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Good Quality Sub. Amp Plate..

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Building DIY' started by GJC, Mar 12, 2004.

  1. GJC

    GJC
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    I have looked at the sticky and cant find a good quality powerful sub. amp plate. I am considering a HC sub based on the RE XXX12. and wanted an amp that could do it justice - where if at all can you source these?

    Also, does anyone know where you can buy the glue that the chap uses on Discover H/L - the programs called Cutting Edge Woodworker. The glue sort of foams and is supposed to be the nuts.

    Any Suggestions for a 12" that can out perform this in a 1 c/ft sealed enclosure would be great.

    ------
    Other info:

    The driver is £380 and is the 2004 model.

    The type of sound I am after Very Low Bass

    :devil:

    ------

    Regards,

    GJC.
     
  2. ShinObiWAN

    ShinObiWAN
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    If you want low bass out of a XXX your going to need some PEQ. They are SPL monsters and after PEQ very respectable frequency responses can be obtained at the expense of ultimate SPL level but who cares since the SPL at 15-20hz will still be in the region of 105dB-110dB.

    However without EQ your looking at an F3 of 40hz which won't be fitting your deep bass design philisophy.

    There is a link to a sub-bass panel manufacturer in the suppliers section but I guess you missed it.

    Take a look at www.bkelec.com and http://www.design3dw3.co.uk/audio/audio-hypex.htm

    A word of warning here, the XXX needs massive amounts of power to sound at its best and is a DVC (dual-voice-coil) design, so you need to factor that into your design and amp choice, you also need to remember that each coil is a 2ohm load - tough load for most amps. I would suggest 1000w as a bare minimum for these drivers.

    Another word of warning would be that 1cuft is on the small side for this driver, you really want to be looking at a 70-80ltr enclosure for more low-end response and a lower Q value to avoid boom.

    Whatever you do just make sure you keep us updated with pictures of the progress :)
     
  3. GJC

    GJC
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    Thanks for the quick response ShinObiWAN.

    The BK site has a 600 W Class D Amplifier Module that looks like it could do the job. Shame it doesnt have built in EQ...

    I will not be starting this project for a few months as I wont to get some ideas on Cabinet styles for this driver, shapes styles, materials etc. I have even seen a manufacturer that designs custom perspex enclosures - how much though!!!


    :smashin:
     
  4. ShinObiWAN

    ShinObiWAN
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    Hi again GJC,

    2 x 600w class D amps would be a good choice for driving a XXX. One would stuggle and I expect, as most under-driven subs do, that it would yield a less flat frequency response since there is unsufficient power to control the cone. So make sure you're looking at 1000w minimum, a single XXX handles 1600w RMS nominal and 2500w RMS peak.

    I can offer my advice on the various types of material that I've used during my time spent building boxes:

    Plywood: Good for small enclosures when using at least 10mm thick ply not really suited to larger enclosures unless double or triple walled. A good point of the very thin plywood is that it can be used as a veneer after sanding smooth then stained and varnished. Done this on a few boxes in the past and was always pleased the results for very little cost and its extremely easy to do.

    Chipboard: Don't like this myself, only used it once and was never pleased with the results. Its not very nice to work with either since its a brittle wood. It is however very cheap and available finished in melomime (the stick on plastic veneer) so that will save you time on finishing.

    MDF: This is the daddy for cheap and very solid cabinets. Its particularly suited to subwoofer cabinets because of the thicknesses available and the solid structure of the MDF. Most people double wall on larger cabinets but either way it has good non resonant properties and is very easy to work with - sanding, cutting, routering are all very easy with MDF. Always wear a good mask when working with it since its deadly stuff for the lungs - in case you didn't know it contains formaldahyde and is banned in the US!

    Solid woods (Pine, Oak etc.): Very nice if you can afford it, hence I have only limited experience with this building small enclosures. It is of course the best material to use if cost is no object but larger pieces cost and if you need a particularly large piece joints are required.

    Plastics: No experience whatsoever with these but would be interesting you have the tools to work them.

    If your interested in designing a box then try the following:

    http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

    http://home20.inet.tele.dk/kou/ubmodel.html

    There are many great programs to help you model a particular driver in your choosen box volume. These are two of the more popular ones available. They give you a 'rough' guide to how each will perform in a particular situation, don't forget that room gain is not factored into these models and you have to work that out yourself depending on your room dimensions. Usually its around 3-6dB as a very rough guide.

    Let us all know once you've started out :smashin:
     
  5. GaryG

    GaryG
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    GJC

    you have a PM.
     
  6. Exeter Man

    Exeter Man
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    I believe you are talking about polyurethane glue, such as this:

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=FGPOL5M

    Regards
     
  7. GJC

    GJC
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    Exeter Man:

    Cheers :smashin:
     

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