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Getting power to a Projector?

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by dapex, Mar 20, 2004.

  1. dapex

    dapex
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    Hi all, I am planning out how I can install a projector and I need some advice. Due to the fact that we live in a fairly new house I cannot start ripping the ceiling etc to pieces. I have a long front room with 2 ceiling lights controlled by too different switches. Could i remove one light fitting and use the power feed to power a Panny 500??? The book reckons the panny uses 180W which by my acocunt is only the same as 3 60w bulbs.

    This would be an ideal solution, as it means I already have a mains switch and wiring in place. I know that every time i want to use the PJ i will have to throw a temp video cable up to give it signal, but this is the wife friendly solution...


    There is no way I am going to be allowed to touch her artex ceiling. Also, as it is a new house I cannot lift the odd floorboard upstairs to install wiring, its all bloody span flooring.....


    Cheers

    Dave
     
  2. RTFM

    RTFM
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    Should be OK running your PJ on a 6A lighting circuit.

    You would need to change the light switch so the projector doesn't get turned off when running as repeated shut downs without the cooling fan will not do the PJ or lamp much good.
     
  3. Kramer

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    Agree, seriously bad idea having a light switch controlling the power to your PJ. Inevitably someone's going to kill the supply when turning on/off the lights :eek:.

    Not good for your PJ.

    :smoke:
     
  4. dapex

    dapex
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    Cheers for the replies, I suppose I could just bypass the switch (the main point is that I can use the wiring) unless any of you have any idea's as to a switch that would be suitable.

    I will add the at present the switch is a normal double lighting switch (a switch per end of living room)


    Cheers

    Dave
     
  5. RTFM

    RTFM
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    If you are not comfortable with mains wiring I would get a qualified electrician in to disable the two way lighting circuit, replace the switches with blanking plates and give you a fused switched outlet on the ceiling and hardwire the projector mains cable into this.
    That way you can isolate the projector from the mains if you are away, otherwise you can leave it in standby.
     
  6. Jonny1973

    Jonny1973
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    My power lead goes through the lounge ceiling and comes out in the study upstairs.

    I have it pluged in to a regular wall socket with a surge protector.
     
  7. Jonny1973

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    My power lead goes through the lounge ceiling and comes out in the study upstairs.

    I have it pluged in to a regular wall socket with a surge protector.
     
  8. AndyGo

    AndyGo
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    Have to agree with Kramer there, you're bound to forget & switch off the PJ thinking it's a light switch. Not good for PJ to stop without cooling cycle.
    As to isolating the wiring, depends how it's been done, you say the switches are standard 2 controlling switches at room ends. I presume by this you mean that both the lights are controlled by each switch. This would not be as straightforward as a way of using one switches wiring to feed a PJ as in effect, the lighting circuitry will pass through both switches, probably switching positive through the single pole/single throw pair of switches. You'd need to gain access to the wiring under the floorboards & have a play with a meter to find out how it's been wired, after that it's a case of a few pence on a junction box & you could isolate one of the switches out of the lighting loop freeing it up to activate a projector. All relatively simple in theory, but as per above, I wouldn't recommend it as eventually someone will hit that switch & shut off the PJ - unless you have some sort of locking or caged switch - not too pleasing on a lounge wall !.
    Probably the simplest alternative is to drill a hole through the panel board upstairs & straight down through the ceiling. (tip here is to use a normal bit to go through the chipboard, then use a long (15"+) masonry bit of a smaller diameter (the sort most people have lurking about for drilling through external cavity walls) to go through the plasterboard.) This then gives you a way of routing the power cable up into the room above. Once it's up there, you can run it under a carpet to a nearby socket & hook up via an RF filtered surge protector - Easy !!!
    Probably the beat way (at least in my opinion cos' thats how I've done it !) is to bite the bullet about getting acces from the panel boards above & put yourself in some access hatches. I used my router to chop out square holes over my screen & PJ mounts & rebate lips to accept corresponding hatch covers (ensuring they span 2 joists for adequate support). These hatch covers were made & rebated with a router to fit each hole. That way you have relatively painless access from above to fit support brackets, wiring, video cables, etc.
    However, if you are in any doubt over any form of electrical work - CALL IN THE PROFESSIONALS !!! And also, if hacking through floorboards be super careful about water pipe layout & buy a pipe detector & treble check before cutting anything !
    Even the experienced get lax & make mistakes & trust me, no drama ever comitted to the big screen can ever match the true horror of the involuntary indoor fountain !!!

    Sorry if I've rambled on a bit, there's loads of stuff on here from other guys about how they've done installs, have a nose through their threads & you'll soon get some ideas.

    Cheers,
    Andy
     

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