Fitting LMP ceiling mount


Novice Member
I've just received an LMP mount for my Z2, and it looks a great bit of kit.

The only thing I'm not too sure about is actually putting it on the ceiling! Fortunately I have a roof joist running right where the mount will go, so the 'front' and 'back' of the mount can be screwed straight into the joist.

A bit of advice on what screws to use wouldn't go amiss. I obviosuly want some fairly hefty screws to keep the whole thing up.

With regards to the left and right side of the mount, would I need to fit noggins between the joists and screw the projector into them? Or would it be fine just screwed into the joist?

Oh, whilst I'm here...

I'm going to need to extend the power lead for the projector once it's mounted as well. I've looked around and all I can find are 2m powere leads with a C5 connector on the end (which looks to be the type that the Z2 uses).

Does anyone know where I can get either a) a much longer power lead, or b) just a C5 connector so I make up my own lead?

The only other alternative will be to lop off the plug from the existing power lead and bodge it together with another length of cable.


Standard Member
Is the C5 the "Cloverleaf" shaped one that the Panny AE100 etc uses? I never managed to find a plug like that, and ended up bodging two cables together - fortunately my PJ came with a Euro and UK cable, so I sliced up the Euro one.



I have an LMP mount for my HS10 and was lucky enough to find a joist in the way for 1 of the 4 mounting points. I contacted the rawlplug technical advisory service as I was considering using their cavity fixings into the other 3 holes which were/are just in plain plasterboard ceiling. Brian was very helpful and told me the weight one of these would bear if suspending something from the ceiling - it's different weightbearing if you screw it into a wall, apparently.
You can get them from B&Q, screwfix, diytools, etc

I ended up using the spring toggles as they have a bigger "footprint" and I could get easy access to the "inside" of the ceiling - the attic is above the ceiling so I can get to both sides of the plasterboard - but I recall Brian saying that the "interset" fixings actually bear more load.

Anyway, give 'em a call. I can't remember which one I used now or what weight he told me but I do remember that the weight 1 would bear was essentially the weight of my projector and since I was using 3 of them (and a joist) I didn't worry. Mount is up and in use and has been for several months now and is still solid as a rock.

Good luck!



I mounted my Z2 with 2"x 10 screws into the joist and used plasterboard rawlplugs for the other two fixing points.


Active Member
Typically of my house the joists didn't run the right way so I had to add noggins. Then I screwed the mount up with 2.5" size 12 screws into the wood. The power has just been sorted by extending the ring main to a socket on the ceiling, I was getting tired of the lead dangling across the room.

I believe it's secure, or I hope so as I sit right underneath it.


Novice Member
Got it all sorted out over the past couple of days. I had to move the projector forward so I could screw it into the joists.

It's made a bit of difference to the screen size, but not too much. So the front and back are screwed into the joists, and the left and right are held in with spring toggles through the ceiling (and an 18mm bit of MDF to spread the load).

I don't think it's going anywhere in a hurry :)


Standard Member
The mount is actually designed to be mounted with only two screws. The other two legs stabalise it. The reason for the four holes is that your joists my run either way.

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