Fi IB318 price

Discussion in 'DIY Speaker & Subwoofer Building' started by Nimby, Dec 24, 2011.

  1. Nimby

    Nimby
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    Hi

    I couldn't seem to get any pricing for the IB318s on their website.

    Does anybody remember how much they are asking including UK delivery?

    Thanks
     
  2. Member 639844

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    IIRC about £230-£250, but I'll see if I can find an e-mail with the info on. I do happen to know however that prices may increase in the new year, though I dont know how much by. I'll see what I can find out.

    What you thinking of?

    EDIT:

    Normal price is £239 delivered for an IB318. BTW, I am sure your already well aware of this, but the Fi's need considerably more power than the AE's, and in most cases can handle all of the 500 watt rated input per driver.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 24, 2011
  3. Nimby

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    Thanks, Moonfly.

    I thought I remembered a ballpark figure but wondered whether I could go on recommending the 318s to European IB builders. There seems very little competition State-side and not much to choose from over here. 7 litres displacement per driver for ~£250 squid is a hard act to follow. Have you heard of anything useful in our neck of the woods? :)
     
  4. Member 639844

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    AE ceased production and Fi were the only real IB driver maker left, and the only ones with a euro dealer. If you want to order direct form the US though, there is a very interesting driver from Dayton, and its a cracking price as well.

    Dayton IB385-8 15" Infinite Baffle Subwoofer 295-455

    Ive never used it or seen any reviews, but its got to be worth a look. It models well too. If you need to driver file for WinISD, shoot me an e-mail and I'll send it to you. On a side note, it wont quite have the output of the Fi's, and I couldnt comment on SQ, but the power requirements of the system are tiny, 4 drivers are best run with only 100 watts.
     
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  5. Nimby

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    Hi Moonfly

    The PE drivers are considered a little dated in design and a slightly lacking in Xmax but they are still nice drivers. It doesn't mention cone material but it looks smooth and straight-sided like my earlier poly-cone AEIB15s.

    Four would probably make a very decent IB in smaller, UK-sized rooms. I think I'd want a bit more power than 100W even if I didn't use all of it. ;) The EP2500/4000 would do nicely.

    Thanks for the info

    Merry Christmas :)
     
  6. Member 639844

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    Those drivers have 14mm of xmax, so not loads but not an insignificant amount either, the AE drivers only had about 18mm, so its not a huge difference. They have an Fs of 20hz, so not quite a low as the AE's but still very respectable. 4 of them with 100 watts will keep them just in xmax at 10 hz and give you 100db, so if your after a budget solution, both in terms of driver cost and amplifier cost, they are a serious contender. The AE's, by comparison, if using 4 can handle twice the power and give a clear 6db more output, but your still only looking at needing 200 watts for 4x15 AE's.

    Input power needs to be looked at in context, some drivers dont need much at all. Both the Dayton and AE approach is to have a system that is very efficient and needs little power, but you will need a lot of room with which to work, not that this is usually an issue for most IB's.

    4 x Fi15 on the other hand is a totally different approach. One big advantage they have is the ability to work in much much smaller enclosures, ideal for people with tight enclosure restrictions. This means the Fi's will be less efficient, but its not an issue as 4 drivers will happily take 2000 watts. The nice thing with that is you get 9db more max spl at 10hz than with the dayton, and a touch more than the old EA's used to give too. On the down side, the natural response curve isnt as flat, so you will need a touch more eq, but with all the power handling and the fact they are such tough drivers, its not really an issue.

    FYI, 4 x 18 will also take the full 2KW and give a further 3db more headroom, but they need more space to breathe as well. One nice thing about the Fi's is that the normal concerns of drivers hitting xmax with IBs arent as bad as with the older designs. FWIW, I have heard an Fi based IB system and it was one of the best subs Ive ever heard, and I wouldnt hesitate for a second to recommend them.
     
  7. Nimby

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    I'm delighted to hear it. :)

    Thanks Moonfly.
     
  8. moses

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    Hi Chris,

    My delivered price for the ib3 18" was 480 quid for a pair.
    Still enjoying the 4 x 18" and their destructive abilities !!!!

    Have a good Xmas and new year
    Mo
     
  9. Nimby

    Nimby
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    Thanks very much for that info, Mo.

    Happy IB home wrecking! :devil:

    Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

    Chris
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2011
  10. Alex Lake

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    If it would help make a bigger order, I'm looking for one of these...
     
  11. Nimby

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    Sadly, I am not intending to place an order myself. I was doing some homework for another European IB builder looking for suitable drivers. I still think the Fi IB318s offer the best displacement per £/$/Euro.
     
  12. Member 639844

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    Anyone I might know?
     
  13. Nimby

    Nimby
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    Dunno. exipnos is posting on the IB Cult. The name sounds vaguely Greek to me. Only because so many places end in nos. His English is perfect. :)
     
  14. Member 639844

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    Ive not been on there in quite a while, I seem to have forgotten about it. I might have another peruse again.
     
  15. Nimby

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    It's still as quiet as ever over there. The price of specialisation and an encyclopaedic FAQ. On the upside we get the loudest, clearest and deepest bass on the planet. For less than the price of a modest, commercial box sub. :smashin:
     
  16. jason shep

    jason shep
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    Hi Chris,how are you ? It was you're website detailing you're origional 4x15 array that got me started on the road to IB so thank you ! Have you tried Audyssey room correction on yours ? I have found it superb & recently upgraded to Xt32 which has taken my IB's performance to another level,the clarity is stunning & the snap from mayhem to silence is even more instant.
     
  17. Member 639844

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    Well it will be even longer before I have one now, all my AV kit got sold off when I moved countries :(
     
  18. jason shep

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    He who waits ! I'm sure when you get to build you're own bass system it will be worth the wait,a good few people on here owe you favours too I reckon,wouldn't hurt blade ice to cut you a great deal on some drivers after all you have helped to sell !!!
     
  19. Nimby

    Nimby
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    Hi Jason

    Glad you're still enjoying your sub. I haven't delved into advanced EQ.
    Still running a very basic stereo system with add-ons really. :suicide:
     
  20. Member 639844

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    If only eh, but I guess it couldnt hurt to ask :D
    You should try Audyssey. Next time you decide to upgrade your processor, try finding one with it on board. It will boost the low end and flatten the response nicely. It might even shine a new light on your system. If you could find an AS EQ-1, that would be a nice addition for sure.
     
  21. Nimby

    Nimby
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    I still have to eat, now and then. ;)

    Besides, my DSP1124 is fine for my needs. :smashin:
     
  22. Member 639844

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    Well, winking thumbs up smileys apart, Audyssey does stuff you cant with an FBQ. That why I never bothered hooking mine up.
     
  23. Nimby

    Nimby
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    I hope this isn't an admission that you can't program the 1124? :devil:
     
  24. Member 639844

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    I have a 2496 Ive owned for absolutely ages and I have just never needed to use it, Ive always ended up with a very flat response using only Audyssey, and that includes getting the low end boost in properly on sealed subs too. Plus, setting individual phase, time, and processing lag parameters is the hard. FWIW though, the ability to program the devices (which I admit I havent bothered taking the time to learn anyway) isnt really an issue, as one can use REW to do that for you anyway :thumbsup:
     
  25. W124coupe

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    How much low boost does XT32 add and how does it 'know' it can safely do so?

    For example with an XXLS400, an LT is already in use from the factory to extend the bottom end and still leave a standard per-octave rolloff.

    Boosting again would assume amp and excursion headroom both exist. Does XT try it and measure the results to see if massive distortion is the result? I can't see how unless it jacks levels up incrementally to reference and listens to check.....

    Also, it if does this by detecting standard sealed .707 rolloff then how can it help eq a DIY sub where the buider intentionally went for non-flat Q ( eg a box that is 'too small' for .707 response ) with the intention of using EQ to flatten it later?

    If it detects this and fixes it, how does it avoid trying to boost a ported sub below tune?

    I'm trying to understand here if XT32 can correctly eq 'WAF' small subs ( Q15 in 60L) or if I need to continue with my plan to use minidsp with a close eye on power and excursion once in the room?
     
  26. Member 639844

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    Audyssey initially pings the sub(s) and cheques phase and levels etc, but it also measures its in room response and roll off. It matches the roll off to one of a set of stored responses and finds the -3db point of the system. It then wont boost below the -3 point.

    How it boosts your sealed sub is dependant on the sub and its in room response. Audyssey will apply upto 9db of boost but dont forget what its trying to do, because its simply aiming for a flat response, no actual boosted responses. A sub that already has an LTC and is slowly rolling off wont need 9db of boost in all likely hood anyway. Boosting though is all relative, as if you want a flat response then the boost will need applying, but your sub will only output at its max ability at its lowest frequency and everything above that takes less power and less cone excursion anyway. Once Audyssey has flattened your sub, if you then find its output is insufficient as a result I would argue you simply need a better sub, either that or employ a HPF to reduce the subs extension and increase its output ability instead.

    For a sealed DIY sub, it will recognise the shallow roll off and eq the entire range. It will apply 9db of boost at 10hz and then less higher up. Any part of the response higher up the range that is then still peaking, will be cut to keep it all flat. This is essentially the same effect an LTC would have anyway, but with eq added as well. Again, if you find you push your sub too hard then you can add a HPF and reduce extension and increase spl output, and also again, if you dont want to lose the extension, then you need a better or more subs.
     

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