Question Glue recommendations for speaker spikes

[jonnybee123]

Hi,
My speaker spikes (it looks like alluminium) have come away from the glass (yes, glass!) base of the speaker stand (Focals dedicated stand for the Arias 906's).
I guess I'll need some epoxy resin kit with hardener to repair it, although I'm not sure which to buy. Has anyone got any glue brand recommendations they can offer? I'm looking for something really strong and long lasting. Thanks.

 

[dogfonos]

There are quite a few options open to you. Epoxy resins, cyanoacrylate glues (superglues) and more recently, styrene-based polymer sealant/glues. The only adhesive I've used with glass (to glass) was the latter:

Toolstation

www.toolstation.com

Once set, those two surfaces won't come apart though the polymer doesn't set rock solid, like an epoxy resin does. There is a little compliance which will be minimal if a thin layer is used (and maybe not a bad thing in this application?).

 

[BlueWizard]

I would like to see the Speaker Stands, especially the Bottom of the Stand. Are there no threads for threaded Speaker Spikes?

Is the Stand or the Stand Base Steel or Wood?

What I'm getting at is I would not use Stick-on or Glue-on Speaker Spikes. Let's work out whether we can use or adapt for use more common threaded Speaker Spikes.

The Speaker Spikes shown below are for mounting in Wood, though can be adapted for Steel with some changes -

Amazon product

Amazon product

The Silver part that has fins sticking up are known as T-Nuts, drill a hole, the pound the Fins down into the wood to hold the nut in place.

Amazon-UK -Search - T Nuts

Here is a type of T-Nut that is more likely intended for a Metal insert -

Amazon product

Amazon product

Amazon product

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pannow-T-Track-Sliding-Woodworking-Fastener/dp/B07P1WZVYW/

So ... in my opinion... the solution to your problem is not Glue, but rather a different type of Speaker Spike.

Steve/bluewizard

 

[noiseboy72]

I would suggest a thick high strength Cyno. I use this stuff and it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket...

Roket Max

Roket cyano range Highest quality cyanoacrylate adhesives. All sold as 20g bottles. Roket Max: Thick, maximum gap-filling adhesive; sets 10-20 sec. Designed for use with precise Micro Tip anti-clog applicator (AC9). Roket Techniques (pdf downloads) click on image Stuck Like Glue Using Roket...

deluxematerials.co.uk

 

[Derek S-H]

I would suggest a thick high strength Cyno. I use this stuff and it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket...

Roket Max

Roket cyano range Highest quality cyanoacrylate adhesives. All sold as 20g bottles. Roket Max: Thick, maximum gap-filling adhesive; sets 10-20 sec. Designed for use with precise Micro Tip anti-clog applicator (AC9). Roket Techniques (pdf downloads) click on image Stuck Like Glue Using Roket...

deluxematerials.co.uk

Can this be used on laminate flooring?

I have a laminate floor threshold in the doorway of my bathroom and some of it has come away. I'd like to just stick it back down rather than replace it completely.

Thanks!

 

[noiseboy72]

Worth a try. I've yet to find anything it won't stick. It's a longer curing time than some and this adds to the strength.

 

[jonnybee123]

I would like to see the Speaker Stands, especially the Bottom of the Stand. Are there no threads for threaded Speaker Spikes?

Is the Stand or the Stand Base Steel or Wood?

What I'm getting at is I would not use Stick-on or Glue-on Speaker Spikes. Let's work out whether we can use or adapt for use more common threaded Speaker Spikes.

The Speaker Spikes shown below are for mounting in Wood, though can be adapted for Steel with some changes -

Amazon product

Amazon product

The Silver part that has fins sticking up are known as T-Nuts, drill a hole, the pound the Fins down into the wood to hold the nut in place.

Amazon-UK -Search - T Nuts

Here is a type of T-Nut that is more likely intended for a Metal insert -

Amazon product

Amazon product

Amazon product

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pannow-T-Track-Sliding-Woodworking-Fastener/dp/B07P1WZVYW/

So ... in my opinion... the solution to your problem is not Glue, but rather a different type of Speaker Spike.

Steve/bluewizard

Hi Steve
The base of the stand is made of 10-12mm hardened glass. The underside spray painted black and is very flat with no existing drill holes . See pics attached. The marks you can see at each corner is the remainder of the old glue plus some glue I had left over from a previous project. So yes, it needs a good clean first.

 

[jonnybee123]

I would suggest a thick high strength Cyno. I use this stuff and it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket...

Roket Max

Roket cyano range Highest quality cyanoacrylate adhesives. All sold as 20g bottles. Roket Max: Thick, maximum gap-filling adhesive; sets 10-20 sec. Designed for use with precise Micro Tip anti-clog applicator (AC9). Roket Techniques (pdf downloads) click on image Stuck Like Glue Using Roket...

deluxematerials.co.uk

Thanks, I'll look into this.

 

[BlueWizard]

Hi Steve
The base of the stand is made of 10mm hardened glass. The underside spray painted black and is very flat with no existing drill holes . See pics attached. The marks you can see at each corner is the remainder of the old glue plus some glue I had left over from a previous project. So yes, it needs a good clean first.

View attachment 1359017View attachment 1359019

Glass can be drilled but it is kind of tricky, so perhaps my suggestion is not so good.

So this is 10mm (0.4 inch) of Clear Glass coated on the bottom with something resembling paint?

The original Spikes appear to have some type of Foam self-adhesive pad on them, but they also look like they have been re-glued before. I would get rid of the foam pads. Scrape them off.

Before gluing, regardless of the type of glue, I would get some very fine sandpaper, or steel wool, or one of those green kitchen scrubby pads, and buff the area where you are going to stick the Spikes. Also, scuff up the bonding surface of the Spikes. The fine crevasses created by the scuffing will give the glue more surface area to bond to..

I would also make sure that both surfaces to be glued are Solvent Clean, though wiping them down nicely with Iso-Acohol is probably good enough.

As to the best type of glue, that's hard. You want something that sticks strong and fills gaps.

Just a few thoughts.

Steve/bluewizard

 

[jonnybee123]

Glass can be drilled but it is kind of tricky, so perhaps my suggestion is not so good.

So this is 10mm (0.4 inch) of Clear Glass coated on the bottom with something resembling paint?

The original Spikes appear to have some type of Foam self-adhesive pad on them, but they also look like they have been re-glued before. I would get rid of the foam pads. Scrape them off.

Before gluing, regardless of the type of glue, I would get some very fine sandpaper, or steel wool, or one of those green kitchen scrubby pads, and buff the area where you are going to stick the Spikes. Also, scuff up the bonding surface of the Spikes. The fine crevasses created by the scuffing will give the glue more surface area to bond to..

I would also make sure that both surfaces to be glued are Solvent Clean, though wiping them down nicely with Iso-Acohol is probably good enough.

As to the best type of glue, that's hard. You want something that sticks strong and fills gaps.

Just a few thoughts.

Steve/bluewizard

Thanks for that. Didn't think of using sandpaper and iso alcohol, I'll do that first before using the glue. I went on Amazon to look for Epoxy resin glue and there are so many different brands ot there. I'll consider the other 2 brand suggestions posted here. I might drop an email to Focal and ask for their advice.