the two surfaces to move relative to each other, it doesn't really set otherwise it wouldn't be quite so good and trust me having been to a few installs where it has been used it really does work at dampening out and adding mass to the room.
 
I think you need to 'dot and dab' the plasterboard to the masonry wall with dry wall adhesive. I dont know how this would affect the sound proofing you are trying to achieve.
I believe the best way is to sound reducing wall is to create a stud partition that is not attached to the masonry wall and then fill gaps between vertical joists with dense mineral wool insulation. Then add a layer of plaster board, then your green glue, then another layer of plaster board at right angles to the first.

Have a search on the forum for party walls or sound proofing there are lots of posts.

Good luck.
 
Just to be clear, naturally, an isolated structure within the existing structure is always best, but the overriding thing is to understand that the plasterboard with the green glue on the back must be fixed through the first layer into timber or metal stud, green glue is not a "glue" so the plasterboard must be secured mechanically. Two layers of plasterboard or even three is the norm over the existing construction or studwork.
 
Hi Graham

Just to be clear, as I'm about to mass damp a stud wall by adding a second layer of 15mm gyproc soundbloc with green glue inbetween the layers

1. What is the optimum plasterboard coverage over the existing 12mm? (ie number of type and thickness of board)
2. Is it imperative to screw into the studs? Would this not couple the layers more thus defeating the object
3. What is the best type & length etc. of screws

Thanks
 
Hiya.

Without knowing the specifics of the existing wall construction, generally it is best to add 2 layers of 15mm plasterboard with green glue in-between, this performs way better than a layer of soundbloc, in fact soundbloc way be an unecessary expense as standared 15mm plasterboard with green glue outperforms it.... Your choice, using soundbloc does no harm!

Always screw through to the studs (timber?), first layer is normally laid horizontially and fixed at max 450 centers using three tubes of green glue per full sheet, second layer is laid vertically and fixed at max 300mm centers to the studs, again using 3 tubes of green glue per full sheet. Screw lengths should be at least the thickness of the combined plasterboard plus 25mm, drywall screws (bugle head) should be used to ensure they sit flush (slightly below the surface of each sheet) without tearing the paper. Naturally all the usual safeguards should apply (where are the mains cables etc.!!!) and professional advice sought where necessary. There is a fair bit more to building a green glue wall than these basics which make the difference to performance but full design specs/measurments etc. based on individual projects are naturally chargable things in my world ;)

The green glue construction is not limited by fixing it to the studs, in fact the opposite is true.......... Sound transfer through walls is a separate subject that cannot be usefully discussed without seeing the project, many mnay things to consider there!
 

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